I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

TIA.

On Jun 24, 1:56 pm, Stubby
wrote:
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

You could try one of the new compression fittings that don't require
soldering.
http://www.hatcreekoutfit.com/xcart/...cat=561&page=1
They're sold at the big box stores.

R

wad up some bread til doey ,stuff it in the pipe and solder

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

I'd go for the compression fittings. I had a similar problem with an
old house and rather fragile Cu. water pipes, that I didn't want to
take a torch to, and could not be drained. However, I used the
conventional compression fittings that you put on with a PAIR of
wrenches. Cleaned stuff down good first, and lubricated everything
lightly with silicon grease. Sold the house a couple of years ago, and
as far as I know, the fix worked.

There are some water soluble plugs -- have seen them, but not used
them -- which can be inserted to keep water out. They then dissolve in
a couple of hours. Look like big vitamin pills/gel caps.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:56:37 -0400, Stubby
wrote:

I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

Are you then going to turn something on so that it is under presssure
again??? Or will it from now on have no more than a drip which can
also drain through the other end of the pipe?

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

I don't know what is wrong with the bread trick, and I can't tell if
your pipe is very close to the slab or not, but to answer your
specific question, PC-70 will go on to a wet, even a dripping sink
drain and cure and patch the leak. But the drain had next to zero
water pressure, even when the faucet was on. BEcause it was on the
side of the pipe, maybe wrapped around it, the mixture kept falling
off slowly, and I would have to push it back up until it hardened
enough not to fall. I think it sets in 15 minutes. Great stuff with
lots of uses. Lasts for years and years if one doesn't let any of A
touch B. The pair of four ounce cans is a lot cheaper per ounce, but
the small size (one two-ended cardboard tube) is sold at HD.


Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

TIA.

"Stubby" wrote in message
news
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating pipe
that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone disabled,
the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that zone open
and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy that
will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

I have used epoxy, but it specifies the pipe has to be dry.
I have also bought, at a store going out of business, a CA glue that says
that a small amount of water does not matter. I can't verify it actually
works, as I haven't used it yet. But that is exactly what I bought it for.

In article , mm wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:56:37 -0400, Stubby
wrote:

I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

Are you then going to turn something on so that it is under presssure
again??? Or will it from now on have no more than a drip which can
also drain through the other end of the pipe?

"copper tubing in a heating system" implies that it will again be pressurized,
typically to around 20 psig, once the repair is completed -- and may be
carrying some *very* hot water.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

I don't know what is wrong with the bread trick,

You don't want breadcrumbs circulating around inside a heating system. They're
not good for the valves.

and I can't tell if
your pipe is very close to the slab or not, but to answer your
specific question, PC-70 will go on to a wet, even a dripping sink
drain and cure and patch the leak. But the drain had next to zero
water pressure, even when the faucet was on. BEcause it was on the
side of the pipe, maybe wrapped around it, the mixture kept falling
off slowly, and I would have to push it back up until it hardened
enough not to fall. I think it sets in 15 minutes. Great stuff with
lots of uses. Lasts for years and years if one doesn't let any of A
touch B. The pair of four ounce cans is a lot cheaper per ounce, but
the small size (one two-ended cardboard tube) is sold at HD.

But does it work (a) under pressure, or (b) at higher temperatures than are
normally encountered in domestic hot water use? Residential hydronic heating
systems typically operate at pressures around 20 psig and temperatures of 160
to 185 degrees F.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On 24 Jun 2007 19:24:46 GMT, Clark wrote:

wrote in :

wad up some bread til doey ,stuff it in the pipe and solder


Why does a wad of bread in a boiler not sound like a good idea?

My limited understanding of using the "bread trick" is that is needs
to be flushed out through a faucet(s) with the aerator removed to
clear the line. Can one do this on a boiler?

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."

If you are afraid of the bread method . . . .

Often you can cut apart more of the pipe. You don't tell what is
causing the drip, but cut out enough pipe to get beyond it.
Solder up all the low joints and save a high joint for the final
solder work.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Stubby" wrote in message
news
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a
heating pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I
have the zone disabled, the water into the boiler turned off,
the drain valve on that zone open and a spigot used to release
air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe
that I intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe.
I'm reluctant to try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of
"solder", maybe epoxy that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!).
Is there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking
joint?

TIA.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 11:25:57 -0700, RicodJour
wrote:

You could try one of the new compression fittings that don't require
soldering.
http://www.hatcreekoutfit.com/xcart/...cat=561&page=1
They're sold at the big box stores.

R

Thanks. I see this works with Pex ... good to know.

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."

I've had success with a wet pick-up
vacuum. I connected the vacuum
to a nearby faucet (open) and kept is
running while soldering. Might not
work in all cases, but, it has worked
for me.

Stubby wrote:
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

TIA.

