What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

I've moved some of my paint into emptied plastic tubs (in my case, 2lb
protein powder tubs) for longer term storage.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
ups.com...
What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

Huh. Your storage location must be damp, and/or subject to big temp swings.
Previous owner left several partial cans, several years old, in furnace room
here, and they were still usable for touchups. I did make it a point to stir
the hell out of them, however. We talking latex or oil? IIRC, latex stores
longer without problems. I don't think a rubber mallet is tight enough- I
use whatever hammer or heavy metal object is handy, and a piece of 1x4 to
avoid dinging the metal. Maybe you are cleaning the lid TOO well, and it
isn't making a seal any more.

aem sends....

aem sends...

On Jul 22, 12:55 am, "aemeijers" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

ups.com... What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

Huh. Your storage location must be damp, and/or subject to big temp swings.

Storage is my walk-out basement workshop. Temperature swings, yes -
damp, no.

Previous owner left several partial cans, several years old, in furnace room
here, and they were still usable for touchups. I did make it a point to stir
the hell out of them, however. We talking latex or oil? IIRC, latex stores
longer without problems.

Latex

I don't think a rubber mallet is tight enough- I
use whatever hammer or heavy metal object is handy, and a piece of 1x4 to
avoid dinging the metal.

Rubber mallet seals can so that it looks like it came from the store

Maybe you are cleaning the lid TOO well, and it isn't making a seal any more.

With the folded corner of a paper towel? I gotta stop using Brawny!

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:29:55 -0700, DerbyDad03
wrote:

What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

I also scratch a line into the lid to match where the seam is on the
can, so if there are imperfections or spills in the groove, I can
match them up. I think this is more important the second time a can
is opened then the first, but I do it the first time anyhow.

Others will have more direct answers to your question.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

I guess I have a dry house. I've had paint dry out after a long time,
but I don't think I've ever had rust.

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 04:55:59 GMT, "aemeijers"
wrote:

. We talking latex or oil? IIRC, latex stores
longer without problems. I don't think a rubber mallet is tight enough- I

I didn't even notice this. I think a rubber mallet can bend the lid,
including the rim.

I just use my arm, pushing down on the heel or my hand until it moves
into the can a bit, then going to the other side, maybe 180 degrees or
maybe 3 times at 120 degrees. I move it some that way. Then I get on
my knees and put the weight of my body above my knees into it, utnil I
feel it move far enough I know it is at the bottom. At 2 or 3 places.

I have the opposite of a bottle opener, that I or someone got at a
paint shop, that one hooks onot the riim and lifts to make the rim go
down into the can, but I've never used it. I like using the heel of
my hand because it's much wider, 4 inches instead of a half inch.

use whatever hammer or heavy metal object is handy, and a piece of 1x4 to
avoid dinging the metal. Maybe you are cleaning the lid TOO well, and it
isn't making a seal any more.

aem sends....

Why not just store the cans upside down? JG


"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
ups.com...
What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 01:47:49 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 04:55:59 GMT, "aemeijers"
wrote:

. We talking latex or oil? IIRC, latex stores
longer without problems. I don't think a rubber mallet is tight enough- I

I didn't even notice this. I think a rubber mallet can bend the lid,
including the rim.

At the recommendation of my paint store, I use a small dead blow
hammer. Rubber mallets bounce.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

DerbyDad03 wrote:

What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.


Too much moisture where the paint is stored. Perhaps a plastic bag
around the can would help. I have several different products - primer,
varnish, lacquer - that I use repeatedly and they are fresh after at
least 3 years. I reseal the lid with a mallet - actually a wooden meat
tenderizer that I don't use for food - and just tap around the rim
evenly. Also, when it is opened, don't pry only one side but go around
the rim at several spots. If your storage area is damp, it might help
to wipe the rim with a light coat of oil when it is first opened.

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:29:55 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after a
project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on top.
I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the lid
seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

I've always used a combination of mm's advice (for closing the tins) and
JGS's advice about storing the tins downside up. I've kept tins of gloss
paint for several years this way and never had skin or rust.

--
Registered Linux User 413057.
Both Mandriva 2007.1 and Ubuntu 7.04
You can have it all. My empire of hurt.

Liverpool F.C.-more European Cups than all
the other English teams put together :-)

Very Simple! Store your cans UPSIDE DOWN. Eliminates O2 at the lid, no
rust, no film when you open it again (if any forms, it forms on the bottom!)
Told you it was simple.



