My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"
Works for me, if you ever have a problem with it, you could Rube
Goldberg in some more pipe just to have a reservoir. I'm pretty sure
mine is all 1 1/2 and it works fine.

"hombrewdude" wrote in message

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"

Mine was in the house and 1 1/2" has worked for the past 28 years.

hombrewdude wrote:

My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"


It won't be "correct". The new trap will not be vented
and waste flow from above can suck the trap dry.
You *could* add a mechanical vent to the new trap.

If the kitchen trap doesn't have a vent, it will
surely gurgle when the washer empties.

Jim

Speedy Jim wrote:
hombrewdude wrote:

My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"


It won't be "correct". The new trap will not be vented
and waste flow from above can suck the trap dry.
You *could* add a mechanical vent to the new trap.

If the kitchen trap doesn't have a vent, it will
surely gurgle when the washer empties.

Jim
my situation was the same as yours and the kitchen sink did gurgle when
the washer drained.how i fixed this was to put a t and a short piece of
pipe on the kitchen sink drain and a "ventless vent" sold at hd for
places that don't have a vent.basically its a oneway fitting that lets
air in but not out.

"hombrewdude" wrote in message
oups.com...
My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"


I believe code for a washer without a tub is 2". I know of one case
where 1 1/2" was used, and significant rot was caused by frequent
small overflows over a period of years.

Bob

What is the best way to add a vent?
I have never seen one of those for sale before.
Does it have to be on the kitchen sink?

I also have the option to tie into the drain line for the laundry sink.
It is next to the washer.
The gurgle won't be a problem there.


Speedy Jim wrote:
hombrewdude wrote:

My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"


It won't be "correct". The new trap will not be vented
and waste flow from above can suck the trap dry.
You *could* add a mechanical vent to the new trap.

If the kitchen trap doesn't have a vent, it will
surely gurgle when the washer empties.

Jim

I am in the basement.
If there is a problem, I can just pull the hose and put it back in the
sink.

I don't think using a 2" pipe spliced into a 1-1/2 is going to do much

Bob F wrote:
"hombrewdude" wrote in message
oups.com...
My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"


I believe code for a washer without a tub is 2". I know of one case
where 1 1/2" was used, and significant rot was caused by frequent
small overflows over a period of years.

Bob

hombrewdude wrote:

What is the best way to add a vent?
I have never seen one of those for sale before.
Does it have to be on the kitchen sink?

I also have the option to tie into the drain line for the laundry sink.
It is next to the washer.
The gurgle won't be a problem there.


Several vent styles:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/autovent.html
BigBox has the Oatey "AutoVent".

Jim




Speedy Jim wrote:

hombrewdude wrote:


My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"


It won't be "correct". The new trap will not be vented
and waste flow from above can suck the trap dry.
You *could* add a mechanical vent to the new trap.

If the kitchen trap doesn't have a vent, it will
surely gurgle when the washer empties.

Jim

If you are still going to have the sink, You could have a "Y" in the pipe
you are adding, with the second side going to your sink to make sure
any future overflow goes there rather than the floor. The "Y" would be
a ways under the top of the pipe where the washer hose comes in.

You are right about 2" into 1 1/2". Code would be 2" for the whole drain.

Bob

"hombrewdude" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am in the basement.
If there is a problem, I can just pull the hose and put it back in the
sink.

I don't think using a 2" pipe spliced into a 1-1/2 is going to do much

Bob F wrote:
"hombrewdude" wrote in message
oups.com...
My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"


I believe code for a washer without a tub is 2". I know of one case
where 1 1/2" was used, and significant rot was caused by frequent
small overflows over a period of years.

Bob

On 11/27/06 4:08 PM, "hombrewdude" wrote:

What is the best way to add a vent?
I have never seen one of those for sale before.
Does it have to be on the kitchen sink?

We have one from a company called STUDOR. It is on the drain from a kitchen
sink in a free standing island - no vent stack anywhere nearby.

This seems like more work then it is worth...
And I really don't want any overflows.

Whats the best way to route it into the sink??


Robert Haar wrote:
On 11/27/06 4:08 PM, "hombrewdude" wrote:

What is the best way to add a vent?
I have never seen one of those for sale before.
Does it have to be on the kitchen sink?

We have one from a company called STUDOR. It is on the drain from a kitchen
sink in a free standing island - no vent stack anywhere nearby.

hombrewdude wrote:
My old machine was routed direct to the laundry sink.
I bought a new machine, and I want to get the plumbing out of the
sink..

All of my drain pipes in my 30yr old house are 1-1/2" ABS

My kitchen sink drain runs directly behind my washing machine
Sink is upstairs, machine is in the basement.

so...

I plan on adding a 1-1/2 tee near the floor
Off the T a p trap
Off the p trap a standpipe - taller then the washer machine
Then attach the washer machine hose to the top.

Any problems with this?
I have read I should have 2" drain pipe. but all of my pipe is 1-1/2"

I checked all the responses. I don't have the 1 1/2"
problem, but when I moved in the washer had been backing
up periodically for years. I got tired of it and had
the drain replaced. The plumber offered to do it the
cheap way. He punched a hole in the foundation and
ran the new drain through that. The whole drain
assembly is exposed. He added a vent by running the
vent pipe up the wall about 7 feet and putting one of
the one way valves on top of it. So if you are in the
garage you can do it that way.

I have also seen sink draings vented using the same
technique under the cabinet. I expect the vent needs
to be above the level of the trap.

Bill Gill