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#1
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Back support for drywall patch
Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that
you're patching so that you can attach the drywall. I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, or is it something more. I'm just having trouble seeing it because drywall isn't very strong, so using drywall to hold up the backing wood, so that you can secure the patch sounds like a recipe for a bigger hole to patch. |
#2
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Back support for drywall patch
That's one way of doing it, a few screws hold it in place ( driven
through the undamaged drywal) Sometimes you can't avoid a bigger hole, the trick is to avoid having to do it twice! Eigenvector wrote: Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that you're patching so that you can attach the drywall. I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, or is it something more. I'm just having trouble seeing it because drywall isn't very strong, so using drywall to hold up the backing wood, so that you can secure the patch sounds like a recipe for a bigger hole to patch. |
#3
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Back support for drywall patch
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#4
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Back support for drywall patch
"Eigenvector" wrote in
: Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that you're patching so that you can attach the drywall. I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, or is it something more. I'm just having trouble seeing it because drywall isn't very strong, so using drywall to hold up the backing wood, so that you can secure the patch sounds like a recipe for a bigger hole to patch. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, That works in many cases. I've also used various types of glue depending on what I'm doing. I've even used drywall mud on the ends as well as liquid nails. It just depends on what I'm doing, how picky, how much strength I need, how visable it will be, will it ever be bumped, etc. Just put on ends, put stick in wall. sketch: http://i12.tinypic.com/4doaold.jpg A favorite stick of mine to use are paint sticks. Lotsa BORG sticks behind the walls in houses I've worked on! They can be cut and split with a razor knife as well as hand broken. Not too good for screwing into though. 1 gal sticks will split easily. 5 gal much sturdier being 1/4 thick. BORG sticks (1 & 5 gal) are also great for putting in stripped wood screw holes. Cut to size with extra length, coat with wood glue, hammer in hole as flush as possible. When thoroughly dry, trim any protruding wood with utility knife. 5 gal BORG sticks also good for wall spaces of laminate floor requiring 1/4 space. |
#5
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Back support for drywall patch
On Sat, 7 Oct 2006 12:21:45 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote: Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that you're patching so that you can attach the drywall. I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, or is it something more. I'm just having trouble seeing it because drywall isn't very strong, so using drywall to hold up the backing wood, so that you can secure the patch sounds like a recipe for a bigger hole to patch. I've never done this with any method, but HD and maybe other places sell clips, in a package of 4 or 4 or 6 that go onto the remainder of good wall and let you clip in the patch, and finish that with a screw, provided, for each clip. After you have done most of the spackling or mudding or whatever, you can break off the clip tabs that show and spackle over the tiny stubs that I think are a bit below surface level. Having not replaced my roof soon enough, I have to do a 4' x 4' patch sometime. Of course there I can nail to the wachamacallits, trusses?, and the hard part will be holding the thing up by myself until I get some screws in. I don't know if the clips will help or not. |
#6
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Back support for drywall patch
"Al Bundy" wrote in message ... "Eigenvector" wrote in : Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that you're patching so that you can attach the drywall. I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, or is it something more. I'm just having trouble seeing it because drywall isn't very strong, so using drywall to hold up the backing wood, so that you can secure the patch sounds like a recipe for a bigger hole to patch. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, That works in many cases. I've also used various types of glue depending on what I'm doing. I've even used drywall mud on the ends as well as liquid nails. It just depends on what I'm doing, how picky, how much strength I need, how visable it will be, will it ever be bumped, etc. Just put on ends, put stick in wall. sketch: http://i12.tinypic.com/4doaold.jpg A favorite stick of mine to use are paint sticks. Lotsa BORG sticks behind the walls in houses I've worked on! They can be cut and split with a razor knife as well as hand broken. Not too good for screwing into though. 1 gal sticks will split easily. 5 gal much sturdier being 1/4 thick. BORG sticks (1 & 5 gal) are also great for putting in stripped wood screw holes. Cut to size with extra length, coat with wood glue, hammer in hole as flush as possible. When thoroughly dry, trim any protruding wood with utility knife. 5 gal BORG sticks also good for wall spaces of laminate floor requiring 1/4 space. That's a good idea, its not like its a load bearing surface or something. It just has to hold the patch long enough for the drywall mud to set. |
#7
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Back support for drywall patch
