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#41
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
CJT wrote:
... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. It doesn't need to work if nothing is drawing current from the hot lead. |
#42
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
CJT wrote:
Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. Nope, there's a 120 volt "primary" on that "current transformer" which is connected across the incoming line. The incoming hot and neutral leads to the GFCI are "secondaries" on that transformer, and a small amount of in phase voltage gets "added" in series to both of them. Then, those leads continue through the normal differential current sensing transformer and on to the "load" side of the GFCI. My calling it a "current transformer" may not be exactly correct, but they are transformers having one winding with lots of turns of fine wire and two winding of wire heavy enough to carry the rated current of the GFCI. I believe both the "transformers" in a GFCI are wound on toroidal cores, and that the "heavy" leads may wind around the cores only one turn or so. With enough Googling you can probably find a simplified schematic of what's inside a GFCI, and a picture is worth a thousand words when it comes to understanding the current flows involved. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. That voltage on the neutral lead will cause a small current flow if the neutral gets connected to ground. The normal differential current sensing portion of the GFCI responds to the current flowing in the neutral which has not come from the hot output and "pops" the GFCI. Trust me it works... Or test it yourself with a neutral to ground short. Jeff |
#43
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
Goedjn wrote:
On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 00:14:03 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. That voltage on the neutral lead will cause a small current flow if the neutral gets connected to ground. The normal differential current sensing portion of the GFCI responds to the current flowing in the neutral which has not come from the hot output and "pops" the GFCI. Trust me it works... Or test it yourself with a neutral to ground short. Jeff What was confusing me was the implication that there's an older type of GFCI that will trip on a hot/ground short, but not on a nuetral/ground short. Was I inferring more from "more recent GFCIs" than was intended? That's what I've been led to believe, but I can't swear to it. GFCIs have been around for well over twenty years. Our home is 21 years old and came from the builder with one GFCI breaker in the panel and a couple of GFCI outlets too. Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#44
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
Terry wrote:
CJT wrote: ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. It doesn't need to work if nothing is drawing current from the hot lead. BUT IT DOES! I finally found Sam Goldwasser's page which is pretty much the bible about GFCI's. It has the diagrams I'd been trying to find again. http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm I found the last paragraph explaining why kitchen toasters don't have grounded cords on them pretty logical. Read it and learn... Happy Holidays, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#45
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Terry wrote: CJT wrote: ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. It doesn't need to work if nothing is drawing current from the hot lead. BUT IT DOES! I finally found Sam Goldwasser's page which is pretty much the bible about GFCI's. It has the diagrams I'd been trying to find again. http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm I found the last paragraph explaining why kitchen toasters don't have grounded cords on them pretty logical. Read it and learn... Useful information. I got a chuckle from the diagram that says fault current (bad) It made me think of........Fire bad. You would have to be a Saturday Night Live fan to get it. |
#46
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
Jeff Wisnia wrote:
CJT wrote: Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. Nope, there's a 120 volt "primary" on that "current transformer" which is connected across the incoming line. The incoming hot and neutral leads to the GFCI are "secondaries" on that transformer, and a small amount of in phase voltage gets "added" in series to both of them. Then, those leads continue through the normal differential current sensing transformer and on to the "load" side of the GFCI. My calling it a "current transformer" may not be exactly correct, but they are transformers having one winding with lots of turns of fine wire and two winding of wire heavy enough to carry the rated current of the GFCI. Now I understand. It was the terminology that threw me off. "Current transformer" means something a bit different to me. Regardless, that seems like an awful lot of technology to throw at a problem that doesn't seem (to me) like much of a problem. Since the ground and neutral are tied together upstream, why is it a problem if they're also tied together downstream? I.e., what am I missing in this picture? Won't normal GFCI functionality catch any such case that's a significant hazard? I believe both the "transformers" in a GFCI are wound on toroidal cores, and that the "heavy" leads may wind around the cores only one turn or so. With enough Googling you can probably find a simplified schematic of what's inside a GFCI, and a picture is worth a thousand words when it comes to understanding the current flows involved. Jeff -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#47
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Goedjn wrote: On Thu, 30 Nov 2006 00:14:03 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. That voltage on the neutral lead will cause a small current flow if the neutral gets connected to ground. The normal differential current sensing portion of the GFCI responds to the current flowing in the neutral which has not come from the hot output and "pops" the GFCI. Trust me it works... Or test it yourself with a neutral to ground short. Jeff What was confusing me was the implication that there's an older type of GFCI that will trip on a hot/ground short, but not on a nuetral/ground short. Was I inferring more from "more recent GFCIs" than was intended? That's what I've been led to believe, but I can't swear to it. GFCIs have been around for well over twenty years. Our home is 21 years old and came from the builder with one GFCI breaker in the panel and a couple of GFCI outlets too. Jeff Ours was built in 1980 and contained a GFCI outlet when it was new. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#48
