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#1
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I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So
anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? Thanks, Walter |
#2
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Walter Cohen wrote:
I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? Thanks, Walter Hi, Trying to suck out all the warm air? Like cold bahroom? |
#3
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![]() "Walter Cohen" wrote in message ... I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? Skip the cheap NuTone and get a 120 cfm Panasonic. Much quieter. I don't know how you did the calculations, but the amount of methane gas you produce should be considered above anything else. |
#4
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On Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:57:02 -0500, "Walter Cohen"
wrote: I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So whay don't you share what the "usual cfm calculations" with us? -- Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!! http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/ Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me 'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.' 'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.' HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/ |
#5
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On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 03:05:56 GMT, Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Walter Cohen" wrote in message ... I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? Skip the cheap NuTone and get a 120 cfm Panasonic. Much quieter. I don't know how you did the calculations, but the amount of methane gas you produce should be considered above anything else. somebody who needs 100+CFM should also get something with a spark arrester. |
#6
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On Tue, 05 Feb 2008 19:29:04 -0800, wrote:
On Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:57:02 -0500, "Walter Cohen" wrote: I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So whay don't you share what the "usual cfm calculations" with us? 350lb man 15lbs of beans per day 10lbs of cabbage per day you do the math. |
#7
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On Feb 5, 9:57*pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. *So anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. *I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. *If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? Thanks, Walter Broan makes a 70CFM. Keep in mind noise also becomes a factor the larger CFM you get, unless you ante up and buy the quiet models. What size is your bathroom? |
#8
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its probably more important to have a air intake to the room so air
can flow, perhaps a louver in the door or some such. otherwise the room is sucked to a vacuumn and the blower is ineffective. you can also install a fan thats at a remote location, like the point where the air exits the home. much quieter that way |
#9
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On Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:57:02 -0500, "Walter Cohen"
wrote: I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? Thanks, Walter Generally, the higher the CFM the more noise. If noise is not an issue, go with the higher CFM. A wall timer for the fan circuit is a good thing too. |
#10
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On Wed, 06 Feb 2008 03:05:56 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote: "Walter Cohen" wrote in message ... I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? Skip the cheap NuTone and get a 120 cfm Panasonic. Much quieter. I don't know how you did the calculations, but the amount of methane gas you produce should be considered above anything else. What about moisture? Unless you are living in an arid climate, fighting bathroom mold and mildew is no fun. Expect to pay 30% more for a "quiet" fan with the same CFM. |
#11
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![]() "AZ Nomad" wrote in message On Tue, 05 Feb 2008 19:29:04 -0800, wrote: On Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:57:02 -0500, "Walter Cohen" wrote: I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So whay don't you share what the "usual cfm calculations" with us? 350lb man 15lbs of beans per day 10lbs of cabbage per day you do the math. (350(x) * 15(y)) / 10(z) = 6 Fans |
#12
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On Wed, 6 Feb 2008 05:16:31 -0800 (PST), "
wrote: its probably more important to have a air intake to the room so air can flow, perhaps a louver in the door or some such. otherwise the room is sucked to a vacuumn and the blower is ineffective. you can also install a fan thats at a remote location, like the point where the air exits the home. much quieter that way Most bathroom doors have enough gap at the bottom. |
#13
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"Walter Cohen" wrote in message
... I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? Thanks, Walter There's ALMOST no such thing as too big a fan, especially if noise is not an issue. How many people take showers, and in what period of time? |
#14
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On Feb 6, 8:59�am, Phisherman wrote:
On Wed, 6 Feb 2008 05:16:31 -0800 (PST), " wrote: its probably more important to have a air intake to the room so air can flow, perhaps a louver in the door or some such. otherwise the room is sucked to a vacuumn and the blower is ineffective. you can also install a fan thats at a remote location, like the point where the air exits the home. much quieter that way Most bathroom doors have enough gap at the bottom. not in the homes i have visited |