On Sat, 7 Oct 2006 14:04:15 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote: That's a good idea, its not like its a load bearing surface or something. It just has to hold the patch long enough for the drywall mud to set. It COULD be a load bearing surface, at some time in the future. Perhaps a load of a different kind. Depending upon where the repair is located, I would be concerned about somebody bumping a broom handle into a weak spot and having to repair the wall again. Somebody might trip and put their hand out to break their fall and have it go through the repaired spot. I prefer slightly more substantial bracing behind my drywall repairs, and I prefer to have them securely screwed in place. |
#9
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Back support for drywall patch
Paul wrote in
news On Sat, 7 Oct 2006 14:04:15 -0700, "Eigenvector" wrote: That's a good idea, its not like its a load bearing surface or something. It just has to hold the patch long enough for the drywall mud to set. It COULD be a load bearing surface, at some time in the future. Perhaps a load of a different kind. Depending upon where the repair is located, I would be concerned about somebody bumping a broom handle into a weak spot and having to repair the wall again. Somebody might trip and put their hand out to break their fall and have it go through the repaired spot. I prefer slightly more substantial bracing behind my drywall repairs, and I prefer to have them securely screwed in place. At HD,they have these drywall repair clips having breakoff tabs that hold in the replacement piece of drywall,then screws go thru the metal clip to hold botht he new piece and the clip to the original drywall. -- Jim Yanik jyanik at kua.net |
#10
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Back support for drywall patch
"Eigenvector" wrote in message . .. Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that you're patching so that you can attach the drywall. I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, or is it something more. It's nothing more. It's strong. If the surrounding drywall is damaged, that's another matter. |
#11
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Back support for drywall patch
Jim Yanik wrote:
Get some free paint stirring sticks from the store,and some construction adhesive,like that new stuff with the fast grip,I can't recall the name. Regular Liquid Nails can be used as a contact cement. Glue the pieces together. Pull them apart. Wait three minutes. Stick them back together. |
#12
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Back support for drywall patch
Eigenvector wrote:
Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that you're patching so that you can attach the drywall. I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, or is it something more. I'm just having trouble seeing it because drywall isn't very strong, so using drywall to hold up the backing wood, so that you can secure the patch sounds like a recipe for a bigger hole to patch. How big is this hole you're trying to patch? I usually cut a piece of cardboard or paperboard a little bigger than the hole. Punch a little hole in the middle and tie a string to it. Put the card thru the hole and pull it tight to the back of the drywall with the string. Then patch the hole with plaster of paris. Don't quite fill it flush with the surrounding wall; if there are any high spots, trim them down after the plaster sets but before it really gets hard. After it hardens, fill and smooth using spackle. Best regards, Bob |
#13
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Back support for drywall patch
Bob that's the trick I've seen somewhere as well. But the version I
learned is to use a piece of drywall as a backing instead of the cardboard. Then when it sets you cut the string and fill it in. |
#14
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Back support for drywall patch
On 7 Oct 2006 20:08:18 -0700, "Father Haskell"
wrote: Jim Yanik wrote: Get some free paint stirring sticks from the store,and some construction adhesive,like that new stuff with the fast grip,I can't recall the name. Regular Liquid Nails can be used as a contact cement. Glue the pieces together. Pull them apart. Wait three minutes. Stick them back together. Pull Apart after initial pushing together is something I've just started doing. In fact some of my newer power glues advise to: 1. Apply glue to one surface only. 2. Press surfaces together 3. Pull Apart about 1/2 inch then Press together again. 4. Repeat several times to speed bonding. I've never done that before, but I like the way it thins out the layer of adhesive and thus speeds up the bonding. |
#15
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Back support for drywall patch
zxcvbob wrote: Eigenvector wrote: Everyone talks about how to put a thin strip of wood behind the hole that you're patching so that you can attach the drywall. I can do that, but I'm having problems visualizing how you would attach the wood backing. Is it as simple screwing a hole in the surrounding drywall and into the wood backing, or is it something more. I'm just having trouble seeing it because drywall isn't very strong, so using drywall to hold up the backing wood, so that you can secure the patch sounds like a recipe for a bigger hole to patch. How big is this hole you're trying to patch? I usually cut a piece of cardboard or paperboard a little bigger than the hole. Punch a little hole in the middle and tie a string to it. Put the card thru the hole and pull it tight to the back of the drywall with the string. Then patch the hole with plaster of paris. Don't quite fill it flush with the surrounding wall; if there are any high spots, trim them down after the plaster sets but before it really gets hard. After it hardens, fill and smooth using spackle. Best regards, Bob I try to use something stronger than cardboard, like an old piece of drywall, or some screening if you have to bend it to get it through the hole. I use plaster for my repairs, as I think it is stronger than mud. If you put some plaster, mud, or even glue, on the edges of the patch and the interior edges of the hole, it will hold very well when you tighten the string, and give a good base for your repair coat. I wouldn't worry too much about the strength of the patch, given that you are dealing with a wall built of drywall, which is not noted for its strength, and your patch will almost certainly be at least as strong as the rest of the wall. |
