Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.

On Oct 30, 11:27 am, N8N wrote:
Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.

I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.

On Oct 31, 2:19 pm, z wrote:
On Oct 30, 11:27 am, N8N wrote:

Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.

I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.

You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
at a time.

"greg2468" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Oct 31, 2:19 pm, z wrote:
On Oct 30, 11:27 am, N8N wrote:

Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.

I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.

You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
at a time.


Why should they have a pressure reducing valve?

Bob

"Bob F" wrote in message
...

"greg2468" wrote in message
ps.com...
On Oct 31, 2:19 pm, z wrote:
On Oct 30, 11:27 am, N8N wrote:

Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.

I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.

You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
at a time.


Why should they have a pressure reducing valve?

Bob

Because in some locales (like right here at my house), the unrestricted
water pressure may spike to 100-125, and even if you don't mind your pipes
slamming, some appliances and devices might have issues with.

JoeSpareBedroom wrote:

Why should they have a pressure reducing valve?

Bob

Because in some locales (like right here at my house), the unrestricted
water pressure may spike to 100-125, and even if you don't mind your pipes
slamming, some appliances and devices might have issues with.


Same thing here. I have a 120 PSI gage on the line and daytime pressure
was just fine. One time I happened to look at the gage in the middle of
the night and it was pinned because with low water usage the public
water supply pressure drifts up. I used to frequently change o rings and
washers in valves. I installed a regulator and can't remember the last
time I had to tinker with anything.

On Oct 31, 12:21 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
"greg2468" wrote in message

ps.com...





On Oct 31, 2:19 pm, z wrote:
On Oct 30, 11:27 am, N8N wrote:

Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.

I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.

You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
at a time.

Why should they have a pressure reducing valve?

Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Municipal water supplies commonly have pressures way higher than is
good for residences.

Town of Colfax, WA found out about PRs the hard way. They built a new
tank up on the canyon rim, put it in operation and promplty blew
fittings all over the downtown zone. I dunno the altitue difference
but it is considerable. Somehow they escaped any penalties and
wouldn't help pay for the PRs that everyone had to install.

Harry K

"JoeSpareBedroom" wrote in message
...
"Bob F" wrote in message

You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
at a time.


Why should they have a pressure reducing valve?

Bob

Because in some locales (like right here at my house), the unrestricted water
pressure may spike to 100-125, and even if you don't mind your pipes slamming,
some appliances and devices might have issues with.

His pressure is only 70psi, just like mine. Sure, in some places he might need
one, but this poster certainly doesn't know that.

Bob

greg2468 wrote:
On Oct 31, 2:19 pm, z wrote:

On Oct 30, 11:27 am, N8N wrote:


Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.

Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.

Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.

thanks,

nate

PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.

I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.


You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
at a time.

Hi,
T&P valve works on temperwature and pressure. Pressure is one of two
factors. Don't keep the temperqture too high for safety and like that
T&P valve problem. My house has a water pressure gauge and regulator.
The pressure is set at 60 psi. In my memory at several different houses
I had custom built, never had T&P valve problem.

Tony Hwang wrote:
greg2468 wrote:

On Oct 31, 2:19 pm, z wrote:

On Oct 30, 11:27 am, N8N wrote:


Per an earlier discussion, I have been trying to ensure that I will
not have a future problem with T&P valves in my house... bought a
pressure gauge at the Despot last night on my way home from work
(there's a rant in there, but not pertinent) hooked it up, system
pressure is about 68-70 PSI falling to 60 PSI with a faucet open and
momentarily spiking to maybe 78 PSI. This is measured in the
basement, at about the level of the T&P valves. I left the gauge
connected overnight and the hot water heater went through at least two
cycles and the telltale did not rise.


Everything I've read says that pressure should be regulated to 60 PSI
or less, I am guessing since I did not experience a rise in pressure
when the water heater cycled that I don't have a BFP on the main water
line (actually, the weird thing is I don't even know if I have a
meter, I can't see one unless it is buried underground) so "by the
book" I should install a pressure reducer set for 60 PSI but since a
pressure reducer would also act as a BFP I would then need to add an
expansion tank as well.


Question is, is this really necessary or is 70 PSI OK? I'm not
looking to spend a lot of money on plumbing but if the high pressure
could potentially cause an issue I guess I should take care of it.


thanks,


nate


PS - the Home Despot rant. Found a Watts brand "test gauge" at the
Despot on my way home from work (pressure gauge with telltale, screwed
into a female garden hose fitting) bought it, took it home, found that
the telltale was bent so that it didn't catch the gauge needle. Went
to a different Despot near my house, they didn't have a gauge to
exchange it. Drove back the other direction to go to the original
store, told the guy I wanted to exchange the gauge, well either he
didn't speak English well enough to understand or just didn't know
that you could do a straight exchange, so he refunded my money and I
had to buy another one, meaning I had to stand in line again for 20
minutes to check out... grr... probably wasted a good two hours on
this whole exercise. And then I had to run out again to get matches
(see my other post from this morning) so I didn't even get home until
close to 9 PM. I'm really starting to get sick of plumbing stuff.


I was lucky enough to drop mine, whereupon the glass just popped out
so I could twiddle the needles by hand and jam the glass back on.



You should have a pressure reducing valve on your main water line
where it enters your house. Usually shaped somewhat like a bell.
Tnere is a screw in top that will increase/decrease the pressure.
Unfortunately I don't remember which direction you need to go. Maybe
someone else remembers. Try only one quarter or one half revolutions
at a time.

Hi,
T&P valve works on temperwature and pressure. Pressure is one of two
factors. Don't keep the temperqture too high for safety and like that
T&P valve problem. My house has a water pressure gauge and regulator.
The pressure is set at 60 psi. In my memory at several different houses
I had custom built, never had T&P valve problem.

I think the original problem was simply a bad T&P valve. I've had a cup
under the overflow pipe (never did properly route it to the sink,
although that's on The List...) and the gauge on the drain valve ever
since I fixed the drain valve (I think that was Tuesday?) and the cup is
bone dry and the telltale is at about 81 PSI. So I guess I don't have
any problems at this time, well, other than the toilet that makes a
horrible noise while it refills which I'm sure is completely unrelated
and I can fix that.

I was told that there is no pressure reducing valve supplied by the city
with the meter, and I sure can't find one inside the house anywhere.

nate

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