My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.

My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.


I imagine this mod:

Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) and output it to the 110V element.

Adjust to a mild red color.

Grill .

What say you?

BoyntonStu

On Nov 25, 8:17�pm, BoyntonStu wrote:
My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.

My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.

I imagine this mod:

Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) �and output it to the 110V element.

Adjust to a mild red color.

Grill .

What say you?

BoyntonStu

great heat till the element burns out

you might check about adding a second element somehow, providing 240
volts, providing 120 to each element.

wouldnt t be easier to buy a cheap propane grill?

On Nov 25, 9:26 pm, " wrote:
On Nov 25, 8:17�pm, BoyntonStu wrote:



My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.

My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.

I imagine this mod:

Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) �and output it to the 110V element.

Adjust to a mild red color.

Grill .

What say you?

BoyntonStu

great heat till the element burns out

you might check about adding a second element somehow, providing 240
volts, providing 120 to each element.

wouldnt t be easier to buy a cheap propane grill?

I intend to run the element with about 15 Amps instead of 12.

Yes, it will shorten the life a bit, but it is currently barely
glowing red.

You have to turn off the lights to see it.

I like the convenience of my Patio Caddy electric.

It is smaller and insulated.

It gets up to 500F.

I prefer electric and I have retired my gas grills.

On Nov 25, 8:17=EF=BF=BDpm, BoyntonStu wrote:
My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.

My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.

I imagine this mod:

Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) =EF=BF=BDand output it to the 110V element.

Adjust to a mild red color.

If you are using an extension cord:

I suggest measuring voltage across the line at the grill's plug and at
the outlet that your extension cord is plugged into.

If you lose more than just a few volts, get a new extension cord. Get
one with as heavy a gauge of wire as you can find (preferably AWG 12,
rated for 20 amps), and in the shortest length that you can find that will
work.

Volts dropped with 12.5 amps at wire temperature 30 C: (Note -
remedying a voltage drop will increase your current slightly! This is why
I am using 12.5 amps rather than 12.2 amps.) Feet is length of cord, and
volts dropped is "round trip drop", considering copper wire length of
twice the length of the cord.

AWG 25 ft 50 ft 100 ft

16 2.6 5.2 10.4

14 1.64 3.28 6.56

12 1.03 2.06 4.12

These figures are only approximate, since wire has a tolerance in cross
section area, and stranded wire usually does not exactly match an AWG
number.

I would change the extension cord if this will reduce voltage drop by
more than 3-4 volts or so.

Also, if you are using 16 AWG extension cord, I consider its typical 13
amp rating not as conservative as the 15 amp rating typical of 14 AWG
extension cord. For "equal conservativeness", I would use a 16 AWG
extension cord with no more than 11 amps.

I also doubt any decent 100 foot extension cord comes in a gauge thinner
than AWG 14.

- Don Klipstein )

In ,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 25, 9:26 pm, " wrote:
On Nov 25, 8:17=EF=BF=BDpm, BoyntonStu wrote:

My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.

My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.

I imagine this mod:

Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) =EF=BF=BDand output it to the 110V element.

Adjust to a mild red color.

great heat till the element burns out

you might check about adding a second element somehow, providing 240
volts, providing 120 to each element.

wouldnt t be easier to buy a cheap propane grill?

I intend to run the element with about 15 Amps instead of 12.

Yes, it will shorten the life a bit, but it is currently barely
glowing red.

15 amps instead of 12.2? If the resistance does not vary with voltage,
then this means an RMS voltage of (15/12.2) times whatever voltage the
element is now getting. This means power going into the heating
element will be (15/12.2) squared times what it is getting now, or a 51%
boost. More still if you control amps and the element's resistance
increases with temperature (which it probably will). This does not sound
like a moderate "red heat" but a brightish orange or maybe even a quite
bright yellowish orange. I would operate the grill far from anything
flammable, and have the plug in easy reach, also a largish BC rated fire
extinguisher within reach.
Bare nichrome wire can glow orange, but a heating element other than
bare nichrome wire should generally not get past "dim side orangish red"
that an electric stove "burner" does, and some may be limited to lower
surface temperatures still!

If you want to check the effective voltage across the heating element
while it has current or effective voltage adjusted by anything other than
a "variac"-like device or a true rheostat (extremely unlikely, also would
make close to enough heat to cook with), your RMS voltage reading will
read erroneously low unless you use a "true RMS" voltmeter.

