I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

"Edward" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.



Leviton makes one. Model #6124H-W. It costs around 50 bucks, but will work
with any light fixture. It requires a neutral.
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...&section=17138

I believe the EJ 351C will work




"Edward" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

On May 4, 6:54 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"Edward" wrote in message

ups.com...

I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

Leviton makes one. Model #6124H-W. It costs around 50 bucks, but will work
with any light fixture. It requires a neutral.http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...?item=9447§ion...

Um...

what's a neutral?

"Edward" wrote in message
oups.com...
On May 4, 6:54 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
"Edward" wrote in message

ups.com...

I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

Leviton makes one. Model #6124H-W. It costs around 50 bucks, but will
work
with any light fixture. It requires a
neutral.http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...?item=9447§ion...

Um...

what's a neutral?

The white wire. Some switch boxes only have the hot (black wires) in them
as those are the only wires that connect to a normal switch. Other boxes
have both the black and the white whire. A timer or remote switch that
works with a CF bulb requires that you have the white wire in the box as it
requires a connection to both the black and the white wire.
--
Peace,
BobJ

On May 4, 10:03 am, "Marilyn & Bob" wrote:
"Edward" wrote in message

oups.com...
On May 4, 6:54 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:





"Edward" wrote in message

oups.com...

I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

Leviton makes one. Model #6124H-W. It costs around 50 bucks, but will
work
with any light fixture. It requires a
neutral.http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...?item=9447§ion...

Um...

what's a neutral?

The white wire. Some switch boxes only have the hot (black wires) in them
as those are the only wires that connect to a normal switch. Other boxes
have both the black and the white whire. A timer or remote switch that
works with a CF bulb requires that you have the white wire in the box as it
requires a connection to both the black and the white wire.
--
Peace,
BobJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't think I have that.
Last time I replaced a switch there there were only two red wires.
The house was built in 1975.

Ok then... since it is impossible for to save energe... do they
still make ultra long life incandescents? I remember in the 90's they
made 100 year bulbs... they still around?

In article om,
Edward wrote:

On May 4, 10:03 am, "Marilyn & Bob" wrote:
"Edward" wrote in message

oups.com...
On May 4, 6:54 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:





"Edward" wrote in message

oups.com...

I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

Leviton makes one. Model #6124H-W. It costs around 50 bucks, but will
work
with any light fixture. It requires a
neutral.http://www.leviton.com/OA
HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=9447§ion...

Um...

what's a neutral?

The white wire. Some switch boxes only have the hot (black wires) in them
as those are the only wires that connect to a normal switch. Other boxes
have both the black and the white whire. A timer or remote switch that
works with a CF bulb requires that you have the white wire in the box as it
requires a connection to both the black and the white wire.
--
Peace,
BobJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't think I have that.
Last time I replaced a switch there there were only two red wires.
The house was built in 1975.

Ok then... since it is impossible for to save energe... do they
still make ultra long life incandescents? I remember in the 90's they
made 100 year bulbs... they still around?

The electricity has to come from somewhere. If the neutral's not in the
switchbox, where is it? It's an outdoor light, so it can't be in the
ceiling.

In-socket rectifiers are rumored to extend bulb life. Also, they make
bulbs with 130 volt filaments, IIRC, that run much cooler on 110 or 120,
thus extending life. You pay a slight energy consumption per lumen
penalty for that feature.

On May 4, 11:53 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article om,





Edward wrote:
On May 4, 10:03 am, "Marilyn & Bob" wrote:
"Edward" wrote in message

roups.com...
On May 4, 6:54 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:

"Edward" wrote in message

oups.com...

I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

Leviton makes one. Model #6124H-W. It costs around 50 bucks, but will
work
with any light fixture. It requires a
neutral.http://www.leviton.com/OA
HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=9447§ion...

Um...

what's a neutral?

