I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. Being in
very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
tubing. Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
per foot, it's not even close. Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". I suspect
somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. The guys that did the
work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
to how, so... what to do? I thought at first maybe there was some
leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
embedded. I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
too worried about appearance. Help!

--
Steve Barker
Paola, KS
BNSF (BN) Fort Scott Sub MP 50
Nikon CP 995
www.barkerranch.net



"d_g_peterson" wrote in message
...
I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. Being in
very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
tubing. Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
per foot, it's not even close. Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". I suspect
somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. The guys that did the
work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
to how, so... what to do? I thought at first maybe there was some
leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
embedded. I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
too worried about appearance. Help!

Unless they're willing to assume the entire cost of ripping it out, and
replacing it all including the tubing work, then I'd leave it alone. Most
slabs won't run toward a drain, and I personally sure as hell wouldn't want
a 2 1/2" drop in my floor in 14'. I'd feel like a crazy house. A good foam
squeegee is what you need.

--
Steve Barker



"d_g_peterson" wrote in message
...
I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. Being in
very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
tubing. Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
per foot, it's not even close. Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". I suspect
somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. The guys that did the
work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
to how, so... what to do? I thought at first maybe there was some
leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
embedded. I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
too worried about appearance. Help!

On Feb 18, 2:22�pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote:
Unless they're willing to assume the entire cost of ripping it out, and
replacing it all including the tubing work, then I'd leave it alone. *Most
slabs won't run toward a drain, and I personally sure as hell wouldn't want
a 2 1/2" drop in my floor in 14'. *I'd feel like a crazy house. *A good foam
squeegee is what you need.

--
Steve Barker

"d_g_peterson" wrote in message

...



I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. *Being in
very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
tubing. *Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
per foot, it's not even close. *Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". *I suspect
somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. *The guys that did the
work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
to how, so... what to do? *I thought at first maybe there was some
leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
embedded. *I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
too worried about appearance. *Help!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well my first home had a garage floor drain and that type of slope, it
was a non issue.

sadly I think ripping it up and starting over is all thats available

If yoiur willing to live with it a BIG discount is due from the
contractor.......

I had a imiliar issue with my asphalt driveway they sloped it the
wrong way and left some puddles which are a hazard every winter,
creating icy patches..........

I would have them rip it up and start over including all new heat
lines. Its a cost of doing business for the contractor and they
WOULDNT do it again!

"d_g_peterson" wrote in message
...
I thought at first maybe there was some
leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
embedded.

Go to http://www.mcmaster.com/ and page 1977. Problem solved.

You plan on raising pigs or weekly mud wrestling or something?

You are lucky they screwed up. Most people want a level floor in the
garage.





On Sun, 18 Feb 2007 13:09:39 -0600, d_g_peterson
wrote:

I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. Being in
very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
tubing. Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
per foot, it's not even close. Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". I suspect
somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. The guys that did the
work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
to how, so... what to do? I thought at first maybe there was some
leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
embedded. I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
too worried about appearance. Help!

Well, I am already doing the squeegee bit. However, regarding WANTING
a level floor, I'm sure some people want a level floor, but in this
garage, I don't. I want a floor that drains. This is a second garage
(and very expensive, better interior finish than my house,
tongue&groove, cathedral ceiling, etc.). Our other garage is also
infloor heat and it drains great. Well worth the "sacrifice" of a
pitched floor, (which is barely noticeable anyway, given it's packed
with vehicles, etc.). We live in the Superior snow belt in
northwoods,WI, and the main intent for this building is snow melt for
a snow plow, snowmobiles and 4 wheelers. Since the floor is heated,
the standing water that sits on floor turns the building into a SAUNA
quickly. All the wood swells, windows totally soaked with
condensation, etc. Spending an hour squeegeeing about a half inch of
standing water across a 24x28 floor every time snow-covered vehicles
are pulled in is not what I intended when I paid to have the job done.
Was honestly hoping somebody would confirm that the idea of power
grinding was not unheard of, since this was recommended by a large
supply house/rental center that caters to the concrete contractor
trade. If I have to live the problem, so be it.

Well if your tubing is on top of your rebar (like it should be) and IF the
rebar got positioned properly, you don't have margin enough to grind an inch
and a half off. I'm afraid you'd be dangerously close to the tubing, and
once you even expose a bit of it, you're screwed. So unless there's some
way to 100% confirm the tubings depth, I wouldn't go the grinding direction.

As a side question, what are you heating your radiant floors with?

--
Steve Barker



"d_g_peterson" wrote in message
...
Well, I am already doing the squeegee bit. However, regarding WANTING
a level floor, I'm sure some people want a level floor, but in this
garage, I don't. I want a floor that drains. This is a second garage
(and very expensive, better interior finish than my house,
tongue&groove, cathedral ceiling, etc.). Our other garage is also
infloor heat and it drains great. Well worth the "sacrifice" of a
pitched floor, (which is barely noticeable anyway, given it's packed
with vehicles, etc.). We live in the Superior snow belt in
northwoods,WI, and the main intent for this building is snow melt for
a snow plow, snowmobiles and 4 wheelers. Since the floor is heated,
the standing water that sits on floor turns the building into a SAUNA
quickly. All the wood swells, windows totally soaked with
condensation, etc. Spending an hour squeegeeing about a half inch of
standing water across a 24x28 floor every time snow-covered vehicles
are pulled in is not what I intended when I paid to have the job done.
Was honestly hoping somebody would confirm that the idea of power
grinding was not unheard of, since this was recommended by a large
supply house/rental center that caters to the concrete contractor
trade. If I have to live the problem, so be it.

