I have an exterior front door that needs replacing.

The former owner put a kick plate on a steel door. That means rust.

I need to replace the door, but frankly I do not want to, nor do I feel it
is necessary to shell out about 2.5K to replace a door and two sidelights.

It seems to me that an 80x36 door is an 80x36 door, and I should be able to
go get one.

Is it a scam that the local hardware stores and local contracters are trying
to tell me that i need to replace the entire unit?

Seems like a steel door is about $140, but perhaps there is not enough
margin on that to make it worth while, so they push replacing the entire
unit.

Can someone shed some light on this?

NOTE: House is 21yrs old.

If I do need to replace the entire unit, why isn't a door a door?

Thanks,

Bob

In article LVUOi.5838$j14.5827@trnddc06, "Trevor Retsnef" wrote:
I have an exterior front door that needs replacing.

The former owner put a kick plate on a steel door. That means rust.

I need to replace the door, but frankly I do not want to, nor do I feel it
is necessary to shell out about 2.5K to replace a door and two sidelights.

It seems to me that an 80x36 door is an 80x36 door, and I should be able to
go get one.

Is it a scam that the local hardware stores and local contracters are trying
to tell me that i need to replace the entire unit?

Maybe, maybe not -- but consider that doors are sold by *nominal*, not actual,
sizes, and one manufacturer's 80x36 door may not be exactly the same size as
another's. This isn't an issue with wood doors, because they can be easily
trimmed to fit. Metal doors, on the other hand, need to be pretty much an
exact fit.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

A door is a door is a door.

Is it a residential metal metal door?
What brand?
Are the hinges set in wood or steel?
What size butt hinges are they? Do they use #10 or #12 screws or
are they wood screws?
What height are the strike(s) for latch and deadbolt?
Is yours a 1 3/8 door or an 1 3/4 door?
Are you planning to reuse your hardware?
Were you going to drill your own holes?
Are there borrowed lite(s) in the door?

Unless you have something quite strange and elaborate I doubt
anyone quoted $2500. Be aware some doors cost well over $1000
without hardware. Make sure you are comparing apples and apples.
I had some pewter faced, walnut trimmed doors that were over $3000
back in the late 70's.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Trevor Retsnef" wrote in message
news:LVUOi.5838$j14.5827@trnddc06...
I have an exterior front door that needs replacing.

The former owner put a kick plate on a steel door. That means
rust.

I need to replace the door, but frankly I do not want to, nor do
I feel it is necessary to shell out about 2.5K to replace a door
and two sidelights.

It seems to me that an 80x36 door is an 80x36 door, and I should
be able to go get one.

Is it a scam that the local hardware stores and local
contracters are trying to tell me that i need to replace the
entire unit?

Seems like a steel door is about $140, but perhaps there is not
enough margin on that to make it worth while, so they push
replacing the entire unit.

Can someone shed some light on this?

NOTE: House is 21yrs old.

If I do need to replace the entire unit, why isn't a door a
door?

Thanks,

Bob

On Tue, 9 Oct 2007 19:48:05 -0500, DanG wrote:


A door is a door is a door.

except when it is ajar.

"Trevor Retsnef" wrote in message
Is it a scam that the local hardware stores and local contracters are
trying to tell me that i need to replace the entire unit?

Seems like a steel door is about $140, but perhaps there is not enough
margin on that to make it worth while, so they push replacing the entire
unit.

If I do need to replace the entire unit, why isn't a door a door?

Manufacturers can place hinges differently so one brand may or may not be an
exact fit. If you can find the same brand you have a better shot at just
replacing the door. You also have to find a dealer willing to special order
just the door. In this day of pre-hung units, that is generally the easy
way to do an upgrade.

Trevor Retsnef wrote:
I have an exterior front door that needs replacing.

The former owner put a kick plate on a steel door. That means rust.

Remove the kick-plate, fill the screw holes, sand down the door. Take door
to auto painting shop. You're out for $50.00.

Replace the entire door, including frame, yourself for $200.00.


If I do need to replace the entire unit, why isn't a door a door?

Thanks,

Bob

On Oct 10, 12:36 am, "Thurman H." wrote:
Thurman H. wrote:
Factory units have a threshold, which run the entire width
of the unit, including the sidelights.

I meant to say sill, which runs the entire width.

Also, the rough opening will be too small to fit another frame, inside
the existing framework of a factory mulled unit.

Seems high. To a bunch of do it yourselfers! Maybe.

But I wouldn't blame a contractor etc. quoting a steep figure. Not
knowing what they might run into, perhaps needing to order and then
waiting for a special door with all the considerations mentioned;
maybe several visits to the site and quite a few hours of work.
Especially if the rough opening and/or door unit turn out to be an
awkward or non standard size. Which may not be known until door/unit
is taken out of the rough opening?

Now; an ingenious handyman working on his own house may be able to
come up with an alternative that reuses the existing door, because we
know it already fits the opening, the hinges fit properly and work
etc.

As an example; example during the summer a few years ago I took out
the six foot wide double sliding glass door unit in back of house. And
replaced some rotted wood parts of the box, and unexpectedly a small
section of some adjacent house framing. Then reassembled and
reinstalled the whole unit; also replacing such things as corroded
screws with stainless steel ones, adding flashing to divert water and
melting snow and so forth.

The cost was quite low, mainly some 2 by 8 wood and misc. Also some
wood we had on hand. etc. It took several days living with a hole in
the back of the house, covered by some flapping plastic. But the
labour was my own so the cost was low. To have brought in a contractor
or supply house installer could IMHO have easily cost several hundred
dollars for labour alone. The only help needed occasionally was from a
relative to lift the actual aluminum framed doors into place; four of
them, each with a single heavy glass.

So suggestions that you carefully survey what the damage actually is
and then devise a plan to fix it yourself could save a significant
amount.

On other hand if you are hell bent on a new door, either now or at
some time in the near future; bite the bullet and get it done
thoroughly, totally and professionally.

"Trevor Retsnef" wrote in message
news:LVUOi.5838$j14.5827@trnddc06...
I have an exterior front door that needs replacing.

The former owner put a kick plate on a steel door. That means rust.


Could you replace it with staneless or brass kick plate?



I need to replace the door, but frankly I do not want to, nor do I feel it
is necessary to shell out about 2.5K to replace a door and two sidelights.

It seems to me that an 80x36 door is an 80x36 door, and I should be able
to go get one.

Is it a scam that the local hardware stores and local contracters are
trying to tell me that i need to replace the entire unit?

Seems like a steel door is about $140, but perhaps there is not enough
margin on that to make it worth while, so they push replacing the entire
unit.


Maybe much more labor involved with just replacing the door and not the
whole unit with side lights. And than may not look right matching the side
lights.

I wonder if you could order just the door from the original manufacture
assuming if they have the same model and style. If its me, I get a wood door
and trim it to fit. Don't know if you could trim a steel door.

2.5K isn't that much for a door with two side lights including installation.
I've see it well over 10K without installation - no idea why so much.



Can someone shed some light on this?

NOTE: House is 21yrs old.

If I do need to replace the entire unit, why isn't a door a door?

Thanks,

Bob