To try to keep with the character of our 150yr old home, I am
considering buying a real wood (pine) frame storm/screen door rather
than using the IMHO cheapie-looking aluminum or vinyl doors that just
bolt over the brick molding.

First, other than higher initial cost and the need for maintenance,
are there any other negatives to wood frame?

Second, I would like to stain the door to show off the wood and be
consistent with the stained wood main door.

Couple of questions:
- What stain should I use?
Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
such exterior use?

- What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
Would you use a spar urethane?
How many coats would you ud

Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product

"blueman" wrote in message
Couple of questions:
- What stain should I use?
Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
such exterior use?

Yes, they can work. Gel stains seem to work better on pine if you are using
a dark color.


- What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
Would you use a spar urethane?
How many coats would you ud

I've had good luck with Minwax Helmsman on some outdoor furniture. You need
at least three coats and you need a touchup every one to two years.


Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product

I used Cetol Marine on a lounge chair I made from Cypress. I'm not impressed
and won't use it again. I don't like the way it went on, the way it
covered, and the way it is holding up after only a couple of years. I"ve not
used the door finish you speak of though; it may or may not be better.

I've used Penofin Oil on some Spanish cedar and mahogany furniture I've
made and I like the way it looks, the way it is holding up, the ease of
application, and the ease of putting on a coat every couple of years. Seems
to have good UV protection also. I've never used it on pine though.

blueman wrote:
To try to keep with the character of our 150yr old home, I am
considering buying a real wood (pine) frame storm/screen door rather
than using the IMHO cheapie-looking aluminum or vinyl doors that just
bolt over the brick molding.

First, other than higher initial cost and the need for maintenance,
are there any other negatives to wood frame?

Second, I would like to stain the door to show off the wood and be
consistent with the stained wood main door.

Couple of questions:
- What stain should I use?
Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
such exterior use?

- What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
Would you use a spar urethane?
How many coats would you ...

Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product

Odds are the door maker knows more about finishing the product than
anyone in this NG. They have recommended a well-respected product, so
save yourself the hassle and just use it.
To get the color you want, experiment on the inside lower stiles.
Minwax is good stuff, but with pine, go easy on the stain, maybe even
get some similar pine boards to play with at the lumber yard. The top
finish will dictate the durability, so follow the Cetol directions to
the letter. Install with three high quality hinges, 7" from the top,
center, and 11" from the bottom. Good luck.

Joe

"Joe" wrote in message
Odds are the door maker knows more about finishing the product than
anyone in this NG. They have recommended a well-respected product, so
save yourself the hassle and just use it.


Odds are, the door maker is getting paid by Cetol to tell you that.

"blueman" wrote in message
...
To try to keep with the character of our 150yr old home, I am
considering buying a real wood (pine) frame storm/screen door rather
than using the IMHO cheapie-looking aluminum or vinyl doors that just
bolt over the brick molding.

First, other than higher initial cost and the need for maintenance,
are there any other negatives to wood frame?

Second, I would like to stain the door to show off the wood and be
consistent with the stained wood main door.

Couple of questions:
- What stain should I use?
Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
such exterior use?

- What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
Would you use a spar urethane?
How many coats would you ud

Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product


Their recommended coating is discontinued. Many of their others are marked
"restricted" on the web site. That could mean new regulations that they
haven't adapted to yet, or it could mean the products contain something
nastier than other similar products.

I've used marine polyurethane coatings for quite a few outdoor projects and
I've been pleased. In particular, I built a cold frame out of untreated pine
10 years ago. Obviously, polyurethane is not the recommended method for wood
in contact with soil, but the wood has yet to rot.

Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product


When we say that in computer helpdesk support, it means,
"We tried this, and it works, and if you screw it up we
can probably figure out how. You can use something
else if you want, but if it goes bad on you, you're
on your own."

"Joe" wrote in message
ps.com...

blueman wrote:
To try to keep with the character of our 150yr old home, I am
considering buying a real wood (pine) frame storm/screen door rather
than using the IMHO cheapie-looking aluminum or vinyl doors that just
bolt over the brick molding.

First, other than higher initial cost and the need for maintenance,
are there any other negatives to wood frame?

Second, I would like to stain the door to show off the wood and be
consistent with the stained wood main door.

Couple of questions:
- What stain should I use?
Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
such exterior use?

- What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
Would you use a spar urethane?
How many coats would you ...

Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product

Odds are the door maker knows more about finishing the product than
anyone in this NG.

Pine is pine.

"blueman" wrote in message
...
To try to keep with the character of our 150yr old home, I am
considering buying a real wood (pine) frame storm/screen door rather
than using the IMHO cheapie-looking aluminum or vinyl doors that just
bolt over the brick molding.

First, other than higher initial cost and the need for maintenance,
are there any other negatives to wood frame?

Second, I would like to stain the door to show off the wood and be
consistent with the stained wood main door.

Couple of questions:
- What stain should I use?
Is a regular Minwax stain (and sealer since pine) good enough for
such exterior use?

- What (clear) finish is most appropriate for protecting the door from
UV and other weather damage? (we live in the Northeast)
Would you use a spar urethane?
How many coats would you ud

Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product


Sikkens products are very expensive and most must be reapplied every year or
two without fail to keep up the appearance. Run with Minwax or Old Masters
stain. If you're using pine, you'll want to either use a wood conditioner
(Minwax makes one) prior to staining with a wiping or penetrating stain, or,
as someone else suggested, use a gel stain. Take in a board from your house
that's the color you want the screen door to be, along with a sample of the
same wood as the new door to a paint store for color matching. Make sure
they wipe the stain when checking the color. Any urethane or varnish rated
for exterior finish should work fine. They'll have some at the paint store.

"Joe" writes:
blueman wrote:
Note the door manufacturer (The Combination Door Company) "recommends
the use of Sikkens Cetol Door and Window finish." Are such finishes
anything special or are they just pitching somebody elses product

Odds are the door maker knows more about finishing the product than
anyone in this NG. They have recommended a well-respected product, so
save yourself the hassle and just use it.

Interesting... I would have thought so too. However, the "technician"
I spoke to several times said that they (the manufacturer) don't know
a lot about finishing the doors and that I would do better to ask the
distributor. He really couldn't answer any questions about staining in
general or about the Sikkens finish in particular that they recommend
on their web site. This makes me wonder though whether they are simply
getting paid to promote the Sikkens product and plaster the promotion
on their web site. (I believe Edwin Pawloski had a similar hunch).


To get the color you want, experiment on the inside lower stiles.
Minwax is good stuff, but with pine, go easy on the stain, maybe even
get some similar pine boards to play with at the lumber yard. The top
finish will dictate the durability, so follow the Cetol directions to
the letter. Install with three high quality hinges, 7" from the top,
center, and 11" from the bottom. Good luck.


Thanks good suggestions!