I have an electric turkey fryer and it
has similar problems, though the elements
can't glow red because they are
submerged in oil. The problem is that
when you
dump a room temperature 16 pound bird in
the 400 degree oil, it immediately drops
to something like 260 degrees or so.
With the electric fryer, it never really
recovers
as it does in a mega-btu propane fryer
.... but the electric isn't as dangerous.
It is
much better to fry the bird at somewhere
over 300 degrees for best results.
Anyway, what I would do is try in your
case is a 220 volt Variac and adjust the
voltage as needed.
There are electronic ways to controlling
the element, however, you might be able to
borrow a Variac to try it as an experiment.

In my case this would be a problem as
the control is electronic. I wouldn't try a
higher voltage unless the control could
be isolated on a separate 110 volt
connection.
I do, however, have 2 elements units and
I will try to put both in the fryer
together,
powering them from 2 separate circuits.

BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 25, 10:45 pm, (Don Klipstein) wrote:
In ,



BoyntonStu wrote:
On Nov 25, 9:26 pm, " wrote:
On Nov 25, 8:17=EF=BF=BDpm, BoyntonStu wrote:
My Sunbeam 110 V electric grill works OK but it glows only faintly red
and it takes a while to grill a steak.
My clamp-on meter shows 12.2 Amps.
I imagine this mod:
Connect a 220 V infinite range element controller (15 Amp at 220 V
capacity) =EF=BF=BDand output it to the 110V element.
Adjust to a mild red color.
great heat till the element burns out
you might check about adding a second element somehow, providing 240
volts, providing 120 to each element.
wouldnt t be easier to buy a cheap propane grill?
I intend to run the element with about 15 Amps instead of 12.
Yes, it will shorten the life a bit, but it is currently barely
glowing red.
15 amps instead of 12.2? If the resistance does not vary with voltage,
then this means an RMS voltage of (15/12.2) times whatever voltage the
element is now getting. This means power going into the heating
element will be (15/12.2) squared times what it is getting now, or a 51%
boost. More still if you control amps and the element's resistance
increases with temperature (which it probably will). This does not sound
like a moderate "red heat" but a brightish orange or maybe even a quite
bright yellowish orange. I would operate the grill far from anything
flammable, and have the plug in easy reach, also a largish BC rated fire
extinguisher within reach.
Bare nichrome wire can glow orange, but a heating element other than
bare nichrome wire should generally not get past "dim side orangish red"
that an electric stove "burner" does, and some may be limited to lower
surface temperatures still!

If you want to check the effective voltage across the heating element
while it has current or effective voltage adjusted by anything other than
a "variac"-like device or a true rheostat (extremely unlikely, also would
make close to enough heat to cook with), your RMS voltage reading will
read erroneously low unless you use a "true RMS" voltmeter.

And if the voltage across the plug of your grill according to a true RMS
voltmeter is above 125-126 volts or something close to that, I suspect 132
possibly but tops, then the UL listing of your grill does not apply, and
your fire insurance company can give you grief if they have to get
involved with anything related to this.

For that matter, your booster may turn your grill setup into an
"experimental apparatus" lacking benefit of UL listing from the get-go!

You have to turn off the lights to see it.
I like the convenience of my Patio Caddy electric.
It is smaller and insulated.
It gets up to 500F.
I prefer electric and I have retired my gas grills.
- Don Klipstein )

Don,

When I look at my 220 V oven element in the 'broil' setting I can
plainly see glowing red.

It seems to me that the 110 V grill element is of the same type
material, and for it to run at 110V it must be shorter in length or
thinner in diameter..

Logic follows that it should also glow the same color as the oven
element without premature failure.

BoyntonStu