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
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#50
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article , CJT wrote:
I fail to see how a fault between ground and neutral (of the sort we were discussing) downstream of a GFCI, without some additional fault, will get you electrocuted. Because: a) the ground conductor is attached to the metal frame of any equipment that has one; b) the neutral conductor carries current; c) tying the ground and neutral together, downstream of the main panel, causes the metal frame of any equipment having one to be electrically continuous with the neutral; and therefore d) a parallel path to ground exists, for the current flowing in the neutral, through the body of any person who happens to be touching said metal frame. Fair enough (reserve the ground to its safety role). But you don't, e.g., protect against faults that circumvent the GFCI. At some point the addition of safety devices becomes overdone. How will a ground-neutral fault downstream of a GFCI, without some other additional fault, get you electrocuted? Explained above. BTW, if a ground is incapable of carrying current (as you seem to imply), it's not much use as protection. Of course it's capable of it. The point is that in normal operation, it's not supposed to. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#51
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , CJT wrote: I fail to see how a fault between ground and neutral (of the sort we were discussing) downstream of a GFCI, without some additional fault, will get you electrocuted. Because: a) the ground conductor is attached to the metal frame of any equipment that has one; b) the neutral conductor carries current; c) tying the ground and neutral together, downstream of the main panel, causes the metal frame of any equipment having one to be electrically continuous with the neutral; and therefore d) a parallel path to ground exists, for the current flowing in the neutral, through the body of any person who happens to be touching said metal frame. But neither neutral nor ground should be more than a couple of volts above zero potential, barring an additional fault. I can see getting a tingle, but electrocuted? Fair enough (reserve the ground to its safety role). But you don't, e.g., protect against faults that circumvent the GFCI. At some point the addition of safety devices becomes overdone. How will a ground-neutral fault downstream of a GFCI, without some other additional fault, get you electrocuted? Explained above. BTW, if a ground is incapable of carrying current (as you seem to imply), it's not much use as protection. Of course it's capable of it. The point is that in normal operation, it's not supposed to. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#52
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article , CJT wrote:
But neither neutral nor ground should be more than a couple of volts above zero potential, barring an additional fault. I can see getting a tingle, but electrocuted? If the current passes across the heart (e.g. hand to hand, or hand to opposite foot), as little as twenty milliamperes can be fatal. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#53
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , CJT wrote: But neither neutral nor ground should be more than a couple of volts above zero potential, barring an additional fault. I can see getting a tingle, but electrocuted? If the current passes across the heart (e.g. hand to hand, or hand to opposite foot), as little as twenty milliamperes can be fatal. better be careful with those AAA batteries -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#54
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
CJT wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , CJT wrote: But neither neutral nor ground should be more than a couple of volts above zero potential, barring an additional fault. I can see getting a tingle, but electrocuted? If the current passes across the heart (e.g. hand to hand, or hand to opposite foot), as little as twenty milliamperes can be fatal. better be careful with those AAA batteries You know, I have long pondered the same question, since "circuit wise" it's hard to see why the neutral wire wouldn't serve as a reasonable "ground" IF you neglect wiring resistance and assume that all wire terminations, once made, will remain perfect and continuous forever. But, we know that's not always the case, and while I agree that a few volts created by an IR drop in the return lead won't hurt you unless it somehow "gets under your skin", if you've never stuck your tongue across the terminals of a 9 volt "transistor radio battery", you'd be shocked, (Even more than Captain Renault was.) to "see how that tastes." But, consider what maybe 3 to 5 volts of neutral voltage drop with several amps of current source driving it might do in terms of heating up some thin strip of metal, like say a piece of Xmas tree tinsel. (Izzat stuff still metal? It was when I was a kid.) That could raise its temperature enough to start a fire. So, all things considered, especially IPIO*, I think I must agree that the addition of safety grounding to building wiring, which occurred sometime during my life so far, was probably a pretty good idea, as are GFCIs. Jeff * IPIO: the innate perversity of inanimate objects -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#55
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message et... Terry wrote: CJT wrote: ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. It doesn't need to work if nothing is drawing current from the hot lead. BUT IT DOES! I finally found Sam Goldwasser's page which is pretty much the bible about GFCI's. It has the diagrams I'd been trying to find again. http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm I found the last paragraph explaining why kitchen toasters don't have grounded cords on them pretty logical. Read it and learn... Happy Holidays, Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM1851.pdf (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#56
