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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have 2
Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.
I called the A/C company that put the units in during construction.
Here is what happened:

Visit 1: (last week): the tech tells me the system is low on freon
either because it was never filled properly or there is a leak
(they'll test for the leak if it gets low again and the problem
resurfaces). I received a bill for $90 and was told the unit would
catch up that night then should be fine. The tech noted that air was
now coming out 16 degrees cooler than when going in so I should now be
fine.

Visit 2: after I called and advised there was no change the boss sent
out his "best diagnostician" who "made some adjustments" with the air
handler which is up in the attic and noted we now had 18 degrees of
cooling and the unit would be fine once it catches up tonight, but
again there was no change.

Visit 3 (today): the boss decided to send a team to figure it out, the
2 original techs plus one more. They each seemed to have their own
diagnosis of the problem based on what my wife had overheard
(unfortunately I wasn't around the whole time). They had simply told
me the plan was to gather info and have Bryant diagnose the system.
Now I'm told the reversing valve needs to be replaced to the sum of
$720 even though the unit and part is under warranty (I'm told it's a
lot of labor to replace it).

I called another company who will come in the morning for a free
estimate/2nd opinion. They told me the problem didn't sound like
something caused by a bad reversing valve but they'd come out and
see.
I'm looking for any advice on how to proceed with and what questions I
should ask, as I'm looking at a lot of money and not confident these
guys know what the real problem is.

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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

I guess I should have posted this on alt.hvac. which I'll do.

On Aug 31, 5:55 pm, wrote:
We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have 2
Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.
I called the A/C company that put the units in during construction.
Here is what happened:

Visit 1: (last week): the tech tells me the system is low on freon
either because it was never filled properly or there is a leak
(they'll test for the leak if it gets low again and the problem
resurfaces). I received a bill for $90 and was told the unit would
catch up that night then should be fine. The tech noted that air was
now coming out 16 degrees cooler than when going in so I should now be
fine.

Visit 2: after I called and advised there was no change the boss sent
out his "best diagnostician" who "made some adjustments" with the air
handler which is up in the attic and noted we now had 18 degrees of
cooling and the unit would be fine once it catches up tonight, but
again there was no change.

Visit 3 (today): the boss decided to send a team to figure it out, the
2 original techs plus one more. They each seemed to have their own
diagnosis of the problem based on what my wife had overheard
(unfortunately I wasn't around the whole time). They had simply told
me the plan was to gather info and have Bryant diagnose the system.
Now I'm told the reversing valve needs to be replaced to the sum of
$720 even though the unit and part is under warranty (I'm told it's a
lot of labor to replace it).

I called another company who will come in the morning for a free
estimate/2nd opinion. They told me the problem didn't sound like
something caused by a bad reversing valve but they'd come out and
see.
I'm looking for any advice on how to proceed with and what questions I
should ask, as I'm looking at a lot of money and not confident these
guys know what the real problem is.



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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

wrote:
I guess I should have posted this on alt.hvac. which I'll do.

On Aug 31, 5:55 pm, wrote:
We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have
2 Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.
I called the A/C company that put the units in during construction.
Here is what happened:

Visit 1: (last week): the tech tells me the system is low on freon
either because it was never filled properly or there is a leak
(they'll test for the leak if it gets low again and the problem
resurfaces). I received a bill for $90 and was told the unit would
catch up that night then should be fine. The tech noted that air was
now coming out 16 degrees cooler than when going in so I should now
be fine.

Visit 2: after I called and advised there was no change the boss sent
out his "best diagnostician" who "made some adjustments" with the air
handler which is up in the attic and noted we now had 18 degrees of
cooling and the unit would be fine once it catches up tonight, but
again there was no change.

Visit 3 (today): the boss decided to send a team to figure it out,
the 2 original techs plus one more. They each seemed to have their
own diagnosis of the problem based on what my wife had overheard
(unfortunately I wasn't around the whole time). They had simply told
me the plan was to gather info and have Bryant diagnose the system.
Now I'm told the reversing valve needs to be replaced to the sum of
$720 even though the unit and part is under warranty (I'm told it's a
lot of labor to replace it).

I called another company who will come in the morning for a free
estimate/2nd opinion. They told me the problem didn't sound like
something caused by a bad reversing valve but they'd come out and
see.
I'm looking for any advice on how to proceed with and what questions
I should ask, as I'm looking at a lot of money and not confident
these guys know what the real problem is.


