Problem with 2003 Rheem Natural Gas Water Heater 40-gallon

Symptoms:
1. Dripping water from t&p valve
2. Hear air hissing from t&p valve,
3. Low water pressure from hot water heater (cold water pressure is fine
into the water heater - has been checked)
4. Tonight air was causing the hot water to sputter through the pipes/faucet
5. Hear gurgling and popping noises from water heater when it is heating
water

I am going to flush the water heater later today, but I don't know if that
is going to increase the hot water pressure. I finally got the t&p valve to
quit leaking and I don't hear air hissing from it anymore. I also turned the
water heater temperature down to 120 - it was set at 140.

What else should I do or look for? With the move, I don't really want to
have to call a plumber if it is possible for me to do the work myself.

i usually turn the hot watr faucets on til the air is all out

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

sometimes with water heaters it just easier faster and better to
replace. did you get a home warranty?

if a tank flood can do damage i would opt for replacement

wrote:
sometimes with water heaters it just easier faster and better to
replace. did you get a home warranty?

if a tank flood can do damage i would opt for replacement


First thing I'd check is if it's installed correctly. The only way I
can think of for air to remain trapped for long in a water heater would
be if the cold and hot lines going into it were reversed. Otherwise,
air goes to the top and should exit the system quickly when you draw
water.

And even if he didn't get a warranty on the home, there surely still a
warranty on a 2003 WH.

CJ wrote:
Problem with 2003 Rheem Natural Gas Water Heater 40-gallon

Symptoms:
1. Dripping water from t&p valve
2. Hear air hissing from t&p valve,
3. Low water pressure from hot water heater (cold water pressure is
fine into the water heater - has been checked)
4. Tonight air was causing the hot water to sputter through the
pipes/faucet 5. Hear gurgling and popping noises from water heater when it
is
heating water

I am going to flush the water heater later today, but I don't know if
that is going to increase the hot water pressure. I finally got the
t&p valve to quit leaking and I don't hear air hissing from it
anymore. I also turned the water heater temperature down to 120 - it
was set at 140.
What else should I do or look for? With the move, I don't really want
to have to call a plumber if it is possible for me to do the work
myself.

All those things taken into consideration together would lead me to
believe the heater is close to the end if its life. It may be set too hot
the water pressure may be too high (well or city water?) it likely has a lot
of scale inside the TP valve may be weak (if it stays good, that is not
likely). Flushing may help, but somehow I have my doubts. It is likely a
little late for that.

It sounds like you live in an area where the water is hard on heaters.
Check with neighbors and see what kind of life they are getting on their
water heaters.

The low pressure on hot water is likely due to the scale. Washers and
some other appliances often have their own filter or screen that may be
cleaned to restore flow. It is also possible the there is a serious build
up in the pipes. If that happened since 2003 you are in serious need of
water conditioning equipment. A local plumber should be able to make some
suggestions. He may even be able to clean out the pipes.

BTW again check with your neighbors as they are likely to have many of
the same problems if it is water related. It is especially useful if you are
in a recent development as everyone will be having the same problems at the
same time so checking with them can be very useful and can help you find a
good honest inexpensive plumber.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

5. Hear gurgling and popping noises from water heater when it is
heating water

Ths scale build up on the bottom of the tank, call the tank
manufacturer with the model and serial number, they can probablt give
you a idea of the tanks age.

But at this point your better off replacing it.

Owning a home means stuff breaks constantly

Did you have a home inspection before purchase?

5. Hear gurgling and popping noises from water heater when it is
heating water

Ths scale build up on the bottom of the tank, call the tank
manufacturer with the model and serial number, they can probablt give
you a idea of the tanks age.

But at this point your better off replacing it.

Owning a home means stuff breaks constantly

Did you have a home inspection before purchase?

wrote:
5. Hear gurgling and popping noises from water heater when it is
heating water

Ths scale build up on the bottom of the tank, call the tank
manufacturer with the model and serial number, they can probablt give
you a idea of the tanks age.

OP: Problem with 2003 Rheem Natural Gas Water Heater 40-gallon

Likely it is about 3 - 4 years old. :-)


But at this point your better off replacing it.

Owning a home means stuff breaks constantly

Did you have a home inspection before purchase?

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

Any chance the supply lines are reversed? The fittings are marked H and C.
Sometimes the markings aren't all that visible.

Is the hot water line 3/4" (measures about 7/8" diameter)?

There is probably a valve on the cold water supply, near the WH.
Do you know that it is opening properly and has full flow.? One way to test
is put a garden hose on the drain fitting. Flow in the garden hose should
be about the same as if it was connected elsewhere.
Good flow would eliminate supply issues. You don't need the garden hose if
the heater is somewhere that doesn't mind getting wet.

