I've done this several times and this is something that just keeps eluding
me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for outlet
boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the measurments need to be
accurate by 1/8" all around for the job to look professional and for the
outlet plate to sit firmly. But when I go to do it, no matter how many
times I measure, I'm always off by 1/8" which puts one side 1/4" off and
another snug against the box. I'm a firm believer in measure once cut twice
(or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape measure which is
accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip on the forward edge it can be
off by 1/4" if you get the tape bowed.

Eigenvector wrote:
I've done this several times and this is something that just keeps
eluding me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for outlet
boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the measurments need
to be accurate by 1/8" all around for the job to look professional and
for the outlet plate to sit firmly. But when I go to do it, no matter
how many times I measure, I'm always off by 1/8" which puts one side
1/4" off and another snug against the box. I'm a firm believer in
measure once cut twice (or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape measure
which is accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip on the forward
edge it can be off by 1/4" if you get the tape bowed.

Measuring will get you there if you are absolutely consistent about it
but there are other ways to do it too. For example there are tools and
fixtures to allow you to do it more easily. This is one example of
several tools I've seen: http://www.handymark.net/instructions.html And
if you prefer power tools, one of the Roto-Zip tools will allow you to
make the cutout while following the edge of the box.

I have even done it with carbon paper (if you remember back that far)
and someone I worked with once told me that he had done the job by
dabbing his wife's lipstick around the box to mark the board.

--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
http://johnmcgaw.com

Measure with the tape measure you have. It would be best if it is
a wide, heavy blade like a Stanley. Always try to hang some one
piece of drywall that has no outs. Put the metal end of the tape
measure against the installed sheet and measure the left and right
side of the box, get fairly accurate numbers (1/8" or less). Do
the same for the top and bottom. Layout on the new sheet. Cut
INSIDE your marks (too tight), but angle the saw way to the
outside of the cut. The back side of the rock will be way too
big, the finish side will be almost too tight. You may need to
ease the cut to fit, but it will be easy to do in the thin section
left on the finish side.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
I've done this several times and this is something that just
keeps eluding me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for
outlet boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the
measurments need to be accurate by 1/8" all around for the job
to look professional and for the outlet plate to sit firmly.
But when I go to do it, no matter how many times I measure, I'm
always off by 1/8" which puts one side 1/4" off and another snug
against the box. I'm a firm believer in measure once cut twice
(or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape
measure which is accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip
on the forward edge it can be off by 1/4" if you get the tape
bowed.

Like Dan said, the biggest trick is to angle the saw away from the
center and cut to the inside of the line. Cut from the finished side.

We had a team of sheet rockers on our job that called out measurements
like......a heavy 9/16.



On Mar 17, 6:17 pm, "DanG" wrote:
Measure with the tape measure you have. It would be best if it is
a wide, heavy blade like a Stanley. Always try to hang some one
piece of drywall that has no outs. Put the metal end of the tape
measure against the installed sheet and measure the left and right
side of the box, get fairly accurate numbers (1/8" or less). Do
the same for the top and bottom. Layout on the new sheet. Cut
INSIDE your marks (too tight), but angle the saw way to the
outside of the cut. The back side of the rock will be way too
big, the finish side will be almost too tight. You may need to
ease the cut to fit, but it will be easy to do in the thin section
left on the finish side.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)


"Eigenvector" wrote in message

...



I've done this several times and this is something that just
keeps eluding me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for
outlet boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the
measurments need to be accurate by 1/8" all around for the job
to look professional and for the outlet plate to sit firmly.
But when I go to do it, no matter how many times I measure, I'm
always off by 1/8" which puts one side 1/4" off and another snug
against the box. I'm a firm believer in measure once cut twice
(or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape
measure which is accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip
on the forward edge it can be off by 1/4" if you get the tape
bowed.

Just a thought, if you're going to be doing this very often, it might
be worthwhile investing in a zip saw (rotozip or equivalent) and use a
guide blade. This is easy, quick, and super-accurate. Every box ends
up pretty much perfect.

good luck with your project!