And if the voltage across the plug of your grill according to a true RMS
voltmeter is above 125-126 volts or something close to that, I suspect 132
possibly but tops, then the UL listing of your grill does not apply, and
your fire insurance company can give you grief if they have to get
involved with anything related to this.

For that matter, your booster may turn your grill setup into an
"experimental apparatus" lacking benefit of UL listing from the get-go!

You have to turn off the lights to see it.

I like the convenience of my Patio Caddy electric.

It is smaller and insulated.

It gets up to 500F.

I prefer electric and I have retired my gas grills.

- Don Klipstein )

On Nov 25, 8:17 pm, BoyntonStu wrote:
My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.

My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.

I imagine this mod:

Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) and output it to the 110V element.

Adjust to a mild red color.

Grill .

What say you?

BoyntonStu


You have to weigh the pros and cons of a new grill verses the
electric fire you'll have by modifying the old grill.

On Nov 25, 10:45 pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:
In ,



BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 25, 9:26 pm, " wrote:
On Nov 25, 8:17=EF=BF=BDpm, BoyntonStu wrote:

My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.

My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.

I imagine this mod:

Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) =EF=BF=BDand output it to the 110V element.

Adjust to a mild red color.

great heat till the element burns out

you might check about adding a second element somehow, providing 240
volts, providing 120 to each element.

wouldnt t be easier to buy a cheap propane grill?

I intend to run the element with about 15 Amps instead of 12.

Yes, it will shorten the life a bit, but it is currently barely
glowing red.

15 amps instead of 12.2? If the resistance does not vary with voltage,
then this means an RMS voltage of (15/12.2) times whatever voltage the
element is now getting. This means power going into the heating
element will be (15/12.2) squared times what it is getting now, or a 51%
boost. More still if you control amps and the element's resistance
increases with temperature (which it probably will). This does not sound
like a moderate "red heat" but a brightish orange or maybe even a quite
bright yellowish orange. I would operate the grill far from anything
flammable, and have the plug in easy reach, also a largish BC rated fire
extinguisher within reach.
Bare nichrome wire can glow orange, but a heating element other than
bare nichrome wire should generally not get past "dim side orangish red"
that an electric stove "burner" does, and some may be limited to lower
surface temperatures still!

If you want to check the effective voltage across the heating element
while it has current or effective voltage adjusted by anything other than
a "variac"-like device or a true rheostat (extremely unlikely, also would
make close to enough heat to cook with), your RMS voltage reading will
read erroneously low unless you use a "true RMS" voltmeter.

And if the voltage across the plug of your grill according to a true RMS
voltmeter is above 125-126 volts or something close to that, I suspect 132
possibly but tops, then the UL listing of your grill does not apply, and
your fire insurance company can give you grief if they have to get
involved with anything related to this.

For that matter, your booster may turn your grill setup into an
"experimental apparatus" lacking benefit of UL listing from the get-go!

You have to turn off the lights to see it.

I like the convenience of my Patio Caddy electric.

It is smaller and insulated.

It gets up to 500F.

I prefer electric and I have retired my gas grills.

- Don Klipstein )

Don,

When I look at my 220 V oven element in the 'broil' setting I can
plainly see glowing red.

It seems to me that the 110 V grill element is of the same type
material, and for it to run at 110V it must be shorter in length or
thinner in diameter..

Logic follows that it should also glow the same color as the oven
element without premature failure.

BoyntonStu

In article , (Don Klipstein) wrote:

And if the voltage across the plug of your grill according to a true RMS
voltmeter is above 125-126 volts or something close to that, I suspect 132
possibly but tops, then the UL listing of your grill does not apply, and
your fire insurance company can give you grief if they have to get
involved with anything related to this.

Yes, yes, we hear that all the time: the insurance won't pay off. Can you, or
anyone, cite even _one_ case of that actually happening?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article , BoyntonStu wrote:
When I look at my 220 V oven element in the 'broil' setting I can
plainly see glowing red.

It seems to me that the 110 V grill element is of the same type
material, and for it to run at 110V it must be shorter in length or
thinner in diameter..

Logic follows that it should also glow the same color as the oven
element without premature failure.

*If* it's the same material... which probably can't be determined reliably
from visual inspection...