#15
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On Thu, 07 Feb 2008 00:28:08 GMT, "JoeSpareBedroom"
wrote: "Walter Cohen" wrote in message ... I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So anything rated 68 CFM and above would work. I've been looking at 80 CFM fans and also 100 CFM fans. If I go with a 100 CFM fan (or even 110) would that be too powerful for my small bathroom or it doesn't matter? There's ALMOST no such thing as too big a fan, especially if noise is not an issue. How many people take showers, and in what period of time? We have a 150 CFM fan, Broan, in our master bath, mounted on an exterior wall, that works flawlessly. We originally wanted an 80 or a 100, but our electrician couldn't get one he liked in those sizes (plus he had a 100 in his own bathroom that wasn't effective), so he got us the 150, and boy, this thing keeps the steam from forming. I don't mind it when the weather is cold out, but others in the house are pussies and wait to turn on the fan until after their showers are finished. Defeating the purpose, in my view, but that's what they do. Anyway, our bathroom is 10' x 7' with the shower pretty much in the middle, and we're very happy with our fan. |
#16
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JoeSpareBedroom wrote:
There's ALMOST no such thing as too big a fan, especially if noise is not an issue. How many people take showers, and in what period of time? I think there are some possible issues with the backflow of combustion gases from furances or hot water heaters with an overly aggressive exhaust fan. My guess is you need the right other ingredients (very tight house, minimal or no fresh air intake, gas hot water heater & furnace, strong fan and limited loss exhaust duct) for this to be a significant issue, but I've heard it mentioned more than once. My personal experience has been that most insulated flexible exhaust ducting of any length is so grossly inefficient that you almost need a high CFM fan for it to be effective at all. |
#17
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Well, I plan on using standard 4" round rigid exhaust ducting (aluminum)
vented through the roof, not the outside wall. Walter "Howard Beale" wrote in message ... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: There's ALMOST no such thing as too big a fan, especially if noise is not an issue. How many people take showers, and in what period of time? I think there are some possible issues with the backflow of combustion gases from furances or hot water heaters with an overly aggressive exhaust fan. My guess is you need the right other ingredients (very tight house, minimal or no fresh air intake, gas hot water heater & furnace, strong fan and limited loss exhaust duct) for this to be a significant issue, but I've heard it mentioned more than once. My personal experience has been that most insulated flexible exhaust ducting of any length is so grossly inefficient that you almost need a high CFM fan for it to be effective at all. |
#18
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Also, when I mount the fan housing to the ceiling joist should I make use of
rubber stand-offs (washers) between the joist and the housing (to eliminate any vibration/noise (in case there is any) against the wood joist? Walter "Howard Beale" wrote in message ... JoeSpareBedroom wrote: There's ALMOST no such thing as too big a fan, especially if noise is not an issue. How many people take showers, and in what period of time? I think there are some possible issues with the backflow of combustion gases from furances or hot water heaters with an overly aggressive exhaust fan. My guess is you need the right other ingredients (very tight house, minimal or no fresh air intake, gas hot water heater & furnace, strong fan and limited loss exhaust duct) for this to be a significant issue, but I've heard it mentioned more than once. My personal experience has been that most insulated flexible exhaust ducting of any length is so grossly inefficient that you almost need a high CFM fan for it to be effective at all. |
#19
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1.) First find the volume of the bathroom. Volume = length x width x height
2.) Find the CFM (cubic feet per minute). Volume / 7.5 Walter wrote in message ... On Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:57:02 -0500, "Walter Cohen" wrote: I did the usual CFM calculation for my bathroom and came up with 68 CFM. So whay don't you share what the "usual cfm calculations" with us? -- Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!! http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/ Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me 'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.' 'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.' HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/ |
#20
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Walter Cohen wrote:
Well, I plan on using standard 4" round rigid exhaust ducting (aluminum) vented through the roof, not the outside wall. If you live in a cold climate, make sure to insulate the ducting as warm air rushing through the ducting can lead to condensation problems in uninsulated space the duct runs through. |
#21
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On Feb 8, 3:30�pm, Howard Beale wrote:
Walter Cohen wrote: Well, I plan on using standard 4" round rigid exhaust ducting (aluminum) vented through the roof, not the outside wall. If you live in a cold climate, make sure to insulate the ducting as warm air rushing through the ducting can lead to condensation problems in uninsulated space the duct runs through. outside wall is better the fewer the roof penetrations the better |
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