The white wire. Some switch boxes only have the hot (black wires) in them
as those are the only wires that connect to a normal switch. Other boxes
have both the black and the white whire. A timer or remote switch that
works with a CF bulb requires that you have the white wire in the box as it
requires a connection to both the black and the white wire.
--
Peace,
BobJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't think I have that.
Last time I replaced a switch there there were only two red wires.
The house was built in 1975.

Ok then... since it is impossible for to save energe... do they
still make ultra long life incandescents? I remember in the 90's they
made 100 year bulbs... they still around?

The electricity has to come from somewhere. If the neutral's not in the
switchbox, where is it? It's an outdoor light, so it can't be in the
ceiling.

In-socket rectifiers are rumored to extend bulb life. Also, they make
bulbs with 130 volt filaments, IIRC, that run much cooler on 110 or 120,
thus extending life. You pay a slight energy consumption per lumen
penalty for that feature.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Right.
I'll take a picture when I get home.
I think there are only two wires minus the ground in the switchbox,
but the timer has four wires.

Like I said, the EJ 351 C works with fluorescent ballasts, but if you want a
really long life incandescent lamp, look at www.grainger.com under traffic
signal lamp



"Edward" wrote in message
ps.com...
On May 4, 11:53 am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article om,





Edward wrote:
On May 4, 10:03 am, "Marilyn & Bob" wrote:
"Edward" wrote in message

roups.com...
On May 4, 6:54 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:

"Edward" wrote in message

oups.com...

I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says
NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out
there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the
ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

Leviton makes one. Model #6124H-W. It costs around 50 bucks, but
will
work
with any light fixture. It requires a
neutral.http://www.leviton.com/OA
HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=9447§ion...

Um...

what's a neutral?

The white wire. Some switch boxes only have the hot (black wires) in
them
as those are the only wires that connect to a normal switch. Other
boxes
have both the black and the white whire. A timer or remote switch
that
works with a CF bulb requires that you have the white wire in the box
as it
requires a connection to both the black and the white wire.
--
Peace,
BobJ- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I don't think I have that.
Last time I replaced a switch there there were only two red wires.
The house was built in 1975.

Ok then... since it is impossible for to save energe... do they
still make ultra long life incandescents? I remember in the 90's they
made 100 year bulbs... they still around?

The electricity has to come from somewhere. If the neutral's not in the
switchbox, where is it? It's an outdoor light, so it can't be in the
ceiling.

In-socket rectifiers are rumored to extend bulb life. Also, they make
bulbs with 130 volt filaments, IIRC, that run much cooler on 110 or 120,
thus extending life. You pay a slight energy consumption per lumen
penalty for that feature.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Right.
I'll take a picture when I get home.
I think there are only two wires minus the ground in the switchbox,
but the timer has four wires.

and it specifically says NOT to use it with starter, compact
flourescent or other electronic ballasts.

Does it say why?

I have a compact fluorescent in a light attached to a motion sensor,
and it works fine.

The electricity has to come from somewhere. If the
neutral's not in the switchbox, where is it?

It's quite common for the power to go directly to a light, with a seperate
cable running from the light to the switch. In that case, the white
"neutral" wire in the switch box is actually used for the return hot line.

In other words, the switch connects between the black and white wires, and
there is no neutral in the box.

When a switch is wired this way, the white wire is "supposed" to be
identified with tape or black marking to indicate it is being used as a hot
wire and not a neutral. But "supposed to be" and "really is" aren't always
the same thing.

Whenever possible, I like to use 14/3 or 12/3 cable to wire a switch like
this. This gives me a black hot, and a white neutral if a switch or other
device needs it. Then I use the red wire as the "switched" hot wire.

they make bulbs with 130 volt filaments, IIRC,
that run much cooler on 110 or 120

I like using "long life" bulbs made for ceiling fans. They have stronger
filaments to withstand the vibrations of a fan, and seem to last a long
time. Another plus, they're usually smaller than a regular bulb, which fits
nicer in many light fixtures.

Anthony

Edward,

I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.

Check www.smarthome.com

They have lots of different switches and timers. I'm sure something there
would do what you need.

