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Default fascia board for gutter system

I have a big two car garage detatched from the house. the roof does
not have a gutter system, and I want to put a simple gutter system
up.

The eaves have the support joists exposed, and run to the drip edge of
the roof.

I had a gutter company come out just to see how much they would charge
to do the job, and they quoted me $1,200.. and, they said that it is a
simple job I could do myself. Which, I knew ahead of time. But, also
to get some information on doing the job properly myself.. on the
sly..

The guy said that a fascia board would need to put up to cover up the
joist..

Now, what would the proper thickness be for this? How thick should the
wood be, so when I put the gutter up, it is not sticking too far out
from the drip edge..



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Default fascia board for gutter system

On Feb 3, 12:10*pm, Chris wrote:
I have a big two car garage detatched from the house. the roof does
not have a gutter system, and I want to put a simple gutter system
up.

The eaves have the support joists exposed, and run to the drip edge of
the roof.

I had a gutter company come out just to see how much they would charge
to do the job, and they quoted me $1,200.. and, they said that it is a
simple job I could do myself. Which, I knew ahead of time. But, also
to get some information on doing the job properly myself.. on the
sly..

The guy said that a fascia board would need to put up to cover up the
joist..

Now, what would the proper thickness be for this? How thick should the
wood be, so when I put the gutter up, it is not sticking too far out
from the drip edge..


The fascia should be a nominal 1 x 6. You may have to trim back the
end of the roof joist to make sure the drip edge isn't compromised.
That should be pretty easily done with a SawzAll. Prime the board
front and back and use galvanized nails. HTH

Joe
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Default fascia board for gutter system

On Feb 3, 2:25*pm, "DanG" wrote:
Joe,

Won't the lumber size be dependent on roof pitch and rafter size?
I strongly recommend a 2x subfascia. *Cutting the tails square and
plumb will be the most difficult part of the job.


You're right it isn't a quicky job. Best done on scaffolding, not a
ladder. Or off the back of your pickup. Whatever, make the marks
right, cut to marks with the SawzAll and finish by hand. Dressing the
cuts afterwards with an angle grinder to make them perfect might cause
some frowns from the journeymen, but, hey! it works. Have to admit I
use a Bosch autobody grinder for touch up now and then.
The larger rafters on stick built jobs may even need a 1 x 8, but I'm
thinking most people use trusses these days so 1 x 6 should work fine.

Joe
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