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#1
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
What tie should I use to attach joists to a beam sitting on top of the
joist. I know I could put it in flush with the joist and just use a regular joist hanger , but I would like to put the beam on top. The joists are 2x6s and the beam is a 4*12. |
#2
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 8, 10:11 pm, "Ed" wrote:
What tie should I use to attach joists to a beam sitting on top of the joist. I know I could put it in flush with the joist and just use a regular joist hanger , but I would like to put the beam on top. The joists are 2x6s and the beam is a 4*12. This is an unusual situation--I doubt there is a piece of hardware made specifically for this. Simpson strong tie sells heavy duty twisted straps that would work, though i don't think they are made for that purpose (google it). If you are dealing with a building inspector, they might want to see it engineered. |
#3
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 8, 11:11 pm, "Ed" wrote:
What tie should I use to attach joists to a beam sitting on top of the joist. I know I could put it in flush with the joist and just use a regular joist hanger , but I would like to put the beam on top. The joists are 2x6s and the beam is a 4*12. A 'hurricane' strap would do it (the ones for connecting rafters to top-plates), but you could probably just toenail it. This sounds unusual, why are you putting a beam *on top* of joists? A beam indicates it will be carrying a load so the joists would have to be supported to carry the beam. A 2x6 joist can't even span 10' @ 16"OC, nevermind carrying a beam and additional load. http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...rcalcstyle.asp Hope you have an architect or better an engineer involved. |
#4
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 9, 8:18 am, "RayV" wrote:
On Feb 8, 11:11 pm, "Ed" wrote: What tie should I use to attach joists to a beam sitting on top of the joist. I know I could put it in flush with the joist and just use a regular joist hanger , but I would like to put the beam on top. The joists are 2x6s and the beam is a 4*12. A 'hurricane' strap would do it (the ones for connecting rafters to top-plates), but you could probably just toenail it. This sounds unusual, why are you putting a beam *on top* of joists? A beam indicates it will be carrying a load so the joists would have to be supported to carry the beam. A 2x6 joist can't even span 10' @ 16"OC, nevermind carrying a beam and additional load.http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...rcalcstyle.asp Hope you have an architect or better an engineer involved. I think he wants to hang the joists from the beam- Ed, please clarify. Dave |
#5
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 9, 8:39 am, wrote:
On Feb 9, 8:18 am, "RayV" wrote: On Feb 8, 11:11 pm, "Ed" wrote: What tie should I use to attach joists to a beam sitting on top of the joist. I know I could put it in flush with the joist and just use a regular joist hanger , but I would like to put the beam on top. The joists are 2x6s and the beam is a 4*12. A 'hurricane' strap would do it (the ones for connecting rafters to top-plates), but you could probably just toenail it. This sounds unusual, why are you putting a beam *on top* of joists? A beam indicates it will be carrying a load so the joists would have to be supported to carry the beam. A 2x6 joist can't even span 10' @ 16"OC, nevermind carrying a beam and additional load.http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...rcalcstyle.asp Hope you have an architect or better an engineer involved. I think he wants to hang the joists from the beam- Ed, please clarify. Dave- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - That was my take on it too. Using normal terminology, beams support joists, not the other way around. |
#6
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
I imagine what the OP is doing is removing a load bearing wall and does
not want to put the beam in the room, but in the attic instead, above the rafters/joists. I have seen it done before, but never paid attention to how it was attatched. First, I would go to the Simpson section at HD/Lowes and check them out. They have fasteners for nearly every imagineable use-- may find something that would work. If not, you could get metal "L" shaped plates with a hole n both parts of them and bolt one to the joist and one to the beam such that holes in each line up and hook them together with all thread and nuts. Larry |
#7
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 8, 10:11 pm, "Ed" wrote:
What tie should I use to attach joists to a beam sitting on top of the joist. I know I could put it in flush with the joist and just use a regular joist hanger , but I would like to put the beam on top. The joists are 2x6s and the beam is a 4*12. Any local welder can fabricate brackets to your specs if you can't find something on the shelf. |
#8
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am
removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this. If I have to, I will inset it and use hangers, but that will be more work and the 2x6s are old so they are wider then 1.5 inches, so might not fit a regular hanger. As for the joist size, the joists are already there and they are just in the attic over a relitivly short span, so that shouldn't be a problem Getting a cutoms welded bracket is probably out of my price range. Thanks |
#9
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
Ed wrote:
I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this. If I have to, I will inset it and use hangers, but that will be more work and the 2x6s are old so they are wider then 1.5 inches, so might not fit a regular hanger. As for the joist size, the joists are already there and they are just in the attic over a relitivly short span, so that shouldn't be a problem Getting a cutoms welded bracket is probably out of my price range. There is pre-drilled angle iron "sticks" 4 to 6 feet long in the big box stores. Just cut to the length you need and bolt in place. Tom J |
#10
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On 2007-02-09, Ed wrote:
I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). Typically the 2x6 ceiling joists would be sitting on the wall top plates, so it should be a simple matter to sit the 4x12 beam on the wall top plates so the bottom of the beam is aligned with the bottom of the ceiling joists. If the issue is that you don't want the beam to project horizontally the additional 3.5", just cut back the ceiling joists 3.5" so the beam doesn't project. Be sure that the built-up posts in the walls supporting the beam are adequate. the 2x6s are old so they are wider then 1.5 inches, so might not fit a regular hanger. No problem, joist hangers are made in a variety of widths, including sizes for rough lumber. Cheers, Wayne |
#11
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 9, 12:53 pm, "Ed" wrote:
I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this. If I have to, I will inset it and use hangers, but that will be more work and the 2x6s are old so they are wider then 1.5 inches, so might not fit a regular hanger. As for the joist size, the joists are already there and they are just in the attic over a relitivly short span, so that shouldn't be a problem Getting a cutoms welded bracket is probably out of my price range. Thanks Now I get it. Maybe something along the lines of these things http://www.framingconnectors.com/STTW04.html They are cheap enough you could put them on either side of each joist on both sides of the beam giving you a total of four 'straps' at each beam/joist intersection. With good size nails pounded into every available hole would probably easily hold up the joists. You could probably even bolt the two straps on either side of the beam and joist. Still I would be wary of such light duty connectors. Go to a real lumber yard like 84 Lumber and ask them. There has to be some kind of ready made hanger to do what you want. |
#12
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
RayV wrote:
Maybe something along the lines of these things http://www.framingconnectors.com/STTW04.html They are cheap enough you could put them on either side of each joist on both sides of the beam giving you a total of four 'straps' at each beam/joist intersection. With good size nails pounded into every available hole would probably easily hold up the joists. You could probably even bolt the two straps on either side of the beam and joist. **** Still I would be wary of such light duty connectors*****. That's the reason I suggested the pre-drilled angle iron for this application. Tom J |
#13
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 9, 11:53 am, "Ed" wrote:
I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this. The beam will not support anything that is below it. it must be placed underneath the load for any support to occur. Is this you own personal fantasy or did you run this idea past anyone with any experience like a carpenter?? It sound like you thing these hangars are going to support the load. That is wrong headed in my opinion. If I have to, I will inset it and use hangers, but that will be more work and the 2x6s are old so they are wider then 1.5 inches, so might not fit a regular hanger. As for the joist size, the joists are already there and they are just in the attic over a relitivly short span, so that shouldn't be a problem Getting a cutoms welded bracket is probably out of my price range. You will need a damn strong bracket if you are doing what I think. You likely wont' find it on the shelf. If you design the bracket and provide drawings you can hire a welder/fabricator cheaper than you might think. Where I live metalworkers are everwhere and every farmer and mechanic does welding. Everything is negotiable with these guys and a lot are out of work. |
#14
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
I always want things like this to be many times stronger than actually
needed, but this is not going to require some 1/2" thick steel brackets. Look at the weight a joist hanger will support vs. how light and flimsy they look. Larry |
#15
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 9, 2:58 pm, "Lawrence" wrote:
