It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

On Aug 14, 11:28 pm, wrote:
It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

most likely using a varnish stain and no wiping off

I bought a new fiberglass door along with the door manufacturer's stain kit
2 years ago. When I applied the stain per their recommendation (apply, let
it sit, then wipe off residual) the door kept some of the stain. I assume it
had some type of adhesive or other binding ingredient. I would suggest you
check with the local paint experts to see what they recommend. There must be
stuff specifically formulated for doing fiberglass or other non-absorbing
surfaces.

Smarty

"beecrofter" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Aug 14, 11:28 pm, wrote:
It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

most likely using a varnish stain and no wiping off

Smarty wrote:
....
...There must be stuff specifically formulated for doing fiberglass
or other non-absorbing surfaces....

Yeah, it's called "paint"...

If OP really wants to stain it instead, see the following link

http://www.masonite.com/BUILDER/Spec...nEntryTear.pdf

--

Although it actually is "paint" the stuff sold for doing fiberglass door
staining I have seen is actually called "stain" regardless of what it
actually contains.

Smarty


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Smarty wrote:
...
...There must be stuff specifically formulated for doing fiberglass
or other non-absorbing surfaces....

Yeah, it's called "paint"...

If OP really wants to stain it instead, see the following link

http://www.masonite.com/BUILDER/Spec...nEntryTear.pdf

--

Smarty wrote:
Although it actually is "paint" the stuff sold for doing fiberglass door
staining I have seen is actually called "stain" regardless of what it
actually contains.

That was a joke...

They are heavily pigmented stains. If you'll look at the link provided,
it describes the type of stains and applications to use for the
application in exquisite detail.

--

Smarty


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Smarty wrote:
...
...There must be stuff specifically formulated for doing fiberglass
or other non-absorbing surfaces....
Yeah, it's called "paint"...

If OP really wants to stain it instead, see the following link

http://www.masonite.com/BUILDER/Spec...nEntryTear.pdf

--

Sorry if I missed the humor. I did, however, read the link you provided. The
description of what to use was limited to about a dozen words, saying either
heavily pigmented or gel stains would work.

Smarty


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Smarty wrote:
Although it actually is "paint" the stuff sold for doing fiberglass door
staining I have seen is actually called "stain" regardless of what it
actually contains.

That was a joke...

They are heavily pigmented stains. If you'll look at the link provided,
it describes the type of stains and applications to use for the
application in exquisite detail.

--

Smarty


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Smarty wrote:
...
...There must be stuff specifically formulated for doing fiberglass
or other non-absorbing surfaces....
Yeah, it's called "paint"...

If OP really wants to stain it instead, see the following link

http://www.masonite.com/BUILDER/Spec...nEntryTear.pdf

--

I gave up on minwax gel stain. Try Old Masters brand. When I searched with
google, most people found it worked well on fiberglass doors. It worked for
me when minwax would not.


wrote in message
ups.com...
It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

Smarty wrote:
Sorry if I missed the humor. I did, however, read the link you provided. The
description of what to use was limited to about a dozen words, saying either
heavily pigmented or gel stains would work.

Smarty


"dpb" wrote in message ...
Smarty wrote:
Although it actually is "paint" the stuff sold for doing fiberglass door
staining I have seen is actually called "stain" regardless of what it
actually contains.
That was a joke...

They are heavily pigmented stains. If you'll look at the link provided,
it describes the type of stains and applications to use for the
application in exquisite detail.

Along w/ a detailed instruction on applying them to fiberglass doors...

--

On Aug 14, 11:28 pm, wrote:
It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

I did this several years ago on about 15 doors. The first door I did
came out horrible. All the rest look great. The tricks I learned
quickly we

1. use a foam brush
2. don't go over areas you've already stained unless you do it within
30 seconds or so. Got to move quicky cause once it starts to dry and
you go over it, it makes a mess.
3. don't rub it off. Make sure you put it on thin with the foam
brush.

Hope that helps.

Also practice and remove, practice and remove, repeat to a small area until
you know what you are doing. But try OLd Masters gel.


wrote in message
ups.com...
On Aug 14, 11:28 pm, wrote:
It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

I did this several years ago on about 15 doors. The first door I did
came out horrible. All the rest look great. The tricks I learned
quickly we

1. use a foam brush
2. don't go over areas you've already stained unless you do it within
30 seconds or so. Got to move quicky cause once it starts to dry and
you go over it, it makes a mess.
3. don't rub it off. Make sure you put it on thin with the foam
brush.

Hope that helps.

YES! Old Masters is where it's at! I was trying to figure out which
brand Pella recommended for their doors (it was no longer on their
website.) The only thing I could think of was "Old Village."

I had to drive quite far this weekend to get it because no place in my
entire county sells that brand. Awesome product.

The only thing I can't get a straight answer on is the brush. The can
says use synthetic, other people (here and elsewhere) said foam brush
and the dealer said china bristle brush. I decided to try the natural
china bristle brush just because I prefer those when using oil based
stain, varnish and paint. It came out pretty good I must say and far
exceeded my expectations.

I'll never use another brand gel stain again.

Thanks!

On Aug 15, 1:23 pm, "Art" wrote:
I gave up on minwax gel stain. Try Old Masters brand. When I searched with
google, most people found it worked well on fiberglass doors. It worked for
me when minwax would not.

wrote in message

ups.com...

It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

See my other post. You are absolutely right about the Old Masters!
Great stuff! Thanks.

The only way something will adhere to fiberglass is to use a fiberglass
activator from a boat chandlery ( bare fiberglass, NO paint or primer on
surface) . This reacts at the molecular level with the fiberglass and must
be painted within 1 to 2 hours. Everything I am reading in this thread about
staining fiberglass is freaking this old boat builder. Polyurethane one or 2
component works well on fiberglass but stain??????? This I would have to
witness.

Suspicious old fart.

"beecrofter" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Aug 14, 11:28 pm, wrote:
It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

most likely using a varnish stain and no wiping off

The Homeowners Hub site is not a help forum.
It's an *advertising* forum that invades real
forums (like "alt.home.repair", part of
"usenet") parasitically in order to generate
free advertising for itself, which continually
advances its search engine placement, thereby
increasing its own revenue through its click-
through advertising commissions.

So the first thing you should do is write them
an email and tell them to quit spamming.

Then try to find your way here through proper
channels. Please do a google search on "Usenet"
and post the regular way.



--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"jackelch" wrote in message
roups.com...
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...or-242499-.htm

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Then try to find your way here through proper
channels. Please do a google search on "Usenet"
and post the regular way.


Google groups is a fairly easy way to get to Usenet newsgroups (but has
a fairly awful interface compared to a "newsreader").

But the person is posting to a 3 year old thread.

People using homeowners hub apparently have to fail an intelligence test.

On Nov 24, 10:14*am, bud-- wrote:
People using homeowners hub apparently have to fail an intelligence test.

It's the WebTV of the new century!

On Tuesday, August 14, 2007 at 11:28:27 PM UTC-4, wrote:
It says to put on and wipe off. But wiping off doesn't leave like a
smeared look but instead takes off the entire stain. What is the
proper technique for this - anyone know?

The trick is to apply the gel stain the same way you would apply paint. Make sure you use long smooth strokes for each section so it looks unified. Do not wipe it off or try to wipe any darker areas. Brush it so it blends, then complete a long stroke. It should look like a first coat of paint that needs a second coat. Let it dry overnight and it should have a rustic or distressed stained look. If it doesn't, then your not a good painter and you don't have the skills or understanding to be able to follow my instructions. Remember, stained wood isn't suppose to look perfect. That's what gives stained wood it's character.