I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
beginner at understanding home electric wiring.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
beginner at understanding home electric wiring.


How did he test? You actually have two feeds of 110 volts. It is possible
that one leg is dropped out. First thing I'd check is the circuit inside
the breaker box. There are two wires that feed the 220 line. I'd check to
be sure each one had 110. Then I'd check the ground.

Not sure how he tested. He pulled the range out from the wall and
hooked something up to the back of it. He said there was not 220V
going into the unit.

On Mar 21, 3:21 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...



I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
beginner at understanding home electric wiring.

How did he test? You actually have two feeds of 110 volts. It is possible
that one leg is dropped out. First thing I'd check is the circuit inside
the breaker box. There are two wires that feed the 220 line. I'd check to
be sure each one had 110. Then I'd check the ground.

wrote:
I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
beginner at understanding home electric wiring.


Had a very similar problem. Turned out one of the two breakers for the
stove was arcing and burned. Replaced breaker. Had to file the metal
in the breaker box that the breaker attaches to. Had guidance from a
pro:-))

Lou

On 21 Mar 2007 12:46:20 -0700, wrote:

Not sure how he tested. He pulled the range out from the wall and
hooked something up to the back of it. He said there was not 220V
going into the unit.

iF HE was an electrician, did he offer to fix it? How much was he
going to charge? What did he say needed to be done?

I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Was it obviously tripped before you reset it? Or are you just saying
that you turned it off and on to be sure? That's a good idea, but I'd
still like to know if it was clearly tripped before you reset it.



On Mar 21, 3:21 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...



I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
beginner at understanding home electric wiring.

How did he test? You actually have two feeds of 110 volts. It is possible
that one leg is dropped out. First thing I'd check is the circuit inside
the breaker box. There are two wires that feed the 220 line. I'd check to
be sure each one had 110. Then I'd check the ground.

He was not an electrician. He was an appliance repair man who is not
certified to do professional electrical work.

The circuit was not clearly tripped. It was still in the on position.
I flipped it off and then on to see if it would work and had no luck.




On Mar 21, 4:21 pm, mm wrote:
On 21 Mar 2007 12:46:20 -0700, wrote:

Not sure how he tested. He pulled the range out from the wall and
hooked something up to the back of it. He said there was not 220V
going into the unit.

iF HE was an electrician, did he offer to fix it? How much was he
going to charge? What did he say needed to be done?

I have a breaker box

in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Was it obviously tripped before you reset it? Or are you just saying
that you turned it off and on to be sure? That's a good idea, but I'd
still like to know if it was clearly tripped before you reset it.

On Mar 21, 3:21 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
wrote in message

groups.com...

I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
beginner at understanding home electric wiring.

How did he test? You actually have two feeds of 110 volts. It is possible
that one leg is dropped out. First thing I'd check is the circuit inside
the breaker box. There are two wires that feed the 220 line. I'd check to
be sure each one had 110. Then I'd check the ground.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I recently turned on the stove on my electric range and heard a quiet
crackling noise. The range still gets electricity because the clock,
burner-on light, and oven light all work. The stove and oven will no
longer heat up, though. I contacted an appliance repair man who
measured the volts and said there is supposed to be 220V going into an
electric range and in my case, there is only 110V. He said the problem
is probably not with the stove/oven---and we can't even check to see
if there is a problem because there's not enough power to isolate the
problem to the range---but with electric supply. I have a breaker box
in the basement that I've reset to no quick solution.

Can anyone speculate as to why, all of the sudden, the range (or
rather, the outlet the range plugs into) is not receiving the
appropriate volts. Keep it simple for me if possible; I clearly am a
beginner at understanding home electric wiring.


That crackling noise indicates that you might have a bad connection. You
will need to pull out the stove and open the terminal box and check those
connections for tightness. If you have a receptacle behind the stove,
remove the cover and check those connections. Also open up your circuit
breaker panel and check the connection on the circuit breaker for the stove.
Make sure that you have 220 volts coming off of the breaker. If all of these
are good, then the problem may be internal to the stove.

Often the stove circuit is fed with aluminum wire. If the connections are
not tight, there could be some arcing and that could cause the aluminum to
melt at the point of termination and no longer make good contact.

On Mar 21, 4:26 pm, wrote:
He was not an electrician. He was an appliance repair man who is not
certified to do professional electrical work.

The circuit was not clearly tripped. It was still in the on position.
I flipped it off and then on to see if it would work and had no luck.

If I take a A/C Volt meter and measure from one hot leg to another hot
leg on a 200V system I should see 200V. If I only see 110V then I
know something has happened.

I can only forsee 2 possible problems:

1) There is a loose wire in the box you plug the range into
2) One of the 2 breakers is defective

If you can access the breakers:

Check the load side of each breaker with an A/C Volt meter. If you
read 200V at this point it is probably the plug end.
If your reading 110V then you have a breaker issue. Replace breaker,
or have a professional do so.

If your reading 200V at your plug, call the service person back and
beat with a rubber mallet. (won't necessarily get the problem
rectified, but you may feel better :P).

Thanks for all of the suggestions, folks. Now I just need to figure
out how not to get crushed by an electrician bill. Hopefully your
suggestions will allow me to get them in and out in no time. Or at
least sound like I know enough where they don't try to mess with me.

On Mar 22, 1:35 am, "Justin West" wrote:
On Mar 21, 4:26 pm, wrote:

He was not an electrician. He was an appliance repair man who is not
certified to do professional electrical work.

The circuit was not clearly tripped. It was still in the on position.
I flipped it off and then on to see if it would work and had no luck.

If I take a A/C Volt meter and measure from one hot leg to another hot
leg on a 200V system I should see 200V. If I only see 110V then I
know something has happened.

I can only forsee 2 possible problems:

1) There is a loose wire in the box you plug the range into
2) One of the 2 breakers is defective

If you can access the breakers:

Check the load side of each breaker with an A/C Volt meter. If you
read 200V at this point it is probably the plug end.
If your reading 110V then you have a breaker issue. Replace breaker,
or have a professional do so.

If your reading 200V at your plug, call the service person back and
beat with a rubber mallet. (won't necessarily get the problem
rectified, but you may feel better :P).

Turns out the outlet was wired incorrectly by a previous owner and the
cord was meant for a clothes dryer, not a range. Some of world's do-it-
yourself folks appear to be less detail-oriented than others. $350
later, the stove and oven both work.



On Mar 22, 11:45 am, wrote:
Thanks for all of the suggestions, folks. Now I just need to figure
out how not to get crushed by an electrician bill. Hopefully your
suggestions will allow me to get them in and out in no time. Or at
least sound like I know enough where they don't try to mess with me.

On Mar 22, 1:35 am, "Justin West" wrote:

On Mar 21, 4:26 pm, wrote:

He was not an electrician. He was an appliance repair man who is not
certified to do professional electrical work.

The circuit was not clearly tripped. It was still in the on position.
I flipped it off and then on to see if it would work and had no luck.

If I take a A/C Volt meter and measure from one hot leg to another hot
leg on a 200V system I should see 200V. If I only see 110V then I
know something has happened.

I can only forsee 2 possible problems:

1) There is a loose wire in the box you plug the range into
2) One of the 2 breakers is defective

If you can access the breakers:

Check the load side of each breaker with an A/C Volt meter. If you
read 200V at this point it is probably the plug end.
If your reading 110V then you have a breaker issue. Replace breaker,
or have a professional do so.

If your reading 200V at your plug, call the service person back and
beat with a rubber mallet. (won't necessarily get the problem
rectified, but you may feel better :P).