On Feb 9, 11:53 am, "Ed" wrote: I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this. The beam will not support anything that is below it. it must be placed underneath the load for any support to occur. Is this you own personal fantasy or did you run this idea past anyone with any experience like a carpenter?? It sound like you thing these hangars are going to support the load. That is wrong headed in my opinion. Did you tell that to the beam? If the beam has to be below the load, how do you explain joist hangers? Ever see a suspension bridge or floating walkway? If I have to, I will inset it and use hangers, but that will be more work and the 2x6s are old so they are wider then 1.5 inches, so might not fit a regular hanger. As for the joist size, the joists are already there and they are just in the attic over a relitivly short span, so that shouldn't be a problem Getting a cutoms welded bracket is probably out of my price range. You will need a damn strong bracket if you are doing what I think. You likely wont' find it on the shelf. Like a joist hanger? If you design the bracket and provide drawings you can hire a welder/fabricator cheaper than you might think. Where I live metalworkers are everwhere and every farmer and mechanic does welding. Everything is negotiable with these guys and a lot are out of work. |
#16
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 9, 2:17 pm, (lp13-30) wrote:
I always want things like this to be many times stronger than actually needed, but this is not going to require some 1/2" thick steel brackets. Look at the weight a joist hanger will support vs. how light and flimsy they look. Larry A joist hanger works with gravity supporting the load from underneath with multiple nails. Other larger nails also hold the joist in place. If you want to support the beam it from above then it must be supported from above perhaps with steel cables and turnbuckles. It would be more than unusual. Roof joists or collar ties are not usually large boards but they are vital to the structural integrity and must be supported from underneath and they should not be attached to the beam in the way suggested. Rather, steel cable could be attached to the ridge beam which could be beefed up would be a more likeley solution in this unusual scenario. No, it is not impossible but a more conventional approach can most likely be used. If the OP insist one this wacky idea I suggest he hire an experienced carpenter or engineer to OK the framing design. From a practical standpoint I think the beam could be inside the room and made to look nice with some moulding. That is a more conventional solution and easier to design and execute. |
#17
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Feb 9, 8:58 pm, "Lawrence" wrote:
On Feb 9, 2:17 pm, (lp13-30) wrote: I always want things like this to be many times stronger than actually needed, but this is not going to require some 1/2" thick steel brackets. Look at the weight a joist hanger will support vs. how light and flimsy they look. Larry A joist hanger works with gravity supporting the load from underneath with multiple nails. Say what? Gravity is supporting the load? You claimed a beam had to be underneath a load to support it. That, obviously isn't true. The most widely used joist hangers obviously support a load that is attached to the side of the beam. Other larger nails also hold the joist in place. If you want to support the beam it from above then it must be supported from above perhaps with steel cables and turnbuckles. It would be more than unusual. Go back and read the question. He doesn't want to support the beam from above. He wants the beam to support the joists that will be below it. Unusual yes, but certainly possible with the correct metal brackets and without cables and turnbuckles. Roof joists or collar ties are not usually large boards but they are vital to the structural integrity and must be supported from underneath and they should not be attached to the beam in the way suggested. Rather, steel cable could be attached to the ridge beam which could be beefed up would be a more likeley solution in this unusual scenario. If a beam can support the weight required by the joists, and a bracket is used to connect them, then it can support the structure whether from above or below. The obvious and very std joist hangers already attach to the beam from the side, shooting your whole argument down. And if that ain;t enough, here's a link to a supplier that has something pretty close to what he's looking for: http://www.expamet.co.uk/bp/products/batspee3.html Notice the part about "underslinging joists"? No, it is not impossible but a more conventional approach can most likely be used. Like turnbuckles and cables, instead of simple metal brackets? LOL the OP insist one this wacky idea I suggest he hire an experienced carpenter or engineer to OK the framing design.From a practical standpoint I think the beam could be inside the room and made to look nice with some moulding. That is a more conventional solution and easier to design and execute. |
#18
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On 9 Feb 2007 17:58:08 -0800, "Lawrence"