What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can

On Jul 22, 8:58 am, curmudgeon wrote:
Very Simple! Store your cans UPSIDE DOWN. Eliminates O2 at the lid, no
rust, no film when you open it again (if any forms, it forms on the bottom!)
Told you it was simple.



What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I tried storing them upside down, but then I couldn't read the labels.
Painted a whole room the wrong color once.

Thanks all!

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I tried storing them upside down, but then I couldn't read the labels.
Painted a whole room the wrong color once.

Right! And as you painted the room, you kept the paint cans upside down
preventing you from reading the labels. Makes absolute sense.

On Jul 22, 10:32 am, "Upscale" wrote:
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

I tried storing them upside down, but then I couldn't read the labels.
Painted a whole room the wrong color once.

-- Right! And as you painted the room, you kept the paint cans upside
down
-- preventing you from reading the labels. Makes absolute sense.

Actually what really happened was that when I opened the upside down
can, all the paint spilled out. When I scooped it up and put it in
another container, there was no longer a lable for me to read. I tried
putting it back into the original upside down can, but it just kept
spilling out.

DerbyDad03 wrote:
What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

In addition to the other hints, here's one from my days in the photo
processing lab.

Half-filled bottles of chemicals reacted with the air trapped in the bottle
and decomposed, so the problem became one of removing the air. There are
probably a zillion ways to do that (use smaller bottles, replace the air
with Nitrogen, etc.). Here's what we did:

Wait for it now...

Marbles.

Yep, from a big sack, we dropped in enough marbles to raise the liquid's
level to the neck of the bottle, minimizing the trapped air.

I Googled "marbles+bulk"

Here's one seller. 1 1/16" marbles, 30 marbles per pound, 30 pounds for
$44, including shipping (that's 900 one-inch-plus marbles!).

http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/grou...5&selection=29

The marbles even come in colors so you can match your paint!

Looking at the company's home page, they've got interesting stuff:
Leather gloves, $0.99
4" saw blade for granite, $2.00
Digital multimeter, $8.38
Locking door knob sets (for your rent house), ~$3.50

DerbyDad03 wrote:
What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.


Since the problem child is latex, when sealing the can lay a layer of
plastic food wrap (aka Saran and a half-dozen other brands) across the
top surface of the paint. If it should someohw skin over, the skin will
come out with the wrap. You might also put another layer just over the
opening when sealing.

I tend to use mine up ... if I only have a half-gallon left over I'm
likely to go back over the room or whatever with an additional coat over
the parts (outside corners, near doors, etc) that are more likely to
take wear. You might also, as another poster mentioned, decant it into
smaller containers ... quart spaghettis juice jars should work just fine
and, with a small amount of foresight, be free. There -definitely- use
the cling-wrap stuff over the mouth and across the threads.

The key in any of these suggestions is to impose a barrier between the
paint and air or other contaminants.

The moisture that is causing the rust primarily comes from the paint
itself. Putting a barrier over it keeps it from losing the moisture --
and that keeps it from skinning over.

Just a guess.

Bill
--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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HeyBub wrote:

http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/grou...5&selection=29


EXCELLENT link! Can hardly wait until Charlie (woodturning) gets hold of
this one!

Bill
--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 11:34:28 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Wait for it now...

Marbles.

An old trick to varnish users.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

B A R R Y wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 11:34:28 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Wait for it now...

Marbles.

An old trick to varnish users.


I'd heard about it, but lost most of my marbles years ago. Now I know a
cheap source to get more!

Bill


--
I'm not not at the above address.
http://nmwoodworks.com


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Tested on: 7/22/2007 3:36:10 PM
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http://www.avast.com

On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 15:36:09 -0400, BillinDetroit
wrote:

B A R R Y wrote:
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 11:34:28 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Wait for it now...

Marbles.

An old trick to varnish users.


I'd heard about it, but lost most of my marbles years ago. Now I know a
cheap source to get more!

Don't forget, it also works for expensive polymerizing oils.

For latex, I buy $0.89 empty quart cans.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------

DerbyDad03 wrote in news:1185078595.245349.206720@
57g2000hsv.googlegroups.com:

What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

SNIP


Finished a tank of ArgoShield for the MIG welder today and got to
thinking.... Recommended shield gas for general purpose MIG is 80% Argon,
15% CO2, and 5% O2. Just wondering if this would be a good substitute for
the commercial O2 displacement products such as Bloxogen. When I'm at
welding supply house tomoorow I'll talk about other mixes and prices.