In article , Art Todesco wrote:
I've had success with a wet pick-up vacuum. I connected the vacuum
to a nearby faucet (open) and kept is running while soldering. Might not
work in all cases, but, it has worked for me.

That's pretty clever -- I'll remember that one. Thanks. I like that.

Probably won't work for Stubby, though. He's working on a hydronic heating
system, not a domestic water supply, and probably doesn't have any faucets
available to him:

Stubby wrote:
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

RicodJour wrote:
On Jun 24, 1:56 pm, Stubby
wrote:

I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?


You could try one of the new compression fittings that don't require
soldering.
http://www.hatcreekoutfit.com/xcart/...cat=561&page=1
They're sold at the big box stores.

R


Rico,

Since when have compression fittings been "new". I have been
using them for about 30 years, albeit that was on industrial
jobs as a tubing fitter. What is new about these?

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 23:15:02 GMT, Robert Allison
wrote:

Rico,

Since when have compression fittings been "new". I have been
using them for about 30 years, albeit that was on industrial
jobs as a tubing fitter. What is new about these?

Not to speak for Rico, but this fitting would be "new" to me. It works
on Pex; apparently, and I am a first time owner of Pex plumbing.

--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."

"RicodJour" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Jun 24, 1:56 pm, Stubby
wrote:
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

You could try one of the new compression fittings that don't require
soldering.
http://www.hatcreekoutfit.com/xcart/...cat=561&page=1
They're sold at the big box stores.

R


With a boiler heater I would recommend a flare fitting over compression. It
is a bit more work and you need to get a flare tool, but it would be a
better solution given the application.

On Jun 24, 6:59 pm, "Mike Dobony" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

ups.com...



On Jun 24, 1:56 pm, Stubby
wrote:
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

You could try one of the new compression fittings that don't require
soldering.
http://www.hatcreekoutfit.com/xcart/...p?productid=14...
They're sold at the big box stores.

R

With a boiler heater I would recommend a flare fitting over compression. It
is a bit more work and you need to get a flare tool, but it would be a
better solution given the application.

You're assuming the OP has soft copper?

On Jun 24, 8:53 pm, Meat Plow wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 18:49:18 -0700, marson wrote:
On Jun 24, 6:59 pm, "Mike Dobony" wrote:
"RicodJour" wrote in message

roups.com...

On Jun 24, 1:56 pm, Stubby
wrote:
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

You could try one of the new compression fittings that don't require
soldering.
http://www.hatcreekoutfit.com/xcart/...p?productid=14...
They're sold at the big box stores.

R

With a boiler heater I would recommend a flare fitting over compression. It
is a bit more work and you need to get a flare tool, but it would be a
better solution given the application.

You're assuming the OP has soft copper?

Why wouldn't it be? Pressure?

He didn't say one way or the other. Better find out before you start
trying to sell him on flare fittings.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 19:54:49 GMT, (Doug Miller)
wrote:

In article , mm wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:56:37 -0400, Stubby
wrote:

I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

Are you then going to turn something on so that it is under presssure
again??? Or will it from now on have no more than a drip which can
also drain through the other end of the pipe?

"copper tubing in a heating system" implies that it will again be pressurized,

I know that, but I wasn't sure if he planned to ever use this zone
again. I thought maybe it was out of use, but still leaking.

typically to around 20 psig, once the repair is completed -- and may be
carrying some *very* hot water.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

I don't know what is wrong with the bread trick,

You don't want breadcrumbs circulating around inside a heating system. They're
not good for the valves.

Okey dokey

and I can't tell if
your pipe is very close to the slab or not, but to answer your
specific question, PC-70 will go on to a wet, even a dripping sink
drain and cure and patch the leak. But the drain had next to zero
water pressure, even when the faucet was on. BEcause it was on the
side of the pipe, maybe wrapped around it, the mixture kept falling
off slowly, and I would have to push it back up until it hardened
enough not to fall. I think it sets in 15 minutes. Great stuff with
lots of uses. Lasts for years and years if one doesn't let any of A
touch B. The pair of four ounce cans is a lot cheaper per ounce, but
the small size (one two-ended cardboard tube) is sold at HD.

But does it work (a) under pressure,

Never tried that. I somewhat doubt it but I'm not sure, especially if
the stuff was wrapped around the whole circumference of the pipe.

or (b) at higher temperatures than are
normally encountered in domestic hot water use? Residential hydronic heating
systems typically operate at pressures around 20 psig and temperatures of 160
to 185 degrees F.

I don't think this would be a problem. I once used PC-70 to patch a
leaking pan, and then, atypcially, I left the pan on the stove and
boiled out all the water, and left it on the stove even after that for
a while. After it cooled of, it still didn't leak, even on the stove.

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 19:52:49 GMT, "Toller" wrote:


I have used epoxy, but it specifies the pipe has to be dry.