On Sun, 18 Feb 2007 22:09:21 -0600, d_g_peterson
wrote:

Was honestly hoping somebody would confirm that the idea of power
grinding was not unheard of, since this was recommended by a large
supply house/rental center that caters to the concrete contractor
trade. If I have to live the problem, so be it.


At my last place of work there was a large concrete pad used for
storing blowout preventers for oil rigs. They're real heavy stuff.
So the pad sank into the ground over time. To expand the facility and
build a factory sized shed over it they had to raise the pad to grade
level again. This was done by grouting. A heavy duty truck drilled
holes to get under the pad then injected concrete (or maybe something
else) until the pad was grade level again. There must have been a
drain trough leading into a drainhole in the middle of the pad
somewhere because servicing those blowout preventers involved steam
cleaning, sand balsting and pressure washing. Anyway look under
oilfield servicing groups to find if there is a concrete grouting
service company to do the type of work you need.

On Feb 18, 10:53 pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote:
Well if your tubing is on top of your rebar (like it should be) and IF the
rebar got positioned properly, you don't have margin enough to grind an inch
and a half off. I'm afraid you'd be dangerously close to the tubing, and
once you even expose a bit of it, you're screwed. So unless there's some
way to 100% confirm the tubings depth, I wouldn't go the grinding direction.

As a side question, what are you heating your radiant floors with?

--
Steve Barker

"d_g_peterson" wrote in message

I have 3 detached buildings all with same set-up of in-floor radiant.
Heat source are plain old cheapo 40 gal LP gas water heaters, plumbed
like closed system boilers, ie. outlet at hot water out, return at
original drain cock, taco pump, expansion tank, air scoop, etc. 3
circuits, tight spacing ~9" at perimeters, widen to 12" near centers.
Recently for about a week straight, maximum daytime temp outside here
was about -5 to -10 and inside temp in buildings never dropped below
64. 1 500 gal lp tank serves 2 building, and is usually good for
entire winter.

Thanks for the detailed info. You didn't mention the dimensions of the
buildings. I've got a 30x40 and am going to attempt to keep it above
freezing with solar panels. I've got 4 - 300' circuits and one that's
about 120'. The fuel consumption you mentioned certainly doesn't seem
excessive though. Also, I'm curious to what part of the country you're in.

thanks!

--
Steve Barker


wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 18, 10:53 pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote:
Well if your tubing is on top of your rebar (like it should be) and IF
the
rebar got positioned properly, you don't have margin enough to grind an
inch
and a half off. I'm afraid you'd be dangerously close to the tubing, and
once you even expose a bit of it, you're screwed. So unless there's some
way to 100% confirm the tubings depth, I wouldn't go the grinding
direction.

As a side question, what are you heating your radiant floors with?

--
Steve Barker

"d_g_peterson" wrote in message

I have 3 detached buildings all with same set-up of in-floor radiant.
Heat source are plain old cheapo 40 gal LP gas water heaters, plumbed
like closed system boilers, ie. outlet at hot water out, return at
original drain cock, taco pump, expansion tank, air scoop, etc. 3
circuits, tight spacing ~9" at perimeters, widen to 12" near centers.
Recently for about a week straight, maximum daytime temp outside here
was about -5 to -10 and inside temp in buildings never dropped below
64. 1 500 gal lp tank serves 2 building, and is usually good for
entire winter.

Hello,

I'm having the same problem. I can see two solutions:

- Putting a big "carpet" under the car.
- Paste a kind of "rubber" around the car. That way, the water will
not go everywhere in the garage. Does this product exist and can be
bought somewhere?

Thank you,
Pascal ;

On Feb 18, 2:09 pm, d_g_peterson wrote:
I have a drainage problem in a newly poured garage floor. Being in
very rural area I had only 1 or 2 contractors to choose from. The
contractor that I hired poured the 4' stem wall, did a great job, but
then failed to follow thru with the slab for amost a month. Kept
saying they were backed up with work. The carpenters that built the
garage claimed to have experience in pouring garage floors, so I
agreed to let them pour. Bad Idea. The floor is 24x28, is 5 inches
thick, and has drain in center. The floor is heated, hydronic pex
tubing. Although I asked that the pitch be set to between 1/8 and 1/4
per foot, it's not even close. Using a laser, I measured at MOST only
1 inch drop from perimeter (about 14') to drain center. My math tells
me that 2 1/2 or more is what I should have. No water drains at all
from any point, and there are several "duck ponds". I suspect
somebody was over-zealous with a power trowel. The guys that did the
work are willing to make good, but I don't think they have a clue as
to how, so... what to do? I thought at first maybe there was some
leveling product or something that could be troweled, but after some
googling I get the impression this won't work (wont stick, will crack,
etc.). The responsible party seems to think the only viable option is
to grind the slab to the correct pitch. Ok, but I am worried about
cutting the hydronic tubing, not knowing exactly how deep it is
embedded. I planned on coating the floor with an epoxy paint, so not
too worried about appearance. Help!