The floor has a gradient. I built on this floor a cement base( or you
can call it a raise platform usually for placing a kitchen cabinet on
it, so that the cabinet footing will not come into contact with water
when I wash the floor)

Now my resulting cement base follows the gradient of the orignal
floor. I intend to tile it up. That means that I have the final chance
to change the gradient to a perfect level. This can be done when I put
on the tiles on the cement base and level the tiles to a perfect level
instead of a gradient.

I am tempted to just opt for whichever provide the most ease of work.
Any advise?

Thanks?

In article .com, "a1esta" wrote:
The floor has a gradient. I built on this floor a cement base( or you
can call it a raise platform usually for placing a kitchen cabinet on
it, so that the cabinet footing will not come into contact with water
when I wash the floor)

A wooden platform would have been easier to build -- and easier to change in
the future. Somebody's going to want to remodel that kitchen some day.

Now my resulting cement base follows the gradient of the orignal
floor. I intend to tile it up. That means that I have the final chance
to change the gradient to a perfect level. This can be done when I put
on the tiles on the cement base and level the tiles to a perfect level
instead of a gradient.

I am tempted to just opt for whichever provide the most ease of work.
Any advise?

Yes. It does matter if the base cabinets are not level. The cabinets
themselves don't really matter, but your cooking surface matters very much.

The cooking surface needs to be as close to level as possible, so that sauces,
and oils for frying or sauteeing, cover the bottom of the pan to a uniform
depth. If the cooking surface is not level, it's very difficult to prepare
sauces properly: while waiting for a sauce to thicken on the low side of the
tilt (where it's deeper), you're burning it on the high side (where it's too
shallow). Same goes for frying and sauteeing.

Any cooktop that mounts directly onto the countertop will be only as close to
level as the countertop.

A free-standing range can be levelled independently of the countertop, of
course -- but if the countertops are not level, and the range is, it will be
obvious. It'll look like a sloppy, amateur job of installation.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

On Feb 14, 9:35 am, "a1esta" wrote:
The floor has a gradient. I built on this floor a cement base( or you
can call it a raise platform usually for placing a kitchen cabinet on
it, so that the cabinet footing will not come into contact with water
when I wash the floor)

Now my resulting cement base follows the gradient of the orignal
floor. I intend to tile it up. That means that I have the final chance
to change the gradient to a perfect level. This can be done when I put
on the tiles on the cement base and level the tiles to a perfect level
instead of a gradient.

I am tempted to just opt for whichever provide the most ease of work.
Any advise?

Thanks?


Assuming countertops are going on top of the cabinets, they should be
level. That means either you have to have the cabinets level, or
else screw around shimming the countertops, which doesn't sound
advisable. Plus, we don't know what the "gradient" is. Why
didn't you make the cabinet base level when you poured the concrete?

"a1esta" wrote in message
I am tempted to just opt for whichever provide the most ease of work.
Any advise?

Doing it right is not always the easiest, but it is always "right". Get it
level. You'll appreciate it later.

"a1esta" wrote in message
oups.com...
The floor has a gradient. I built on this floor a cement base( or you
can call it a raise platform usually for placing a kitchen cabinet on
it, so that the cabinet footing will not come into contact with water
when I wash the floor)

Now my resulting cement base follows the gradient of the orignal
floor. I intend to tile it up. That means that I have the final chance
to change the gradient to a perfect level. This can be done when I put
on the tiles on the cement base and level the tiles to a perfect level
instead of a gradient.

I had an addition put on, and they didn't get a floor level. It didn't much
matter, but it drove me crazy until I had it leveled.

a1esta wrote:
The floor has a gradient. I built on this floor a cement base( or you
can call it a raise platform usually for placing a kitchen cabinet on
it, so that the cabinet footing will not come into contact with water
when I wash the floor)

Now my resulting cement base follows the gradient of the orignal
floor. I intend to tile it up. That means that I have the final chance
to change the gradient to a perfect level. This can be done when I put
on the tiles on the cement base and level the tiles to a perfect level
instead of a gradient.

I am tempted to just opt for whichever provide the most ease of work.
Any advise?

Thanks?

Sounds like a plan. Be sure you have all tiles at same height. I
watched a neighbor carefully check the level of all the pavers he
cemented to the sidewalk - unfortunately, he had each at a tad different
height so he gets puddles.

You could just run a bead of caulk along base of cabinet, or wring out
the mop; so much easier )

I think I'd try leveling shims 'till you finish it

jvm


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. net...
In article .com,
"a1esta" wrote:
The floor has a gradient. I built on this floor a cement base( or you
can call it a raise platform usually for placing a kitchen cabinet on
it, so that the cabinet footing will not come into contact with water
when I wash the floor)

A wooden platform would have been easier to build -- and easier to change
in
the future. Somebody's going to want to remodel that kitchen some day.

Now my resulting cement base follows the gradient of the orignal
floor. I intend to tile it up. That means that I have the final chance
to change the gradient to a perfect level. This can be done when I put
on the tiles on the cement base and level the tiles to a perfect level
instead of a gradient.

I am tempted to just opt for whichever provide the most ease of work.
Any advise?

Yes. It does matter if the base cabinets are not level. The cabinets
themselves don't really matter, but your cooking surface matters very
much.

The cooking surface needs to be as close to level as possible, so that
sauces,
and oils for frying or sauteeing, cover the bottom of the pan to a uniform
depth. If the cooking surface is not level, it's very difficult to prepare
sauces properly: while waiting for a sauce to thicken on the low side of
the
tilt (where it's deeper), you're burning it on the high side (where it's
too
shallow). Same goes for frying and sauteeing.

Any cooktop that mounts directly onto the countertop will be only as close
to
level as the countertop.

A free-standing range can be levelled independently of the countertop, of
course -- but if the countertops are not level, and the range is, it will
be
obvious. It'll look like a sloppy, amateur job of installation.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

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