I have a Kenmore dryer (model no. 110.96588210) in which I gradually
replaced every major part to the point it was running as new (heating
element, belt, support rollers, motor).

It was running great for several month (after the last repair - in
which I replaced the support rollers and the motor), but now it won't
heat... not only it runs cool, the control dial (that sets the
program) won't progress either.

I checked the heating element (about one year old) with an ohm meter
and it seems to be perfect (~10 ohms).

I now believe that the problem must be in one of the parts that I
*didn't* replace (amazing how the manufacturer programmed the machine
to be replaced after 10-12 years...). Probably something in the
control mechanism (or themocouple?).

My question is: how do I pinpoint the exact part that needs
replacement so that I can order it?

Thanks!
Sam

On Nov 10, 5:06 pm, "
wrote:
I have a Kenmore dryer (model no. 110.96588210) in which I gradually
replaced every major part to the point it was running as new (heating
element, belt, support rollers, motor).

It was running great for several month (after the last repair - in
which I replaced the support rollers and the motor), but now it won't
heat... not only it runs cool, the control dial (that sets the
program) won't progress either.

I checked the heating element (about one year old) with an ohm meter
and it seems to be perfect (~10 ohms).

I now believe that the problem must be in one of the parts that I
*didn't* replace (amazing how the manufacturer programmed the machine
to be replaced after 10-12 years...). Probably something in the
control mechanism (or themocouple?).

My question is: how do I pinpoint the exact part that needs
replacement so that I can order it?

Thanks!
Sam

Sam-

Since you've already replaced a bunch of parts & are now getting no
heat .....

I'm thinking its one of the heating element control thermostats, there
are a couple and anyone if it fails open will kill the heating
circuit.

like.....
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSea...2821&PPStack=1

the way to tell if they're bad is to take a look of them, if they
look cooked they probaly are.

You can remove the wiring & check resistance.

I order from

www.repairclinic.com

they have a trouble shooting help that works pretty

cheers
Bob

wrote:
I have a Kenmore dryer (model no. 110.96588210) in which I gradually
replaced every major part to the point it was running as new (heating
element, belt, support rollers, motor).

It was running great for several month (after the last repair - in
which I replaced the support rollers and the motor), but now it won't
heat... not only it runs cool, the control dial (that sets the
program) won't progress either.

I checked the heating element (about one year old) with an ohm meter
and it seems to be perfect (~10 ohms).

I now believe that the problem must be in one of the parts that I
*didn't* replace (amazing how the manufacturer programmed the machine
to be replaced after 10-12 years...). Probably something in the
control mechanism (or themocouple?).

My question is: how do I pinpoint the exact part that needs
replacement so that I can order it?

Thanks!
Sam

Hi,
Trouble shooting is exercising logic. With a meter following step by
step logic sequence. Like already mentioned thermal limit sesor switch
may have popped(some are resettable). Looking at the diagram go backward
from heating element towards the power source.
Good luck,

wrote in message
I checked the heating element (about one year old) with an ohm meter
and it seems to be perfect (~10 ohms).

I now believe that the problem must be in one of the parts that I
*didn't* replace (amazing how the manufacturer programmed the machine
to be replaced after 10-12 years...). Probably something in the
control mechanism (or themocouple?).

My question is: how do I pinpoint the exact part that needs
replacement so that I can order it?

Try the diagnostic aids at www.applianceaid.com or www.repairclinic.com

On Nov 10, 9:13 pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
Trouble shooting is exercising logic. With a meter following step by
step logic sequence. Like already mentioned thermal limit sesor switch
may have popped(some are resettable). Looking at the diagram go backward
from heating element towards the power source.

Thank you all for your answers. I followed Tony's advice and with an
ohm meter I verified:
1. Heating element - ~10 ohms (good)
2. THERMOSTAT 250 DEGREE F (P/N 3390291) - 0 ohms (good).
3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!

I believe that when removed from the system, at room temperature, the
THERMAL CUT-OFF part should show 0 ohms - and thus this is the
defective part.

Am I right?

Thanks,
Sam

On Nov 11, 1:45 pm, "
wrote:
On Nov 10, 9:13 pm, Tony Hwang wrote:

Trouble shooting is exercising logic. With a meter following step by
step logic sequence. Like already mentioned thermal limit sesor switch
may have popped(some are resettable). Looking at the diagram go backward
from heating element towards the power source.