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article ,
says... krw wrote: In article , says... Jeff Wisnia wrote: CJT wrote: Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. Nope, there's a 120 volt "primary" on that "current transformer" which is connected across the incoming line. The incoming hot and neutral leads to the GFCI are "secondaries" on that transformer, and a small amount of in phase voltage gets "added" in series to both of them. Then, those leads continue through the normal differential current sensing transformer and on to the "load" side of the GFCI. My calling it a "current transformer" may not be exactly correct, but they are transformers having one winding with lots of turns of fine wire and two winding of wire heavy enough to carry the rated current of the GFCI. Now I understand. It was the terminology that threw me off. "Current transformer" means something a bit different to me. Ok, what does it mean to you? GFCI indeed do use current transformers to detect the imbalance in current between the hot an neutral. But that's not the section of the GFCI we were discussing. In what sense is it a "current transformer" if it has a primary connected between hot and neutral? Primary connected between hot and neutral? What _are_ you talking about? The hot and neutral have separate "windings". The current imbalance is sensed with a third "winding". WHen the current in each of the hot and neutral is the same the magnetic fields cancel, thus nothing on the sense winding. If there is a current imbalance there is a net magnetic field and is sensed. It is the difference in current that's sensed, thus a current transformer. Regardless, that seems like an awful lot of technology to throw at a problem that doesn't seem (to me) like much of a problem. A fault to ground isn't a big deal to you? boggle I fail to see how a fault between ground and neutral (of the sort we were discussing) downstream of a GFCI, without some additional fault, will get you electrocuted. If there is a neutral fault you're now in the circuit. This isn't a healthy idea. Since the ground and neutral are tied together upstream, why is it a problem if they're also tied together downstream? Wow! Perhaps because a neutral is designed to carry CURRENT, and a ground is *NOT*. THink about faults! The ground is there for safety! Fair enough (reserve the ground to its safety role). But you don't, e.g., protect against faults that circumvent the GFCI. What faults would those be? At some point the addition of safety devices becomes overdone. How will a ground-neutral fault downstream of a GFCI, without some other additional fault, get you electrocuted? Likely not. Do you want to take that chance though? Please leave my wiring alone. BTW, if a ground is incapable of carrying current (as you seem to imply), it's not much use as protection. I didn't say "incapable", I said *DOESN'T*, there is a difference. I.e., what am I missing in this picture? Faults. No, I'm well aware of the possibility of faults. Apparently not. Won't normal GFCI functionality catch any such case that's a significant hazard? A parachute might catch you too, but it's a good idea to never have rely on one. There are already multiple levels of protection. The question is when one stops adding more. When one is happy with the level of protection, after all applicable safety codes have been met. -- Keith |
#57
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
krw wrote:
In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... Jeff Wisnia wrote: CJT wrote: Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. Nope, there's a 120 volt "primary" on that "current transformer" which is connected across the incoming line. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HERE! The incoming hot and neutral leads to the GFCI are "secondaries" on that transformer, and a small amount of in phase voltage gets "added" in series to both of them. Then, those leads continue through the normal differential current sensing transformer and on to the "load" side of the GFCI. My calling it a "current transformer" may not be exactly correct, but they are transformers having one winding with lots of turns of fine wire and two winding of wire heavy enough to carry the rated current of the GFCI. Now I understand. It was the terminology that threw me off. "Current transformer" means something a bit different to me. Ok, what does it mean to you? GFCI indeed do use current transformers to detect the imbalance in current between the hot an neutral. But that's not the section of the GFCI we were discussing. In what sense is it a "current transformer" if it has a primary connected between hot and neutral? Primary connected between hot and neutral? What _are_ you talking about? The portion of the thread identified above. The hot and neutral have separate "windings". The current imbalance is sensed with a third "winding". WHen the current in each of the hot and neutral is the same the magnetic fields cancel, thus nothing on the sense winding. If there is a current imbalance there is a net magnetic field and is sensed. It is the difference in current that's sensed, thus a current transformer. That's a different part of the device, like I said. Regardless, that seems like an awful lot of technology to throw at a problem that doesn't seem (to me) like much of a problem. A fault to ground isn't a big deal to you? boggle I fail to see how a fault between ground and neutral (of the sort we were discussing) downstream of a GFCI, without some additional fault, will get you electrocuted. If there is a neutral fault you're now in the circuit. This isn't a healthy idea. But is it life threatening? Unlikely. Since the ground and neutral are tied together upstream, why is it a problem if they're also tied together downstream? Wow! Perhaps because a neutral is designed to carry CURRENT, and a ground is *NOT*. THink about faults! The ground is there for safety! Fair enough (reserve