Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.

Thanks for any advice.

Some wire nuts recommend twisting the wires and some don't. Personally I
prefer to strip about an inch of insulation then twist the wires. It's
important to hold all the wires tight so none ride up while you're twisting.
Once you have them twisted and tight, cut the twisted end with lineman's
pliers leaving a neat, straight bunch, then twist on the nut. If there is
any exposed conductor, put a wrap of tape on it



wrote in message
...
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.

Thanks for any advice.

wrote in message
...
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.


I have less of problem with this when I use the wing style wire connectors
such as those from Ideal or the Buchanan B-3's. They seem to be deeper than
the standard wirenut. You could wrap some electrical tape around the base of
the wire connector and cover up the copper.

Ben,

This problem should be obvious before you put on the wire nut. If you
think this will happen after you have twisted the wires together use your
wire cutters and remove 1/8" of wire from the twisted ends, then put on the
nut.

Dave M.

On Jan 28, 9:11�am, "Blattus Slafaly � � 0/00 "
wrote:
wrote:
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. �It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. �So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. �I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. �It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. �I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). �Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.

Thanks for any advice.

Make sure it didn't come loose in there then tape the whole thing. No
problem.

--
Blattus Slafaly �? 3 � � �7/8- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I doubt tape is NEC approved. perhaps heat shrink tubing would be
better?

when electric tape gets warm it comes loose

wrote:
On Jan 28, 9:11�am, "Blattus Slafaly � � 0/00 "
wrote:
wrote:
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. �It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).
My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. �So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.
I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. �I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. �It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. �I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). �Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.
Thanks for any advice.
Make sure it didn't come loose in there then tape the whole thing. No
problem.

--
Blattus Slafaly �? 3 � � �7/8- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I doubt tape is NEC approved. perhaps heat shrink tubing would be
better?

when electric tape gets warm it comes loose

There is also a self-vulcanizing tape that when you stretch and wrap on
itself it "glues" itself together and will not unwrap when warmed.

wrote in message
...
On Jan 28, 9:11?am, "Blattus Slafaly ? ? 0/00 "
wrote:
wrote:
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. ?It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. ?So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. ?I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. ?It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. ?I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). ?Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.

Thanks for any advice.

Make sure it didn't come loose in there then tape the whole thing. No
problem.

--
Blattus Slafaly ?? 3 ? ? ?7/8- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I doubt tape is NEC approved. perhaps heat shrink tubing would be
better?

when electric tape gets warm it comes loose

===========

......and gooey. The next person who works on the connection will want to
kill whoever taped it.

wrote in message
...
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.

Thanks for any advice.


You've described the process done incorrectly. Practice on some scrap wire
until you get it right.

On Jan 28, 1:03*am, wrote:
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. *It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. *So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. *I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. *It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. *I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). *Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.

Thanks for any advice.

I twist it, then clip it to the proper length, then screw on the nut,
works every time.

If I am pigtailing a real lot of wires (over 4) then I'll twist it,
put on a wire tie (at end of insulation), clip it to length, then
screw it. The wire tie prevents the twist from falling apart while
you clip it and get the nut on.

wrote in message
...
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.

Remember that from the rules, a wire nut is a short protector and not a
connector. Twisting the wires first helps in all cases, but particularly in
the case of solid wire of around 14 or bigger, since the nut won't twist the
wire that much. I twist the wires with Kleins, then clip what is long and
looks like it will bottom out before the nut is on all the way.

Steve

SteveB wrote:


Remember that from the rules, a wire nut is a short protector and not a
connector. Twisting the wires first helps in all cases, but particularly in
the case of solid wire of around 14 or bigger, since the nut won't twist the
wire that much. I twist the wires with Kleins, then clip what is long and
looks like it will bottom out before the nut is on all the way.

Steve


I believe that is incorrect. Wirenuts are specifically listed for use as
splicing devices not just as an insulator. If you use a quality properly
sized wirenut there is no need to do any twisting or whatever prior to
applying it. I have never seen a manufacturer's app note or any code
reference that suggested or required twisting.

That is the way to do it. Strip more than enough copper.

After striping the wire, hold the wires together making sure the ends
of the insulation are even. Then twist just a little. If one of the
wire's insulation is not lined up, then push on that single wire
enough to make it even.

Then, do a tight twist and cut off the end.


On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 07:06:29 -0500, "RBM" wrote:

Some wire nuts recommend twisting the wires and some don't. Personally I
prefer to strip about an inch of insulation then twist the wires. It's
important to hold all the wires tight so none ride up while you're twisting.
Once you have them twisted and tight, cut the twisted end with lineman's
pliers leaving a neat, straight bunch, then twist on the nut. If there is
any exposed conductor, put a wrap of tape on it



wrote in message
...
Ideally wires going into a wire nut will have only so much bare wire
so that that bare wire is entirely underneath the nut and you only see
insulated wire coming out the bottom. It seems like by design there's
maybe a 1/4" of insulation tucked up in the nut (measuring from the
nut's bottom edge).

