Hi all - I have a series of questions related to plumbing as result of
getting involved with the rennovations the girlfriend is undertaking.
I recently relocated a laundry room to the basement from the main
floor with the help of the group (thank you).

1. As part of the reno she is redoing the kitchen which involes
relocating the sink and the dishwasher.

I now have the upstairs opened up to see what appears to me to be a
rather convoluted way of running the plumbing. But I am not a plumber
and maybe it has a very good reason for being that way - or maybe
not. Before proceeding to basically relocating what is there, I
thought I'd better find out if it is correct in the first place!

Here is a diagram at: http://www3.sympatico.ca/cill/plumb.jpg

2. To relocate the kitchen sink, the water pipes and drain are smack
dab behind a pile of air conditioning/forced air heating venting in
the basement. Rather than try to adjust copper piping back there, I
saw recently on a home show that people are using flexible plastic
piping for water these days? If so, can it be mated to existing
copper, is it 'durable' , and do they happen to make some flex
equivalent for drain piping? Does anyone have any experieince good or
bad with it?

3. The microwave is an over-the-stove type that acts a vent for an
electric stove beneath it. It has to be moved a few feet over and of
course that effects the venting. To my great dismay, I found out that
the venting just drops down between the walls and vents into the
basement. To me, this seems a no-no.

So - I also assume that it would not be a good idea to vent it into
the vent stack, but maybe try to run a separate vent ouside either
thru the basement wall below, or up thru the roof beside the existing
plumbing vent.

I apologize if these are rather inexperienced questions, but I would
rather appear stupid in advance of doing all of this as opposed to
after the fact. (or maybe both! lol)

TIA for any and all advice...

wrote in message
..
I recently relocated a laundry room to the basement from the main
floor with the help of the group (thank you).

You must be young. When you get older you'll think you made a dumb move with
all the steps to carry laundry.



Before proceeding to basically relocating what is there, I
thought I'd better find out if it is correct in the first place!

Here is a diagram at: http://www3.sympatico.ca/cill/plumb.jpg

Looks workable


2. To relocate the kitchen sink, the water pipes and drain are smack
dab behind a pile of air conditioning/forced air heating venting in
the basement. Rather than try to adjust copper piping back there, I
saw recently on a home show that people are using flexible plastic
piping for water these days? If so, can it be mated to existing
copper, is it 'durable' , and do they happen to make some flex
equivalent for drain piping? Does anyone have any experieince good or
bad with it?

It is PEX. Many homes are now being build with it. PEX had been around for
many years and is used extensivly in Europe. Makes your siduation much
easier. I don't know of any drain lines though. In my las house, I used a
section of rubber hose to replace a tricky section and it lasted for many
years.


3. The microwave is an over-the-stove type that acts a vent for an
electric stove beneath it. It has to be moved a few feet over and of
course that effects the venting. To my great dismay, I found out that
the venting just drops down between the walls and vents into the
basement. To me, this seems a no-no.

Yes, it should go outside. Is that possible?


So - I also assume that it would not be a good idea to vent it into
the vent stack,

That would be illegal too

You don't show a p trap on the washing machine drain. You don't
show any vent piping on the basement usage. The vent for the
kitchen sink should be above flood rim I've not seen a 2 pipe
system like you have drawn. I have seen an oversized loop vent,
but I'm not sure that is what you are showing.

Pex piping for water is quite viable. The tools and fittings are
quite expensive for limited remodel use. Look into Oetiker
fittings and tool.

The microwave should never have vented down. The venting needs to
go up, as little horizontal run as possible, stay within the
length limits of the fan (including turns), the discharge needs to
be 10 feet away from HVAC intake air.

I hope some others can give even better information.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi all - I have a series of questions related to plumbing as
result of
getting involved with the rennovations the girlfriend is
undertaking.
I recently relocated a laundry room to the basement from the
main
floor with the help of the group (thank you).

1. As part of the reno she is redoing the kitchen which involes
relocating the sink and the dishwasher.

I now have the upstairs opened up to see what appears to me to
be a
rather convoluted way of running the plumbing. But I am not a
plumber
and maybe it has a very good reason for being that way - or
maybe
not. Before proceeding to basically relocating what is there, I
thought I'd better find out if it is correct in the first place!

Here is a diagram at: http://www3.sympatico.ca/cill/plumb.jpg

2. To relocate the kitchen sink, the water pipes and drain are
smack
dab behind a pile of air conditioning/forced air heating venting
in
the basement. Rather than try to adjust copper piping back
there, I
saw recently on a home show that people are using flexible
plastic
piping for water these days? If so, can it be mated to existing
copper, is it 'durable' , and do they happen to make some flex
equivalent for drain piping? Does anyone have any experieince
good or
bad with it?

3. The microwave is an over-the-stove type that acts a vent for
an
electric stove beneath it. It has to be moved a few feet over
and of
course that effects the venting. To my great dismay, I found out
that
the venting just drops down between the walls and vents into the
basement. To me, this seems a no-no.

So - I also assume that it would not be a good idea to vent it
into
the vent stack, but maybe try to run a separate vent ouside
either
thru the basement wall below, or up thru the roof beside the
existing
plumbing vent.

I apologize if these are rather inexperienced questions, but I
would
rather appear stupid in advance of doing all of this as opposed
to
after the fact. (or maybe both! lol)

TIA for any and all advice...

On Sep 30, 9:40 am, "DanG" wrote:
You don't show a p trap on the washing machine drain. You don't
show any vent piping on the basement usage. The vent for the
kitchen sink should be above flood rim I've not seen a 2 pipe
system like you have drawn. I have seen an oversized loop vent,
but I'm not sure that is what you are showing.

Pex piping for water is quite viable. The tools and fittings are
quite expensive for limited remodel use. Look into Oetiker
fittings and tool.

The microwave should never have vented down. The venting needs to
go up, as little horizontal run as possible, stay within the
length limits of the fan (including turns), the discharge needs to
be 10 feet away from HVAC intake air.

I hope some others can give even better information.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)


There is a P trap on the washing machine drain, I omitted it on the
drawing - thanks.

Would not one of those vent stacks act as a vent for the basement?

Above the flood rim? What does that mean? The lip of the sink? The
vent goes right to the roof....

It is going to be tough to vent that micro methinks....

For the microwave venting, the first question is does it sit on an
outside wall? If Yes then your in luck. Just vent it out straight from
the back of the unit. If not, you can go through the roof.
Whatever you, make sure your stove sits between 2 wall studs if
possible so there will be no obstructions for the ductwork.
Thats the dilemma I had. When I gutted my kitchen, I found that the
new location for my stove had a stud in the way for a vent. My
original design had 15" cabinets on either side of the stove, but I
changed them, shifting everything over 3"( 12" cabinet on one side,
18" cabinet on the other) so my stove can be in the middle of the
studs. Just a suggestion if you run into the same problem.