It says that even for room temp and no pressure I bet. That's one of
the times PC-70 is good.

I have also bought, at a store going out of business, a CA glue that says
that a small amount of water does not matter. I can't verify it actually
works, as I haven't used it yet. But that is exactly what I bought it for.

On Jun 24, 1:56 pm, Stubby
wrote:
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

TIA.

I recently came across this website:

http://www.justforcopper.com/

They make what appears to be an epoxy-type bonder for joining copper
pipe. It's about $13 from Amazon.com. I've never used it, so I can't
vouch for it, but you can read a review of it at http://www.kk.org/cooltools/.

In article , "Mike Dobony" wrote:

With a boiler heater I would recommend a flare fitting over compression. It
is a bit more work and you need to get a flare tool, but it would be a
better solution given the application.

What would make flare fittings a better choice than compression in this
application?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Jun 24, 7:15 pm, Robert Allison wrote:

Since when have compression fittings been "new". I have been
using them for about 30 years, albeit that was on industrial
jobs as a tubing fitter. What is new about these?

New style, Bob. Also new to the big box stores, new to residential
construction (aimed at DIYer), new packaging and new to you if you've
never seen them before.

R

On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:56:37 -0400, Stubby
wrote:

I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

TIA.

You might be interest in a product, that I came across just a few days
from the Family Handyman magazine May 2001 issue (pg 95). The Topic "Plumbling
Pipe Pluggers." They are available in:

http://www.wmharvey.com/prod/cat7/dissolvable.php

...

On Jul 1, 7:30 pm, John JJ wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:56:37 -0400, Stubby

wrote:
I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

TIA.

You might be interest in a product, that I came across just a few days
from the Family Handyman magazine May 2001 issue (pg 95). The Topic "Plumbling
Pipe Pluggers." They are available in:

http://www.wmharvey.com/prod/cat7/dissolvable.php

..

if there is a water flow than you have to try to close the flow... if
it is closed but water still flows slowly... you can stuff the pipe
with sandwich bread a couple of slices... this will absorb the water
giving you time to do your soldering.

Just stuff some white bread into the wet pipe, as far as possible. It will
dissolve and discharge through the faucet when the water is restored.

--
Walter
www.rationality.net
-
"John JJ" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Jun 2007 13:56:37 -0400, Stubby
wrote:

I'm trying to insert a 6" section of 3/4" copper tubing in a heating
pipe that runs through a channel in my house slab. I have the zone
disabled, the water into the boiler turned off, the drain valve on that
zone open and a spigot used to release air and facilitate draining open.

But there is a constant drop of water in one side of the pipe that I
intend to solder. I know I can't solder a wet pipe. I'm reluctant to
try the old bread trick. Is there any kind of "solder", maybe epoxy
that will work with the wet pipe?

Suppose I fail in the repair attempt (this is the third time!). Is
there some sort of clamp that will seal off the leaking joint?

TIA.

You might be interest in a product, that I came across just a few days
from the Family Handyman magazine May 2001 issue (pg 95). The Topic
"Plumbling
Pipe Pluggers." They are available in:

http://www.wmharvey.com/prod/cat7/dissolvable.php

..



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com

wrote:
On Jul 1, 7:30 pm, John JJ wrote:

if there is a water flow than you have to try to close the flow... if
it is closed but water still flows slowly... you can stuff the pipe
with sandwich bread a couple of slices... this will absorb the water
giving you time to do your soldering.

I finally located a pair of 3/4" compression joints ($10 each!). But
these require cutting the pipe stubs in the channel in the slab. So I
decided to try the old bread trick with the existing stubs properly
prepared and use a pair of standard sweat repair fittings. If it
failed, I would have to do the cutting to use my compression fittings.

Luck was with me! The bread trick worked. Thanks to all that offered
advice.

In article , "Walter R." wrote:
Just stuff some white bread into the wet pipe, as far as possible. It will
dissolve and discharge through the faucet when the water is restored.

Missed the part about that being in a hot-water heating system, didja?

No faucet.

No way to get the bread out.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Clark wrote:
wrote in :

wad up some bread til doey ,stuff it in the pipe and solder

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm


Why does a wad of bread in a boiler not sound like a good idea?

If it gets stuck in your closed boiler system, you're toast.

--
I couldn't resist.

Clark wrote:
clifto wrote in :
Clark wrote:
wrote in
:

wad up some bread til doey ,stuff it in the pipe and solder

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm


Why does a wad of bread in a boiler not sound like a good idea?

If it gets stuck in your closed boiler system, you're toast.


Soggy toast?

It ain't milk toast.

--
Postulate a group whose intent is to destroy the United States from within
via anarchy and bankruptcy. The actions of the United States Congress are
completely consistent with the actions one would predict from such a group.