I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

On Sun, 01 Jul 2007 02:12:26 -0700, wrote:

I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

Man has been making and adjusting gates for several thousand years.
Surely you can come up with something.

wrote:
I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

How are the hinges mounted? Sure you can't make an adjustment there?
The real solution is to fix the hanging post or the closing side to
return the opening back to its full width. Chopping on the gate isn't a
real good solution as that will then be there from now on...

--

In article om,
wrote:

I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

Two good pictures would help. One longer shot showing the overall
scenario and one close-up of the friction point.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article om,
wrote:

I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

Two good pictures would help. One longer shot showing the overall
scenario and one close-up of the friction point.

Third would be mounting detail at hinge side.

--

wrote in message
ps.com...
I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.


Can you pull the post back in line with a chain fall? Cutting the gate is a
real hack job.

On 01 Jul 2007 17:12:03 GMT, FM wrote:

wrote in
ups.com:

I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.

Why would he tell you in advance of what he'd do, so you could then go and
do it yourself!

I can see your logic here, but I wouldn't want some one to touch my
stuff without telling me what he's going to do to it. I had a
girlfriend once who did that, and never again.

Any help would be appreciated.

On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
this group.
dpb, send me your email address please.
2) The hinges are fixed and attached to the frame. This is attached to
a block wall (the wall has most likely moved). I might be able to buy
smaller hinges (with less of a gap), but then the gate might get stuck
on that side.
3) If the guy wanted to replace the latch-post with a smaller one, or
plane it somehow, I could not do that myself. Anyhow, I'm entitled to
get bids, so I need to compare what he's going to do, to anyone else's
bid including my own hack job. If his price is fair & worth $100+ then
he'll get the job!
4) It's 117 in Phoenix!

On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for all the replies.

In article ,
Meat Plow wrote:

On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:

On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

Yes, please do that. My email address is fictitious.

Sometimes you can use a car jack and a 4 x 4 post cut to size between the
openings of a gate to move the posts further apart. Just keep jacking until
the post(s) have moved where they need to be. Do this near the ground.


wrote in message
I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

On Mon, 2 Jul 2007 07:01:31 -0700, "Bill"
wrote:

Sometimes you can use a car jack and a 4 x 4 post cut to size between the
openings of a gate to move the posts further apart. Just keep jacking until
the post(s) have moved where they need to be. Do this near the ground.

If you are going to do this, soak the ground first. Get it soaking
wet. So the post will move without bending or breaking.

I"ve done this for a wooden fence post, that held a gate that was
sagging, but I disconnected the fence first. The OP doesn't say what
kind of fence he has, and he should have, because there are several
kinds of fence that might have a wrought iron gate. So I can't tell
if it is possble to disconnect the fence, or what will happen if he
doesn't, because each material, and other details, are different.

wrote in message
I have a wrought iron gate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of the gate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch the gate with a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

On Jul 2, 4:21 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch thegatewith a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=61xvf6g
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=53ts01t

Thanks for the url, that will come in handy.

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 2, 4:21 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch thegatewith a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=61xvf6g
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=53ts01t

Thanks for the url, that will come in handy.

Can't tell for sure, but it looks like the stucco'd stack of block next to
the house, that the latch is attached to, is pulling away from the house.
Anyway to fine-tune reality and draw that up against the house? Looks like
they didn't have enough foundation under the post, and it moved around with
changes in soil moisture.

After seeing the pics, $150 for a 'pretty' repair sounds cheap. Up north, on
old brick buildings where stuff moved around, they would sometimes lace it
back together with bigass bolts or rods, right through the wall of the
building. In some cases, they even samk the interior bolt heads/washers into
the wall and mudded over with plaster. In a warehouse or non-public area,
they would just leave them exposed.


aem sends...

In article ,
mm wrote:

On Mon, 2 Jul 2007 07:01:31 -0700, "Bill"
wrote:

Sometimes you can use a car jack and a 4 x 4 post cut to size between the
openings of a gate to move the posts further apart. Just keep jacking until
the post(s) have moved where they need to be. Do this near the ground.

If you are going to do this, soak the ground first. Get it soaking
wet. So the post will move without bending or breaking.

I"ve done this for a wooden fence post, that held a gate that was
sagging, but I disconnected the fence first. The OP doesn't say what
kind of fence he has, and he should have, because there are several
kinds of fence that might have a wrought iron gate. So I can't tell
if it is possble to disconnect the fence, or what will happen if he
doesn't, because each material, and other details, are different.



The OP emailed a pic to me, I posted it:

http://members.cox.net/prestwich/Gate.jpg

In article .com,
wrote:

On Jul 2, 4:21 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch thegatewith a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=61xvf6g
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=53ts01t

Thanks for the url, that will come in handy.

Ah, you're back. Those pics are a good start. Not sure whether I
understand what's binding, but it sounds like you could take a grinder
to the bolt head (or nut?) and make it thinner?

On Jul 2, 7:35 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,



mm wrote:
On Mon, 2 Jul 2007 07:01:31 -0700, "Bill"
wrote:

Sometimes you can use a car jack and a 4 x 4 post cut to size between the
openings of agateto move the posts further apart. Just keep jacking until
the post(s) have moved where they need to be. Do this near the ground.