wrote: On Feb 9, 2:17 pm, (lp13-30) wrote: I always want things like this to be many times stronger than actually needed, but this is not going to require some 1/2" thick steel brackets. Look at the weight a joist hanger will support vs. how light and flimsy they look. Larry A joist hanger works with gravity supporting the load from underneath with multiple nails. Other larger nails also hold the joist in place. If you want to support the beam it from above then it must be supported from above perhaps with steel cables and turnbuckles. It would be more than unusual. Roof joists or collar ties are not usually large boards but they are vital to the structural integrity and must be supported from underneath and they should not be attached to the beam in the way suggested. Rather, steel cable could be attached to the ridge beam which could be beefed up would be a more likeley solution in this unusual scenario. No, it is not impossible but a more conventional approach can most likely be used. If the OP insist one this wacky idea I suggest he hire an experienced carpenter or engineer to OK the framing design. From a practical standpoint I think the beam could be inside the room and made to look nice with some moulding. That is a more conventional solution and easier to design and execute. The beam doesn't care whether the load it's supporting is above it, below it, or tacked to the side. The only issue is making sure that the hangars are capable of supporting the load on the joists. Since these are 2x6s, one assumes that the span tributary to the beam isn't more than 10'. If the joists are 16" o.c., that's 13.33 (call it 14) square feet. Since OP is willing to have the beam above the joists, one assumes that it's not a load bearing floor, so we can call it pessimistically 30 PSF, or 420 pounds per hanger. I don't think there's any commonly available steel with a yield strength of less than about 20,000 psi, but lets use 10,000. The easiest way to support the joist is to wrap the strap around the bottom of it, run it up both side, up one face of the beam, so there's one strap up each side of the joist, and hook both ends over the top of the beam. Each half needs to support 210 pounds. On the other hand we're bending, twisting, and drilling holes in it, so we'll triple that value, and call it 630 pounds. Since our cheap-ass recycled steel bar-stock supports 10,000 psi, that means we need a strap with a cross section of .063 square inches. Half-inch strap iron 1/8th inch thick is, conveniently 0.0625 square inches in cross section. Hmm... common box nails, in sheer, 3" penetration .... call it 100 pounds per nail. which works out to 6 nails per strap.. That seems excessive to me, but hell, the point is to make stupid overbuilt... So put 3 nails slanted one way, 2 the other, up the face of the beam, and a sixth on on top. Attach the brackets to alternating side of the beam on each successive joist, so it won't be tempted to roll. Put blocking between the joists near the beam so that even if some nut-case screws a swing into one of the joists, it can't pull sideways and behead the nails one at a time. Remember: Goedjn is not an engineer. Goedjn is an anonymous voice on the internet. Do your own math. --Goedjn |
#19
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On 9 Feb 2007 09:53:36 -0800, "Ed" wrote:
I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this. If I have to, I will inset it and use hangers, but that will be more work and the 2x6s are old so they are wider then 1.5 inches, so might not fit a regular hanger. As for the joist size, the joists are already there and they are just in the attic over a relitivly short span, so that shouldn't be a problem Getting a cutoms welded bracket is probably out of my price range. I don't really understand your project, but welding is a lot cheaper than I imagine it. The guy around here is in a suburban, neighborhood welding shop. I don't know what the bulk of his work is, but the last pair of things he welded together for me cost about 10 dollars. Another guy on the opposite side of town was going to charge about the same, but I didn't have the parts with me. In my case, the two parts belonged to me. I suppose he'll charge a bit to provide the steel. It's good for you to look into this. Maybe you are like me. I always imagine that something I have never bought before, and that my parents had never bought, is very expensive. Lucite, foam rubber, welding were all much cheaper than I imagined. The 6 x 12 piece of lucite I wanted was a dollar! I thought it would be much more. Of course in this case, I don't know how complicated the bracket is, and I could be wrong. but check. Thanks |
#20
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
I'm sorry, Lawrence, you just aren't right. This has been done