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

I have an electric turkey fryer and it
has similar problems, though the elements
can't glow red because they are
submerged in oil. The problem is that
when you
dump a room temperature 16 pound bird in
the 400 degree oil, it immediately drops
to something like 260 degrees or so.
With the electric fryer, it never really
recovers
as it does in a mega-btu propane fryer
.... but the electric isn't as dangerous.
It is
much better to fry the bird at somewhere
over 300 degrees for best results.
Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
There are electronic ways to controlling
the element, however, you might be able to
borrow a Variac to try it as an experiment.

In my case this would be a problem as
the control is electronic. I wouldn't try a
higher voltage unless the control could
be isolated on a separate 110 volt
connection.
I do, however, have 2 elements units and
I will try to put both in the fryer
together,
powering them from 2 separate circuits.

BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 25, 10:45 pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:
In ,



BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 25, 9:26 pm, " wrote:
On Nov 25, 8:17=EF=BF=BDpm, BoyntonStu wrote:
My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.
My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.
I imagine this mod:
Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) =EF=BF=BDand output it to the 110V element.
Adjust to a mild red color.
great heat till the element burns out
you might check about adding a second element somehow, providing 240
volts, providing 120 to each element.
wouldnt t be easier to buy a cheap propane grill?
I intend to run the element with about 15 Amps instead of 12.
Yes, it will shorten the life a bit, but it is currently barely
glowing red.
15 amps instead of 12.2? If the resistance does not vary with voltage,
then this means an RMS voltage of (15/12.2) times whatever voltage the
element is now getting. This means power going into the heating
element will be (15/12.2) squared times what it is getting now, or a 51%
boost. More still if you control amps and the element's resistance
increases with temperature (which it probably will). This does not sound
like a moderate "red heat" but a brightish orange or maybe even a quite
bright yellowish orange. I would operate the grill far from anything
flammable, and have the plug in easy reach, also a largish BC rated fire
extinguisher within reach.
Bare nichrome wire can glow orange, but a heating element other than
bare nichrome wire should generally not get past "dim side orangish red"
that an electric stove "burner" does, and some may be limited to lower
surface temperatures still!

If you want to check the effective voltage across the heating element
while it has current or effective voltage adjusted by anything other than
a "variac"-like device or a true rheostat (extremely unlikely, also would
make close to enough heat to cook with), your RMS voltage reading will
read erroneously low unless you use a "true RMS" voltmeter.

And if the voltage across the plug of your grill according to a true RMS
voltmeter is above 125-126 volts or something close to that, I suspect 132
possibly but tops, then the UL listing of your grill does not apply, and
your fire insurance company can give you grief if they have to get
involved with anything related to this.

For that matter, your booster may turn your grill setup into an
"experimental apparatus" lacking benefit of UL listing from the get-go!

You have to turn off the lights to see it.
I like the convenience of my Patio Caddy electric.
It is smaller and insulated.
It gets up to 500F.
I prefer electric and I have retired my gas grills.
- Don Klipstein )

Don,

When I look at my 220 V oven element in the 'broil' setting I can
plainly see glowing red.

It seems to me that the 110 V grill element is of the same type
material, and for it to run at 110V it must be shorter in length or
thinner in diameter..

Logic follows that it should also glow the same color as the oven
element without premature failure.

BoyntonStu

In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.

A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36% more
power.

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.

A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36% more
power.

A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.

A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36% more
power.

A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a follow up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36% more
power.

A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

I agree, but if you have connections,
you can borrow one to experiment with.
Also, the idea of a 15A 115V Variac
going to 140V is another good idea.

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 14:38:45 GMT, Art Todesco wrote:


I have an electric turkey fryer and it
has similar problems, though the elements
can't glow red because they are
submerged in oil. The problem is that
when you
dump a room temperature 16 pound bird in
the 400 degree oil, it immediately drops
to something like 260 degrees or so.
With the electric fryer, it never really
recovers
BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 25, 10:45 pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:
In ,



BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 25, 9:26 pm, " wrote:
On Nov 25, 8:17=EF=BF=BDpm, BoyntonStu wrote:
My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.
My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.
I imagine this mod:
Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) =EF=BF=BDand output it to the 110V element.
Adjust to a mild red color.
great heat till the element burns out
you might check about adding a second element somehow, providing 240
volts, providing 120 to each element.
wouldnt t be easier to buy a cheap propane grill?
I intend to run the element with about 15 Amps instead of 12.
Yes, it will shorten the life a bit, but it is currently barely
glowing red.
15 amps instead of 12.2? If the resistance does not vary with voltage,
then this means an RMS voltage of (15/12.2) times whatever voltage the
element is now getting. This means power going into the heating
element will be (15/12.2) squared times what it is getting now, or a 51%
boost. More still if you control amps and the element's resistance
increases with temperature (which it probably will). This does not sound
like a moderate "red heat" but a brightish orange or maybe even a quite
bright yellowish orange. I would operate the grill far from anything
flammable, and have the plug in easy reach, also a largish BC rated fire
extinguisher within reach.
Bare nichrome wire can glow orange, but a heating element other than
bare nichrome wire should generally not get past "dim side orangish red"
that an electric stove "burner" does, and some may be limited to lower
surface temperatures still!