If you are going to do this, soak the ground first. Get it soaking
wet. So the post will move without bending or breaking.

I"ve done this for a wooden fence post, that held agatethat was
sagging, but I disconnected the fence first. The OP doesn't say what
kind of fence he has, and he should have, because there are several
kinds of fence that might have a wrought irongate. So I can't tell
if it is possble to disconnect the fence, or what will happen if he
doesn't, because each material, and other details, are different.

The OP emailed a pic to me, I posted it:

http://members.cox.net/prestwich/Gate.jpg

Thanks Smitty,
Someone tuned me into tinypic, and I was able to get a few pics online.

On Jul 2, 6:40 pm, "aemeijers" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...

On Jul 2, 4:21 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch thegatewith a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=61xvf6g
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=53ts01t

Thanks for the url, that will come in handy.

Can't tell for sure, but it looks like the stucco'd stack of block next to
the house, that the latch is attached to, is pulling away from the house.
Anyway to fine-tune reality and draw that up against the house? Looks like
they didn't have enough foundation under the post, and it moved around with
changes in soil moisture.

After seeing the pics, $150 for a 'pretty' repair sounds cheap. Up north, on
old brick buildings where stuff moved around, they would sometimes lace it
back together with bigass bolts or rods, right through the wall of the
building. In some cases, they even samk the interior bolt heads/washers into
the wall and mudded over with plaster. In a warehouse or non-public area,
they would just leave them exposed.

aem sends...

I just checked, and both sides of the frame are level.
I know it looks like the block is "pulling away from the house", but
from the inside view, it's not that bad. I believe $150 is for a hack
job on the latch-post. Maybe grinding the nut like Smitty suggests.
IMO, the only pretty solution would be a new gate, and that's gonna
cost more then $150.

On Jul 2, 7:49 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article .com,



wrote:
On Jul 2, 4:21 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch thegatewith a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=61xvf6g
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=53ts01t

Thanks for the url, that will come in handy.

Ah, you're back. Those pics are a good start. Not sure whether I
understand what's binding, but it sounds like you could take a grinder
to the bolt head (or nut?) and make it thinner?

Now were talking! Maybe I can buy a thinner nut, then use my hacksaw
on the bolt the protrudes from the wall.
Hopefully this won't cause a bigger problem when it has to be
professionally repaired.

In article .com,
orcl wrote:

On Jul 2, 7:49 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article .com,



wrote:
On Jul 2, 4:21 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not
shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of
the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch thegatewith a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do
something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics
to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=61xvf6g
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=53ts01t

Thanks for the url, that will come in handy.

Ah, you're back. Those pics are a good start. Not sure whether I
understand what's binding, but it sounds like you could take a grinder
to the bolt head (or nut?) and make it thinner?

Now were talking! Maybe I can buy a thinner nut, then use my hacksaw
on the bolt the protrudes from the wall.

That could work. You *might* mess up the threads enough that it could be
difficult to get the thin nut (i think they're called jam nuts) started.

You could also think about cutting that bolt off flush after replacing
it with one mounted two inches up or down from it, that is hidden inside
the tube. Maybe a lead anchor. (The outer wall of the tube would need a
larger tool access hole, the new bolt holds the inner wall only.)

On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 19:03:24 -0700, wrote:

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.


Hard to see the problem. But maybe drill a mounting hole, or attach a
mounting plate, at the bottom and near the corner of the gate so that
you can bolt on castor wheel. This wheel will support the weight of
the gate and lift slightly higher so that it won't bind on the hinge.

On Jul 2, 8:29 pm, PaPaPeng wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 19:03:24 -0700, wrote:
Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

Hard to see the problem. But maybe drill a mounting hole, or attach a
mounting plate, at the bottom and near the corner of the gate so that
you can bolt on castor wheel. This wheel will support the weight of
the gate and lift slightly higher so that it won't bind on the hinge.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
Look about 5 inches under the latch, the nut that hold the post to the
wall, will not allow the gate past.

On Jul 2, 8:25 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article .com,



orcl wrote:
On Jul 2, 7:49 pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article .com,

wrote:
On Jul 2, 4:21 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not
shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of
the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch thegatewith a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do
something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics
to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=61xvf6g
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=53ts01t

Thanks for the url, that will come in handy.

Ah, you're back. Those pics are a good start. Not sure whether I
understand what's binding, but it sounds like you could take a grinder
to the bolt head (or nut?) and make it thinner?

Now were talking! Maybe I can buy a thinner nut, then use my hacksaw
on the bolt the protrudes from the wall.

That could work. You *might* mess up the threads enough that it could be
difficult to get the thin nut (i think they're called jam nuts) started.

You could also think about cutting that bolt off flush after replacing
it with one mounted two inches up or down from it, that is hidden inside
the tube. Maybe a lead anchor. (The outer wall of the tube would need a
larger tool access hole, the new bolt holds the inner wall only.)