Another option might be to install an X-10 socket out at the streetlight,
then use an X-10 control timer to turn it on and off when needed.

Anthony

In article ,
HerHusband wrote:

The electricity has to come from somewhere. If the
neutral's not in the switchbox, where is it?

It's quite common for the power to go directly to a light, with a seperate
cable running from the light to the switch.

Is it common to do that with an outdoor "street lamp" that is some
distance from the house? Why run two cables when one would do?

That would be really stupid, however it is common to have a junction box in
a basement or crawlspace, where the internal wiring transitions to outdoor
wiring. This would be a likely location to run the feed



"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
HerHusband wrote:

The electricity has to come from somewhere. If the
neutral's not in the switchbox, where is it?

It's quite common for the power to go directly to a light, with a
seperate
cable running from the light to the switch.

Is it common to do that with an outdoor "street lamp" that is some
distance from the house? Why run two cables when one would do?

On 3 May 2007 22:27:17 -0700, Edward wrote:

I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

I have a CFL controlled by an Intermatic EI220. This timer can be set
for 1,2,4,or 8 hours or to stay on. It does require a neutral
connection.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is
not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has
no place in the curriculum of our nation's public
school classes." -- Ted Kennedy

Intermatic makes a higher model that will do what you want. Big box stores
don't have it any more. I bought mine on line.


"Edward" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

I have 3 of these in my house for about 5 years:

http://www.intermatic.com/Default.as...d=43&sid=1 12

Latest models have an improved battery compartment which was a problem on
the ones I own.



"Edward" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have a streetlight with a CFL in it, and I want to put it on a
timer. I bought an Intermatic EJ500CL, and it specifically says NOT
to use it with starter, compact flourescent or other electronic
ballasts.
oops.
So what do I do? I don't want to put an incandescent lamp out there
because I'll have to change it constantly, and its a pain in the ass.
Is there a light switch wall timer that can be used with CFLs?
It can be used with class "P" ballast.
I am in north america, in case they make stuff for 220 that isn't
available for 110.

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:

Like I said, the EJ 351 C works with fluorescent ballasts, but if you want a
really long life incandescent lamp, look at www.grainger.com under traffic
signal lamp

Around here (South West Los Angeles County) ALL traffic lights are
now LEDs.
--
I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. I have
known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets.
They were all gourmands!

Here, there and everywhere else, they're going to LEDs for traffic signals,
but they still make 8000 hour lamps for the old style



"Daniel Prince" wrote in message
...
"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:

Like I said, the EJ 351 C works with fluorescent ballasts, but if you want
a
really long life incandescent lamp, look at www.grainger.com under
traffic
signal lamp

Around here (South West Los Angeles County) ALL traffic lights are
now LEDs.
--
I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. I have
known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets.
They were all gourmands!

Smitty,

It's quite common for the power to go directly to a light, with a
seperate cable running from the light to the switch.

Is it common to do that with an outdoor "street lamp" that is some
distance from the house? Why run two cables when one would do?

It's possible there's a junction box in the basement or crawlspace. Power
runs to the box, then a cable runs from the box out to the light, and a
third cable is fished up to the switch. This would save the extra work of
fishing a second cable up to the switch.

"IF" this is the case, and the cable isn't stapled to the studs or
something, it would be a simple matter to use the old 12/2 cable to pull in
a new 12/3 cable, thus supplying the neutral you need. I've done just that
recently doing some modernizing work at my in-law's house. (you might have
14 gauge wire, I'm just saying 12 since that's what I use for outdoor
circuits).

However, if the cable was part of the initial house wiring, it's probably
fastened to the studs and would be unusable as a pull cable. You'd have to
fish a whole new cable if you wanted to replace it.

Anthony

On Sun, 06 May 2007 05:20:20 -0700, Daniel Prince
wrote:

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:

Like I said, the EJ 351 C works with fluorescent ballasts, but if you want a
really long life incandescent lamp, look at www.grainger.com under traffic
signal lamp

Around here (South West Los Angeles County) ALL traffic lights are
now LEDs.

