Hi
This is a repost with the same problem, but I'll try to dial it in a
little better.

I have a gas fireplace that is supposed to light when the light switch
is flipped to the "ON" position. It worked fine for the first 10
years.
The problem now is that it won't light when the switch is flipped. I
have to remove the lower cover and push the red ignitor button several
times.

The pilot is burning OK , actually a little high but I'll deal with
that later, and the fire burns fine if I light it with the red
ignitor.
Everyone keeps telling me that the thermocouple is bad. Well if that
were the case it shouldn't light at all,,, right?
The fire will burn, it just won't ignight with the light switch. And
if the switch were bad wouldn't that screw up the circuit and not
allow it to light at all?

After the fireplace has been burning for a while, I can flip the
switch and it will re-light. Once cold, I am back to using the red
button again.

Any suggestions?

thx
dave

Addendum:

I just read that the wall switch is supposed to be a "special"
switch, that if a regular wall switch is used they will only last4-5
years.

Any body know anything about this?

dave

I had the same problem. I fixed it by simply replacing the wall switch. Good
luck.



"dave" wrote in message
ps.com...
Hi
This is a repost with the same problem, but I'll try to dial it in a
little better.

I have a gas fireplace that is supposed to light when the light switch
is flipped to the "ON" position. It worked fine for the first 10
years.
The problem now is that it won't light when the switch is flipped. I
have to remove the lower cover and push the red ignitor button several
times.

The pilot is burning OK , actually a little high but I'll deal with
that later, and the fire burns fine if I light it with the red
ignitor.
Everyone keeps telling me that the thermocouple is bad. Well if that
were the case it shouldn't light at all,,, right?
The fire will burn, it just won't ignight with the light switch. And
if the switch were bad wouldn't that screw up the circuit and not
allow it to light at all?

After the fireplace has been burning for a while, I can flip the
switch and it will re-light. Once cold, I am back to using the red
button again.

Any suggestions?

thx
dave

yeah , your dealing with a millivolt system , to confirm the switch is bad ,
pull it out and clip a test lead between the two contacts ,
regular wall switch wont work very well

dave wrote:
Addendum:ncI just read that the wall switch is supposed to be a
"special":switch, that if a regular wall switch is used they will only
last4-50years.ooAny body know anything about this?31dave

On Oct 2, 12:28 pm, (The Freon Cowboy)
wrote:
yeah , your dealing with a millivolt system , to confirm the switch is bad ,
pull it out and clip a test lead between the two contacts ,
regular wall switch wont work very well

dave wrote:
Addendum:ncI just read that the wall switch is supposed to be a

"special":switch, that if a regular wall switch is used they will only
last4-50years.ooAny body know anything about this?31dave


Where can I pick up a switch that is more approperiate? Wouldn't have
a clue as to what I need.

fireplace store ? Google?


dave wrote:
On Oct 2, 12:28 pm, (The Freon Cowboy)

I have a gas fireplace that is supposed to light when the light switch is
flipped to the "ON" position. It worked fine for the first 10
years. The problem now is that it won't light when the switch is flipped.

I had the same problem..I disconnected the wires both in the switch and in
the FP and rubbed them back to BRIGHT copper with some fine 400
sandpaper, then reconnected and tightened down terminal screws firmly..
That worked for me

eeps telling me that the thermocouple is bad. Well if that were the case
it shouldn't light at all,,, right?

Right, if the pilot light is burning, the thermocouple is OK

dave writes:

I just read that the wall switch is supposed to be a "special"
switch, that if a regular wall switch is used they will only last4-5
years.

Any body know anything about this?

The problem is likely that the switch switches power from the
thermocouple, not building AC. This is nice because the fireplace
switch will work even when the building power is out. But the
thermocouple puts out only a few millivolts, so the current flow through
the switch is only milliamps, and most switches are not designed for
that.

In "normal" switches, there is enough current to get a bit of arcing on
open and close, and that keeps the switch contacts clean. This doesn't
work when the current is milliamps. For this purpose, you need a switch
with gold contacts (which don't oxidize), or one where the contacts
mechanically wipe past each other each time the switch is operated.

Dave

Dave Martindale wrote:
snip
In "normal" switches, there is enough current to get a bit of arcing on
open and close, and that keeps the switch contacts clean. This doesn't
work when the current is milliamps. For this purpose, you need a switch
with gold contacts (which don't oxidize), or one where the contacts
mechanically wipe past each other each time the switch is operated.

Fascinating. Would a mercury ("Quiet") switch be a suitable
replacement, then?

PB

Plague Boy writes:
Dave Martindale wrote:
snip
In "normal" switches, there is enough current to get a bit of arcing on
open and close, and that keeps the switch contacts clean. This doesn't
work when the current is milliamps. For this purpose, you need a switch
with gold contacts (which don't oxidize), or one where the contacts
mechanically wipe past each other each time the switch is operated.

Fascinating. Would a mercury ("Quiet") switch be a suitable
replacement, then?

That sounds plausible, though I've never heard of one being used in that
application. Probably worth a try.

Dave

dave wrote:
Hi
This is a repost with the same problem, but I'll try to dial it in a
little better.

I have a gas fireplace that is supposed to light when the light switch
is flipped to the "ON" position. It worked fine for the first 10
years.
The problem now is that it won't light when the switch is flipped. I
have to remove the lower cover and push the red ignitor button several
times.

The pilot is burning OK , actually a little high but I'll deal with
that later, and the fire burns fine if I light it with the red
ignitor.
Everyone keeps telling me that the thermocouple is bad. Well if that
were the case it shouldn't light at all,,, right?
The fire will burn, it just won't ignight with the light switch. And
if the switch were bad wouldn't that screw up the circuit and not
allow it to light at all?

After the fireplace has been burning for a while, I can flip the
switch and it will re-light. Once cold, I am back to using the red
button again.

Any suggestions?

thx
dave

Hi,
The wall switch is dealing with very low voltage which means slightest
of resistance will affect the circuit it is handling. Just replace tiwh
wall switch. Best one might be a hospital grade one. In more than 10
years between two fire places, I had to reeplace the switch just once.