"John McGaw" wrote in message
...
Eigenvector wrote:
I've done this several times and this is something that just keeps
eluding me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for outlet
boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the measurments need to
be accurate by 1/8" all around for the job to look professional and for
the outlet plate to sit firmly. But when I go to do it, no matter how
many times I measure, I'm always off by 1/8" which puts one side 1/4" off
and another snug against the box. I'm a firm believer in measure once
cut twice (or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape measure which
is accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip on the forward edge it
can be off by 1/4" if you get the tape bowed.

Measuring will get you there if you are absolutely consistent about it but
there are other ways to do it too. For example there are tools and
fixtures to allow you to do it more easily. This is one example of several
tools I've seen: http://www.handymark.net/instructions.html And if you
prefer power tools, one of the Roto-Zip tools will allow you to make the
cutout while following the edge of the box.

I have even done it with carbon paper (if you remember back that far) and
someone I worked with once told me that he had done the job by dabbing his
wife's lipstick around the box to mark the board.

--
John McGaw

Oh wow, I gotta get me one of those handymark tools. Thanks for the tip
man.

"DanG" wrote in message
...
Measure with the tape measure you have. It would be best if it is a wide,
heavy blade like a Stanley. Always try to hang some one piece of drywall
that has no outs. Put the metal end of the tape measure against the
installed sheet and measure the left and right side of the box, get fairly
accurate numbers (1/8" or less). Do the same for the top and bottom.
Layout on the new sheet. Cut INSIDE your marks (too tight), but angle the
saw way to the outside of the cut. The back side of the rock will be way
too big, the finish side will be almost too tight. You may need to ease
the cut to fit, but it will be easy to do in the thin section left on the
finish side.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .

That's not a bad idea I guess. It doesn't address the source of my
problems, which is that I have a tendency to measure 1/8 to 1/4" too long or
too short on one side. That's kind of made worse by the fact that, for
instance, I'm working with a cut piece of drywall. Like for instance the
piece that I was working on today was 62 1/2" long on a door frame that was
not level. So I take 4 measurements and believe I came up with equal
dimensions within an 1/8" but when I transfer that to the sheet, it comes
out off because my cut that I'm measuring from is not straight.

I think I'm beginning to get an appreciation for just how important accuracy
of your cuts is when doing drywall.


"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
I've done this several times and this is something that just keeps
eluding me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for outlet
boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the measurments need to
be accurate by 1/8" all around for the job to look professional and for
the outlet plate to sit firmly. But when I go to do it, no matter how
many times I measure, I'm always off by 1/8" which puts one side 1/4" off
and another snug against the box. I'm a firm believer in measure once
cut twice (or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape measure which
is accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip on the forward edge it
can be off by 1/4" if you get the tape bowed.

On Mar 17, 7:06 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
I've done this several times and this is something that just keeps eluding
me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for outlet
boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the measurments need to be
accurate by 1/8" all around for the job to look professional and for the
outlet plate to sit firmly. But when I go to do it, no matter how many
times I measure, I'm always off by 1/8" which puts one side 1/4" off and
another snug against the box. I'm a firm believer in measure once cut twice
(or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape measure which is
accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip on the forward edge it can be
off by 1/4" if you get the tape bowed.

There are tons of tricks. Best one - buy a Rotozip (or approved
equal). Then all you have to do is poke a hole in the middle of the
outlet box and run the Rotozip around the perimeter. Messy and noisy,
but very effective. Sell it on eBay when you no longer need it.

These are also very useful: http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-.../dp/B0007LE5T4

R

On Mar 17, 8:32 pm, "RicodJour" wrote:
On Mar 17, 7:06 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:

I've done this several times and this is something that just keeps eluding
me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for outlet
boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the measurments need to be
accurate by 1/8" all around for the job to look professional and for the
outlet plate to sit firmly. But when I go to do it, no matter how many
times I measure, I'm always off by 1/8" which puts one side 1/4" off and
another snug against the box. I'm a firm believer in measure once cut twice
(or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape measure which is
accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip on the forward edge it can be
off by 1/4" if you get the tape bowed.

There are tons of tricks. Best one - buy a Rotozip (or approved
equal). Then all you have to do is poke a hole in the middle of the
outlet box and run the Rotozip around the perimeter. Messy and noisy,
but very effective. Sell it on eBay when you no longer need it.

