Sears Model 110.66822694. Installed new in 199

Put wet wash in, set "timed dry" for 45 mins, push start button.

Light inside drum operates fine with door open.

Drum turns as soon as start button is pushed.

Heat comes up immediately.
Run it empty for 30 seconds, open the door and hot air spills ut.

Drum will run 4 - 5 minutes, with heat, then shuts down.

Circuit breakers for dryer circuit not "tripped".

Wash, of course, will not dry.

Filter is clean.

Exhaust hose and vent were clean.

Replaced corrugatedhose anyway.

Same non operation.

I'm thinking its the high limit thermostat.

Probably ot the heatig coil because we are
getting heat for short durations.

Any helpful thoughts welcomed

Thank you.

"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message
. ..

Sears Model 110.66822694. Installed new in 199

Put wet wash in, set "timed dry" for 45 mins, push start button.

Light inside drum operates fine with door open.

Drum turns as soon as start button is pushed.

Heat comes up immediately.
Run it empty for 30 seconds, open the door and hot air spills ut.

Drum will run 4 - 5 minutes, with heat, then shuts down.

Circuit breakers for dryer circuit not "tripped".

Wash, of course, will not dry.

Filter is clean.

Exhaust hose and vent were clean.

Replaced corrugatedhose anyway.

Same non operation.

I'm thinking its the high limit thermostat.

Probably ot the heatig coil because we are
getting heat for short durations.

Any helpful thoughts welcomed

Thank you.

It would help if you could hang an ammeter on the circuit to see when the
element goes on and off. Off hand I would guess a faulty thermostat or
safety switch is shutting it down

RBM wrote:

SNIP


It would help if you could hang an ammeter on the circuit to see when the
element goes on and off. Off hand I would guess a faulty thermostat or
safety switch is shutting it down


Drum stops turning, heat goes off, all simultaneously, about 4 - 5
minuted after start buton is pushed.

On Feb 23, 7:23*pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
RBM wrote:

SNIP



It would help if you could hang an ammeter on the circuit to see when the
element goes on and off. Off hand I would guess a faulty thermostat or
safety switch is shutting it down

Drum stops turning, heat goes off, all simultaneously, about 4 - 5
minuted after start buton is pushed.

Somebody repost this for me since jJim PLONKED me a while back...

Check the door safety switch or door clasp. I had a dryer that kept
shutting off because the door would get knocked slightly open by the
wet clothes and shut everything down. Then the door would close again
so everything looked normal when we would check it.

Some driers should also have overheating protection on the heating element
as well. Kind of like on your hair dryer. To see how this works you can
try to overheat your hair dryer by bocking the air flow with a real thick
cloth. You will hear a click by a little rectangular gadget in the front.

You heating element on your dryer may have a defective one.


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Feb 23, 7:23 pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
RBM wrote:

SNIP



It would help if you could hang an ammeter on the circuit to see when
the
element goes on and off. Off hand I would guess a faulty thermostat or
safety switch is shutting it down

Drum stops turning, heat goes off, all simultaneously, about 4 - 5
minuted after start buton is pushed.

Somebody repost this for me since jJim PLONKED me a while back...

Check the door safety switch or door clasp. I had a dryer that kept
shutting off because the door would get knocked slightly open by the
wet clothes and shut everything down. Then the door would close again
so everything looked normal when we would check it.

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 16:38:40 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Feb 23, 7:23*pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
RBM wrote:

SNIP



It would help if you could hang an ammeter on the circuit to see when the
element goes on and off. Off hand I would guess a faulty thermostat or
safety switch is shutting it down

Drum stops turning, heat goes off, all simultaneously, about 4 - 5
minuted after start buton is pushed.

It would still be good if you could put a voltmeter across the heat
limit swithc or whatever you think the problem might be. The meter
will show about zero when the dryer is working, and will go up to 220
volts across the limit switch if it is the limit switch which has
opened the circuit.

