I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

On Sep 11, 10:38?pm, Puddin' Man wrote:
I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

any copper wire.

why not run 2 wires from existing switch and use a different switch
install in convient location

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not
replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Anything will work.
Stranded will be easiest because of all the surface area.

On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 19:46:22 -0700, "
wrote:

any copper wire.

why not run 2 wires from existing switch and use a different switch
install in convient location

Those little switches that clamp onto lamp cord are nice. I"m sure
they can be soldered on. I paint two parts of the white dial red so I
can tell when the switch is on. I usually use nail polish. It has
it's own brush.

In article ,
Puddin' Man wrote:

I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Thx,
Puddin'


The easiest thing would be tinned buss wire. That's solid copper wire
that's already been coated with solder. Available in various gauges. 22
gauge would be about right for what you're doing. Otherwise, any clean,
shiny copper wire and you can tin it yourself.

Soldering is easy if you know how, not if you don't. Surfaces must be
clean and shiny and the soldering iron tip must be clean and shiny with
a fresh tinning of solder. Liquid flux (non-corrosive electronics flux)
is essential to de-oxidize the surfaces and help the solder to flow. The
amount of flux in "flux-cored" solder is insufficient. Add a drop of
pure stuff at each connection.

Solder is not hot-melt glue. You can't just melt it with the iron and
smear it on the joint. It penetrates the metals being joined at the
molecular level. Both (or all) of the pieces being joined must be above
the melting point of the solder. Holding the soldering pencil tip at the
correct angle to the components will ensure sufficient heat transfer.

Solder will flow effortlessly into and around the joint if the surfaces
are hot, clean, and coated with flux. Otherwise, it will just gob up on
the tip of the iron.

"mm" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 19:46:22 -0700, "
wrote:

any copper wire.

why not run 2 wires from existing switch and use a different switch
install in convient location

Those little switches that clamp onto lamp cord are nice. I"m sure
they can be soldered on. I paint two parts of the white dial red so I
can tell when the switch is on. I usually use nail polish. It has
it's own brush.

I put one of those on a lamp for a friends mother. After months of use it quit
working. Taking it apart, I found that it had been internal arcing where it made
a poor connection to the wire. It could have started a fire. That's the last
time I use one of those.

Bob

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
Soldering is easy if you know how, not if you don't. Surfaces must be
clean and shiny and the soldering iron tip must be clean and shiny with
a fresh tinning of solder. Liquid flux (non-corrosive electronics flux)
is essential to de-oxidize the surfaces and help the solder to flow. The
amount of flux in "flux-cored" solder is insufficient.

I've rarely need other than flux core solder for electrical work.

Bob

In article ,
"Bob F" wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
Soldering is easy if you know how, not if you don't. Surfaces must be
clean and shiny and the soldering iron tip must be clean and shiny with
a fresh tinning of solder. Liquid flux (non-corrosive electronics flux)
is essential to de-oxidize the surfaces and help the solder to flow. The
amount of flux in "flux-cored" solder is insufficient.

I've rarely need other than flux core solder for electrical work.

Bob

Yeah, I disagree with many on that score. I still maintain that the
difference in ease and quality of soldering with and without the
addition of a drop of auxiliary flux is generally pretty astounding.

Smitty Two writes:

Yeah, I disagree with many on that score. I still maintain that the
difference in ease and quality of soldering with and without the
addition of a drop of auxiliary flux is generally pretty astounding.

I've found it depends a lot on how clean the surfaces being soldered
are. Soldering relatively new components onto a circuit board that has
been pretinned, or is *freshly* cleaned bare copper, needs nothing more
than flux-cored solder most of the time.

On the other hand, equipment that's a couple of decades old has oxidized
surfaces everywhere, and a bunch of mechanical cleaning plus extra flux
is often needed to get a good joint. I have a bottle of rosin flux
dissolved in alcohol that I paint on as needed. You can also get flux
in little pens with felt tips that look like magic markers.

Dave

On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:38:34 -0500, Puddin' Man wrote:

I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller



Find a buddy who knows how to solder and ask for lessons. What you are
wanting to do is a 5-10 minute task tops.

Puddin' Man wrote:
I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not
replaceable). It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?


Why the jumper? Just heat one of the existing connections until the solder
melts, pull the wire loose, then solder the loose wire to the other switch
terminal.

On Tue, 11 Sep 2007 21:38:34 -0500, Puddin' Man wrote:



I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

google is your friend.

so is the sci.electronics.repair FAQ.