If you want to check the effective voltage across the heating element
while it has current or effective voltage adjusted by anything other than
a "variac"-like device or a true rheostat (extremely unlikely, also would
make close to enough heat to cook with), your RMS voltage reading will
read erroneously low unless you use a "true RMS" voltmeter.

And if the voltage across the plug of your grill according to a true RMS
voltmeter is above 125-126 volts or something close to that, I suspect 132
possibly but tops, then the UL listing of your grill does not apply, and
your fire insurance company can give you grief if they have to get
involved with anything related to this.

For that matter, your booster may turn your grill setup into an
"experimental apparatus" lacking benefit of UL listing from the get-go!

You have to turn off the lights to see it.
I like the convenience of my Patio Caddy electric.
It is smaller and insulated.
It gets up to 500F.
I prefer electric and I have retired my gas grills.
- Don Klipstein )

Don,

When I look at my 220 V oven element in the 'broil' setting I can
plainly see glowing red.

It seems to me that the 110 V grill element is of the same type
material, and for it to run at 110V it must be shorter in length or
thinner in diameter..

Logic follows that it should also glow the same color as the oven
element without premature failure.

BoyntonStu

....
be isolated on a separate 110 volt
connection.
I do, however, have 2 elements units and
I will try to put both in the fryer
together,
powering them from 2 separate circuits.

Just when I thought deep frying turkeys couldn't be any more dangerous.
Maybe you could set the thing on a wobbly table and use a 20' extension cord
with it draped across a high traffic area.

Make sure you have the emergency room on speed dial.

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:32:05 -0800, Smitty Two wrote:


In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.

A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36% more
power.

A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a follow up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

Small fixed adjustments can be made using a standard step down transformer.
Wire the secondary in series with the primary and the load.
If you get it backwards, it'll subtract instead of add.
a 12V transformer will give you 132V out from 120V in.

-----120V in-------
| |
+-----primary------+
| |
| |---------
| |
| -secondary--
| |
-- load -------------

AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:32:05 -0800, Smitty Two wrote:


In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36% more
power.
A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a follow up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

Small fixed adjustments can be made using a standard step down transformer.
Wire the secondary in series with the primary and the load.
If you get it backwards, it'll subtract instead of add.
a 12V transformer will give you 132V out from 120V in.

-----120V in-------
| |
+-----primary------+
| |
| |---------
| |
| -secondary--
| |
-- load -------------
But remember, the secondary of the
transformer must be capable of the load
current. A 12 volt transformer capable
of 15 amps will get pretty large.

On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:34:25 -0600, Art Todesco wrote:


AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:32:05 -0800, Smitty Two wrote:


In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36% more
power.
A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a follow up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

Small fixed adjustments can be made using a standard step down transformer.
Wire the secondary in series with the primary and the load.
If you get it backwards, it'll subtract instead of add.
a 12V transformer will give you 132V out from 120V in.

-----120V in-------
| |
+-----primary------+
| |
| |---------
| |
| -secondary--
| |
-- load -------------
But remember, the secondary of the
transformer must be capable of the load
current. A 12 volt transformer capable
of 15 amps will get pretty large.

****. I wasn't thinking of a 1500-2000W application. There's no
way an inexpensive stepdown transformer will work.

That's very different. never mind. /emily latella

On Nov 26, 5:51 pm, AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:34:25 -0600, Art Todesco wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:32:05 -0800, Smitty Two wrote:

In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36% more
power.
A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a follow up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

Small fixed adjustments can be made using a standard step down transformer.
Wire the secondary in series with the primary and the load.
If you get it backwards, it'll subtract instead of add.
a 12V transformer will give you 132V out from 120V in.