With the water supply turned off, and the emergency valve open, see if
there is decent gravity flow out of the drain valve.
If not, there is likely a lot of sediment in the bottom, which would account
for the hissing noises.

The WH is not old enough to have normal sediment issues, but large amounts
of sediment could have occurred with unusual rust problems in the water
system or even within the property.

Bill

"CJ" wrote in message
. ..
Problem with 2003 Rheem Natural Gas Water Heater 40-gallon

Symptoms:
1. Dripping water from t&p valve
2. Hear air hissing from t&p valve,
3. Low water pressure from hot water heater (cold water pressure is fine
into the water heater - has been checked)
4. Tonight air was causing the hot water to sputter through the
pipes/faucet
5. Hear gurgling and popping noises from water heater when it is heating
water

I am going to flush the water heater later today, but I don't know if that
is going to increase the hot water pressure. I finally got the t&p valve
to quit leaking and I don't hear air hissing from it anymore. I also
turned the water heater temperature down to 120 - it was set at 140.

What else should I do or look for? With the move, I don't really want to
have to call a plumber if it is possible for me to do the work myself.

yeah what kind of water lines? galvanized would explain this pretty
simply. the tank sediment and the lines clogged.

if you have galvanized its past time to replace it.

also check faucet aerators, they can and do clog.

Just discovered that I have that "wonderful" grey pipe everyone is talking
about. The problem is thermal expansion. I talked to a neighbor this
morning and she said that the average life of a water heater in the
mountains is 6 years due to the hard water and how cold the water gets in
the winter.

I turned the temperature down and the sputtering has stopped, the t&p valve
is not leaking or hissing anymore.

There is a lot of sediment built up in this water heater. There is no water
softener.

So if I can limp along until January when I get my income tax refund, I will
be getting a new water heater, thermal expansion tank, and water softening
system.

CJ wrote:
Just discovered that I have that "wonderful" grey pipe everyone is talking
about. The problem is thermal expansion. I talked to a neighbor this
morning and she said that the average life of a water heater in the
mountains is 6 years due to the hard water and how cold the water gets in
the winter.

I turned the temperature down and the sputtering has stopped, the t&p valve
is not leaking or hissing anymore.

There is a lot of sediment built up in this water heater. There is no water
softener.

So if I can limp along until January when I get my income tax refund, I will
be getting a new water heater, thermal expansion tank, and water softening
system.

you WILL be needing to replace the galvanined pipe, all of it
eventually.

the steel pipe rusts INSIDE and eventually clogs, it happens a little
faster in hot water lines but eventually cold will clog too. trouble is
it will also LEAK, here a leak there a leak pretty soon you will tire
of this and ruined stuff from leaks and break down and get it all
replaced.

no doubt the former owner knew about this was it disclosed at the time
of purchase?

I would get some estimates NOW for replumbing probably with PEX its
cheap and effective, can be DIY if you have a knowledgable friend.

I assume you didnt have a home inspector?

sorry for the bad news

how many stories is your home? one story makes water line replacement
much easier.

some people replace all the basement lines first then move upstairs as
money permits.
but PEX is easy tpo run and really cheap.

wrote in message
ups.com...

CJ wrote:
Just discovered that I have that "wonderful" grey pipe everyone is
talking
about. The problem is thermal expansion. I talked to a neighbor this
morning and she said that the average life of a water heater in the
mountains is 6 years due to the hard water and how cold the water gets in
the winter.

I turned the temperature down and the sputtering has stopped, the t&p
valve
is not leaking or hissing anymore.

There is a lot of sediment built up in this water heater. There is no
water
softener.

So if I can limp along until January when I get my income tax refund, I
will
be getting a new water heater, thermal expansion tank, and water
softening
system.

you WILL be needing to replace the galvanined pipe, all of it
eventually.

the steel pipe rusts INSIDE and eventually clogs, it happens a little
faster in hot water lines but eventually cold will clog too. trouble is
it will also LEAK, here a leak there a leak pretty soon you will tire
of this and ruined stuff from leaks and break down and get it all
replaced.

no doubt the former owner knew about this was it disclosed at the time
of purchase?

I would get some estimates NOW for replumbing probably with PEX its
cheap and effective, can be DIY if you have a knowledgable friend.

I assume you didnt have a home inspector?

sorry for the bad news

how many stories is your home? one story makes water line replacement
much easier.

some people replace all the basement lines first then move upstairs as
money permits.
but PEX is easy tpo run and really cheap.


I called the inspector this a.m. and he said that there was no way to
determine if the water heater had any issues since we bought it in the
summer and if it had thermal expansion problems, they wouldn't turn up until
it gets cold.