Can't emphasize enough to use only solder flux rated for electronic
equipment. The solder flux in the solder is corrosive and if the wrong flux
is used will turn your electronic equipment into a bunch of green crude.
Look for the words: Rosin flux or electronic flux

Using plumbing flux is a definite no-no.


"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not
replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

On Wed, 12 Sep 2007 07:06:59 -0500, "HeyBub" wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not
replaceable). It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?


Why the jumper? Just heat one of the existing connections until the solder
melts, pull the wire loose, then solder the loose wire to the other switch
terminal.

It's one of those push-button switches. All enclosed, and mounted
to a little PCB, which has 2 solder points for switch current.
'Tis them that I will jump.

P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

In article ,
Puddin' Man wrote:

On Wed, 12 Sep 2007 07:06:59 -0500, "HeyBub" wrote:

Puddin' Man wrote:
I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not
replaceable). It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?


Why the jumper? Just heat one of the existing connections until the solder
melts, pull the wire loose, then solder the loose wire to the other switch
terminal.

It's one of those push-button switches. All enclosed, and mounted
to a little PCB, which has 2 solder points for switch current.
'Tis them that I will jump.

P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

And then my suggestion to use liquid flux makes even more sense, because
you can leave the switch where it is, and simply drop the jumper in
there, using the solder that's already holding the switch. The liquid
flux lets you reflow the joint, adding the jumper, with no additional
solder.

Puddin' Man wrote:
Why the jumper? Just heat one of the existing connections until the
solder melts, pull the wire loose, then solder the loose wire to the
other switch terminal.

It's one of those push-button switches. All enclosed, and mounted
to a little PCB, which has 2 solder points for switch current.
'Tis them that I will jump.


Ah, one of those new-fangled electronic gadgets.

On Wed, 12 Sep 2007 09:19:41 -0500, "jmagerl" wrote:

Can't emphasize enough to use only solder flux rated for electronic
equipment. The solder flux in the solder is corrosive and if the wrong flux
is used will turn your electronic equipment into a bunch of green crude.
Look for the words: Rosin flux or electronic flux

What I got is an ancient Radio Shack cheapo soldering kit, including
solder. I've used it maybe once every 4 years to solder a new battery
into a personal trimmer. Solder joints look OK over time.

Using plumbing flux is a definite no-no.

Check.

Thx.
P

"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
.. .

I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not
replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller


"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

Note-- you're soldering the connection, not the soldering iron. But
the suggestion to find someone who has more than five minutes worth of
experience soldering is a good one, because if you drip solder onto
the circuit board you might ruin the entire unit, among other possible
mistakes.

Shaun Eli
www.BrainChampagne.com
Brain Champagne: Clever Comedy for Smart Minds (sm)

Do NOT buy one of those Radio Shack cold soldering irons. They are crap.


"Puddin' Man" wrote in message
...

I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not
replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Thx,
Puddin'

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller

"HeyBub" wrote in
:

Puddin' Man wrote:
Why the jumper? Just heat one of the existing connections until the
solder melts, pull the wire loose, then solder the loose wire to the
other switch terminal.

It's one of those push-button switches. All enclosed, and mounted
to a little PCB, which has 2 solder points for switch current.
'Tis them that I will jump.


Ah, one of those new-fangled electronic gadgets.




I was kinda thinking one of those As Seen on TV "Clappers" :-)

On Sep 11, 10:38 pm, Puddin' Man wrote:
I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not replaceable).
It won't power.

What make/model/year? What style switch -- pushbotton, toggle
on toggle off?

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Copper. Stranded solders fastest.

How many amps will be passing through the jumper?

On Sep 12, 7:59 pm, "Art" wrote:
Do NOT buy one of those Radio Shack cold soldering irons. They are crap.

The free wire stripper wasn't too bad.

The iron wasn't total crap. It actually gave me a joint in under
four
minutes, never mind that with a $10 pencil-style iron, the same joint
would have taken me four seconds.

On Wed, 12 Sep 2007 19:40:25 -0700, Father Haskell wrote:

On Sep 11, 10:38 pm, Puddin' Man wrote:
I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not replaceable).
It won't power.

What make/model/year? What style switch -- pushbotton, toggle
on toggle off?

Technics SA-R210. Pushbutton, soldered to PCB. Toggles.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Copper. Stranded solders fastest.

What I used.

How many amps will be passing through the jumper?

Garden-variety output, I'd guess 4 A. max.

P

"Mit der Dummheit kaempfen Goetter selbst vergebens!"
-Friedrich Schiller