Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 27
Default More wiring questions

One thing I see in print a lot is that many codes require 8 inches of
workable wire to extend beyond the face of the electrical box when you
install a switch or outlet. This seems to be a lot and is difficult to
work with especially if you are using 12/2 wiring in a standard size
box. It's a little better with a deeper box, but still seems
excessive.

I was wondering whether current codes require that you actually stuff 8
inches of wire into boxes or whether this is what you leave at the
rough in inspection stage to be trimmed to fit when switches are
actually installed. I am doing some of my own work, but I have had
work done here by a real electrician and he is not stuffing in 8 inches
of wire.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

  #2   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 49
Default More wiring questions

8" from where the wire exits the raceway or sheath.
If its in the back of the box and the box is 2" then only 6" out
front.
If you are using 12-2 then you need to strip the sheath off where its
entering the box as soon as you can and not have to deal with all the
sheaths on the cable.




On 6 Oct 2006 16:48:25 -0700, "jimbob" wrote:

One thing I see in print a lot is that many codes require 8 inches of
workable wire to extend beyond the face of the electrical box when you
install a switch or outlet. This seems to be a lot and is difficult to
work with especially if you are using 12/2 wiring in a standard size
box. It's a little better with a deeper box, but still seems
excessive.

I was wondering whether current codes require that you actually stuff 8
inches of wire into boxes or whether this is what you leave at the
rough in inspection stage to be trimmed to fit when switches are
actually installed. I am doing some of my own work, but I have had
work done here by a real electrician and he is not stuffing in 8 inches
of wire.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

  #3   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,901
Default More wiring questions

"jimbob" wrote in message
oups.com...
One thing I see in print a lot is that many codes require 8 inches of
workable wire to extend beyond the face of the electrical box when you
install a switch or outlet. This seems to be a lot and is difficult to
work with especially if you are using 12/2 wiring in a standard size
box. It's a little better with a deeper box, but still seems
excessive.

I was wondering whether current codes require that you actually stuff 8
inches of wire into boxes or whether this is what you leave at the
rough in inspection stage to be trimmed to fit when switches are
actually installed. I am doing some of my own work, but I have had
work done here by a real electrician and he is not stuffing in 8 inches
of wire.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.


What Tazz said is right. Even so, if I need a new box for a single switch or
outlet, I still make it a double. I hate tight boxes, and they only get
tighter if you decide to install a dimmer or timer later.


  #4   Report Post  
Posted to alt.home.repair
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 557
Default More wiring questions

On 6 Oct 2006 16:48:25 -0700, "jimbob" wrote:

One thing I see in print a lot is that many codes require 8 inches of
workable wire to extend beyond the face of the electrical box when you
install a switch or outlet. This seems to be a lot and is difficult to
work with especially if you are using 12/2 wiring in a standard size
box. It's a little better with a deeper box, but still seems
excessive.

I was wondering whether current codes require that you actually stuff 8
inches of wire into boxes or whether this is what you leave at the
rough in inspection stage to be trimmed to fit when switches are
actually installed. I am doing some of my own work, but I have had
work done here by a real electrician and he is not stuffing in 8 inches
of wire.

Any thoughts?


I wonder where you are reading the codes? If memory searves me right,
for simple device boxes, it's 6" beyond the sheath/connector and
atleast 3" beyond the opening/edge of the box for free ends.

For me, I typically cut my conductor free ends to about 7-8", since I
like to help the next guy out when he has to replace a device, or I
make a 'mistake'.

Like all NG posts, this isn't a how-to, allways follow all
building/elec/fire codes.

later,

tom



Thanks.



Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
I have some questions abotu carillons [email protected] Electronics Repair 0 May 20th 06 09:11 PM
I have some Questions about Carillons [email protected] Electronics Repair 0 May 20th 06 09:09 PM
7.5hp 3 phase, 440v to 220v. Am I wiring this up right? Greg Deputy Metalworking 16 March 9th 05 02:14 AM
Garage welder wiring questions Tom Gardner Metalworking 4 September 26th 03 06:51 PM
Garage welder wiring questions Tom Kendrick Metalworking 1 September 26th 03 12:56 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 04:36 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"