It could be anything but you would think that the problem would be under
warranty.

Allot of the times you can play with the paper work to get it under warranty
if it that close.

Let us know what they find.

--
Moe Jones
HVAC Service Technician
Energy Equalizers Inc.
Houston, Texas
www.EnergyEqualizers.com


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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


wrote in message
ps.com...
I guess I should have posted this on alt.hvac. which I'll do.


Ohhhh that should be fun. Be sure to report back and tell us what you
learned.


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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

The four way reversing valve is energised on cooling
and de-energised on heating. Set the thermostat UP
to 30C and the valve should de-energise and HEAT
Set the thermostat DOWN to 15C and the valve
should energise and COOL

wrote in message
oups.com...
We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have 2
Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.
I called the A/C company that put the units in during construction.
Here is what happened:

Visit 1: (last week): the tech tells me the system is low on freon
either because it was never filled properly or there is a leak
(they'll test for the leak if it gets low again and the problem
resurfaces). I received a bill for $90 and was told the unit would
catch up that night then should be fine. The tech noted that air was
now coming out 16 degrees cooler than when going in so I should now be
fine.

Visit 2: after I called and advised there was no change the boss sent
out his "best diagnostician" who "made some adjustments" with the air
handler which is up in the attic and noted we now had 18 degrees of
cooling and the unit would be fine once it catches up tonight, but
again there was no change.

Visit 3 (today): the boss decided to send a team to figure it out, the
2 original techs plus one more. They each seemed to have their own
diagnosis of the problem based on what my wife had overheard
(unfortunately I wasn't around the whole time). They had simply told
me the plan was to gather info and have Bryant diagnose the system.
Now I'm told the reversing valve needs to be replaced to the sum of
$720 even though the unit and part is under warranty (I'm told it's a
lot of labor to replace it).

I called another company who will come in the morning for a free
estimate/2nd opinion. They told me the problem didn't sound like
something caused by a bad reversing valve but they'd come out and
see.
I'm looking for any advice on how to proceed with and what questions I
should ask, as I'm looking at a lot of money and not confident these
guys know what the real problem is.





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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

The Four Way Reversing Valve is a sealed PILOT operated
valve with four ports. The two centre ports are connected
to the Accumulator and Discharge and the adjoining ports if
the Valve is sealing correctly should have temperatures equal
to the temperature of a centre port. As an example on cooling
with the Solenoid Valve energised the port connected to the
outdoor coil should have a temperature equal to the discharge
port on Heating with the solenoid valve de-energised it should
have a temperature equal to the accumulator port. Cycling the
internal slide valve backwards and forwards by switching from
heating to cooling will usually Flush out contamination and seal
the valve.

wrote in message
oups.com...
We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have 2
Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.
I called the A/C company that put the units in during construction.
Here is what happened:

Visit 1: (last week): the tech tells me the system is low on freon
either because it was never filled properly or there is a leak
(they'll test for the leak if it gets low again and the problem
resurfaces). I received a bill for $90 and was told the unit would
catch up that night then should be fine. The tech noted that air was
now coming out 16 degrees cooler than when going in so I should now be
fine.

Visit 2: after I called and advised there was no change the boss sent
out his "best diagnostician" who "made some adjustments" with the air
handler which is up in the attic and noted we now had 18 degrees of
cooling and the unit would be fine once it catches up tonight, but
again there was no change.

Visit 3 (today): the boss decided to send a team to figure it out, the
2 original techs plus one more. They each seemed to have their own
diagnosis of the problem based on what my wife had overheard
(unfortunately I wasn't around the whole time). They had simply told
me the plan was to gather info and have Bryant diagnose the system.
Now I'm told the reversing valve needs to be replaced to the sum of
$720 even though the unit and part is under warranty (I'm told it's a
lot of labor to replace it).

I called another company who will come in the morning for a free
estimate/2nd opinion. They told me the problem didn't sound like
something caused by a bad reversing valve but they'd come out and
see.
I'm looking for any advice on how to proceed with and what questions I
should ask, as I'm looking at a lot of money and not confident these
guys know what the real problem is.



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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Moe Jones" wrote in message
...
wrote:
I guess I should have posted this on alt.hvac. which I'll do.