-----120V in-------
| |
+-----primary------+
| |
| |---------
| |
| -secondary--
| |
-- load -------------
But remember, the secondary of the
transformer must be capable of the load
current. A 12 volt transformer capable
of 15 amps will get pretty large.

****. I wasn't thinking of a 1500-2000W application. There's no
way an inexpensive stepdown transformer will work.

That's very different. never mind. /emily latella

SUCCESS!!

Here's what I did.

I bought a 240 VAC Jenn-Air infinite controller for a range top burner
(eBay $5.00)

There are 4 contacts: 2-Line in and 2-heater out.

I installed the controller and a pair of 115 VAC socket connectors
pulled from old PC's onto a panel.

The HOT (black) from each connector goes to a LINE connector.

Plugged in a pair of extension cords from the opposite side of the
panel (measured 240 VAC black to black) and used the PC power cords to
connect.

It works just like a dimmer. At 50% she glows red hot and it control
cycles on/off to maintain the temp.

Cheap, easy way to control a 110 VAC heater element with 220 VAC.

It works better than expected!

In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 5:51 pm, AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:34:25 -0600, Art Todesco
wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:32:05 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36%
more
power.
A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a follow
up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

Small fixed adjustments can be made using a standard step down
transformer.
Wire the secondary in series with the primary and the load.
If you get it backwards, it'll subtract instead of add.
a 12V transformer will give you 132V out from 120V in.

-----120V in-------
| |
+-----primary------+
| |
| |---------
| |
| -secondary--
| |
-- load -------------
But remember, the secondary of the
transformer must be capable of the load
current. A 12 volt transformer capable
of 15 amps will get pretty large.

****. I wasn't thinking of a 1500-2000W application. There's no
way an inexpensive stepdown transformer will work.

That's very different. never mind. /emily latella

SUCCESS!!

Here's what I did.

I bought a 240 VAC Jenn-Air infinite controller for a range top burner
(eBay $5.00)

There are 4 contacts: 2-Line in and 2-heater out.

I installed the controller and a pair of 115 VAC socket connectors
pulled from old PC's onto a panel.

The HOT (black) from each connector goes to a LINE connector.

Plugged in a pair of extension cords from the opposite side of the
panel (measured 240 VAC black to black) and used the PC power cords to
connect.

It works just like a dimmer. At 50% she glows red hot and it control
cycles on/off to maintain the temp.

Cheap, easy way to control a 110 VAC heater element with 220 VAC.

It works better than expected!

Well, that's great! I'll let others address electrical safety concerns.
All I wonder is, how long will the element last, juiced up like that.
Let us know sometime down the road...

On Dec 7, 12:07 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,



BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 26, 5:51 pm, AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:34:25 -0600, Art Todesco
wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:32:05 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36%
more
power.
A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a follow
up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

Small fixed adjustments can be made using a standard step down
transformer.
Wire the secondary in series with the primary and the load.
If you get it backwards, it'll subtract instead of add.
a 12V transformer will give you 132V out from 120V in.

-----120V in-------
| |
+-----primary------+
| |
| |---------
| |
| -secondary--
| |
-- load -------------
But remember, the secondary of the
transformer must be capable of the load
current. A 12 volt transformer capable
of 15 amps will get pretty large.

****. I wasn't thinking of a 1500-2000W application. There's no
way an inexpensive stepdown transformer will work.

That's very different. never mind. /emily latella

SUCCESS!!

Here's what I did.

I bought a 240 VAC Jenn-Air infinite controller for a range top burner
(eBay $5.00)

There are 4 contacts: 2-Line in and 2-heater out.

I installed the controller and a pair of 115 VAC socket connectors
pulled from old PC's onto a panel.

The HOT (black) from each connector goes to a LINE connector.

Plugged in a pair of extension cords from the opposite side of the
panel (measured 240 VAC black to black) and used the PC power cords to
connect.

It works just like a dimmer. At 50% she glows red hot and it control
cycles on/off to maintain the temp.

Cheap, easy way to control a 110 VAC heater element with 220 VAC.

It works better than expected!

Well, that's great! I'll let others address electrical safety concerns.
All I wonder is, how long will the element last, juiced up like that.
Let us know sometime down the road...

The element is running at about 140 VAC equivalent.

AFAIK Europe uses 220 VAC.

Your mileage may vary.