My question is what if one of the wires in the nut has its insulation
cut point at about level with the nut's bottom. So that if you look
straight on from the side you don't see any bare wire, but if you tilt
the nut so you can underneath it you can see the bare wire just above
the rim.

I can't imagine this really matters, but thought i'd check first. I'm
finding this happening to me occasionally as I do a project. It's
when I've got 4 #12's to fit in a red wire nut. I twist them with my
klein's first (as directed by the inspector). Occasionally, although
the wires start with the same amount of bare wire all lined up, one of
those wires slips down a bit during the twist, so that if I were to
cut off the bare twist so that that one wire will stick up well in the
nut, the rest of the wires would be pretty short.

Thanks for any advice.

On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 17:33:59 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

That explains all the Electricians who have tried to kill me.

Are you implying that anything has been suggested that is not an
accepted wiring method?

Please explain.

On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 17:42:24 -0500, Terry
wrote:

On Mon, 28 Jan 2008 17:33:59 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

That explains all the Electricians who have tried to kill me.

Are you implying that anything has been suggested that is not an
accepted wiring method?

Please explain.

Never mind.

When I first read your message, it took it to mean that electricians
that used electrical tape were trying to kill you.

"George" wrote in message
. ..
SteveB wrote:


Remember that from the rules, a wire nut is a short protector and not a
connector. Twisting the wires first helps in all cases, but particularly
in the case of solid wire of around 14 or bigger, since the nut won't
twist the wire that much. I twist the wires with Kleins, then clip what
is long and looks like it will bottom out before the nut is on all the
way.

Steve
I believe that is incorrect. Wirenuts are specifically listed for use as
splicing devices not just as an insulator. If you use a quality properly
sized wirenut there is no need to do any twisting or whatever prior to
applying it. I have never seen a manufacturer's app note or any code
reference that suggested or required twisting.

Just stating opinion. It could be incorrect. Everyone has the right to do
it any old way they want to.

Steve

In article , "JoeSpareBedroom" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.net...
In article , "SteveB"
wrote:

Remember that from the rules, a wire nut is a short protector and not a
connector.

Nonsense. Just look on the box, and you'll see "Listed as a pressure-type wire
connector on the following..."


This is the 2nd time you've agreed with me in less than a week. Something is
wrong here.

You're getting smarter? g

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

According to Stormin Mormon :
Wrap wirenut with electrical tape when completed.

You run the risk of an inspector deciding that the tape is
being used to hide sloppy workmanship, and tear it off to
check.

It's better to avoid needing it in the first place. Lining
up insulation ends, twisting, and then clipping the wires
even is a good way to avoid this problem altogether.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Ok, so i suppose you've seen an inspector that actually opens an outlet or
junction box??? I think not. And besides, the tape is perfectly acceptable
procedure.

s

"Chris Lewis" wrote in message
...
According to Stormin Mormon :
Wrap wirenut with electrical tape when completed.

You run the risk of an inspector deciding that the tape is
being used to hide sloppy workmanship, and tear it off to
check.

It's better to avoid needing it in the first place. Lining
up insulation ends, twisting, and then clipping the wires
even is a good way to avoid this problem altogether.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

According to S. Barker :
Ok, so i suppose you've seen an inspector that actually opens an outlet or
junction box??? I think not.

I most certainly have. In fact, in my last inspection, the inspector
noticed that the electrician forget to grease the aluminum subpanel feed
connection in the subpanel (which required pulling two panel covers off
to find out).

He was about to slice apart the tape and U-bolt splice at the other
end's junction box before I told him that I was standing talking to the
electrician when he greased it, "I didn't see him do the other end,
but yes, I guarantee you he did grease _this_ end, and I'd rather
not have to redo _these_ connections.".

And besides, the tape is perfectly acceptable procedure.

Of course it's acceptable procedure. But if the inspector has
reason to believe that you've been cutting corners elsewhere,
the tape may be a red flag, and he may open up at least one
to see if you're hiding. If he finds a sloppy connection, he may
well start opening more.

At that, the wording I was using is partially paraphrased from P.S. Knight's
books on electrical wiring (which are the DIYers bible for wiring
in Canada. He also writes/publishes the primary training material for
Canadian electricians) on _exactly_ this topic (taping wirenut
connections).

See the electrical wiring FAQ on the same topic.

Of course, some inspectors don't do much. Others take things rather
more seriously. And apparently some don't do much if you install a
bottle of scotch in the main panel. I liked having this inspector out -
not only did he find what might have caused serious problems later on,
he also gave me some valuable advice for the wiring of the garage
itself, and saved me a lots of work and money when it was done.
--
Chris Lewis,

Age and Treachery will Triumph over Youth and Skill
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.