the ground to its safety role). But you don't, e.g., protect against faults that circumvent the GFCI. What faults would those be? For instance, a short across the GFCI that effectively takes it out of the circuit. At some point the addition of safety devices becomes overdone. How will a ground-neutral fault downstream of a GFCI, without some other additional fault, get you electrocuted? Likely not. Do you want to take that chance though? Please leave my wiring alone. I don't like people taking chances with my life by talking on their cellphones while driving, either, but that doesn't necessarily mean there should be interlocks on their car to prevent it. BTW, if a ground is incapable of carrying current (as you seem to imply), it's not much use as protection. I didn't say "incapable", I said *DOESN'T*, there is a difference. You said the ground was not "designed to carry current." Perhaps I read that too literally. I.e., what am I missing in this picture? Faults. No, I'm well aware of the possibility of faults. Apparently not. Pfft. Won't normal GFCI functionality catch any such case that's a significant hazard? A parachute might catch you too, but it's a good idea to never have rely on one. There are already multiple levels of protection. The question is when one stops adding more. When one is happy with the level of protection, after all applicable safety codes have been met. Whatever. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#58
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article ,
says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... Jeff Wisnia wrote: CJT wrote: Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. Nope, there's a 120 volt "primary" on that "current transformer" which is connected across the incoming line. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HERE! The incoming hot and neutral leads to the GFCI are "secondaries" on that transformer, and a small amount of in phase voltage gets "added" in series to both of them. Then, those leads continue through the normal differential current sensing transformer and on to the "load" side of the GFCI. My calling it a "current transformer" may not be exactly correct, but they are transformers having one winding with lots of turns of fine wire and two winding of wire heavy enough to carry the rated current of the GFCI. Now I understand. It was the terminology that threw me off. "Current transformer" means something a bit different to me. Ok, what does it mean to you? GFCI indeed do use current transformers to detect the imbalance in current between the hot an neutral. But that's not the section of the GFCI we were discussing. In what sense is it a "current transformer" if it has a primary connected between hot and neutral? Primary connected between hot and neutral? What _are_ you talking about? The portion of the thread identified above. Your writing isn't clear. The current transformer is a current transformer, no more, no less. "Primary" of what? The hot and neutral have separate "windings". The current imbalance is sensed with a third "winding". WHen the current in each of the hot and neutral is the same the magnetic fields cancel, thus nothing on the sense winding. If there is a current imbalance there is a net magnetic field and is sensed. It is the difference in current that's sensed, thus a current transformer. That's a different part of the device, like I said. That's pretty much the *entire* device. Regardless, that seems like an awful lot of technology to throw at a problem that doesn't seem (to me) like much of a problem. A fault to ground isn't a big deal to you? boggle I fail to see how a fault between ground and neutral (of the sort we were discussing) downstream of a GFCI, without some additional fault, will get you electrocuted. If there is a neutral fault you're now in the circuit. This isn't a healthy idea. But is it life threatening? Unlikely. 120V on the case isn't threatening? boggle Since the ground and neutral are tied together upstream, why is it a problem if they're also tied together downstream? Wow! Perhaps because a neutral is designed to carry CURRENT, and a ground is *NOT*. THink about faults! The ground is there for safety! Fair enough (reserve the ground to its safety role). But you don't, e.g., protect against faults that circumvent the GFCI. What faults would those be? For instance, a short across the GFCI that effectively takes it out of the circuit. A short across the breaker takes it out of the circuit too. So? At some point the addition of safety devices becomes overdone. How will a ground-neutral fault downstream of a GFCI, without some other additional fault, get you electrocuted? Likely not. Do you want to take that chance though? Please leave my wiring alone. I don't like people taking chances with my life by talking on their cellphones while driving, either, but that doesn't necessarily mean there should be interlocks on their car to prevent it. There have been enough people killed that GFCIs were written into the code for places where they would have saved lives. It's been said that the NEC is written in blood. BTW, if a ground is incapable of carrying current (as you seem to imply), it's not much use as protection. I didn't say "incapable", I said *DOESN'T*, there is a difference. You said the ground was not "designed to carry current." Perhaps I read that too literally. It's not designed to carry current. The neutral is designed to carry current. The ground is designed to carry _fault_ current. There are cases where the ground may be smaller than the neutral because it's not designed to carry the return current. I.e., what am I missing in this picture? Faults. No, I'm well aware of the possibility of faults. Apparently not. Pfft. Well, you can't imagine faults where a washing machine case being lit up. I can. Won't normal GFCI functionality catch any such case that's a significant hazard? A parachute might catch you too, but it's a good idea to never have rely on one. There are already multiple levels of protection. The question is when one stops adding more. When one is happy with the level of protection, after all applicable safety codes have been met. Whatever. Precisely then. Seat belts and air-bags are a good idea too. -- Keith |
#59
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