Jerry

--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

A Lurker wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote in news:1185078595.245349.206720@
57g2000hsv.googlegroups.com:


What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?


SNIP


Finished a tank of ArgoShield for the MIG welder today and got to
thinking.... Recommended shield gas for general purpose MIG is 80% Argon,
15% CO2, and 5% O2. Just wondering if this would be a good substitute for
the commercial O2 displacement products such as Bloxogen. When I'm at
welding supply house tomoorow I'll talk about other mixes and prices.

Jerry


Propane is heavier than air. A shot of propane from a small plumbing
torch (unlit) will displace the oxygen in the can. Without oxygen there
should be no rusting of the can or skimming of the paint.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

I don't know if this applies but here goes anyways...At work I
sometimes store oxidizing chemicals with anti-oxidation balls. They
are just hard plastic spheres that float on the liquid. I think us
plastics sells them.

Keep the air off an oxidizer and it will not oxidize...I'd guess this
applies to paint as well.

On Jul 22, 9:31 pm, Joe wrote:
I don't know if this applies but here goes anyways...At work I
sometimes store oxidizing chemicals with anti-oxidation balls. They
are just hard plastic spheres that float on the liquid. I think us
plastics sells them.

Keep the air off an oxidizer and it will not oxidize...I'd guess this
applies to paint as well.

I've got partial cans of exterior latex 20 yrs old (why?) that I put
Saran wrap over the top before I pounded the lid down and they were
still good when I opened them a few weeks ago. Plus it made them
easier to open. I did turn them upside down and shake them about once
every 5 years.

A Lurker wrote:



Finished a tank of ArgoShield for the MIG welder today and got to
thinking.... Recommended shield gas for general purpose MIG is 80%
Argon,
15% CO2, and 5% O2. Just wondering if this would be a good
substitute for
the commercial O2 displacement products such as Bloxogen. When I'm at
welding supply house tomoorow I'll talk about other mixes and prices.

An el-Cheapo propane torch.

Been using one for years.

Lew

DerbyDad03 wrote:
What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

G'day,
Whenever I buy a 4litre can of paint (water based), the first time I
open it I decant it into 1 litre plastic jars. This is of course if I'm
not going to use it all within a couple of weeks.
I find that when the next jar is opened the paint is like new.
regards
John

On Jul 22, 5:46 am, "JGS" wrote:
Why not just store the cans upside down? JG

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message

ups.com...



What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I always store my paint upside down and NEVER have a problem with
rust, gunk, "skinning" or any other problem. I use a marker to label
the side of the can (upside down) so I know which paint is for which
room without having to turn it over first to read the label. And
when I'm ready to use, I shake the can hard for a good 15 seconds
BEFORE opening it to get it mixed up. I have paint that I have re-
used for touch up years after purchase!

--Jeff

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007 21:29:55 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:

What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

When I store paint I flip the can upside down after securing the lid. I
don't have issues and my storage space IS damp.

Saran Wrap loosely across the opening then put the lid on.

--
Watch for the bounce.
If ya didn't see it, ya didn't feel it.
If ya see it, it didn't go off.
Old Air Force Munitions Saying
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
ups.com...
What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can.

Hate it when that happens

--
Watch for the bounce.
If ya didn't see it, ya didn't feel it.
If ya see it, it didn't go off.
Old Air Force Munitions Saying
"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 22, 8:58 am, curmudgeon wrote:
Very Simple! Store your cans UPSIDE DOWN. Eliminates O2 at the lid, no
rust, no film when you open it again (if any forms, it forms on the
bottom!)
Told you it was simple.



What's the best way to store that 1/2 gallon of paint left over after
a project?

I don't think I've ever opened a used can that's a few months old
without finding rust along the inside lip or a film of dry paint on
top. I am very careful about cleaning the lid and the seam where the
lid seals and making sure the can is closed tight - rubber mallet
tight.

This morning I had to strain a 1/2 gallon of Kitchen & Bath paint
because of the rust that fell in when I opened the can- Hide quoted
text -

- Show quoted text -

I tried storing them upside down, but then I couldn't read the labels.
Painted a whole room the wrong color once.

Thanks all!