I intended to replumb the whole house next summer, I guess it will be moved
up to a spring project.

CJ wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

CJ wrote:
Just discovered that I have that "wonderful" grey pipe everyone is
talking
about. The problem is thermal expansion. I talked to a neighbor this
morning and she said that the average life of a water heater in the
mountains is 6 years due to the hard water and how cold the water gets in
the winter.

I turned the temperature down and the sputtering has stopped, the t&p
valve
is not leaking or hissing anymore.

There is a lot of sediment built up in this water heater. There is no
water
softener.

So if I can limp along until January when I get my income tax refund, I
will
be getting a new water heater, thermal expansion tank, and water
softening
system.

you WILL be needing to replace the galvanined pipe, all of it
eventually.

the steel pipe rusts INSIDE and eventually clogs, it happens a little
faster in hot water lines but eventually cold will clog too. trouble is
it will also LEAK, here a leak there a leak pretty soon you will tire
of this and ruined stuff from leaks and break down and get it all
replaced.

no doubt the former owner knew about this was it disclosed at the time
of purchase?

I would get some estimates NOW for replumbing probably with PEX its
cheap and effective, can be DIY if you have a knowledgable friend.

I assume you didnt have a home inspector?

sorry for the bad news

how many stories is your home? one story makes water line replacement
much easier.

some people replace all the basement lines first then move upstairs as
money permits.
but PEX is easy tpo run and really cheap.


I called the inspector this a.m. and he said that there was no way to
determine if the water heater had any issues since we bought it in the
summer and if it had thermal expansion problems, they wouldn't turn up until
it gets cold.

I intended to replumb the whole house next summer, I guess it will be moved
up to a spring project.

had he informed you of the galvanized pipes?

CJ wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

CJ wrote:
Just discovered that I have that "wonderful" grey pipe everyone is
talking
about. The problem is thermal expansion. I talked to a neighbor this
morning and she said that the average life of a water heater in the
mountains is 6 years due to the hard water and how cold the water gets in
the winter.

I turned the temperature down and the sputtering has stopped, the t&p
valve
is not leaking or hissing anymore.

There is a lot of sediment built up in this water heater. There is no
water
softener.

So if I can limp along until January when I get my income tax refund, I
will
be getting a new water heater, thermal expansion tank, and water
softening
system.

you WILL be needing to replace the galvanined pipe, all of it
eventually.

the steel pipe rusts INSIDE and eventually clogs, it happens a little
faster in hot water lines but eventually cold will clog too. trouble is
it will also LEAK, here a leak there a leak pretty soon you will tire
of this and ruined stuff from leaks and break down and get it all
replaced.

no doubt the former owner knew about this was it disclosed at the time
of purchase?

I would get some estimates NOW for replumbing probably with PEX its
cheap and effective, can be DIY if you have a knowledgable friend.

I assume you didnt have a home inspector?

sorry for the bad news

how many stories is your home? one story makes water line replacement
much easier.

some people replace all the basement lines first then move upstairs as
money permits.
but PEX is easy tpo run and really cheap.


I called the inspector this a.m. and he said that there was no way to
determine if the water heater had any issues since we bought it in the
summer and if it had thermal expansion problems, they wouldn't turn up until
it gets cold.

I intended to replumb the whole house next summer, I guess it will be moved
up to a spring project.

had he informed you of the galvanized pipes?

I intended to replumb the whole house next summer, I guess it will be moved
up to a spring project.

If I were you I wouldnt disturb ANYTHING till the complete replumbing.

Messing with stuff like a softener may cause a cascade failure of
leaks.

Think of your water system like a badly cracked dish. even touching it
may make it fall apart

wrote in message
ups.com...
I intended to replumb the whole house next summer, I guess it will be
moved
up to a spring project.

If I were you I wouldnt disturb ANYTHING till the complete replumbing.

Messing with stuff like a softener may cause a cascade failure of
leaks.

Think of your water system like a badly cracked dish. even touching it
may make it fall apart

I will wait then. I don't want to crack it even further. Thanks for the
help.

CJ wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...
I intended to replumb the whole house next summer, I guess it will be
moved
up to a spring project.

If I were you I wouldnt disturb ANYTHING till the complete replumbing.

Messing with stuff like a softener may cause a cascade failure of
leaks.

Think of your water system like a badly cracked dish. even touching it
may make it fall apart

I will wait then. I don't want to crack it even further. Thanks for the
help.

glad to be of help, if your going to be away awhile like on vacation
turn the main valve off so you dont returen home to a flood. although
most galavanized leaks are small the rust tends to clog themselves.