And please do not do this alone. Have someone standby in case the jack
slips.

BetsyB



wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jul 10, 9:59 am, "Mike Dobony" wrote:
Okay, the mobile home NG is so dead and no answer there so here goes
here.

I have a single wide trailer that is noticeably unlevel, low on one side
at
one end, about 1/2 way down the length. I don't see why I can't level it
myself about 1/2" -1" at a time. How big of a bottle jack would I need
to
life one pillar (one support) at a time and put some shims in until it is
level, 30
ton, 50 ton? Thanks.

Mike D.

The 30 ton will do the job for you as you are only lifting a partial
load.

"betsyb" wrote in message
...


And please do not do this alone. Have someone standby in case the jack
slips.

BetsyB


if you are cribbing it properly, the most it could fall would be about 1
1/2"
& btw: a 5 ton jack would most likely suffice

On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 11:33:13 -0400, "betsyb"
wrote:



And please do not do this alone. Have someone standby in case the jack
slips.

BetsyB



He's only leveling it, not moving it. Just keep some blocking under
it at all times and if the jack slips it wont fall more than an inch
or so. I leveled my own MH. I tried a 3 ton jack and it would not
do. I found that my 10 ton worked fine, but I wanted to use 2 jacks
at once so I went and bought a 20ton. The biggest problem was the
jacks wanted to compress the soil rather than lift the house. I
finally bought a piece of 3/4" thick steel thats 2 feet square. That
worked well. A railroad tie also works. but moving that thing around
was too much work. The steel was heavy too, but much easier to move,
and also less likely to tip or lean. Forget using cement blocks under
the jack, they crush. To level it, buy yourself a water level. $20
to $25 at most home repair centers.

Note, blocking should be placed about 8 feet apart along the whole
trailer. Put an extra stack under the doors to prevent door sag.



wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 10, 9:59 am, "Mike Dobony" wrote:
Okay, the mobile home NG is so dead and no answer there so here goes
here.

I have a single wide trailer that is noticeably unlevel, low on one side
at
one end, about 1/2 way down the length. I don't see why I can't level it
myself about 1/2" -1" at a time. How big of a bottle jack would I need
to
life one pillar (one support) at a time and put some shims in until it is
level, 30
ton, 50 ton? Thanks.

Mike D.

The 30 ton will do the job for you as you are only lifting a partial
load.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 11:33:13 -0400, "betsyb"
wrote:



And please do not do this alone. Have someone standby in case the jack
slips.

BetsyB



He's only leveling it, not moving it. Just keep some blocking under
it at all times and if the jack slips it wont fall more than an inch
or so. I leveled my own MH. I tried a 3 ton jack and it would not
do. I found that my 10 ton worked fine, but I wanted to use 2 jacks
at once so I went and bought a 20ton. The biggest problem was the
jacks wanted to compress the soil rather than lift the house. I
finally bought a piece of 3/4" thick steel thats 2 feet square. That
worked well. A railroad tie also works. but moving that thing around
was too much work. The steel was heavy too, but much easier to move,
and also less likely to tip or lean. Forget using cement blocks under
the jack, they crush. To level it, buy yourself a water level. $20
to $25 at most home repair centers.

Note, blocking should be placed about 8 feet apart along the whole
trailer. Put an extra stack under the doors to prevent door sag.



Thanks. The blocks are already there and I just need to raise the one side
a little at a time. I am not going to rush it. I just need to decide what
to use as shims. Maybe good quality 1/2" OSB in 8" squares? I will
probable add an extra set of blocks at the doors.


wrote in message
roups.com...
On Jul 10, 9:59 am, "Mike Dobony" wrote:
Okay, the mobile home NG is so dead and no answer there so here goes
here.

I have a single wide trailer that is noticeably unlevel, low on one
side
at
one end, about 1/2 way down the length. I don't see why I can't level
it
myself about 1/2" -1" at a time. How big of a bottle jack would I
need
to
life one pillar (one support) at a time and put some shims in until it
is
level, 30
ton, 50 ton? Thanks.

Mike D.

The 30 ton will do the job for you as you are only lifting a partial
load.

Mike Dobony wrote:
....
...I just need to decide what
to use as shims. Maybe good quality 1/2" OSB in 8" squares? ...

Not OSB unless it is very well protected from the rain/snow/wet...

Ideal would be some steel plate in various thicknesses depending on what
you need. Make do, would be treated, but I can make whatever thickness
I want.

I don't know what a regular installer would use and I've never actually
done one, but I think OSB ain't a real good choice...

--

Just use PT 1x lumber. Pieces of 1x8 about a foot long is what I'm
visualizing.

--
Steve Barker







"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
t...

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 11:33:13 -0400, "betsyb"
wrote:



And please do not do this alone. Have someone standby in case the jack
slips.