krw wrote:
In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... Jeff Wisnia wrote: CJT wrote: Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. Nope, there's a 120 volt "primary" on that "current transformer" which is connected across the incoming line. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HERE! The incoming hot and neutral leads to the GFCI are "secondaries" on that transformer, and a small amount of in phase voltage gets "added" in series to both of them. Then, those leads continue through the normal differential current sensing transformer and on to the "load" side of the GFCI. My calling it a "current transformer" may not be exactly correct, but they are transformers having one winding with lots of turns of fine wire and two winding of wire heavy enough to carry the rated current of the GFCI. Now I understand. It was the terminology that threw me off. "Current transformer" means something a bit different to me. Ok, what does it mean to you? GFCI indeed do use current transformers to detect the imbalance in current between the hot an neutral. But that's not the section of the GFCI we were discussing. In what sense is it a "current transformer" if it has a primary connected between hot and neutral? Primary connected between hot and neutral? What _are_ you talking about? The portion of the thread identified above. Your writing isn't clear. The current transformer is a current transformer, no more, no less. "Primary" of what? If you go back through the thread, you'll at some point find a link to a page with a circuit diagram that relates to this. It shows the portion you're thinking of, but also an additional transformer for injecting sense current into the neutral. I can't help it if you came in late and choose to argue with incomplete knowledge. The hot and neutral have separate "windings". The current imbalance is sensed with a third "winding". WHen the current in each of the hot and neutral is the same the magnetic fields cancel, thus nothing on the sense winding. If there is a current imbalance there is a net magnetic field and is sensed. It is the difference in current that's sensed, thus a current transformer. That's a different part of the device, like I said. That's pretty much the *entire* device. Nope. See the link. Regardless, that seems like an awful lot of technology to throw at a problem that doesn't seem (to me) like much of a problem. A fault to ground isn't a big deal to you? boggle I fail to see how a fault between ground and neutral (of the sort we were discussing) downstream of a GFCI, without some additional fault, will get you electrocuted. If there is a neutral fault you're now in the circuit. This isn't a healthy idea. But is it life threatening? Unlikely. 120V on the case isn't threatening? boggle There won't BE 120V on the case, barring another fault. Since the ground and neutral are tied together upstream, why is it a problem if they're also tied together downstream? Wow! Perhaps because a neutral is designed to carry CURRENT, and a ground is *NOT*. THink about faults! The ground is there for safety! Fair enough (reserve the ground to its safety role). But you don't, e.g., protect against faults that circumvent the GFCI. What faults would those be? For instance, a short across the GFCI that effectively takes it out of the circuit. A short across the breaker takes it out of the circuit too. So? Yes, and there's no protection against that. So not all potential faults are protected against, which is my point. At some point the addition of safety devices becomes overdone. How will a ground-neutral fault downstream of a GFCI, without some other additional fault, get you electrocuted? Likely not. Do you want to take that chance though? Please leave my wiring alone. I don't like people taking chances with my life by talking on their cellphones while driving, either, but that doesn't necessarily mean there should be interlocks on their car to prevent it. There have been enough people killed that GFCIs were written into the code for places where they would have saved lives. It's been said that the NEC is written in blood. And I agree that GFCIs are a good idea. BTW, if a ground is incapable of carrying current (as you seem to imply), it's not much use as protection. I didn't say "incapable", I said *DOESN'T*, there is a difference. You said the ground was not "designed to carry current." Perhaps I read that too literally. It's not designed to carry current. The neutral is designed to carry current. The ground is designed to carry _fault_ current. There are cases where the ground may be smaller than the neutral because it's not designed to carry the return current. I don't think a piece of wire knows the difference between fault current and some other current. I.e., what am I missing in this picture? Faults. No, I'm well aware of the possibility of faults. Apparently not. Pfft. Well, you can't imagine faults where a washing machine case being lit up. I can. You have no idea what I can and can not imagine. Won't normal GFCI functionality catch any such case that's a significant hazard? A parachute might catch you too, but it's a good idea to never have rely on one. There are already multiple levels of protection. The question is when one stops adding more. When one is happy with the level of protection, after all applicable safety codes have been met. Whatever. Precisely then. Seat belts and air-bags are a good idea too. Sure. We agree on that. Although both seat belts and air bags have caused deaths, too. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#60
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