for ages to remove bearing walls. It is important that the carrier beam be sized for the load and that the holding method be adequate. Why would the beam care if the joists were on top, in plane, or underneath? It is still a uniformly distributed load. It would be much lighter for the OP to make a truss. Take the precut pieces up in the attic and assemble in location. My age is showing now, but I have seen the hangers done with 2x2 lumber and nails. I would definitely go with the angle iron approach. Prepunched is fine, but expensive. A joint of 2x2x1/8 would be less expensive and you drill your own holes, though the Simpson twist straps might be adequate. Engineering input is always preferred. -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DanG A live Singing Valentine quartet, a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU! (local) http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national) "Lawrence" wrote in message oups.com... On Feb 9, 11:53 am, "Ed" wrote: I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this. The beam will not support anything that is below it. it must be placed underneath the load for any support to occur. Is this you own personal fantasy or did you run this idea past anyone with any experience like a carpenter?? It sound like you thing these hangars are going to support the load. That is wrong headed in my opinion. If I have to, I will inset it and use hangers, but that will be more work and the 2x6s are old so they are wider then 1.5 inches, so might not fit a regular hanger. As for the joist size, the joists are already there and they are just in the attic over a relitivly short span, so that shouldn't be a problem Getting a cutoms welded bracket is probably out of my price range. You will need a damn strong bracket if you are doing what I think. You likely wont' find it on the shelf. If you design the bracket and provide drawings you can hire a welder/fabricator cheaper than you might think. Where I live metalworkers are everwhere and every farmer and mechanic does welding. Everything is negotiable with these guys and a lot are out of work. |
#21
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On 2007-02-10, DanG wrote:
This has been done for ages to remove bearing walls. Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam on top of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms are lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways, but perhaps I'm missing something. Thanks, Wayne |
#22
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
One advantage is not having to build shoring walls to carry the
load while you cut the joists to be able to struggle, and I do mean struggle, to get the beam up between the cuts and then install the joist hangers. Depending on the length involved and the clearance you are willing to allow on the joist hangers, you are asking a lot to have a beam straight enough to slide right up. You need to have the new beam in location under the cut before you install the shoring walls. If it is going to be an attic space or other use where the beam on the "floor" won't create a problem, it can be an elegant solution. -- ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ DanG A live Singing Valentine quartet, a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU! (local) http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national) "Wayne Whitney" wrote in message ... On 2007-02-10, DanG wrote: This has been done for ages to remove bearing walls. Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam on top of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms are lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways, but perhaps I'm missing something. Thanks, Wayne |
#23
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
The guy I used to work for had the exact same thing done in his house.
They had part of a load bearing wall opened up and did not want the supporting beam it required to be in the room, so it was installed in the attic, just as the OP is wanting to do. However. if I ever saw how it was attatched to the joists, I do not remember. Larry |
#24
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
Wayne Whitney wrote:
On 2007-02-10, DanG wrote: This has been done for ages to remove bearing walls. Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam on top of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms are lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways, but perhaps I'm missing something. You did, see quote below my comment. He is taking out a load bearing wall below and wants a flat ceiling it seems. I have the same type thing in my home, but mine has an overhead engineered truss through the center instead of the overhead beam that uses angle iron straps like I suggested. Quote "I don't want to just hang the beam, I want it on top (because I am removing a wall below and don't want it to show). The beam will be supported with blocking at both ends, so the beam will still support the joists. I looked through the simpson site and didn't see anything that jumped out at me for this." End Quote Tom J |
#25
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
"Wayne Whitney" wrote in message ... On 2007-02-10, DanG wrote: This has been done for ages to remove bearing walls. Could you explain what the advantage is to putting the new beam on top of the joists instead of in line with the joists (so the bottoms are lined up)? The latter seems much simpler in a variety of ways, but perhaps I'm missing something. If he puts it above, I'm curious how he plans to get the beam up there. Poke a hole in the outside wall above the ceiling line? Unless the space is wider than it is long, or there is access from another floor into one end of the space, it is gonna be hard getting it up there through a joist space. aem sends... |
#26
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
This is a perfect topic. I'm in the midst of doing this right now.