These are also very useful:http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Level-.../dp/B0007LE5T4

R

One tip I have is that when you are measuring for an outlet box near a
corner (or into the next sheet) , you will butt your tape into the
corner. But you usually but your tape harder than the sheet will
actually fit because of out of plumb/out of squareness , humps or bows
or whatever. So pull the tape back slightly to allow for a little
gappage in the corner. No need to measure in multiple places.

A Rotozip is a good idea. But you will screw up a number of outlets
before you get it figured out. You have to run it on the outside of
the box, and keeping the bit riding on the outlet can take a little
getting used to. If it is a small job, you won't have enough time to
really get the hang of it, so you will wind up botching it up just as
bad as if you cut them by hand.

Real men buy their own tube of lipstick and keep it in their tool
box.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"John McGaw" wrote in message
...
:
: Measuring will get you there if you are absolutely consistent
about it
: but there are other ways to do it too. For example there are
tools and
: fixtures to allow you to do it more easily. This is one example
of
: several tools I've seen:
http://www.handymark.net/instructions.html And
: if you prefer power tools, one of the Roto-Zip tools will allow
you to
: make the cutout while following the edge of the box.
:
: I have even done it with carbon paper (if you remember back
that far)
: and someone I worked with once told me that he had done the job
by
: dabbing his wife's lipstick around the box to mark the board.
:
: --
: John McGaw
: [Knoxville, TN, USA]
: http://johnmcgaw.com

On 18 Mar 2007 05:39:42 -0700, "marson" wrote:


A Rotozip is a good idea. But you will screw up a number of outlets
before you get it figured out. You have to run it on the outside of
the box, and keeping the bit riding on the outlet can take a little

What about traciing a line around the box and then trying to cut that?

getting used to. If it is a small job, you won't have enough time to
really get the hang of it, so you will wind up botching it up just as
bad as if you cut them by hand.

marson wrote:

A Rotozip is a good idea. But you will screw up a number of outlets
before you get it figured out. You have to run it on the outside of
the box, and keeping the bit riding on the outlet can take a little
getting used to. If it is a small job, you won't have enough time to
really get the hang of it, so you will wind up botching it up just as
bad as if you cut them by hand.

The Rotozip's aren't difficult to learn. If you rush anything, you'll
screw it up.

With the Rotozip, poke a hole where you marked the approximate center
of the box, move the tool laterally until you hit the inside edge of
the box, lift the Rotozip up and over the edge of the box slowly, push
back in until the shoe is flush with the drywall, reverse pressure so
you're pushing towards the inside of the box and move the tool around
the perimeter. Slow and steady and it shouldn't be a problem for even
a beginner.

Wear ear plugs and a dust mask.

R

On 19 Mar 2007 07:13:39 -0700, "RicodJour"
wrote:

marson wrote:

A Rotozip is a good idea. But you will screw up a number of outlets
before you get it figured out. You have to run it on the outside of
the box, and keeping the bit riding on the outlet can take a little
getting used to. If it is a small job, you won't have enough time to
really get the hang of it, so you will wind up botching it up just as
bad as if you cut them by hand.

The Rotozip's aren't difficult to learn. If you rush anything, you'll
screw it up.

With the Rotozip, poke a hole where you marked the approximate center
of the box, move the tool laterally until you hit the inside edge of
the box, lift the Rotozip up and over the edge of the box slowly, push
back in until the shoe is flush with the drywall, reverse pressure so
you're pushing towards the inside of the box and move the tool around
the perimeter. Slow and steady and it shouldn't be a problem for even
a beginner.

Now I get it.

Wear ear plugs and a dust mask.

R

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 09:21:19 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Real men buy their own tube of lipstick and keep it in their tool
box.

I have a couple bottles of red nail polish I use for marking things.
Each comes with its own brush.

Don't tell anyone.

On Mar 17, 5:06 pm, "Eigenvector" wrote:
I've done this several times and this is something that just keeps eluding
me.

What is the trick to measuring accurate drywall cutout holes for outlet
boxes? The big issue that I seem to have is that the measurments need to be
accurate by 1/8" all around for the job to look professional and for the
outlet plate to sit firmly. But when I go to do it, no matter how many
times I measure, I'm always off by 1/8" which puts one side 1/4" off and
another snug against the box. I'm a firm believer in measure once cut twice
(or is that measure twice cut once...)

