Serious help required! I purchased a GoalSetter Wall Mounted
Basketball system to be installed on the side of my home above a large
driveway. It is a 72 inch glass backboard that is to be attached to
two steel brackets. The brackets are to be attached to the brick on
the side of the home. Unfortunately, the directions fail to specify
exactly HOW the brackets are to be attached. A call to the
manufacturer reveals that for insurance purposes, they cannot instruct
a buyer on the proper installation as every home is different. I was
told to contract with an architect or an engineer to best determine
how the system is best secured to the brick.

Before I follow that advice and incurr the expense, I was hoping
someone could advise me. My thoughts were to drill holes in the brick
corresponding to the holes in the two brackets. Anchors and bolts
would then be inserted and held tight with either an expanding cement
compound or a cement epoxy. I was then going to affix 2x4s against
the brick followed by the steel brackets. My reasoning is to lessen
the vibration of the basketball system directly against the brick.

Can anyone give me any advice? I am planning to rent a high lift to
ease the workload as the backboard weighs over 200 pounds. Also, the
system is designed to provide 4 feet of clearance between the hoop and
the wall at a height of 10 feet. I do not know if I need to include
the 2x4s to reduce vibration or the best way to secure the anchor
bolts. Thanks.

On Jun 11, 12:55 pm, poolfan wrote:
Serious help required! I purchased a GoalSetter Wall Mounted
Basketball system to be installed on the side of my home above a large
driveway. It is a 72 inch glass backboard that is to be attached to
two steel brackets. The brackets are to be attached to the brick on
the side of the home. Unfortunately, the directions fail to specify
exactly HOW the brackets are to be attached. A call to the
manufacturer reveals that for insurance purposes, they cannot instruct
a buyer on the proper installation as every home is different. I was
told to contract with an architect or an engineer to best determine
how the system is best secured to the brick.

Before I follow that advice and incurr the expense, I was hoping
someone could advise me. My thoughts were to drill holes in the brick
corresponding to the holes in the two brackets. Anchors and bolts
would then be inserted and held tight with either an expanding cement
compound or a cement epoxy. I was then going to affix 2x4s against
the brick followed by the steel brackets. My reasoning is to lessen
the vibration of the basketball system directly against the brick.

Can anyone give me any advice? I am planning to rent a high lift to
ease the workload as the backboard weighs over 200 pounds. Also, the
system is designed to provide 4 feet of clearance between the hoop and
the wall at a height of 10 feet. I do not know if I need to include
the 2x4s to reduce vibration or the best way to secure the anchor
bolts. Thanks.

DON'T attach it to the brick veneer of the house. Get a pole.

In most 'brick' homes the brick is mainly decorative and will not take
the abuse of a BB hoop no matter how it is attached.

poolfan wrote:
Serious help required! I purchased a GoalSetter Wall Mounted
Basketball system to be installed on the side of my home above a large
driveway. It is a 72 inch glass backboard that is to be attached to
two steel brackets. The brackets are to be attached to the brick on
the side of the home. ...
....
... My thoughts were to drill holes in the brick
corresponding to the holes in the two brackets. Anchors and bolts
would then be inserted and held tight with either an expanding cement
compound or a cement epoxy. I was then going to affix 2x4s against
the brick followed by the steel brackets. My reasoning is to lessen
the vibration of the basketball system directly against the brick.

...the backboard weighs over 200 pounds. Also, the
system is designed to provide 4 feet of clearance between the hoop and
the wall ...

That's a _lot_ of weight and moment arm -- I agree w/ the other
responder that if it's just a brick veneer you're asking for trouble.
It _might_ stay, but it could easily bring the veneer down, particularly
if there are any of the size that can reach the rim/net and put any
additional load on it.

This is going to take a serious mount and w/o knowing much more about
the house construction is pretty difficult to give good advice.
Certainly w/ a b-board of that size I can see why the manufacturer
doesn't want to be involved...

Only general advice I would have would be that hopefully this wall
location is accessible from the inside (over a garage space or similar)
and what would be required if it's conventional frame construction/brick
veneer would be to go through the wall and put a
load-bearing/-distributing plate on the inside to transfer the load
across several adjoining wall studs. Even that easily might not be
sufficient to prevent cracking of the mortar joints on the veneer and/or
similar w/ drywall/plaster on the inside.

I'd not mount a b-board on the house anyway, personally, simply from the
sound-carrying annoyance factor of being on the inside, and brick would
be even worse than frame alone for that. Also, it could be a real
detriment to the value on resale that way and much more hassle to take
care of if it were a bottleneck in that regard. Of course, that's only
an issue if there is a need to sell. I think despite the disadvantage
of the pole from a play point-of-view, that would be my first
recommendation. Of course, if the target point is the middle of the
garage door opening, that is a problem, too. In that case, and you're
still wanting to go ahead w/ the wall-mount, the advice of "get some
professional advice" may be the best...

--

On Mon, 11 Jun 2007 09:55:33 -0700, poolfan
wrote:

Also, the
system is designed to provide 4 feet of clearance between the hoop and
the wall at a height of 10 feet.

I agree with Ray and DPB. 200 pounds is a lot to begin with, and the
fact that it stciks out 4 feet means that most of that 200 pounds will
be putting much more force on the wall, outwards as well as down, than
if the same thing were screwed right to the wall.

mm wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jun 2007 09:55:33 -0700, poolfan
wrote:

Also, the
system is designed to provide 4 feet of clearance between the hoop and
the wall at a height of 10 feet.

I agree with Ray and DPB. 200 pounds is a lot to begin with, and the
fact that it stciks out 4 feet means that most of that 200 pounds will
be putting much more force on the wall, outwards as well as down, than
if the same thing were screwed right to the wall.

And, every bit of that "outward" force at the top mounting point will be
balanced by an "inward" force at the bottom, creating a nice lever arm
in between.

--

On Mon, 11 Jun 2007 14:51:25 -0500, dpb wrote:

mm wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jun 2007 09:55:33 -0700, poolfan
wrote:

Also, the
system is designed to provide 4 feet of clearance between the hoop and
the wall at a height of 10 feet.

I agree with Ray and DPB. 200 pounds is a lot to begin with, and the
fact that it stciks out 4 feet means that most of that 200 pounds will
be putting much more force on the wall, outwards as well as down, than
if the same thing were screwed right to the wall.

And, every bit of that "outward" force at the top mounting point will be
balanced by an "inward" force at the bottom, creating a nice lever arm
in between.

In case the OP doesn't get it, that is a baddd thing.