When I renovated my kitchen, I used the H7ICAT hi-hats. ( insulation
rated, air tight). from what I read on the spec sheet on Cooper's
website, there are only like 6 or 7 trims/baffles you can use.
http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfi..._H7baffles.pdf

But I just wanted the basic baffle. I used the 310 baffle with the R30
65 watt bulb.


When I installed it, if you look up into the hi-hat, you can see some
of the inside of the housing. It seems that either the baffle is too
wide on top , or the bulb is too small. I did push the adjustable
light socket all the way up, so it's as far up as it will go.
It's really not noticeable unless the light is off and if you look
up. I was just curious if anyone encountered a similiar problem

The 310 is not an airtite trim. For airtite the most standard looking trim
is 30 wat or pat if you want black. If you don't need or want airtite, you
can use the 410 trim with an R-40 65 wat lamp. This will fill most of the
space around the lamp


"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
When I renovated my kitchen, I used the H7ICAT hi-hats. ( insulation
rated, air tight). from what I read on the spec sheet on Cooper's
website, there are only like 6 or 7 trims/baffles you can use.
http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfi..._H7baffles.pdf

But I just wanted the basic baffle. I used the 310 baffle with the R30
65 watt bulb.


When I installed it, if you look up into the hi-hat, you can see some
of the inside of the housing. It seems that either the baffle is too
wide on top , or the bulb is too small. I did push the adjustable
light socket all the way up, so it's as far up as it will go.
It's really not noticeable unless the light is off and if you look
up. I was just curious if anyone encountered a similiar problem

On Dec 24, 2:12*pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message

...

When I renovated my kitchen, I used the H7ICAT hi-hats. ( insulation
rated, air tight). from what I read on the spec sheet on Cooper's
website, there are only like 6 or 7 trims/baffles you can use.
http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfi..._H7baffles.pdf

But I just wanted the basic baffle. I used the 310 baffle with the R30
65 watt bulb.

When I installed it, if you look up into the hi-hat, you can see some
of the inside of the housing. It seems that either the baffle is too
wide on top , or the bulb is too small. I did push the adjustable
light socket all the way up, so it's as far up as it will go.
*It's really not noticeable unless the light is off and if you look
up. I was just curious if anyone encountered a similiar problem

Are you sure that you have the 310 trim and not a 410. *They are almost
identical except that the 310 is somewhat conical to help the bulb hide the
guts of the fixture. *Something else to consider is that there are R30 short
neck and R30 long neck bulbs. *In the H7 you should use the long neck.

Yes I have the 310 with BR30 65W bulbs ( as it says on the chart). I
understand it is not an airtite baffle, but it is one of the baffles
that can be used on the H7ICAT. That's why I'm trying to find out why
the bulb does not fill more of the fixture than I thought it should.
By the way, it seems the big box stores don't carry the 30WAT baffle.
What makes it airtite? Is there a gasket around the edge of the
baffle? Because my hi-hats came with gaskets that I put on with the
310 baffles.

Unlike the 310 or 410, the airtite is a solid one piece cone with a flange
on one end and a small round opening at the other end. The lamp socket is
removed from the bracket inside the existing housing and attached directly
to the cone. The cone has expanding spring clips that attach to those open
slots on the side of the housing




"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
On Dec 24, 2:12 pm, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"Mikepier" wrote in message

...

When I renovated my kitchen, I used the H7ICAT hi-hats. ( insulation
rated, air tight). from what I read on the spec sheet on Cooper's
website, there are only like 6 or 7 trims/baffles you can use.
http://www.cooperlighting.com/specfi..._H7baffles.pdf

But I just wanted the basic baffle. I used the 310 baffle with the R30
65 watt bulb.

When I installed it, if you look up into the hi-hat, you can see some
of the inside of the housing. It seems that either the baffle is too
wide on top , or the bulb is too small. I did push the adjustable
light socket all the way up, so it's as far up as it will go.
It's really not noticeable unless the light is off and if you look
up. I was just curious if anyone encountered a similiar problem

Are you sure that you have the 310 trim and not a 410. They are almost
identical except that the 310 is somewhat conical to help the bulb hide
the
guts of the fixture. Something else to consider is that there are R30
short
neck and R30 long neck bulbs. In the H7 you should use the long neck.

Yes I have the 310 with BR30 65W bulbs ( as it says on the chart). I
understand it is not an airtite baffle, but it is one of the baffles
that can be used on the H7ICAT. That's why I'm trying to find out why
the bulb does not fill more of the fixture than I thought it should.
By the way, it seems the big box stores don't carry the 30WAT baffle.
What makes it airtite? Is there a gasket around the edge of the
baffle? Because my hi-hats came with gaskets that I put on with the
310 baffles.

Also from what I've searched, there is no difference between R30 and
BR30 bulbs, right? I thought maybe there was a difference and thats
why its not fitting the entire fixture completely.

I believe they are physically the same dimensions. Many recessed fixture
companies use three standard diameter fixtures. One for R-20, one for R-30,
and one for R-40. Halo decided for some reason to use the same frame size
for both R-30 and R-40 on their standard models, and although they curve and
taper the inside baffle on the 310 models, there's still an awful lot of
daylight around the lamp, and it looks silly. If you can get a hold of one
of the airtite trims, it does look a lot nicer. or you can cheat like I do,
and use the 410 trim, and R-40 lamp, just don't exceed the recommended
wattage, or the temperature cutout will trip

"Mikepier" wrote in message
...
Also from what I've searched, there is no difference between R30 and
BR30 bulbs, right? I thought maybe there was a difference and thats
why its not fitting the entire fixture completely.

On Dec 25, 9:49*pm, "RBM" wrote:
I believe they are physically the same dimensions. Many recessed fixture
companies use three standard diameter fixtures. One for R-20, one for R-30,
and one for R-40. Halo decided for some reason to use the same frame size
for both R-30 and R-40 on their standard models, and although they curve and
taper the inside baffle on the 310 models, there's still an awful lot of
daylight around the lamp, and it looks silly. If you can get a hold of one
of the airtite trims, it does look a lot nicer. or you can cheat like I do,
and use the 410 trim, and R-40 lamp, just don't exceed the recommended
wattage, or the temperature cutout will trip


Thanks for the info. I'll look at the box stores again to see if they
have that 30wat trim, or I might order one online. If it does look
better, then I'll replace them.

Thanks for the info. I'll look at the box stores again to see if they
have that 30wat trim, or I might order one online. If it does look
better, then I'll replace them.

Update: Ok I went to Lowes at 6:30 this morning and I did find the
30WAT baffle. I see what you mean how its cone shaped, and how you
have to remove the socket from the housing and attach it to the
baffle. I tested it with an R30 bulb and it looks like a better fit.
I only hope now that HomeExpo will take back the 8- 310 baffles that I
originally bought about a month ago. I threw out the packages. If not,
I have to eat them, $90 worth.
Oh well, you live and learn, but at least now the hi-hats will look
better. It would be nice if Cooper Lighting had a better explanation
as to what baffles will work and what baffles will look good, because
their list is rather vague.