Hello all. My city just put in a sidewalk at the corner of my road
and when construction was finished, they planted grass, I'm assuming
rye grass from all I've been told. It's on a steep hill, and they
covered the seed with hay, and now 2 weeks later the grass is growing
strong. My property is included on this corner, and the last couple
of times I've mowed the grass I left that be. How long should I let
it grow before mowing it, and what do I do about the hay? Do I rake
it? Will that pull out juvenile grass roots?

Thanks all. I have to admit I was worried because this was the first
year I hired a lawn company to take care of my weeds, and I was
afraid that after the work done and grass planted, that this would
introduce new weeds, and I've paid a lot to get rid of them.

--
Cheryl

"Cheryl" wrote in message
...

Hello all. My city just put in a sidewalk at the corner of my road
and when construction was finished, they planted grass, I'm assuming
rye grass from all I've been told. It's on a steep hill, and they
covered the seed with hay, and now 2 weeks later the grass is growing
strong. My property is included on this corner, and the last couple
of times I've mowed the grass I left that be. How long should I let
it grow before mowing it, and what do I do about the hay? Do I rake
it? Will that pull out juvenile grass roots?

Since it appears you are a taxpayer planning to
work on public land as a voluntary basis, if you
lived in my city, you would get advice (free) from
the city hall department that funded the seeding.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

On Aug 26, 6:58 pm, Cheryl wrote:
Hello all. My city just put in a sidewalk at the corner of my road
and when construction was finished, they planted grass, I'm assuming
rye grass from all I've been told. It's on a steep hill, and they
covered the seed with hay, and now 2 weeks later the grass is growing
strong. My property is included on this corner, and the last couple
of times I've mowed the grass I left that be. How long should I let
it grow before mowing it, and what do I do about the hay? Do I rake
it? Will that pull out juvenile grass roots?

Thanks all. I have to admit I was worried because this was the first
year I hired a lawn company to take care of my weeds, and I was
afraid that after the work done and grass planted, that this would
introduce new weeds, and I've paid a lot to get rid of them.

--
Cheryl

When its about 3 to 31/2 inchs you should mow it back to 2 1/2 to 3
and then keep it at that height, mowing about once a week, so you
don't take off more than 1/3 of the grass at a time. Mowing it will
actually speed it's growth, as there is a hormone in the leaf blade
tips that slows growth. When it's cut it will encourage the grass to
grow and spread out.

"Cheryl" wrote in message
...
Hello all. My city just put in a sidewalk at the corner of my road
and when construction was finished, they planted grass, I'm assuming
rye grass from all I've been told. It's on a steep hill, and they
covered the seed with hay, and now 2 weeks later the grass is growing
strong. My property is included on this corner, and the last couple
of times I've mowed the grass I left that be. How long should I let
it grow before mowing it, and what do I do about the hay? Do I rake
it? Will that pull out juvenile grass roots?

Thanks all. I have to admit I was worried because this was the first
year I hired a lawn company to take care of my weeds, and I was
afraid that after the work done and grass planted, that this would
introduce new weeds, and I've paid a lot to get rid of them.

--
Cheryl



Is the rye grass just a cover for REAL grass? We do that at the resort where
I work - looks great, but don't mow until the bluegrass (or whatever) has a
chance to grow from beneath the cosmetic overlay of rye grass. The straw is
to hold in moisture and hold and hide the seed from birds. If they didn't
plant any true lawn seed, now's the time - and keep it watered...
~Tom

On Mon 27 Aug 2007 12:28:17a, Gizmofiddler wrote in
alt.home.repair
.net:

Is the rye grass just a cover for REAL grass? We do that at the
resort where I work - looks great, but don't mow until the
bluegrass (or whatever) has a chance to grow from beneath the
cosmetic overlay of rye grass. The straw is to hold in moisture
and hold and hide the seed from birds. If they didn't plant any
true lawn seed, now's the time - and keep it watered...

I don't think they did, though Scott's said they would seed over it.
I can't tell if they did. Newbie homeowner, never cared about my lawn
before, but realizing the necessity of curb appeal now that selling
has slumped. I just want to be ready if I need to sell.

--
Cheryl

On Sun 26 Aug 2007 08:02:07p, wrote in alt.home.repair
oups.com:

When its about 3 to 31/2 inchs you should mow it back to 2 1/2
to 3 and then keep it at that height, mowing about once a week,
so you don't take off more than 1/3 of the grass at a time.
Mowing it will actually speed it's growth, as there is a hormone
in the leaf blade tips that slows growth. When it's cut it will
encourage the grass to grow and spread out.