In fact you wouldn't even have to measure things while the dryer is
working, becaue you can assume all the voltages are right. But you
have a couple minutes or more to look for the open device in the
circuit after it turns off and before you are able to start it again.
You have however long it takes until you can start the dryer again.

It's a bad habit to just replace parts based on logic. Logic is great
but testing is better. (And whenever testing doesn't confirm what the
logic came up with, we always seem to be able to think of a new idea,
even if we couldn't before. "People are funny.")

Somebody repost this for me since jJim PLONKED me a while back...

Check the door safety switch or door clasp. I had a dryer that kept
shutting off because the door would get knocked slightly open by the
wet clothes and shut everything down. Then the door would close again
so everything looked normal when we would check it.

I had a glove compartment like that once.

The light inside ran the battery down every night, but when I was
testing, I would open it and shut the door well, or badly, whichever
it hadn't been, and my testing was all confused.

"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message
. ..

Sears Model 110.66822694. Installed new in 199

Put wet wash in, set "timed dry" for 45 mins, push start button.

Light inside drum operates fine with door open.

Drum turns as soon as start button is pushed.

Heat comes up immediately.
Run it empty for 30 seconds, open the door and hot air spills ut.

Drum will run 4 - 5 minutes, with heat, then shuts down.

Circuit breakers for dryer circuit not "tripped".

Wash, of course, will not dry.

Filter is clean.

Exhaust hose and vent were clean.

Replaced corrugatedhose anyway.

Same non operation.

I'm thinking its the high limit thermostat.

Probably ot the heatig coil because we are
getting heat for short durations.

Any helpful thoughts welcomed

Thank you.

Will it restart if tried immediately? After some period of time?

A lot of dryer problems can be caused by accumulation of lint in the internal
passages of the dryer. Cleaning it may restore it to like-new operation. Take it
outside. Use an air compressor with an air nozzle or sandblaster nozzle
(better-but no sand) or a leaf blower to blow out every air passage you can
find. Blow in through all drum openings, the filter opening, the exhaust
opening, etc. Keep at it until no more lint comes out. Open the top and blow out
around the drum. Then try it again.

The chances are likely higher that lint is restricting airflow or drum movement
than that a limit switch has actually gone bad.

"jJim McLaughlin" wrote in message
. ..
Exhaust hose and vent were clean.


I had a problem with drying a few months ago. Like you, all was cleaned and
everything acted like it should dry.

Turns out that I needed to take the back of the dryer (the plate) off. Then
clean out the line that was in the dryer exiting the dryer. All external
was cleaned and normal, but inside there is a line to exhaust out and it was
clogged a bit.

Cleaned that line, put the back of the dryer back on, plugged the exhaust
duct back into the wall, and turned it on; all was well again.

Might be worth looking into.

Tim

On Sat, 23 Feb 2008 23:26:43 -0500, "Jordan" wrote:

Some driers should also have overheating protection on the heating element
as well. Kind of like on your hair dryer. To see how this works you can
try to overheat your hair dryer by bocking the air flow with a real thick
cloth. You will hear a click by a little rectangular gadget in the front.

Not a good idea unless one knows that it has that gadget. The hair
dryers I've looked at, only a few but all of them, have thermal fuses
that will not reset. They look like little silver diodes, like
rockets with a pointed nosecone and a wire coming out of each end.

They are hard to find for sale and I would think hard to solder in
(because the soldering heat might burn out the new fuse. I'm not sure,
but I note that from the factory that are always crimped in place and
I don't know where to get those crimps, either) so if he tries heating
up a hair dryer as you suggest, he may end up with a worthless hair
dryer.

You heating element on your dryer may have a defective one.


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
On Feb 23, 7:23 pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
RBM wrote:

SNIP



It would help if you could hang an ammeter on the circuit to see when
the
element goes on and off. Off hand I would guess a faulty thermostat or
safety switch is shutting it down

Drum stops turning, heat goes off, all simultaneously, about 4 - 5
minuted after start buton is pushed.