On Aug 31, 5:55 pm, wrote:
We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have
2 Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.
I called the A/C company that put the units in during construction.
Here is what happened:

Visit 1: (last week): the tech tells me the system is low on freon
either because it was never filled properly or there is a leak
(they'll test for the leak if it gets low again and the problem
resurfaces). I received a bill for $90 and was told the unit would
catch up that night then should be fine. The tech noted that air was
now coming out 16 degrees cooler than when going in so I should now
be fine.

Visit 2: after I called and advised there was no change the boss sent
out his "best diagnostician" who "made some adjustments" with the air
handler which is up in the attic and noted we now had 18 degrees of
cooling and the unit would be fine once it catches up tonight, but
again there was no change.

Visit 3 (today): the boss decided to send a team to figure it out,
the 2 original techs plus one more. They each seemed to have their
own diagnosis of the problem based on what my wife had overheard
(unfortunately I wasn't around the whole time). They had simply told
me the plan was to gather info and have Bryant diagnose the system.
Now I'm told the reversing valve needs to be replaced to the sum of
$720 even though the unit and part is under warranty (I'm told it's a
lot of labor to replace it).

I called another company who will come in the morning for a free
estimate/2nd opinion. They told me the problem didn't sound like
something caused by a bad reversing valve but they'd come out and
see.
I'm looking for any advice on how to proceed with and what questions
I should ask, as I'm looking at a lot of money and not confident
these guys know what the real problem is.


It could be anything but you would think that the problem would be under
warranty.

Allot of the times you can play with the paper work to get it under

warranty
if it that close.



Most manufactures have a 5 yr parts warranty.
And most reputable HVAC companies will take care of the installation costs
when it's just over a yr old.

But, then again, the company isn't reputable or they wouldn't be relying on
Bryant to diagnose a unit they installed!!!!


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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:g92Ci.1453$3Y1.1256
@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:


wrote in message
ps.com...
I guess I should have posted this on alt.hvac. which I'll do.


Ohhhh that should be fun. Be sure to report back and tell us what you
learned.

Maybe he already knows how to ignore abusive folks?



Like yourself, who offers the OP no useful information.


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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

wrote in message
oups.com...
We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have 2
Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.


1) Ask the installing company for a copy of the heat load calculation that
was done when the 3 ton unit was sized for the space that is being air
conditioned. That's the only way you'll know if it was correctly sized for
the application.

2) What is the return-side temperature at the air handler? If it is more
than a few degrees over the air temperature measured at the interior return
grill(s), you have a duct leak on the return side.

3) Has the supply plenum and duct work been checked for leaks?

4) Any competent contractor can take a eight or so readings (of pressures,
temperatures) and determine what the problem is without any guessing.

5) With an 18 degree delta-T I seriously doubt that you have a defective
reversing valve. Don't let the contractor hack into your system unless
Bryant confirms that this is the cause of your problems.

Good luck - it sounds like you will need it.


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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 14:55:21 -0700, wrote:

We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have 2
Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.
I called the A/C company that put the units in during construction.
Here is what happened:

Visit 1: (last week): the tech tells me the system is low on freon
either because it was never filled properly or there is a leak
(they'll test for the leak if it gets low again and the problem
resurfaces). I received a bill for $90 and was told the unit would
catch up that night then should be fine. The tech noted that air was
now coming out 16 degrees cooler than when going in so I should now be
fine.

Visit 2: after I called and advised there was no change the boss sent
out his "best diagnostician" who "made some adjustments" with the air
handler which is up in the attic and noted we now had 18 degrees of
cooling and the unit would be fine once it catches up tonight, but
again there was no change.

Visit 3 (today): the boss decided to send a team to figure it out, the
2 original techs plus one more. They each seemed to have their own
diagnosis of the problem based on what my wife had overheard
(unfortunately I wasn't around the whole time). They had simply told
me the plan was to gather info and have Bryant diagnose the system.
Now I'm told the reversing valve needs to be replaced to the sum of
$720 even though the unit and part is under warranty (I'm told it's a
lot of labor to replace it).

I called another company who will come in the morning for a free
estimate/2nd opinion. They told me the problem didn't sound like
something caused by a bad reversing valve but they'd come out and
see.
I'm looking for any advice on how to proceed with and what questions I
should ask, as I'm looking at a lot of money and not confident these
guys know what the real problem is.



If you have an 18 degree temp difference then you have about a one
percent chance that there is a problem with the reversing valve. You
are getting the run around or some stupid techs or both.