BetsyB



He's only leveling it, not moving it. Just keep some blocking under
it at all times and if the jack slips it wont fall more than an inch
or so. I leveled my own MH. I tried a 3 ton jack and it would not
do. I found that my 10 ton worked fine, but I wanted to use 2 jacks
at once so I went and bought a 20ton. The biggest problem was the
jacks wanted to compress the soil rather than lift the house. I
finally bought a piece of 3/4" thick steel thats 2 feet square. That
worked well. A railroad tie also works. but moving that thing around
was too much work. The steel was heavy too, but much easier to move,
and also less likely to tip or lean. Forget using cement blocks under
the jack, they crush. To level it, buy yourself a water level. $20
to $25 at most home repair centers.

Note, blocking should be placed about 8 feet apart along the whole
trailer. Put an extra stack under the doors to prevent door sag.



Thanks. The blocks are already there and I just need to raise the one
side a little at a time. I am not going to rush it. I just need to
decide what to use as shims. Maybe good quality 1/2" OSB in 8" squares?
I will probable add an extra set of blocks at the doors.


wrote in message
groups.com...
On Jul 10, 9:59 am, "Mike Dobony" wrote:
Okay, the mobile home NG is so dead and no answer there so here goes
here.

I have a single wide trailer that is noticeably unlevel, low on one
side
at
one end, about 1/2 way down the length. I don't see why I can't level
it
myself about 1/2" -1" at a time. How big of a bottle jack would I
need
to
life one pillar (one support) at a time and put some shims in until it
is
level, 30
ton, 50 ton? Thanks.

Mike D.

The 30 ton will do the job for you as you are only lifting a partial
load.

"dpb" wrote in message ...
Mike Dobony wrote:
...
...I just need to decide what to use as shims. Maybe good quality 1/2"
OSB in 8" squares? ...

Not OSB unless it is very well protected from the rain/snow/wet...


I don't know. It is UNDER the trailer and has a full skirting. I never had
rain blow up under it, but only lived here a few months. My in-laws have
had a trailer for a few years and never had a problem of rain, snow wet
getting under their trailer.

Ideal would be some steel plate in various thicknesses depending on what
you need.

YIKES!!!!!!!! It is only wood on top of cinder blocks right now. I have to
look to see what kind they used.

Make do, would be treated, but I can make whatever thickness I want.

I don't know what a regular installer would use and I've never actually
done one, but I think OSB ain't a real good choice...


I never thought OSB was good for much, but termites hate the taste of the
glue used in OSB.

--

On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 01:17:53 GMT, "Mike Dobony"
wrote:
Not OSB unless it is very well protected from the rain/snow/wet...


I don't know. It is UNDER the trailer and has a full skirting. I never had
rain blow up under it, but only lived here a few months. My in-laws have
had a trailer for a few years and never had a problem of rain, snow wet
getting under their trailer.

My single guess is that you have cider shims on top of the blocks
now. Plenty of mobile homes (wheels off ?) in your area, surely would
mean a local company can level this for you.
--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

On Wed, 11 Jul 2007 16:34:54 -0700, Oren wrote:

My single guess is that you have cider shims on top of the blocks

Cedar!! (;'

--
Oren

...through the use of electrical or duct tape, achieve the configuration in the photo..

On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 21:43:03 GMT, "Mike Dobony"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 11:33:13 -0400, "betsyb"
wrote:



And please do not do this alone. Have someone standby in case the jack
slips.

BetsyB



He's only leveling it, not moving it. Just keep some blocking under
it at all times and if the jack slips it wont fall more than an inch
or so. I leveled my own MH. I tried a 3 ton jack and it would not
do. I found that my 10 ton worked fine, but I wanted to use 2 jacks
at once so I went and bought a 20ton. The biggest problem was the
jacks wanted to compress the soil rather than lift the house. I
finally bought a piece of 3/4" thick steel thats 2 feet square. That
worked well. A railroad tie also works. but moving that thing around
was too much work. The steel was heavy too, but much easier to move,
and also less likely to tip or lean. Forget using cement blocks under
the jack, they crush. To level it, buy yourself a water level. $20
to $25 at most home repair centers.

Note, blocking should be placed about 8 feet apart along the whole
trailer. Put an extra stack under the doors to prevent door sag.



Thanks. The blocks are already there and I just need to raise the one side
a little at a time. I am not going to rush it. I just need to decide what
to use as shims. Maybe good quality 1/2" OSB in 8" squares? I will
probable add an extra set of blocks at the doors.


OSB is a bad choice, Even if it dont get soaked, dampness and
humidity will make it swell and soon decompose. Just get some
pressure treated 1x8 and 2x8. (assuming the cement blocks are 8
inch). Cut the wood the same length as the blocks (or longer if you
wish). Use a 1" first, then a 2" if you need it that thick. If you
need to add a quarter inch or some oddball amount, then use treated
plywood, or strips of steel, or just plane the PT wood to fit.
Hardwood like Oak would work well too, and if you are in a termite
area, dunk the pieces in drain oil first.