Are there better tools for measuring it? I'm using my tape measure which is
accurate but unwieldy and with that metal lip on the forward edge it can be
off by 1/4" if you get the tape bowed.


This method gives you the most accurate cutouts. I had a window screen
I wasn't using to which I attached a piece of clear plastic sheeting.
Next, I found a reference point on the screen relative to the drywall.
This can be a corner, the long side or short side of the screen. Lay
the screen on the wall and use a marker to draw the outlet on the
plastic. Take the screen to the drywall, line up to the reference
point, and using a pushpin or nail, push holes in the drywall to
outline the corners of the outlet box. Cut the drywall with your
drywall saw.

The principle used here is transference. However unlike using lipstick
or carbon paper, you do not have to lift the drywall to find the
outlet box. (Think of cutting an outlet box for a ceiling fixture.)
The pushpin outline of the outlet box on the drywall is exact. If you
want an exact cutout, cut outside the outline of the outlet box. This
eliminates the problem in using a Robozip that cuts the inside of the
outlet box but leaves the thickness of the outlet box to deal with.
The window screen I have is made of metal and is semi-rigid. However
any semi-rigid frame will do. I have even considered making a frame
with pvc tubing and 90 degree corners. The tubing can be of different
lengths and if the corners are not glued, they can be interchanged
with different lengths as needed. Obviously the plastic sheet can be
used separately mutiple times or mutiple outlet boxes for the same
drywall panel can be marked at the same time.

wrote:

The principle used here is transference. However unlike using lipstick
or carbon paper, you do not have to lift the drywall to find the
outlet box. (Think of cutting an outlet box for a ceiling fixture.)
The pushpin outline of the outlet box on the drywall is exact. If you
want an exact cutout, cut outside the outline of the outlet box. This
eliminates the problem in using a Robozip that cuts the inside of the
outlet box but leaves the thickness of the outlet box to deal with.

You're fabricating a "problem" out of thin air!

You don't cut around the interior of the box, you cut around the
_outside_ of the box. The 1/8" zip bit leaves a 1/8" gap around the
outside of the box allowing some wiggle room.

R

On Mar 19, 11:57 am, "RicodJour" wrote:
wrote:

The principle used here is transference. However unlike using lipstick
or carbon paper, you do not have to lift the drywall to find the
outlet box. (Think of cutting an outlet box for a ceiling fixture.)
The pushpin outline of the outlet box on the drywall is exact. If you
want an exact cutout, cut outside the outline of the outlet box. This
eliminates the problem in using a Robozip that cuts the inside of the
outlet box but leaves the thickness of the outlet box to deal with.

You're fabricating a "problem" out of thin air!

You don't cut around the interior of the box, you cut around the
_outside_ of the box. The 1/8" zip bit leaves a 1/8" gap around the
outside of the box allowing some wiggle room.

R

Maybe you should remember your own posting from March 19:

There are tons of tricks. Best one - buy a Rotozip (or approved
equal). Then all you have to do is poke a hole in the middle of the
outlet box and run the Rotozip around the perimeter. Messy and
noisy,
but very effective. Sell it on eBay when you no longer need it.

Poke a hole in the middle of the outlet box and cut around the
perimeter? Did you really mean to poke a hole around the outside of
the outlet box and cut around the outside of the perimeter. Good luck
finding where to start the hole.

You've never used a RoTozip (that you can't spell) have you?

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:
www.lightsout.org




wrote in message
oups.com...
This
eliminates the problem in using a Robozip that cuts the inside of the
outlet box but leaves the thickness of the outlet box to deal with.

Again, it's obvious you've never used one. You punch in in the middle of
the box, move to the edge, jump outside and cut clockwise. Research before
typing. It's like engage brain before speaking.

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:
www.lightsout.org




"Edge" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Mar 19, 11:57 am, "RicodJour" wrote:
wrote:

The principle used here is transference. However unlike using lipstick
or carbon paper, you do not have to lift the drywall to find the
outlet box. (Think of cutting an outlet box for a ceiling fixture.)
The pushpin outline of the outlet box on the drywall is exact. If you
want an exact cutout, cut outside the outline of the outlet box. This
eliminates the problem in using a Robozip that cuts the inside of the
outlet box but leaves the thickness of the outlet box to deal with.