Some things to have them check:

Are the return and supply ducts sized correctly? If they say they are
then make them show you there manual D calculations. Is the return
grill sized correctly? Are the ducts sealed and free of kinks? Is the
return duct connected to a plenum or just hacked into the air handler?
Is the line set free of kinks? Are the filters clean? Did the
installing company do a load calculation or just take a swag at it? If
they say they did a load calculation then make them show it to you. Is
the system charged correctly? Is the indoor blower set to the correct
speed tap? Is the evaporator coil restricted with loose insulation
etc.? Is the condenser restricted or blocked by anything? Is the
condenser placed under any structures like a deck etc.?


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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2796a$46d947f0$9440c41e$20135
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:g92Ci.1453$3Y1.1256
@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:


wrote in message
ps.com...
I guess I should have posted this on alt.hvac. which I'll do.


Ohhhh that should be fun. Be sure to report back and tell us what

you
learned.

Maybe he already knows how to ignore abusive folks?



Like yourself, who offers the OP no useful information.

I did offer the OP useful information. The information is: posters in
alt.hvac are generally abusive in nature. You are a prime example.

So now you are wrong one more time. Will you ever learn?



I already know that you're an idiot.
Looking for a cookie?


  #12   Report Post  
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No Name
 
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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:e70bb$46da2c0c$9440c41e$24038
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2796a$46d947f0$9440c41e$20135
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in news:g92Ci.1453$3Y1.1256
@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:


wrote in message
ps.com...
I guess I should have posted this on alt.hvac. which I'll do.


Ohhhh that should be fun. Be sure to report back and tell us what

you
learned.

Maybe he already knows how to ignore abusive folks?


Like yourself, who offers the OP no useful information.

I did offer the OP useful information. The information is: posters in
alt.hvac are generally abusive in nature. You are a prime example.

So now you are wrong one more time. Will you ever learn?



I already know that you're an idiot.


Wait right here. Someone will come along and explain it to you.



No explanation needed, you're an idiot.


  #13   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
No Name
 
Posts: n/a
Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:49c74$46da44a4$9440c41e$30781
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:e70bb$46da2c0c$9440c41e$24038
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:2796a$46d947f0$9440c41e$20135
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in

news:g92Ci.1453$3Y1.1256
@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:


wrote in message
ps.com...
I guess I should have posted this on alt.hvac. which I'll do.


Ohhhh that should be fun. Be sure to report back and tell us

what
you
learned.

Maybe he already knows how to ignore abusive folks?


Like yourself, who offers the OP no useful information.

I did offer the OP useful information. The information is: posters

in
alt.hvac are generally abusive in nature. You are a prime example.

So now you are wrong one more time. Will you ever learn?


I already know that you're an idiot.

Wait right here. Someone will come along and explain it to you.



No explanation needed, you're an idiot.

Sounds about right coming from someone who believes that local code can

only
be more restrictive than model code. Just keep saying it and maybe some

day
it will be true. GOOD LUCK.



Are you looking for your donut?


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Posts: 9
Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

I understand your posting that is good chance of having
bad/leaky reversing valve and I am agreeing with you
in addition to that possible bad compressor but neither one of
us can say that unless you are there with gauges to check it out.
what puzzle me (and I am asking ) if you have any problem with
air supply/moving would it be greater temperature difference
instead of smaller because coil/evaporator would be working at
lower temperatures unless you are taking air from outside
instead of recirculating air from inside, hmm that is possibility
that fresh air damper is "oversized/stuck open or ?".
Tony
Note: kjpro I do not need your ****

oldacdude wrote in message
...
On Fri, 31 Aug 2007 14:55:21 -0700, wrote:

We completed construction on our home in Florida in 7/2006. We have 2
Bryant central air units (one 3 ton unit and one 4 ton unit). Last
week I noticed the 3ton unit couldn't keep up with the cooling during
the afternoon hours.
I called the A/C company that put the units in during construction.
Here is what happened:

Visit 1: (last week): the tech tells me the system is low on freon
either because it was never filled properly or there is a leak
(they'll test for the leak if it gets low again and the problem
resurfaces). I received a bill for $90 and was told the unit would
catch up that night then should be fine. The tech noted that air was
now coming out 16 degrees cooler than when going in so I should now be
fine.