#16
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Back support for drywall patch
According to Paul :
I prefer slightly more substantial bracing behind my drywall repairs, and I prefer to have them securely screwed in place. I use 1x2s or 2x3s and drywall screws. In some places, I use special screws. They have a thin perforated washer that looks like a cross between a crown/dimple washer and a fender washer. About 1" in diameter. When driven home, they're practically flush. They're carried in various places. Lee Valley has them. I suspect the borg now does too. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. |
#17
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Back support for drywall patch
"Chris Lewis" wrote in message ... According to Paul : I prefer slightly more substantial bracing behind my drywall repairs, and I prefer to have them securely screwed in place. I use 1x2s or 2x3s and drywall screws. In some places, I use special screws. They have a thin perforated washer that looks like a cross between a crown/dimple washer and a fender washer. About 1" in diameter. When driven home, they're practically flush. They're carried in various places. Lee Valley has them. I suspect the borg now does too. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. Wow, thanks for the ideas rolling in. I didn't realize that there were so many options here. |
#18
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Back support for drywall patch
Eigenvector posted for all of us...
"Chris Lewis" wrote in message ... According to Paul : I prefer slightly more substantial bracing behind my drywall repairs, and I prefer to have them securely screwed in place. I use 1x2s or 2x3s and drywall screws. In some places, I use special screws. They have a thin perforated washer that looks like a cross between a crown/dimple washer and a fender washer. About 1" in diameter. When driven home, they're practically flush. They're carried in various places. Lee Valley has them. I suspect the borg now does too. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. Wow, thanks for the ideas rolling in. I didn't realize that there were so many options here. So maybe the next person that has this problem will do a LITTLE research before asking? I guess it's too much to ask.... -- Tekkie "There's no such thing as a tool I don't need." |
#19
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Back support for drywall patch
"Tekkie®" wrote in message . .. Eigenvector posted for all of us... "Chris Lewis" wrote in message ... According to Paul : I prefer slightly more substantial bracing behind my drywall repairs, and I prefer to have them securely screwed in place. I use 1x2s or 2x3s and drywall screws. In some places, I use special screws. They have a thin perforated washer that looks like a cross between a crown/dimple washer and a fender washer. About 1" in diameter. When driven home, they're practically flush. They're carried in various places. Lee Valley has them. I suspect the borg now does too. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. Wow, thanks for the ideas rolling in. I didn't realize that there were so many options here. So maybe the next person that has this problem will do a LITTLE research before asking? I guess it's too much to ask.... Yeah, god forbid a new idea gets through. Besides, these newsgroups are for the personal amusement of the "regulars" not newbie questions. -- Tekkie "There's no such thing as a tool I don't need." |
#20
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Back support for drywall patch
On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 16:20:06 -0700, "Eigenvector"
wrote: "Chris Lewis" wrote in message ... According to Paul : I prefer slightly more substantial bracing behind my drywall repairs, and I prefer to have them securely screwed in place. I use 1x2s or 2x3s and drywall screws. In some places, I use special screws. They have a thin perforated washer that looks like a cross between a crown/dimple washer and a fender washer. About 1" in diameter. When driven home, they're practically flush. They're carried in various places. Lee Valley has them. I suspect the borg now does too. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them. Wow, thanks for the ideas rolling in. I didn't realize that there were so many options here. I premake drywall patchesabout 5 inch square then remove back paper and gypsum interion from a 3/4 inch perimeter leaving only the face paper layer, I open up the damage to 3 1/2 inch square, mud the perimeter of the hole, apply patch some mud on top and done. jesse. |
#21
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Back support for drywall patch
Eigenvector posted for all of us...
Yeah, god forbid a new idea gets through. Besides, these newsgroups are for the personal amusement of the "regulars" not newbie questions. How the heck would you know if it's a new idea or not? You never researched it so don't pull that baloney. You NEVER research ANYTHING you just belch out your question and it's pretty poor to blame it on newbie status; it shows your ignorance. -- Tekkie "There's no such thing as a tool I don't need." |
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