View Single Post
  #5   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
Smitty Two Smitty Two is offline
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,040
Default Dumb soldering Q

In article ,
Puddin' Man wrote:

I've got an old stereo receiver with a broken main switch (not replaceable).
It won't power.

I can solder a jumper across 2 contacts on the switch board (I think).
Then add an in-line switch to the power cord.

Don't know much about soldering ...

What should I use for a jumper? Copper? Other material? Stranded?
Non-stranded?

Thx,
Puddin'


The easiest thing would be tinned buss wire. That's solid copper wire
that's already been coated with solder. Available in various gauges. 22
gauge would be about right for what you're doing. Otherwise, any clean,
shiny copper wire and you can tin it yourself.

Soldering is easy if you know how, not if you don't. Surfaces must be
clean and shiny and the soldering iron tip must be clean and shiny with
a fresh tinning of solder. Liquid flux (non-corrosive electronics flux)
is essential to de-oxidize the surfaces and help the solder to flow. The
amount of flux in "flux-cored" solder is insufficient. Add a drop of
pure stuff at each connection.

Solder is not hot-melt glue. You can't just melt it with the iron and
smear it on the joint. It penetrates the metals being joined at the
molecular level. Both (or all) of the pieces being joined must be above
the melting point of the solder. Holding the soldering pencil tip at the
correct angle to the components will ensure sufficient heat transfer.

Solder will flow effortlessly into and around the joint if the surfaces
are hot, clean, and coated with flux. Otherwise, it will just gob up on
the tip of the iron.