Thank you all for your answers. I followed Tony's advice and with an
ohm meter I verified:
1. Heating element - ~10 ohms (good)
2. THERMOSTAT 250 DEGREE F (P/N 3390291) - 0 ohms (good).
3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!

I believe that when removed from the system, at room temperature, the
THERMAL CUT-OFF part should show 0 ohms - and thus this is the
defective part.

Am I right?

Thanks,
Sam

Sam-

Sounds like you've found the culprit! Did it looked "cooked"?

cheers
Bob

On Nov 11, 8:45 pm, BobK207 wrote:
3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!


Sounds like you've found the culprit! Did it looked "cooked"?


Thanks! I am pretty sure this is the part that needs replacement
although it doesn't look "cooked". I have verified with with of the
web sites that you provided that indeed the thermal cut-off part
should be normally conducting. It isn't, thus it is the culprit. I
will shortly order the part.

In article om,
" wrote:

On Nov 11, 8:45 pm, BobK207 wrote:
3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!


Sounds like you've found the culprit! Did it looked "cooked"?


Thanks! I am pretty sure this is the part that needs replacement
although it doesn't look "cooked". I have verified with with of the
web sites that you provided that indeed the thermal cut-off part
should be normally conducting. It isn't, thus it is the culprit. I
will shortly order the part.

If possible, you could jumper the connections to that part (i.e., short
or bypass it) for a moment to test your theory before ordering the new
part.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article om,
" wrote:

On Nov 11, 8:45 pm, BobK207 wrote:
3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!

Sounds like you've found the culprit! Did it looked "cooked"?

Thanks! I am pretty sure this is the part that needs replacement
although it doesn't look "cooked". I have verified with with of the
web sites that you provided that indeed the thermal cut-off part
should be normally conducting. It isn't, thus it is the culprit. I
will shortly order the part.

If possible, you could jumper the connections to that part (i.e., short
or bypass it) for a moment to test your theory before ordering the new
part.

Interesting that I have a similar problem just at this time.
A friend of mine bought a used Kenmore Elite model #110-63952102 dryer
that does not work properly, although she was told that it does. The
lint screen was missing. The on-switch works and drum turns until it
gets hot (and really smells hot and plasticky) then it shuts down. It
can be restarted once it has cooled down. I suspected that this might be
the drum thermostat and I talked with a Sears salesperson who knew very
little about it. He guessed several parts including thermostats.

When I looked at the list it was over $60 (almost $20 for a thermostat)
+ tax + shipping + handling, which I thought ridiculous. I looked up
the local yellow pages (I am in N. California) and could find nothing
promising. Next, I remembered a very competent appliance parts company
down in Seaside - near Monterey - that I dealt with years back. I
couldn't remember the name and I did a googlemap on it followed by a
search. It popped up quickly and I called them.

First, I was told that the missing lint screen could be responsible for
the problem, and it was not necessarily the thermostat.
He suggested that I rip it apart and remove all the lint, then try
running it again with a very light load. If it still overheated and
conked out, it was likely to be the thermostat. I won't be able to do
that until the weekend and will then report back.

I will give Sears credit for having great parts drawings with numbers
and parts lists. You just input the model number to start. Here is the
URL http://www3.sears.com/

I have not yet had prices from my Seaside contact but I'm prepared to
bet it will be much better than Sears.

If anyone wants to check it out, here is the info: Mack Stove Co
Appliance Parts Distributor Inc
705 Broadway Ave, Seaside, CA ---- DEREK --- (831) 899-7278.

I can assure everybody that I have no financial interest in this
company. I have found them to be extremely helpful and have very
reasonable prices. About 2 years ago I bought a thermostat for a
Whirlpool dryer for about $8 and a belt for a Whirlpool washer for about
$10.

I wish you success with your task.

RF

Follow up - for the benefit of all:

I just received the part and installed it - and the dryer is back to
working perfectly.

Thank you all for your guidance and help!
Sam

On Nov 13, 10:15 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article om,

" wrote:
On Nov 11, 8:45 pm, BobK207 wrote:
3. THERMAL CUT-OFF (P/N 3398671) - open circuit !!!

Sounds like you've found the culprit! Did it looked "cooked"?

Thanks! I am pretty sure this is the part that needs replacement
although it doesn't look "cooked". I have verified with with of the
web sites that you provided that indeed the thermal cut-off part
should be normally conducting. It isn't, thus it is the culprit. I
will shortly order the part.

If possible, you could jumper the connections to that part (i.e., short
or bypass it) for a moment to test your theory before ordering the new
part.