I'd like to lower the water pressure. I understand the pressure valve
has to be screwed 'out' as opposed to (the expected in) to lower the
water pressure??

And there are 2 nuts on the pressure valves stem. Not sure why there are
2.?? I want to lower it because ever since I had a frozen meter replaced
and the kid upped my pressure for me, I'm getting a little
(intermittent) noise feedback through the line when nothing is running.

It's almost like a faint knocking (not water hammer). And the meter
spins just a bit at the same time. (but again nothing in running-toilet
is not even self adjusting)

I think he may have upped it too much as it didn't make any noise
before and the home is new.

CP

On May 20, 10:52 am, (Charles Pisano) wrote:
I'd like to lower the water pressure. I understand the pressure valve
has to be screwed 'out' as opposed to (the expected in) to lower the
water pressure??

And there are 2 nuts on the pressure valves stem. Not sure why there are
2.?? I want to lower it because ever since I had a frozen meter replaced
and the kid upped my pressure for me, I'm getting a little
(intermittent) noise feedback through the line when nothing is running.

It's almost like a faint knocking (not water hammer). And the meter
spins just a bit at the same time. (but again nothing in running-toilet
is not even self adjusting)

I think he may have upped it too much as it didn't make any noise
before and the home is new.

CP


Rather than focusing on the pressure, I'd be looking for a leak. The
meter can't be spinning unless water is going somewhere. And if you
have a slow leak, it's not unusual to have some noise in the pipes
associated with the leak. When my water heater sprang a slow leak, I
woke up in the middle of the night from kind of a strange buzzing
sound.

I'd start by checking all the toilets.

Charles Pisano wrote:
I'd like to lower the water pressure. I understand the pressure valve
has to be screwed 'out' as opposed to (the expected in) to lower the
water pressure??

And there are 2 nuts on the pressure valves stem. Not sure why there are
2.?? I want to lower it because ever since I had a frozen meter replaced
and the kid upped my pressure for me, I'm getting a little
(intermittent) noise feedback through the line when nothing is running.

It's almost like a faint knocking (not water hammer). And the meter
spins just a bit at the same time. (but again nothing in running-toilet
is not even self adjusting)

I think he may have upped it too much as it didn't make any noise
before and the home is new.

CP

Hi,
You may have a leak. Meter should never show spin unless water is being
used. My house running pressure is at 60.

No sign of a leak anywhere. But I did observe it a little better just
now. And the meter has one of those spinning indicators that tell you if
water is moving through the system.

Ant it goes backwards and THEN forwards when the sound happens and
nothing is running. There is a check valve in line 'after the regulator
and meter. Actually it says 'dual check no. 7' on it. Could that be bad
and allowing water to go back and forth through the meter causing this
noise?

Recently the meter was replaced (froze and leaked) and the pressure reg.
also because pieces from the meter got into it. The check valve is after
the press. reg.

wrote:
On May 20, 10:52 am, (Charles Pisano) wrote:
I'd like to lower the water pressure. I understand the pressure valve
has to be screwed 'out' as opposed to (the expected in) to lower the
water pressure??

And there are 2 nuts on the pressure valves stem.

snip

The inner nut is a locking or jam nut to keep the stem from turning.
Loosening it several turns will allow the adjusting stem (screw) to be
turned for adjustment of pressure. The locking nut then should be
snugged down tight to hold the setting.




Rather than focusing on the pressure, I'd be looking for a leak.

snip

I'd start by checking all the toilets.

Excellent advice. Look for telltale sounds and water ripples in the
bowl as evidence of leaking flapper valves. If you find none, then set
your pressure the scientific way: go to a hardware or farm supply
store and buy a decent pressure gauge, the 0 - 100 PSI type. Cobble
together an adapter for the gauge which will attach to a hose bib or
your water heater drain. Typically this will be a female hose repair
end, a 1/4" NPT female to 1/2" hose barb connector, a short length of
1/2" hose, and a couple of hose clamps. Screw the gauge into the hose
barb adapter, the barb into the hose and the repair end into the hose.
Secure with hose clamps, attach to your outdoor hose bib (sillcock,
whatever) and open the tap. Check the pressure and if it's around
45-50 PSI you are average. Much more than that and adjustment might be
a good idea. HTH

Joe

wrote:
On May 20, 10:52 am, (Charles Pisano) wrote:
I'd like to lower the water pressure. I understand the pressure valve
has to be screwed 'out' as opposed to (the expected in) to lower the
water pressure??

And there are 2 nuts on the pressure valves stem.

snip

The inner nut is a locking or jam nut to keep the stem from turning.
Loosening it several turns will allow the adjusting stem (screw) to be
turned for adjustment of pressure. The locking nut then should be
snugged down tight to hold the setting.




Rather than focusing on the pressure, I'd be looking for a leak.

snip

I'd start by checking all the toilets.

Excellent advice. Look for telltale sounds and water ripples in the
bowl as evidence of leaking flapper valves. If you find none, then set
your pressure the scientific way: go to a hardware or farm supply
store and buy a decent pressure gauge, the 0 - 100 PSI type. Cobble
together an adapter for the gauge which will attach to a hose bib or
your water heater drain. Typically this will be a female hose repair
end, a 1/4" NPT female to 1/2" hose barb connector, a short length of
1/2" hose, and a couple of hose clamps. Screw the gauge into the hose
barb adapter, the barb into the hose and the repair end into the hose.
Secure with hose clamps, attach to your outdoor hose bib (sillcock,
whatever) and open the tap. Check the pressure and if it's around
45-50 PSI you are average. Much more than that and adjustment might be
a good idea. HTH

Joe

That faint knocking may be faint water hammer.
Tough to diagnose sounds over the 'net.