Visit 2: after I called and advised there was no change the boss sent
out his "best diagnostician" who "made some adjustments" with the air
handler which is up in the attic and noted we now had 18 degrees of
cooling and the unit would be fine once it catches up tonight, but
again there was no change.

Visit 3 (today): the boss decided to send a team to figure it out, the
2 original techs plus one more. They each seemed to have their own
diagnosis of the problem based on what my wife had overheard
(unfortunately I wasn't around the whole time). They had simply told
me the plan was to gather info and have Bryant diagnose the system.
Now I'm told the reversing valve needs to be replaced to the sum of
$720 even though the unit and part is under warranty (I'm told it's a
lot of labor to replace it).

I called another company who will come in the morning for a free
estimate/2nd opinion. They told me the problem didn't sound like
something caused by a bad reversing valve but they'd come out and
see.
I'm looking for any advice on how to proceed with and what questions I
should ask, as I'm looking at a lot of money and not confident these
guys know what the real problem is.



If you have an 18 degree temp difference then you have about a one
percent chance that there is a problem with the reversing valve. You
are getting the run around or some stupid techs or both.

Some things to have them check:

Are the return and supply ducts sized correctly? If they say they are
then make them show you there manual D calculations. Is the return
grill sized correctly? Are the ducts sealed and free of kinks? Is the
return duct connected to a plenum or just hacked into the air handler?
Is the line set free of kinks? Are the filters clean? Did the
installing company do a load calculation or just take a swag at it? If
they say they did a load calculation then make them show it to you. Is
the system charged correctly? Is the indoor blower set to the correct
speed tap? Is the evaporator coil restricted with loose insulation
etc.? Is the condenser restricted or blocked by anything? Is the
condenser placed under any structures like a deck etc.?



  #15   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
No Name
 
Posts: n/a
Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in

:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:49c74$46da44a4$9440c41e$30781
@STARBAND.NET:



Sounds about right coming from someone who believes that local code can

only
be more restrictive than model code. Just keep saying it and maybe some

day
it will be true. GOOD LUCK.



Are you looking for your donut?

Typical nonsense response from a psychotic individual. Get help now.



Makes more sense then your inaccurate bull****.




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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

Thanks for all the info, I'll gather whatever info I can as I've had
different diagnoses, false fixes, and opinions from 5 techs now. All
of the return filters and vents I have replaced and seem ok. Here's
the latest:
-I spoke with the owner of the company that installed and has been
servicing the unit. He says one of his techs felt the TXV valve was
bad but they worked with Bryant over the phone who said the reversing
valve was bad based on the data given. He said it would be close to
$1000 to replace both and I should call Bryant and bitch to see what
they'd do since the unit is only 14 months old.
-I called a new hvac company for a 2nd opininon. They sent a tech
out. He measured the refrigerant psi for the lines attached to the
condenser. He noted the pressure was climbing from 200 to almost 400
psi, at which point the release valve kicked in and it would soon
start all over again. He had eventually gotten the pressure stable
and said he believed there was contamination in the line and the issue
was now fixed (although I found no change later on). This is the info
he gave me on what he did:

-found system overcharged
-found system heat pressure raising to 450psi from 210
-pumped system down, inspected piston at liquid line at condenser &
screen at condenser. Found a small chunk of possibly brazing rod
-flushed nitrogen through lineset to make sure there was good flow
-pulled system into deep vacuum
-recovered some of refrigerant to proper charge
-system working properly
-suction & liquid pressure steady
- 10 degree superheat LO 80
-12 degree subcooling Hi 200
-18 degree delta T - compressor amps 10.1

I called the company back and they sent out another guy. He energized/
de-energized the reversing valve using heat and cooling but it did not
help.
He had been looking at the air handler and says there's no filter
drier installed and now the system needs to be cleaned out, txv
replaced, filter drier installed and we mostly likely don't have a
filter drier on our other system (although that one's been functioning
ok).
I looked at the documentation for this unit and the filter drier is
listed under optional equipment but another page says it is suggested
in all field-connected split-system heat pumps. Can the absence of
this filter really cause the issue? If so, is this a major mis-step
of the installers to not put it in?