On Dec 7, 8:24 am, BoyntonStu wrote:
On Dec 7, 12:07 am, Smitty Two wrote:



In article
,

BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 26, 5:51 pm, AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:34:25 -0600, Art Todesco
wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:32:05 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP 36%
more
power.
A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a follow
up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

Small fixed adjustments can be made using a standard step down
transformer.
Wire the secondary in series with the primary and the load.
If you get it backwards, it'll subtract instead of add.
a 12V transformer will give you 132V out from 120V in.

-----120V in-------
| |
+-----primary------+
| |
| |---------
| |
| -secondary--
| |
-- load -------------
But remember, the secondary of the
transformer must be capable of the load
current. A 12 volt transformer capable
of 15 amps will get pretty large.

****. I wasn't thinking of a 1500-2000W application. There's no
way an inexpensive stepdown transformer will work.

That's very different. never mind. /emily latella

SUCCESS!!

Here's what I did.

I bought a 240 VAC Jenn-Air infinite controller for a range top burner
(eBay $5.00)

There are 4 contacts: 2-Line in and 2-heater out.

I installed the controller and a pair of 115 VAC socket connectors
pulled from old PC's onto a panel.

The HOT (black) from each connector goes to a LINE connector.

Plugged in a pair of extension cords from the opposite side of the
panel (measured 240 VAC black to black) and used the PC power cords to
connect.

It works just like a dimmer. At 50% she glows red hot and it control
cycles on/off to maintain the temp.

Cheap, easy way to control a 110 VAC heater element with 220 VAC.

It works better than expected!

Well, that's great! I'll let others address electrical safety concerns.
All I wonder is, how long will the element last, juiced up like that.
Let us know sometime down the road...

The element is running at about 140 VAC equivalent.

AFAIK Europe uses 220 VAC.

Your mileage may vary.

Still working great!

I can now grill in 10 minutes chops used to take 30 at 110

In article
,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Dec 7, 8:24 am, BoyntonStu wrote:
On Dec 7, 12:07 am, Smitty Two wrote:



In article
,

BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 26, 5:51 pm, AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 16:34:25 -0600, Art Todesco
wrote:
AZ Nomad wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2007 09:32:05 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article

,
BoyntonStu wrote:

On Nov 26, 11:09 am, Smitty Two
wrote:
In article ,
Art Todesco wrote:

Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
A 120 volt variac goes up to 140 volts, which would give the OP
36%
more
power.
A 15 Amp variac would be nice but very expensive.

A stove controller costs about $5.00 on eBay and it fits a BBQ
grill
enclosure.

220 V is already there.

True, if you don't already have the variac, buying it for that
purpose
would be silly. This is one thread on which I'd like to see a
follow
up;
let us know how it works out, and whether it lasts.

The infinite switches are time-pulse devices, so your voltmeter
isn't
going to help with the adjustment. Eyeball, as you mentioned, is
probably your best friend on this one.

Small fixed adjustments can be made using a standard step down
transformer.
Wire the secondary in series with the primary and the load.
If you get it backwards, it'll subtract instead of add.
a 12V transformer will give you 132V out from 120V in.

-----120V in-------
| |
+-----primary------+
| |
| |---------
| |
| -secondary--
| |
-- load -------------
But remember, the secondary of the
transformer must be capable of the load
current. A 12 volt transformer capable
of 15 amps will get pretty large.

****. I wasn't thinking of a 1500-2000W application. There's no
way an inexpensive stepdown transformer will work.

That's very different. never mind. /emily latella

SUCCESS!!

Here's what I did.

I bought a 240 VAC Jenn-Air infinite controller for a range top burner
(eBay $5.00)

There are 4 contacts: 2-Line in and 2-heater out.

I installed the controller and a pair of 115 VAC socket connectors
pulled from old PC's onto a panel.

The HOT (black) from each connector goes to a LINE connector.

Plugged in a pair of extension cords from the opposite side of the
panel (measured 240 VAC black to black) and used the PC power cords to
connect.

It works just like a dimmer. At 50% she glows red hot and it control
cycles on/off to maintain the temp.

Cheap, easy way to control a 110 VAC heater element with 220 VAC.

It works better than expected!

Well, that's great! I'll let others address electrical safety concerns.
All I wonder is, how long will the element last, juiced up like that.
Let us know sometime down the road...

The element is running at about 140 VAC equivalent.

AFAIK Europe uses 220 VAC.

Your mileage may vary.

Still working great!

I can now grill in 10 minutes chops used to take 30 at 110

Awesome. Congrats on your ingenuity, and thanks for the followup.