On Fri, 01 Dec 2006 11:26:08 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote: CJT wrote: Doug Miller wrote: In article , CJT wrote: But neither neutral nor ground should be more than a couple of volts above zero potential, barring an additional fault. I can see getting a tingle, but electrocuted? If the current passes across the heart (e.g. hand to hand, or hand to opposite foot), as little as twenty milliamperes can be fatal. better be careful with those AAA batteries You know, I have long pondered the same question, since "circuit wise" it's hard to see why the neutral wire wouldn't serve as a reasonable "ground" IF you neglect wiring resistance and assume that all wire terminations, once made, will remain perfect and continuous forever. That (neutral and ground being different) was one thing I had trouble with in college, when taking a NEC class. But, we know that's not always the case, and while I agree that a few volts created by an IR drop in the return lead won't hurt you unless it somehow "gets under your skin", if you've never stuck your tongue across the terminals of a 9 volt "transistor radio battery", you'd be shocked, (Even more than Captain Renault was.) to "see how that tastes." I often do that to check batteries. I have described the taste as being like lemon juice without the lemon. But, consider what maybe 3 to 5 volts of neutral voltage drop with several amps of current source driving it might do in terms of heating up some thin strip of metal, like say a piece of Xmas tree tinsel. (Izzat stuff still metal? It was when I was a kid.) I bought some tinsel a couple of years ago (for 25 cents a box at an after-season sale). It was plastic. BTW, I remember my grandparents calling the stuff "Icicles". That could raise its temperature enough to start a fire. More so if you use big lights, that get hot. So, all things considered, especially IPIO*, I think I must agree that the addition of safety grounding to building wiring, which occurred sometime during my life so far, was probably a pretty good idea, as are GFCIs. Jeff * IPIO: the innate perversity of inanimate objects -- 24 days until the winter solstice celebration Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com "Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has no place in the curriculum of our nation's public school classes." -- Ted Kennedy |
#61
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article ,
says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... Jeff Wisnia wrote: CJT wrote: Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. Nope, there's a 120 volt "primary" on that "current transformer" which is connected across the incoming line. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HERE! The incoming hot and neutral leads to the GFCI are "secondaries" on that transformer, and a small amount of in phase voltage gets "added" in series to both of them. Then, those leads continue through the normal differential current sensing transformer and on to the "load" side of the GFCI. My calling it a "current transformer" may not be exactly correct, but they are transformers having one winding with lots of turns of fine wire and two winding of wire heavy enough to carry the rated current of the GFCI. Now I understand. It was the terminology that threw me off. "Current transformer" means something a bit different to me. Ok, what does it mean to you? GFCI indeed do use current transformers to detect the imbalance in current between the hot an neutral. But that's not the section of the GFCI we were discussing. In what sense is it a "current transformer" if it has a primary connected between hot and neutral? Primary connected between hot and neutral? What _are_ you talking about? The portion of the thread identified above. Your writing isn't clear. The current transformer is a current transformer, no more, no less. "Primary" of what? If you go back through the thread, you'll at some point find a link to a page with a circuit diagram that relates to this. It shows the portion you're thinking of, but also an additional transformer for injecting sense current into the neutral. Yes, I now see that. I can't help it if you came in late and choose to argue with incomplete knowledge. You really don't have to be a prick about it. snip But is it life threatening? Unlikely. 120V on the case isn't threatening? boggle There won't BE 120V on the case, barring another fault. A ground-neutral fault can be there for *years* unnoticed. You don't think it's a good thing to call this fault out. A neutral fault isn't a stretch of the imagination after years. IMO, a ground-neutral fault is worth knowing about. Obviously someone has been killed because of this fault. It's a nickle's worth of hardware, so? Since the ground and neutral are tied together upstream, why is it a problem if they're also tied together downstream? Wow! Perhaps because a neutral is designed to carry CURRENT, and a ground is *NOT*. THink about faults! The ground is there for safety! Fair enough (reserve the ground to its safety role). But you don't, e.g., protect against faults that circumvent the GFCI. What faults would those be? For instance, a short across the GFCI that effectively takes it out of the circuit. A short across the breaker takes it out of the circuit too. So? Yes, and there's no protection against that. So not all potential faults are protected against, which is my point. The point is to try to find the discoverable faults, particularly those that have actually killed people. If it's a nickle's worth of silicon, who cares? At some point the addition of safety devices becomes overdone. How will a ground-neutral fault downstream of a GFCI, without some other additional fault, get you electrocuted? Likely not. Do you want to take that chance though? Please leave my wiring alone. I don't like people taking chances with my life by talking on their cellphones while driving, either, but that doesn't necessarily mean there should be interlocks on their car to prevent it. There have been enough people killed that GFCIs were written into the code for places where they would have saved lives. It's been said that the NEC is written in blood. And I agree that GFCIs are a good idea. THen where's your beef? BTW, if a ground is incapable of carrying current (as you seem to imply), it's not much use as protection. I didn't say "incapable", I said *DOESN'T*, there is a difference. You said the ground was not "designed to carry current." Perhaps I read that too literally. It's not designed to carry current. The neutral is designed to carry current. The ground is designed to carry _fault_ current. There are cases where the ground may be smaller than the neutral because it's not designed to carry the return current. I don't think a piece of wire knows the difference between fault current and some other current. No, but the engineer does and designs the system so that the current goes where it's supposed to and if it goes elsewhere, shut it down! I.e., what am I missing in this picture? Faults. No, I'm well aware of the possibility of faults. Apparently not. Pfft. Well, you can't imagine faults where a washing machine case being lit up. I can. You have no idea what I can and can not imagine. Your crystal ball has been showing some fog here. Won't normal GFCI functionality catch any such case that's a significant hazard? A parachute might catch you too, but it's a good idea to never have rely on one. There are already multiple levels of protection. The question is when one stops adding more. When one is happy with the level of protection, after all applicable safety codes have been met. Whatever. Precisely then. Seat belts and air-bags are a good idea too. Sure. We agree on that. Although both seat belts and air bags have caused deaths, too. Generaly when not used properly, though I don't know of a GFCI that's killed anyone. -- Keith |
