Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for you?
Any tips if you recommend it?

http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...ontentId=19573

"Mike Dobony" wrote in message
...
Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for you?
Any tips if you recommend it?

http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...ontentId=19573

I used it for two joints a couple years ago. It was easy to use and has
held up fine.
But when I went to use it a year later it had gone bad. So, it was darn
expensive for two joints.
Solder doesn't have this problem, but I was right up against a stud.

Next time I am going to try some CA I bought at a going out of business
sale.

On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 00:41:59 -0600, "Mike Dobony"
wrote:

Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for you?
Any tips if you recommend it?


If you are too stupid to use solder, you need to hire a plumber. Use
your yellow pages and look up plumbers.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 00:41:59 -0600, "Mike Dobony"
wrote:

Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for you?
Any tips if you recommend it?


If you are too stupid to use solder, you need to hire a plumber. Use
your yellow pages and look up plumbers.

Looks like you hate most everything!
Probably best if you kept your thoughts to yourself.

Mike Dobony wrote:
Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for you?
Any tips if you recommend it?

http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...ontentId=19573

I'd be leery of using it until it has passed the test of time.
Accelerated ageing tests often do not predict lifetime of a product.
Plastics usually fail catastrophically due to oxidation and I believe
copper pipes have a 60 year lifetime. Also, the 20 minute set-up time
is probably a gel time and full strength may take 24 hours to develop.
You certainly would not want to use for all your joints and if there is
a problem using a torch, use compression fittings as others suggested.
Frank

"Frank" wrote in message
ups.com...

Mike Dobony wrote:
Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for
you?
Any tips if you recommend it?

http://www.rd.com/content/openConten...ontentId=19573

I'd be leery of using it until it has passed the test of time.
Accelerated ageing tests often do not predict lifetime of a product.
Plastics usually fail catastrophically due to oxidation and I believe
copper pipes have a 60 year lifetime. Also, the 20 minute set-up time
is probably a gel time and full strength may take 24 hours to develop.
You certainly would not want to use for all your joints and if there is
a problem using a torch, use compression fittings as others suggested.
Frank


I am building a manifold and am using Qest plastic valves. They are combo
compression/NPT fittings and I want to attach the valves to the threaded
stubs first and then have all the valves facing down. I do not want to
torch after attaching the valves to the stubs, nor do I want to use long
stubs to keep the heat away from the valves. I want only 1-2" stubs, hence
the appeal of the epoxy. I do not need to use the joints immediatly after
assembly and can wait several days if necessary. The other alternative is
to go with 3-4" stubs and use a wet rag at the valve to keep the heat from
reaching the valve.

Mike Dobony wrote:
Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for you?
Any tips if you recommend it?


HD has presoldered fittings. (An extruded ring filled with solder at
each end of the fitting) Anyone have any experience with these? Since
the solder is center of the joint, I don't see how you would know when
it flowed.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 2 Jan 2007 00:41:59 -0600, "Mike Dobony"
wrote:

Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for
you?
Any tips if you recommend it?

I like Elmer's Glu all myself. Work's like a charm!

Mike Dobony wrote:



I am building a manifold and am using Qest plastic valves. They are combo
compression/NPT fittings and I want to attach the valves to the threaded
stubs first and then have all the valves facing down. I do not want to
torch after attaching the valves to the stubs, nor do I want to use long
stubs to keep the heat away from the valves. I want only 1-2" stubs, hence
the appeal of the epoxy. I do not need to use the joints immediatly after
assembly and can wait several days if necessary. The other alternative is
to go with 3-4" stubs and use a wet rag at the valve to keep the heat from
reaching the valve.



Solder is a proven method with demonstrated endurance. Gluing fittings
together is a DIY concept that may or may not stand the test of time.

What you are describing may look neat but it is a good idea to install
stuff so it is serviceable. How will you replace a valve if there is
interference with the other valves?

"Bob" wrote in message
ups.com...

Mike Dobony wrote:
Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for
you?
Any tips if you recommend it?


HD has presoldered fittings. (An extruded ring filled with solder at
each end of the fitting) Anyone have any experience with these? Since
the solder is center of the joint, I don't see how you would know when
it flowed.

Buy a few pieces and practice soldering. Once done properly, you know it is
good for 100 years.

"George" wrote in message
...
Mike Dobony wrote:



I am building a manifold and am using Qest plastic valves. They are
combo compression/NPT fittings and I want to attach the valves to the
threaded stubs first and then have all the valves facing down. I do not
want to torch after attaching the valves to the stubs, nor do I want to
use long stubs to keep the heat away from the valves. I want only 1-2"
stubs, hence the appeal of the epoxy. I do not need to use the joints
immediatly after assembly and can wait several days if necessary. The
other alternative is to go with 3-4" stubs and use a wet rag at the valve
to keep the heat from reaching the valve.

Solder is a proven method with demonstrated endurance. Gluing fittings
together is a DIY concept that may or may not stand the test of time.

What you are describing may look neat but it is a good idea to install
stuff so it is serviceable. How will you replace a valve if there is
interference with the other valves?

They will be stagered with plenty of room to replace them. However, the
position of the valve handle might not end up in a good position.

"Bob" wrote in message
ups.com...

Mike Dobony wrote:
Anybody have any experience with the epoxy replacement for traditional
soldering of copper plumbing joints? If si, how well did it work for
you?
Any tips if you recommend it?


HD has presoldered fittings. (An extruded ring filled with solder at
each end of the fitting) Anyone have any experience with these? Since
the solder is center of the joint, I don't see how you would know when
it flowed.


You will see it just edge out of the joint. These should be easy to use,
but with a little practice it is MUCH cheaper and just as good to do it the
old fashioned way, with flux and solder.