Heres what Im up against http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...727/scan-1.jpg I'm removing the wall in question. The joists that span over it are 2x5's I think. They run 10 feet and sit on top of the wall in question, then continue on another foot and are face nailed to a 2X5 joist running from an inside load bearing wall to the back wall. I cut the sheetrock from under that joist and slipped in a joist hangar on each joist. Then i went up and installed two 2x12's that also sit on the middle load wall and span over to the back wall. I then nailed and screwed the original 2x5 joist to the sistered 2x12. Do you think this will be enough support? The 2x12 witht he 2x5 nailed to it span 11 feet. When I ripped the plaster off the wall to expose the studs, I noticed that all the studs were pretty loose. I figured if there was a big weight load on them, then would they not be under compression? I can see the nail shanks on some of them coming through the top plate. |
#27
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
replying to Ed, Raquesh wrote:
Hi Ad, Just wondering if you found a solution yet. I know exactly what you are talking about because I am faced with the same problem - Beam above the joists. How to hang the joists. I do know it is being done when they do not want to expose the beams, but no one will tell me how -- posted from http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...it-193179-.htm |
#28
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Mon, 13 Jun 2016 14:44:01 +0000
Raquesh wrote: replying to Ed, Raquesh wrote: Hi Ad, Just wondering if you found a solution yet. I know exactly what you are talking about because I am faced with the same problem - Beam above the joists. How to hang the joists. I do know it is being done when they do not want to expose the beams, but no one will tell me how Well after you figure it out and get it done report back here as to how you did it so all the experts will know. |
#29
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
replying to Raquesh, jasonn wrote:
couldnt you just use a 2x12 simpson joist hangar and nail only the top holes of the hanger to the beam? -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...it-193179-.htm |
#30
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
replying to RayV, Bob Mirro wrote:
I like the angle iron approach suggest above. Bolts/lag screws rather than nails -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...it-193179-.htm |
#31
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
replying to Ed, Mwarren wrote:
Ed I am curious if you completed this project and if so what you used to tie your beam to your joist. How did it turn out? I am planning on doing the exact same project you have described. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...it-193179-.htm |
#32
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
Nothing like resurrecting a 13 year old post! Happened upon this as I was looking to see if anyone did mention a prefabricated connector.
I did the exact same thing in my few hundred year old house. Ripped out a very long wall, and fashioned a 3' tall LVL perfectly against the upstairs kneewall. Bolted the remainder of the studs to the beam, and fashioned some hangars from a 50' roll of Simpson strapping allllll the way from the top of the beam, around the joist and stud, to the top of the beam on the other side. Some photos of the monster beam, as well as the custom fasteners ( you can see them wrapped around both the floor/ceiling joist as well as the stud). Custom fasteners = measuring and bending per stud. Wife and I made them ourselves. https://www.homeownershub.com/img/15om https://www.homeownershub.com/img/15oo -- For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...it-193179-.htm |
#33
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Tie to attach joist to beam above it
On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 00:01:04 +0000, flying_z
wrote: Nothing like resurrecting a 13 year old post! Happened upon this as I was looking to see if anyone did mention a prefabricated connector. I did the exact same thing in my few hundred year old house. Ripped out a very long wall, and fashioned a 3' tall LVL perfectly against the upstairs kneewall. Bolted the remainder of the studs to the beam, and fashioned some hangars from a 50' roll of Simpson strapping allllll the way from the top of the beam, around the joist and stud, to the top of the beam on the other side. Some photos of the monster beam, as well as the custom fasteners ( you can see them wrapped around both the floor/ceiling joist as well as the stud). Custom fasteners = measuring and bending per stud. Wife and I made them ourselves. https://www.homeownershub.com/img/15om https://www.homeownershub.com/img/15oo As long as it doesn't need to be an engineered connection you can do a lot with those straps but Simpson probably makes a clip for that with engineering that an inspector can verify. Usually there are several, providing different strengths in specified loadings depending on what you are protecting against. (uplift, shear etc). |
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