#62
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
krw wrote:
In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... Jeff Wisnia wrote: CJT wrote: Jeff Wisnia wrote: Goedjn wrote: On Wed, 29 Nov 2006 16:16:40 -0500, Jeff Wisnia wrote: Pop` wrote: snipped GFI, Ground Fault Interruptor is a misnomer. "Ground" in the original case may have been ground, but now, because of poor terminology, is considered the Neutral conductor. How a GFCI operates has nothing to do with the ground. Since it senses differences in current between the hot/neutral conductors, any third wire earth ground is irrelevant to its opeartion. Hot amps = Neutral amps, all OK. Not equal, it trips. It's literally that simple. Pop` And, don't forget that the more recent GFCI's will detect a leakage path between the neutral and ground as well, and thus disconnect power when there's a neutral to ground short. Jeff Ok, I thought I knew how GFCI outlets worked, and now I find out that I didn't know how the test button worked. Fine, I'm ok with that, but this doesn't make any sense. It seems as if a nuetral-ground leak should look exactly like a hot-ground leak, except probably smaller, as there's less resistance downstream of the correct current path. How would you tell the difference even if you wanted to? --Goedjn I didn't SAY that they tell the "difference". Since their only "output means" is to open the circuit between the supply and load side of the breaker for either kind of fault, hot to ground leakage or neutral to ground shorts. They will detect and "pop" if you make a connection between their neutral output and ground, even with nothing at all connected to their hot output. Before you worry too much about how they can sense a connection between two leads which should be at the same potential (neutral and ground) if there isn't any current flowing in either of them, I'll tell you that there will be, because the GFCI contains a current transformer which adds a small in-phase voltage to both the hot and neutral output leads. ... which suggests it won't work unless/until something is drawing current from the "hot" lead. I realize that's not much of a restriction. Nope, there's a 120 volt "primary" on that "current transformer" which is connected across the incoming line. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^HERE! The incoming hot and neutral leads to the GFCI are "secondaries" on that transformer, and a small amount of in phase voltage gets "added" in series to both of them. Then, those leads continue through the normal differential current sensing transformer and on to the "load" side of the GFCI. My calling it a "current transformer" may not be exactly correct, but they are transformers having one winding with lots of turns of fine wire and two winding of wire heavy enough to carry the rated current of the GFCI. Now I understand. It was the terminology that threw me off. "Current transformer" means something a bit different to me. Ok, what does it mean to you? GFCI indeed do use current transformers to detect the imbalance in current between the hot an neutral. But that's not the section of the GFCI we were discussing. In what sense is it a "current transformer" if it has a primary connected between hot and neutral? Primary connected between hot and neutral? What _are_ you talking about? The portion of the thread identified above. Your writing isn't clear. The current transformer is a current transformer, no more, no less. "Primary" of what? If you go back through the thread, you'll at some point find a link to a page with a circuit diagram that relates to this. It shows the portion you're thinking of, but also an additional transformer for injecting sense current into the neutral. Yes, I now see that. I can't help it if you came in late and choose to argue with incomplete knowledge. You really don't have to be a prick about it. Nor have I been. snip But is it life threatening? Unlikely. 120V on the case isn't threatening? boggle There won't BE 120V on the case, barring another fault. A ground-neutral fault can be there for *years* unnoticed. You don't think it's a good thing to call this fault out. A neutral fault isn't a stretch of the imagination after years. IMO, a At least you recognize it's an opinion. ground-neutral fault is worth knowing about. Obviously someone has been killed because of this fault. It's not obvious at all. It's a nickle's worth of hardware, so? Since the ground and neutral are tied together upstream, why is it a problem if they're also tied together downstream? Wow! Perhaps because a neutral is designed to carry CURRENT, and a ground is *NOT*. THink about faults! The ground is there for safety! Fair enough (reserve the ground to its safety role). But you don't, e.g., protect against faults that circumvent the GFCI. What faults would those be? For instance, a short across the GFCI that effectively takes it out of the circuit. A short across the breaker takes it out of the circuit too. So? Yes, and there's no protection against that. So not all potential faults are protected against, which is my point. The point is to try to find the discoverable faults, particularly those that have actually killed people. If it's a nickle's worth of silicon, who cares? At some point the addition of safety devices becomes overdone. How will a ground-neutral fault downstream of a GFCI, without some other