What is your current water pressure?
Why do you want to lower it?

Lowering it will help any water hammer proportionately, and is kind of a
brute force method to solving water hammer, not a real solution.
--
------
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family's Life.
The Solution is so simple--and inexpensive!

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs

"Charles Pisano" wrote in message
...
I'd like to lower the water pressure. I understand the pressure valve
has to be screwed 'out' as opposed to (the expected in) to lower the
water pressure??

And there are 2 nuts on the pressure valves stem. Not sure why there are
2.?? I want to lower it because ever since I had a frozen meter replaced
and the kid upped my pressure for me, I'm getting a little
(intermittent) noise feedback through the line when nothing is running.

It's almost like a faint knocking (not water hammer). And the meter
spins just a bit at the same time. (but again nothing in running-toilet
is not even self adjusting)

I think he may have upped it too much as it didn't make any noise
before and the home is new.

CP

snip

I'd start by checking all the toilets.

Excellent advice. Look for telltale sounds and water ripples in the
bowl as evidence of leaking flapper valves.

(snip)

Also try food coloring in tank to find flapper leak. I did not know I
had a slooooow flapper leak until I had to replace the inlet valve, and
changed from old-style "ball and arm" to newer "ball" slides up and
down pipe style. Old unit apparently would refill noiselessly, new style
sounded like a regular flush when it decided to refill from leak !!!

--reed

Screwing the pressure adjustment valve OUT lowers it ... do I have that
right?

I just did that and the noise appears to be gone. I think the kid
cranked up the pressre too much. The house is new, so I don't expect any
leaks at the toilets etc.

The clicking I heard seemed to be a check valve that was directly
'after' the meter and pressur valve. I was not nearly as loud right next
to it as it was after it was magnified by the copper pipes and traveled
upstairs.

Now, I don't hear it. But the pressure apperars to be the same. I
turned the valve to the left, which to me would INCREASE the pressure.
But I was told this is actually the opposite effect in the case of these
valvles...(?)
Thanks again..
CP

Regulators deliver MORE gas/water/whatever when you turn them
clockwise (IN).

Regulators deliver LESS when they are screwed OUT.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Charles Pisano" wrote in message
...
Screwing the pressure adjustment valve OUT lowers it ... do I
have that
right?

I just did that and the noise appears to be gone. I think the
kid
cranked up the pressre too much. The house is new, so I don't
expect any
leaks at the toilets etc.

The clicking I heard seemed to be a check valve that was
directly
'after' the meter and pressur valve. I was not nearly as loud
right next
to it as it was after it was magnified by the copper pipes and
traveled
upstairs.

Now, I don't hear it. But the pressure apperars to be the same.
I
turned the valve to the left, which to me would INCREASE the
pressure.
But I was told this is actually the opposite effect in the case
of these
valvles...(?)
Thanks again..
CP

On Sun, 20 May 2007 21:26:20 -0500, DanG wrote:


Regulators deliver MORE gas/water/whatever when you turn them
clockwise (IN).

Regulators deliver LESS when they are screwed OUT.

Or they do the opposite. It depends on the make and model.

"Charles Pisano" wrote in message
...
Screwing the pressure adjustment valve OUT lowers it ... do I have that
right?

I just did that and the noise appears to be gone. I think the kid
cranked up the pressre too much. The house is new, so I don't expect any
leaks at the toilets etc.

Get a water pressure gauge from the local hardware store ($10) and screw it
onto a faucet or hose bibb. It should be between 50-80 psi.

On May 20, 8:07 pm, (Charles Pisano) wrote:
Screwing the pressure adjustment valve OUT lowers it ... do I have that
right?

For most common ones, that is correct. It's just a spring loading
screw and tightening the screw compresses the spring, making more
resistance against the opening of the valve, hence raising the
pressure -- and, vice versa.

I just did that and the noise appears to be gone. I think the kid
cranked up the pressre too much. The house is new, so I don't expect any
leaks at the toilets etc.

New doesn't preclude leaks from either early failures or faulty
installation(s). If you have, indeed, had excessively high pressure,
that could be a cause as well. Don't rule it out arbirarily until
confirm it is really true.

The clicking I heard seemed to be a check valve that was directly
'after' the meter and pressur valve. I was not nearly as loud right next
to it as it was after it was magnified by the copper pipes and traveled
upstairs.

Very difficult to isolate sounds in systems -- as you noted, they can
be amplified or attenuated and hard to tell. The stethescope trick of
a screwdriver or similar on the pipe and to the ear used judiciously
can sometimes help locate the source.

Now, I don't hear it. But the pressure apperars to be the same. I
turned the valve to the left, which to me would INCREASE the pressure.
But I was told this is actually the opposite effect in the case of these
valvles...(?)

See above explanation...it certainly doesn't seem backwards to me. I
don't know how you're thinking the device is made to work, but "righty-
tighty" for more pressure is quite logical in my mind. Someone
mentioned other designs and I suppose that certainly could be so, but
I've never seen it in a common plumbing pressure regulator (reducing
valve).

As someone else noted, the best thing other than check assiduously for
leaks is to either get a plumber to test the pressure if you're
uncomfortable with the thought of doing it or go get a gauge and test
it yourself. It's not that hard and if it really is excessively high
you will suffer continuously w/ early failures of toilet valves,
dishwasher and washing machine metering valves, etc., etc., ...

It's good now. I was able to turn it out 3 or 4 turns and still have
good pressure. I know it's not too high now. And that took care of the
noise.

Thanks for the help..