They are here (east Texas) too, at least I haven't seen a non-LED one
in a long time. Makes sense, considering that LED lights are supposed
to last longer and it's really expensive to change traffic light
bulbs.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"DISCLAIMER If you find a posting or message
from me offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive,
please ignore it. If you don't know how to
ignore a posting, complain to me and I will
demonstrate."

On Sun, 06 May 2007 12:21:49 -0500, Mark Lloyd
wrote:

On Sun, 06 May 2007 05:20:20 -0700, Daniel Prince
wrote:

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote:

Like I said, the EJ 351 C works with fluorescent ballasts, but if you want a
really long life incandescent lamp, look at www.grainger.com under traffic
signal lamp

Around here (South West Los Angeles County) ALL traffic lights are
now LEDs.

They are here (east Texas) too, at least I haven't seen a non-LED one
in a long time. Makes sense, considering that LED lights are supposed
to last longer and it's really expensive to change traffic light
bulbs.

Perhaps mor eto the point, they don't fail all at once.

On May 5, 10:02 pm, "Art" wrote:
Intermatic makes a higher model that will do what you want. Big box stores
don't have it any more. I bought mine on line.





any idea whatthe model number is?

I saw a LED traffic light recently that only about 1/2 of the red was
out. Boy that looked wierd.

Right after that in a bad storm I saw a hanging light assembly
twirling around, supported ONLY by its wire I called 911 from my
cell, by the time I pased back that way a couple hours later it was
gone.

Imagine that crashing thru your windshield

many years ago I had JUST got my first cell phone, actually it was a
big box with a seperate handset mounted in car. I noticed a broken
traffic light and didnt bother reporting it...... next night a lady
died there because of that broken signal.

please report obvious hazards

Mark Lloyd wrote:

They are here (east Texas) too, at least I haven't seen a non-LED one
in a long time. Makes sense, considering that LED lights are supposed
to last longer and it's really expensive to change traffic light
bulbs.

While the cost to replace the bulbs is probably the major savings,
LED traffic lights must save a lot of electricity. Using an 8,000
hour incandescent bulb with a color filter would be very
inefficient. The longer an incandescent bulb lasts, the more
electricity it takes to produce light. Color filters must block
more than half the light that the bulbs produce.

Cities and counties must be saving boatloads of money which they are
probably using to decorate county offices like five star hotels
and/or take junkets to Hawaii.
--
I don't understand why they make gourmet cat foods. I have
known many cats in my life and none of them were gourmets.
They were all gourmands!

On Wed, 09 May 2007 09:54:01 -0700, Daniel Prince
wrote:

Mark Lloyd wrote:

They are here (east Texas) too, at least I haven't seen a non-LED one
in a long time. Makes sense, considering that LED lights are supposed
to last longer and it's really expensive to change traffic light
bulbs.

While the cost to replace the bulbs is probably the major savings,
LED traffic lights must save a lot of electricity. Using an 8,000
hour incandescent bulb with a color filter would be very
inefficient. The longer an incandescent bulb lasts, the more
electricity it takes to produce light.

Color filters must block
more than half the light that the bulbs produce.


Something I hadn't really thought of until now. Thanks.
LEDs don't need color filters, so there's savings there.

Cities and counties must be saving boatloads of money which they are
probably using to decorate county offices like five star hotels
and/or take junkets to Hawaii.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"DISCLAIMER If you find a posting or message
from me offensive, inappropriate, or disruptive,
please ignore it. If you don't know how to
ignore a posting, complain to me and I will
demonstrate."

On May 5, 10:06 pm, "Art" wrote:
I have 3 of these in my house for about 5 years:

http://www.intermatic.com/Default.as...93&did=3&cid=4...

Latest models have an improved battery compartment which was a problem on
the ones I own.

- Show quoted text -

Does that one support CFLs?