I'm picturing a bolt head inside the block wall that keeps the bolt
tight. Your anchor solution sounds like a way to replace that
function?
I remember my dad using this butterfly thing, to keep hooks from
pulling out of the ceiling. I can drill into the empty part of the
block and push the butterfly, bolt & post back into position. If it
opens inside the block, then I'll have a fake bolt head, right? I'd
almost forgotten how handy my father was, thanks again.

On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 20:49:37 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article .com,
wrote:

On Jul 2, 4:21 am, Meat Plow wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 06:17:43 +0000, adgold10 wrote:
On Jul 1, 1:12 am, wrote:
I have a wrought irongate, and my fence has moved so it does not shut
anymore. There are no springs, adjustments etc. The top of thegate
just moved a bit, and it is getting stuck on the bolt holding the
stationary iron tube to the wall. The nut is flush with the end of the
bolt.
I was thinking I could notch thegatewith a hacksaw, and buy myself
some time. I've talked to a fence company who says he can do something
for $100-$150. Sounds expensive, and he's being secretive about what
he will do.
Any help would be appreciated.

OK, more info was needed.
1) Smitty, a picture was sent to you. I don't think I can post pics to
this group.

Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=61xvf6g
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=53ts01t

Thanks for the url, that will come in handy.

Ah, you're back. Those pics are a good start. Not sure whether I
understand what's binding, but it sounds like you could take a grinder
to the bolt head (or nut?) and make it thinner?

If that would work, I don't think it would look ugly like someone
said. Just paint it the same kind of black. You rarely see something
very old that hasn't been fiddled with, and a little grinding seems
minor.

Based on the pics, I would measure the distance at the top and bottom
between the inner face of both pieces of cement. And I would measure
the width at the top and bottom of the gate, and find out where the
problem is. It's hard to tell these things without meausuring. It
looks to me like the outer wall is falling away at the top, although
the problem seems more likely if it were falling into the other wall.

On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 22:16:51 -0700, orcl wrote:

On Jul 2, 8:29 pm, PaPaPeng wrote:
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 19:03:24 -0700, wrote:
Post pics to tinypic.com, paste the url here.

Hard to see the problem. But maybe drill a mounting hole, or attach a
mounting plate, at the bottom and near the corner of the gate so that
you can bolt on castor wheel. This wheel will support the weight of
the gate and lift slightly higher so that it won't bind on the hinge.

http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=5xz81gm
Look about 5 inches under the latch, the nut that hold the post to the
wall, will not allow the gate past.

!!!! Why is that there at all? That wasn't in the original
installation. How was it supposed to have been attacned?

Why did no one paint it black? Can you take it out, hammer or drill a
countersink** into the metal, and put the same or thinner-headed bolt
bakc in?

**I have no idea if one could do this. If it is all wrought iron, if
it is solid or hollow. If it's solid, surely there's room to
countersink it, although then you couldn't use a hex head. So what,
get a screwdriver head or torx head (if they come big enough.
Probably do.) There are lots of heads that don't require a wrench
around the outside.

If it's hollow, but has an opposite side, maybe a larger hole can be
made in the side closer to the gate, and then a screw can be put in
that holds only the side close to the wall. Non-hex so the first
layer hole doesn't have to be so big. You could plug the bigger hole
with a black plastic "plug" or hammer in a dowel rod and paint it
black. Or leave the hole./


You should have pointed out where the problem was when you first
posted the pictures, because a lot of time was afaict spent by
everyone on things that are not the problem. Some people I'm sure
gave up, so it's in your interest to to present the whole problem at
the beginning.

I can't see the silver thing from the other side of the fence.

I can't see the silver thing from the other side of the fence.

The silver thing is a nut. If I remove it, I have the "tail" of a
bolt. This bolt is coming out of the block wall & through the hollow
post. I can only assume that it was pushed out when they built the
wall. Also removing that nut will free the post from the top of the
wall. I think I explained it pretty well, except I wasn't clear about
it Stopping the gate from moving the last inch.
I made it sound like it was binding or friction. That was last year,
now we've moved on to the gate slamming into the nut. Anyway, I'm
probably going to do Smitty's solution, and install a flat/flush head
in another hole, and cut the problem bolt out of the way. If it goes
smoothly, I might also do the bottom bolt/nut. That one has plenty of
clearance for now.

On Tue, 03 Jul 2007 01:06:29 -0700, orcl wrote:

I can't see the silver thing from the other side of the fence.

The silver thing is a nut. If I remove it, I have the "tail" of a
bolt. This bolt is coming out of the block wall & through the hollow
post. I can only assume that it was pushed out when they built the
wall. Also removing that nut will free the post from the top of the
wall. I think I explained it pretty well, except I wasn't clear about

It was scattered all over the place. I'm done.

it Stopping the gate from moving the last inch.
I made it sound like it was binding or friction. That was last year,
now we've moved on to the gate slamming into the nut. Anyway, I'm
probably going to do Smitty's solution, and install a flat/flush head
in another hole, and cut the problem bolt out of the way. If it goes
smoothly, I might also do the bottom bolt/nut. That one has plenty of
clearance for now.