You're fabricating a "problem" out of thin air!

You don't cut around the interior of the box, you cut around the
_outside_ of the box. The 1/8" zip bit leaves a 1/8" gap around the
outside of the box allowing some wiggle room.

R

Maybe you should remember your own posting from March 19:

There are tons of tricks. Best one - buy a Rotozip (or approved
equal). Then all you have to do is poke a hole in the middle of the
outlet box and run the Rotozip around the perimeter. Messy and
noisy,
but very effective. Sell it on eBay when you no longer need it.

Poke a hole in the middle of the outlet box and cut around the
perimeter? Did you really mean to poke a hole around the outside of
the outlet box and cut around the outside of the perimeter. Good luck
finding where to start the hole.

On Mar 19, 3:44 pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote:
Again, it's obvious you've never used one. You punch in in the middle of
the box, move to the edge, jump outside and cut clockwise. Research before
typing. It's like engage brain before speaking.

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:www.lightsout.org

"Edge" wrote in message

oups.com...

On Mar 19, 11:57 am, "RicodJour" wrote:
wrote:

The principle used here is transference. However unlike using lipstick
or carbon paper, you do not have to lift the drywall to find the
outlet box. (Think of cutting an outlet box for a ceiling fixture.)
The pushpin outline of the outlet box on the drywall is exact. If you
want an exact cutout, cut outside the outline of the outlet box. This
eliminates the problem in using a Robozip that cuts the inside of the
outlet box but leaves the thickness of the outlet box to deal with.

You're fabricating a "problem" out of thin air!

You don't cut around the interior of the box, you cut around the
_outside_ of the box. The 1/8" zip bit leaves a 1/8" gap around the
outside of the box allowing some wiggle room.

R

Maybe you should remember your own posting from March 19:

There are tons of tricks. Best one - buy a Rotozip (or approved
equal). Then all you have to do is poke a hole in the middle of the
outlet box and run the Rotozip around the perimeter. Messy and
noisy,
but very effective. Sell it on eBay when you no longer need it.

Poke a hole in the middle of the outlet box and cut around the
perimeter? Did you really mean to poke a hole around the outside of
the outlet box and cut around the outside of the perimeter. Good luck
finding where to start the hole.

Well, of course I personally wouldn't hang drywall without a rotozip
handy (although I know pros who prefer to cut their boxes by hand).
But if a rookie homeowner is hanging ten sheets of drywall, I don't
really think it's great advice. I botched some outlets when I first
picked up a rotozip, and have seen other rookies do it too. There are
a few ways to screw up--not hitting the inside of the box, wandering
off of the box, not having the sheet tight to the box...these lessons
generally get learned on the job, and by the time he is done with his
10 sheets, he will have a half dozen boxes to fix, just like if he had
saved his money and cut them by hand. Plus his hair and clothes will
be full of gypsum dust.

Amen. I own the DeWalt version of the RotoZip. I use a jab saw
and the tool stays in the box. On 5/8 rock I much prefer cutting
with saw.

With the 1/4" carbide burr the tool is great in ceramic tile,
wonder board, Durock, etc.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"marson" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Mar 19, 3:44 pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote:
Again, it's obvious you've never used one. You punch in in the
middle of
the box, move to the edge, jump outside and cut clockwise.
Research before
typing. It's like engage brain before speaking.

--
Steve Barker

YOU should be the one
controlling YOUR car.
Check out:www.lightsout.org

"Edge" wrote in message

oups.com...

On Mar 19, 11:57 am, "RicodJour"
wrote:
wrote:

The principle used here is transference. However unlike
using lipstick
or carbon paper, you do not have to lift the drywall to
find the
outlet box. (Think of cutting an outlet box for a ceiling
fixture.)
The pushpin outline of the outlet box on the drywall is
exact. If you
want an exact cutout, cut outside the outline of the
outlet box. This
eliminates the problem in using a Robozip that cuts the
inside of the
outlet box but leaves the thickness of the outlet box to
deal with.

You're fabricating a "problem" out of thin air!

You don't cut around the interior of the box, you cut around
the
_outside_ of the box. The 1/8" zip bit leaves a 1/8" gap
around the
outside of the box allowing some wiggle room.