  #17   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 79
Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

wrote:
Thanks for all the info, I'll gather whatever info I can as I've had
different diagnoses, false fixes, and opinions from 5 techs now. All
of the return filters and vents I have replaced and seem ok. Here's
the latest:
-I spoke with the owner of the company that installed and has been
servicing the unit. He says one of his techs felt the TXV valve was
bad but they worked with Bryant over the phone who said the reversing
valve was bad based on the data given. He said it would be close to
$1000 to replace both and I should call Bryant and bitch to see what
they'd do since the unit is only 14 months old.
-I called a new hvac company for a 2nd opininon. They sent a tech
out. He measured the refrigerant psi for the lines attached to the
condenser. He noted the pressure was climbing from 200 to almost 400
psi, at which point the release valve kicked in and it would soon
start all over again. He had eventually gotten the pressure stable
and said he believed there was contamination in the line and the issue
was now fixed (although I found no change later on). This is the info
he gave me on what he did:

-found system overcharged
-found system heat pressure raising to 450psi from 210
-pumped system down, inspected piston at liquid line at condenser &
screen at condenser. Found a small chunk of possibly brazing rod
-flushed nitrogen through lineset to make sure there was good flow
-pulled system into deep vacuum
-recovered some of refrigerant to proper charge
-system working properly
-suction & liquid pressure steady
- 10 degree superheat LO 80
-12 degree subcooling Hi 200
-18 degree delta T - compressor amps 10.1

I called the company back and they sent out another guy. He energized/
de-energized the reversing valve using heat and cooling but it did not
help.
He had been looking at the air handler and says there's no filter
drier installed and now the system needs to be cleaned out, txv
replaced, filter drier installed and we mostly likely don't have a
filter drier on our other system (although that one's been functioning
ok).
I looked at the documentation for this unit and the filter drier is
listed under optional equipment but another page says it is suggested
in all field-connected split-system heat pumps. Can the absence of
this filter really cause the issue? If so, is this a major mis-step
of the installers to not put it in?


Many condensing units have a small factory installed liquid line
dryer inside the housing. On any of the systems me and my guys
install or disconnect for repair, we in install a replaceable
liquid line dryer and sight glass with a moisture indicator.
Using flare fittings and sealer called Leak Lock makes it easy to
replace the dryer or attach fittings for blowing out the lines or
pressure testing. Another product I often use on sticky valves
is Supco88, it's like Liquid Wrench for refrigeration and AC units.

http://www.supco.com/Chemicals%20pg7.htm

Injecting Supco88 into your system could help free up the reversing
valve, expansion valve or clear a clogged port if that what is causing
the problem.

[8~{} Uncle Monster
  #18   Report Post  
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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:17c5b$46dc4925$9440c41e$10980
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in

:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:49c74$46da44a4$9440c41e$30781
@STARBAND.NET:


Sounds about right coming from someone who believes that local code

can
only
be more restrictive than model code. Just keep saying it and maybe

some
day
it will be true. GOOD LUCK.


Are you looking for your donut?

Typical nonsense response from a psychotic individual. Get help now.



Makes more sense then your inaccurate bull****.

Only to you...



And anyone with a brain...


  #19   Report Post  
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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:62a75$46dcc3e7$9440c41e$23205
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:17c5b$46dc4925$9440c41e$10980
@STARBAND.NET:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:49c74$46da44a4$9440c41e$30781
@STARBAND.NET:


Sounds about right coming from someone who believes that local

code
can
only
be more restrictive than model code. Just keep saying it and

maybe
some
day
it will be true. GOOD LUCK.


Are you looking for your donut?

Typical nonsense response from a psychotic individual. Get help now.


Makes more sense then your inaccurate bull****.

Only to you...



And anyone with a brain...

Anyone with a brain see that you are by nature an abusive and antagonistic
personality with an obsessive-compulsive disorder. GOOD LUCK.



Are you still looking for a treat?


  #20   Report Post  
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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 12:49:08 -0500, kjpro wrote:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in

:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:49c74$46da44a4$9440c41e$30781
@STARBAND.NET:


Sounds about right coming from someone who believes that local code

can
only
be more restrictive than model code. Just keep saying it and maybe

some
day
it will be true. GOOD LUCK.


Are you looking for your donut?

Typical nonsense response from a psychotic individual. Get help now.



Makes more sense then your inaccurate bull****.


Your broken record "inaccurate bull****" crap makes no sense whatsoever.



It means that your brother posts **** that's not correct.
Like that better?