Thanks. I realized that I can't mow it. It got to that height, but
the slope is too steep for my lawnmower, and I decided that I won't
get out there with a weedwacker to trim the city's mess.

--
Cheryl

Cheryl wrote:
On Sun 26 Aug 2007 08:02:07p, wrote in alt.home.repair
oups.com:

When its about 3 to 31/2 inchs you should mow it back to 2 1/2
to 3 and then keep it at that height, mowing about once a week,
so you don't take off more than 1/3 of the grass at a time.
Mowing it will actually speed it's growth, as there is a hormone
in the leaf blade tips that slows growth. When it's cut it will
encourage the grass to grow and spread out.

Thanks. I realized that I can't mow it. It got to that height, but
the slope is too steep for my lawnmower, and I decided that I won't
get out there with a weedwacker to trim the city's mess.

I've come into this thread late. Newly seeded grass is best cut using
hand shears. I don't know the area you are talking about, but good luck
to you and your knees!

"clot" wrote in message
...
Cheryl wrote:
On Sun 26 Aug 2007 08:02:07p, wrote in alt.home.repair
oups.com:

When its about 3 to 31/2 inchs you should mow it back to 2 1/2
to 3 and then keep it at that height, mowing about once a week,
so you don't take off more than 1/3 of the grass at a time.
Mowing it will actually speed it's growth, as there is a hormone
in the leaf blade tips that slows growth. When it's cut it will
encourage the grass to grow and spread out.

Thanks. I realized that I can't mow it. It got to that height, but
the slope is too steep for my lawnmower, and I decided that I won't
get out there with a weedwacker to trim the city's mess.

I've come into this thread late. Newly seeded grass is best cut using hand
shears. I don't know the area you are talking about, but good luck to you
and your knees!
Don't know about you, but I don't have enough years left to waste any of
them cutting grass with hand shears, other than maybe right up against
plants too fragile for weed-wacker. The open parts will get cut mechanically
in some fashion, or not at all.

aem sends...

"Cheryl" wrote in message
...
On Sun 26 Aug 2007 07:56:09p, Don Phillipson wrote in alt.home.repair
:

Since it appears you are a taxpayer planning to
work on public land as a voluntary basis, if you
lived in my city, you would get advice (free) from
the city hall department that funded the seeding.

What do you mean? I know it isn't technically my property, being on
the corner adjacent to my property, but do you mean I should just
leave it be? Let the city take care of it?

It may or may not be your property. Some places, the city owns the street,
some places, the lots actually run to the centerline of the platted street
(which may not be the same as the paved street), and the street is just on
an easement. Through streets and highways are usually government owned,
subdivisions are usually on easements, in my experience. Only way to know
for sure is dig out your deed and/or the subdivision plat.

But that is in surveying world- here in the real world, unless there is a
defined drainage ditch or right-of-way fence or something, adjacent property
owners are almost always expected to keep the grass mowed right up to the
curb or graveled shoulder. If they hydro-seeded, I'd just let it sit till
grass starts poking through. As the others said, you may wanna scatter some
additional higher-quality seed. Patch areas like that are usually too soft
to mow for first month anyway.

aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:
"clot" wrote in message
...
Cheryl wrote:
On Sun 26 Aug 2007 08:02:07p, wrote in alt.home.repair
oups.com:

When its about 3 to 31/2 inchs you should mow it back to 2 1/2
to 3 and then keep it at that height, mowing about once a week,
so you don't take off more than 1/3 of the grass at a time.
Mowing it will actually speed it's growth, as there is a hormone
in the leaf blade tips that slows growth. When it's cut it will
encourage the grass to grow and spread out.

Thanks. I realized that I can't mow it. It got to that height, but
the slope is too steep for my lawnmower, and I decided that I won't
get out there with a weedwacker to trim the city's mess.

I've come into this thread late. Newly seeded grass is best cut
using hand shears. I don't know the area you are talking about, but
good luck to you and your knees!
Don't know about you, but I don't have enough years left to waste any
of them cutting grass with hand shears, other than maybe right up
against plants too fragile for weed-wacker. The open parts will get
cut mechanically in some fashion, or not at all.


Ah, but; doing it yourself helps to keep you mobile, fit and active.
Using such things as weedwhackers that I do not understand fully this
side of The Pond, (I guess Strimmer), causes you to fade away