R

Maybe you should remember your own posting from March 19:

There are tons of tricks. Best one - buy a Rotozip (or
approved
equal). Then all you have to do is poke a hole in the
middle of the
outlet box and run the Rotozip around the perimeter. Messy
and
noisy,
but very effective. Sell it on eBay when you no longer need
it.

Poke a hole in the middle of the outlet box and cut around
the
perimeter? Did you really mean to poke a hole around the
outside of
the outlet box and cut around the outside of the perimeter.
Good luck
finding where to start the hole.

Well, of course I personally wouldn't hang drywall without a
rotozip
handy (although I know pros who prefer to cut their boxes by
hand).
But if a rookie homeowner is hanging ten sheets of drywall, I
don't
really think it's great advice. I botched some outlets when I
first
picked up a rotozip, and have seen other rookies do it too.
There are
a few ways to screw up--not hitting the inside of the box,
wandering
off of the box, not having the sheet tight to the box...these
lessons
generally get learned on the job, and by the time he is done
with his
10 sheets, he will have a half dozen boxes to fix, just like if
he had
saved his money and cut them by hand. Plus his hair and clothes
will
be full of gypsum dust.

Edge wrote:
On Mar 19, 11:57 am, "RicodJour" wrote:
wrote:

The principle used here is transference. However unlike using lipstick
or carbon paper, you do not have to lift the drywall to find the
outlet box. (Think of cutting an outlet box for a ceiling fixture.)
The pushpin outline of the outlet box on the drywall is exact. If you
want an exact cutout, cut outside the outline of the outlet box. This
eliminates the problem in using a Robozip that cuts the inside of the
outlet box but leaves the thickness of the outlet box to deal with.

You're fabricating a "problem" out of thin air!

You don't cut around the interior of the box, you cut around the
_outside_ of the box. The 1/8" zip bit leaves a 1/8" gap around the
outside of the box allowing some wiggle room.

R

Maybe you should remember your own posting from March 19:

There are tons of tricks. Best one - buy a Rotozip (or approved
equal). Then all you have to do is poke a hole in the middle of the
outlet box and run the Rotozip around the perimeter. Messy and
noisy,
but very effective. Sell it on eBay when you no longer need it.

Poke a hole in the middle of the outlet box and cut around the
perimeter? Did you really mean to poke a hole around the outside of
the outlet box and cut around the outside of the perimeter. Good luck
finding where to start the hole.

Outside of the perimeter? Is that the opposite of the interior of the
inside?
I used a word that is quite specific - perimeter.
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=perimeter

Finding the starting point - the center of the box - is really not
hard. Mark a spot on the floor indicating the rough centerline of
each outlet box. They're all the same height, or should be, so you
only have to know the average height of the box centerline. You have
1" of lateral leeway and 2" of vertical.

R

On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 09:21:19 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Real men buy their own tube of lipstick and keep it in their tool
box.

I'm a real man, but I keep my lipstick in my purse !
My gay boyfriend gave me my snakeskin purse for valentines day, but I
bought my own lipstick. The color is "ruby frost", and he loves that
color kissed onto his weenie.

On 17 Mar 2007 18:32:03 -0700, "RicodJour"
wrote:

but very effective. Sell it on eBay when you no longer need it.


You'll get 99 cents on Ebay, but just add $79.99 shipping and
handling.

On 19 Mar 2007 07:13:39 -0700, "RicodJour"
wrote:

marson wrote:

A Rotozip is a good idea. But you will screw up a number of outlets
before you get it figured out. You have to run it on the outside of
the box, and keeping the bit riding on the outlet can take a little
getting used to. If it is a small job, you won't have enough time to
really get the hang of it, so you will wind up botching it up just as
bad as if you cut them by hand.

The Rotozip's aren't difficult to learn. If you rush anything, you'll
screw it up.

With the Rotozip, poke a hole where you marked the approximate center
of the box, move the tool laterally until you hit the inside edge of
the box, lift the Rotozip up and over the edge of the box slowly, push
back in until the shoe is flush with the drywall, reverse pressure so
you're pushing towards the inside of the box and move the tool around
the perimeter. Slow and steady and it shouldn't be a problem for even
a beginner.

Wear ear plugs and a dust mask.

R


And dont chop up the wires in the box.