  #21   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 112
Default Bad A/C reversing valve?

wrote in message
ups.com...
Thanks for all the info, I'll gather whatever info I can as I've had
different diagnoses, false fixes, and opinions from 5 techs now. All
of the return filters and vents I have replaced and seem ok. Here's
the latest:
-I spoke with the owner of the company that installed and has been
servicing the unit. He says one of his techs felt the TXV valve was
bad but they worked with Bryant over the phone who said the reversing
valve was bad based on the data given. He said it would be close to
$1000 to replace both and I should call Bryant and bitch to see what
they'd do since the unit is only 14 months old.


The tech "felt" the TXV was bad? That's a sure sign of a hack. And without
the data Bryant's telephone diagnosis isn't any better.

-I called a new hvac company for a 2nd opininon. They sent a tech
out. He measured the refrigerant psi for the lines attached to the
condenser. He noted the pressure was climbing from 200 to almost 400
psi, at which point the release valve kicked in and it would soon
start all over again. He had eventually gotten the pressure stable
and said he believed there was contamination in the line and the issue
was now fixed (although I found no change later on). This is the info
he gave me on what he did:

-found system overcharged


Yep, your system was hacked.

-found system heat pressure raising to 450psi from 210
-pumped system down, inspected piston at liquid line at condenser &
screen at condenser. Found a small chunk of possibly brazing rod
-flushed nitrogen through lineset to make sure there was good flow
-pulled system into deep vacuum
-recovered some of refrigerant to proper charge
-system working properly
-suction & liquid pressure steady
- 10 degree superheat LO 80
-12 degree subcooling Hi 200
-18 degree delta T - compressor amps 10.1


How do these numbers compare to the specs for this system?

I called the company back and they sent out another guy. He energized/
de-energized the reversing valve using heat and cooling but it did not
help.


That's because the reversing valve isn't the problem.

He had been looking at the air handler and says there's no filter
drier installed and now the system needs to be cleaned out, txv
replaced, filter drier installed and we mostly likely don't have a
filter drier on our other system (although that one's been functioning
ok).


With an 18 degree delta T I'd say the TXV is working OK.

I looked at the documentation for this unit and the filter drier is
listed under optional equipment but another page says it is suggested
in all field-connected split-system heat pumps. Can the absence of
this filter really cause the issue? If so, is this a major mis-step
of the installers to not put it in?


As we know, the original installer is a hack. However, the absence of a
filter dryer in a properly designed and installed split system isn't fatal
in and of itself.

Did you ever get a look at the heat load calculation that the installing
company did? Oh yes, that's right... they are a hack. How about the return
and supply plenum temperatures? You still might have a return-side duct
leak.

The most recent tech seemed to have the most scientific approach to
diagnosis; maybe his company can do a heat load calculation for you and tell
you if your system is correctly designed.



  #22   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 23:40:07 -0500, kjblows puked:


"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 12:49:08 -0500, kjpro wrote:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in
:


"Clark" wrote in message
...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in news:49c74$46da44a4$9440c41e$30781
@STARBAND.NET:


Sounds about right coming from someone who believes that local

code
can
only
be more restrictive than model code. Just keep saying it and

maybe
some
day
it will be true. GOOD LUCK.


Are you looking for your donut?

Typical nonsense response from a psychotic individual. Get help now.


Makes more sense then your inaccurate bull****.
Your broken record "inaccurate bull****" crap makes no sense
whatsoever. I'll give you due credit though for being the pedantic
****tard you are. Regardless of the thousands of your ilk that exist on
Usenet, I think you deserve a little recognition. Your broken record
"inaccurate bull****" crap makes no sense whatsoever.



It means that your brother posts **** that's not correct.


It means that you are the one and only with that opinion (prove

otherwise.)


You didn't see where Zpr posted facts regarding the sweating LL?????

Believe what you want, you and your brother know jack **** about HVAC.

Next time, I suggest that you take some classes and don't rely on
alt.home.repair for your training/facts.


  #23   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
...


More lies...


  #24   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
...


More lies...


  #25   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
...


More lies...




  #26   Report Post  
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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...

Putz


  #27   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
...


Putz


  #28   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
...

Putz


  #29   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


  #30   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
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Puutz




  #31   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


  #34   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
...


Putz


  #35   Report Post  
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Default Bad A/C reversing valve?


"Clark" wrote in message
...


Putz




  #36   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


  #37   Report Post  
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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


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"Clark" wrote in message
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Putz


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