additional fault, get you electrocuted? Likely not. Do you want to take that chance though? Please leave my wiring alone. I don't like people taking chances with my life by talking on their cellphones while driving, either, but that doesn't necessarily mean there should be interlocks on their car to prevent it. There have been enough people killed that GFCIs were written into the code for places where they would have saved lives. It's been said that the NEC is written in blood. And I agree that GFCIs are a good idea. THen where's your beef? Unlike another poster in this thread, I have no "beef." BTW, if a ground is incapable of carrying current (as you seem to imply), it's not much use as protection. I didn't say "incapable", I said *DOESN'T*, there is a difference. You said the ground was not "designed to carry current." Perhaps I read that too literally. It's not designed to carry current. The neutral is designed to carry current. The ground is designed to carry _fault_ current. There are cases where the ground may be smaller than the neutral because it's not designed to carry the return current. I don't think a piece of wire knows the difference between fault current and some other current. No, but the engineer does and designs the system so that the current goes where it's supposed to and if it goes elsewhere, shut it down! I.e., what am I missing in this picture? Faults. No, I'm well aware of the possibility of faults. Apparently not. Pfft. Well, you can't imagine faults where a washing machine case being lit up. I can. You have no idea what I can and can not imagine. Your crystal ball has been showing some fog here. Won't normal GFCI functionality catch any such case that's a significant hazard? A parachute might catch you too, but it's a good idea to never have rely on one. There are already multiple levels of protection. The question is when one stops adding more. When one is happy with the level of protection, after all applicable safety codes have been met. Whatever. Precisely then. Seat belts and air-bags are a good idea too. Sure. We agree on that. Although both seat belts and air bags have caused deaths, too. Generaly when not used properly, though I don't know of a GFCI that's killed anyone. It's not hard to construct a scenario. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#63
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article ,
says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: big snip There won't BE 120V on the case, barring another fault. A ground-neutral fault can be there for *years* unnoticed. You don't think it's a good thing to call this fault out. A neutral fault isn't a stretch of the imagination after years. IMO, a At least you recognize it's an opinion. Yes, it's an opinion backed up by others. ground-neutral fault is worth knowing about. Obviously someone has been killed because of this fault. It's not obvious at all. It wouldn't be there otherwise. Again: It's a nickle's worth of hardware, so? more snippage Precisely then. Seat belts and air-bags are a good idea too. Sure. We agree on that. Although both seat belts and air bags have caused deaths, too. Saved far more. Generaly when not used properly, though I don't know of a GFCI that's killed anyone. It's not hard to construct a scenario. Please feel free. -- Keith |
#64
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
krw wrote:
In article , says... krw wrote: additional snip Generaly when not used properly, though I don't know of a GFCI that's killed anyone. It's not hard to construct a scenario. Please feel free. Have you no imagination? Think about critical power needlessly disrupted as the result of an inconsequential fault. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#65
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article ,
says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: additional snip Generaly when not used properly, though I don't know of a GFCI that's killed anyone. It's not hard to construct a scenario. Please feel free. Have you no imagination? Think about critical power needlessly disrupted as the result of an inconsequential fault. Critical devices aren't supposed to be on GFCI protected circuits. Try again. -- Keith |
#66
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article , CJT wrote:
Doug Miller wrote: In article , CJT wrote: But neither neutral nor ground should be more than a couple of volts above zero potential, barring an additional fault. I can see getting a tingle, but electrocuted? If the current passes across the heart (e.g. hand to hand, or hand to opposite foot), as little as twenty milliamperes can be fatal. better be careful with those AAA batteries DC currents don't post much of a threat to human health except at high voltage and/or amperage; even an automobile battery (12V at several dozen amps) won't kill, although it sure can hurt. 60 Hz AC at 120V, though, can be deadly at even 20 mA of current. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again. |
#67
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
krw wrote:
In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: additional snip Generaly when not used properly, though I don't know of a GFCI that's killed anyone. It's not hard to construct a scenario. Please feel free. Have you no imagination? Think about critical power needlessly disrupted as the result of an inconsequential fault. Critical devices aren't supposed to be on GFCI protected circuits. Try again. That sounds like a tacit admission that GFCIs have a downside. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#68
Posted to alt.home.repair
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I thought the GFI was supposed to trip ?????
In article ,
says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: In article , says... krw wrote: additional snip Generaly when not used properly, though I don't know of a GFCI that's killed anyone. It's not hard to construct a scenario. Please feel free. Have you no imagination? Think about critical power needlessly disrupted as the result of an inconsequential fault. Critical devices aren't supposed to be on GFCI protected circuits. Try again. That sounds like a tacit admission that GFCIs have a downside. Sheesh! -- Keith |
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