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I have a big two car garage detatched from the house. the roof does
not have a gutter system, and I want to put a simple gutter system up. The eaves have the support joists exposed, and run to the drip edge of the roof. I had a gutter company come out just to see how much they would charge to do the job, and they quoted me $1,200.. and, they said that it is a simple job I could do myself. Which, I knew ahead of time. But, also to get some information on doing the job properly myself.. on the sly.. The guy said that a fascia board would need to put up to cover up the joist.. Now, what would the proper thickness be for this? How thick should the wood be, so when I put the gutter up, it is not sticking too far out from the drip edge.. |
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On Feb 3, 12:10*pm, Chris wrote:
I have a big two car garage detatched from the house. the roof does not have a gutter system, and I want to put a simple gutter system up. The eaves have the support joists exposed, and run to the drip edge of the roof. I had a gutter company come out just to see how much they would charge to do the job, and they quoted me $1,200.. and, they said that it is a simple job I could do myself. Which, I knew ahead of time. But, also to get some information on doing the job properly myself.. on the sly.. The guy said that a fascia board would need to put up to cover up the joist.. Now, what would the proper thickness be for this? How thick should the wood be, so when I put the gutter up, it is not sticking too far out from the drip edge.. The fascia should be a nominal 1 x 6. You may have to trim back the end of the roof joist to make sure the drip edge isn't compromised. That should be pretty easily done with a SawzAll. Prime the board front and back and use galvanized nails. HTH Joe |
#4
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On Feb 3, 2:25*pm, "DanG" wrote:
Joe, Won't the lumber size be dependent on roof pitch and rafter size? I strongly recommend a 2x subfascia. *Cutting the tails square and plumb will be the most difficult part of the job. You're right it isn't a quicky job. Best done on scaffolding, not a ladder. Or off the back of your pickup. Whatever, make the marks right, cut to marks with the SawzAll and finish by hand. Dressing the cuts afterwards with an angle grinder to make them perfect might cause some frowns from the journeymen, but, hey! it works. Have to admit I use a Bosch autobody grinder for touch up now and then. The larger rafters on stick built jobs may even need a 1 x 8, but I'm thinking most people use trusses these days so 1 x 6 should work fine. Joe |
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