Somebody repost this for me since jJim PLONKED me a while back...

Check the door safety switch or door clasp. I had a dryer that kept
shutting off because the door would get knocked slightly open by the
wet clothes and shut everything down. Then the door would close again
so everything looked normal when we would check it.

jJim McLaughlin wrote:

Sears Model 110.66822694. Installed new in 199

Put wet wash in, set "timed dry" for 45 mins, push start button.

Light inside drum operates fine with door open.

Drum turns as soon as start button is pushed.

Heat comes up immediately.
Run it empty for 30 seconds, open the door and hot air spills ut.

Drum will run 4 - 5 minutes, with heat, then shuts down.

Two possibilities here. First is the motor is overheating and shutting
down. If this is the case, shutdown will occur whether the dryer is
heating or running with no heat. A lint buildup could be a contributing
factor.

Otherwise, a high limit switch near the heat source is being activated.
This can occur if there is inadequate air flow. The dryer is
designed for a certain amount of air to pass around the heat source.
This could be impeded by a clogged filter or exhaust, or a leak around
the drum, whereby air is entering through a path other than past the
heat coil. Check the door seal and the felt seal around the rear
perimeter of the drum. You might also have a defective coil that
generates too much heat around the limit switch. Lastly, the limit
switch itself could be defective.

On Feb 23, 6:05*pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
Sears Model 110.66822694. Installed new in 199

Put wet wash in, set "timed dry" for 45 mins, push start button.

Light inside drum operates fine with door open.

Drum turns as soon as start button is pushed.

Heat comes up immediately.
Run it empty for 30 seconds, open the door and hot air spills ut.

Drum will run 4 - 5 minutes, with heat, then shuts down.

Circuit breakers for dryer circuit not "tripped".

Wash, of course, will not dry.

Filter is clean.

Exhaust hose *and vent were clean.

Replaced corrugatedhose anyway.

Same non operation.

I'm thinking its the high limit thermostat.

Probably ot the heatig coil because we are
getting heat for short durations.

Any helpful thoughts welcomed

Thank you.



Have you tried disconnecting the transition duct (accordian hose) and
drying a load to see if there is a difference?
Attach a pantyhose to catch the lint.
If the dryer operated properly, there is a venting issue.

Alisa LeSueur
Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician
http://CleanYourOwnDryerVent.com

mm wrote:

Not a good idea unless one knows that it has that gadget. The hair
dryers I've looked at, only a few but all of them, have thermal fuses
that will not reset. They look like little silver diodes, like
rockets with a pointed nosecone and a wire coming out of each end.

They are hard to find for sale and I would think hard to solder in
(because the soldering heat might burn out the new fuse. I'm not sure,
but I note that from the factory that are always crimped in place and
I don't know where to get those crimps, either) so if he tries heating
up a hair dryer as you suggest, he may end up with a worthless hair
dryer.


Hello?

We are talking about an electric clothes dryer here. Not a hair dryer.

On Mon, 25 Feb 2008 08:49:22 -0800, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:

mm wrote:

Not a good idea unless one knows that it has that gadget. The hair
dryers I've looked at, only a few but all of them, have thermal fuses
that will not reset. They look like little silver diodes, like
rockets with a pointed nosecone and a wire coming out of each end.

They are hard to find for sale and I would think hard to solder in
(because the soldering heat might burn out the new fuse. I'm not sure,
but I note that from the factory that are always crimped in place and
I don't know where to get those crimps, either) so if he tries heating
up a hair dryer as you suggest, he may end up with a worthless hair
dryer.


Hello?

We are talking about an electric clothes dryer here. Not a hair dryer.

Ohhh, yeah. !!!! Thanks.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

It's probably not Y 0.2K compatible.

Heh, heh, heh.

Yeah, I saw that. Was supposed to be 1998.

Typo, Fingo. Whatever.