Well if your tubing is on top of your rebar (like it should be) and IF the
rebar got positioned properly, you don't have margin enough to grind an inch
and a half off. I'm afraid you'd be dangerously close to the tubing, and
once you even expose a bit of it, you're screwed. So unless there's some
way to 100% confirm the tubings depth, I wouldn't go the grinding direction.

As a side question, what are you heating your radiant floors with?

--
Steve Barker



"d_g_peterson" wrote in message
...
Well, I am already doing the squeegee bit. However, regarding WANTING
a level floor, I'm sure some people want a level floor, but in this
garage, I don't. I want a floor that drains. This is a second garage
(and very expensive, better interior finish than my house,
tongue&groove, cathedral ceiling, etc.). Our other garage is also
infloor heat and it drains great. Well worth the "sacrifice" of a
pitched floor, (which is barely noticeable anyway, given it's packed
with vehicles, etc.). We live in the Superior snow belt in
northwoods,WI, and the main intent for this building is snow melt for
a snow plow, snowmobiles and 4 wheelers. Since the floor is heated,
the standing water that sits on floor turns the building into a SAUNA
quickly. All the wood swells, windows totally soaked with
condensation, etc. Spending an hour squeegeeing about a half inch of
standing water across a 24x28 floor every time snow-covered vehicles
are pulled in is not what I intended when I paid to have the job done.
Was honestly hoping somebody would confirm that the idea of power
grinding was not unheard of, since this was recommended by a large
supply house/rental center that caters to the concrete contractor
trade. If I have to live the problem, so be it.