First up, the facts, which will probably give you a good idea about my
cooling problem:

I do shift work, so I've had to black out my windows with black
plastic. Not the thin stuff used for trash cans, this stuff is a bit
thicker. Behind this, the blinds are pulled down. You're probably
thinking this is the cause for my cooling problem, but at most, there's
a 3c temperature difference, and I've been just as uncomfortable during
summers when I haven't had this setup. For some reason, I also don't
sweat, no matter how hot it gets (mostly 25-30c days, with a few
getting to 40). I've tried a swamp cooler, but I can't feel anything
from it unless I'm an inch from it - that suggests to me that it's
either very humid or very dry in here. Having windows/external doors
aren't great options for 2 reasons - it would have to be while I'm
sleeping, so I'd be screwed when it comes to insurance, and because I'm
pulling night shifts, noise when I'm going about my business could be a
problem for the neighborhood. Anyway, my floor plan

(combined kitchen and lounge, the bedroom is about the same size as the
lounge section - in front of the sofa - the windows I'm talking about
are about 2x3m in both the lounge and kitchen, at the "top" part of the
diagram):

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/37/ceilingfan2cx8.gif

For this section, I only really need cooling where I'm working, in the
upper-right corner, but as you can see, having such a huge surrounding
space causes problems. Unfortunately, portable a/c might not be an
option, as a) I need 24/7 cooling, and b) the exhausts for those are
set up for open windows - and to make thinks worse, I have horizontal
sliding ones.

About $US300 is my budget, which could cause problems if I'd need
in-wall a/c for the lounge and bedroom. I've heard different things
from different people about ceiling fans - they work great no matter
what, and they're useless unless you have fresh air coming in. I'm not
too sure about the latter, as pederstal fans provide *some* relief
without fresh air. Ceiling fans would be great if they worked, as
they're pretty cheap (from $US30 for a 40"), and I could easily have a
few installed if needs be. However, there's one catch - if one with
longer than a 1 foot drop is mounted further ahead than the sofa, it's
going to cast a shadow with my projector. I could sure live with it
for summer, but having to deal with it for the rest of the 3 seasons
would be a pain... ideally I could mount one over my workspace, which
wouldn't intefere.

I've got some pretty high hopes, haven't I? Nevertheless, there has to
be a solution somewhere, if anyone can advise me, I'd really appreciate
it.

wrote:
First up, the facts, which will probably give you a good idea about my
cooling problem:
Unfortunately, portable a/c might not be an
option, as a) I need 24/7 cooling, and b) the exhausts for those are
set up for open windows - and to make thinks worse, I have horizontal
sliding ones.

You can find an AC which will fit in a horizonal window. they are out
there.

Lawrence wrote:
wrote:
First up, the facts, which will probably give you a good idea about my
cooling problem:
Unfortunately, portable a/c might not be an
option, as a) I need 24/7 cooling, and b) the exhausts for those are
set up for open windows - and to make thinks worse, I have horizontal
sliding ones.

You can find an AC which will fit in a horizonal window. they are out
there.

If I can only get 1, how will a ceiling fan work out for the other room?

portable A/C would be graea, but all the ones I have seen would be out
of your price range. as an option, how about creating some sort of
baffle to let air in, and keep light out, maybe something to fit over
your windows that drops to the floor and is painted black on the
inside, with a sharp cut up at the bottom.

Empresser #124457


The best Games


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href=http://www.gamestotal.com/Strategy Games/abra
href=http://uc.gamestotal.com/Unification Wars/a - a
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Games/abra href=http://gc.gamestotal.com/Galactic Conquest/a -
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href=http://www.stephenyong.com/runescape.htmRunescape/abra
href=http://www.stephenyong.com/kingsofchaos.htmKings of chaos/abr

wrote:
First up, the facts, which will probably give you a good idea about my
cooling problem:

I do shift work, so I've had to black out my windows with black
plastic. Not the thin stuff used for trash cans, this stuff is a bit
thicker. Behind this, the blinds are pulled down. You're probably
thinking this is the cause for my cooling problem, but at most, there's
a 3c temperature difference, and I've been just as uncomfortable during
summers when I haven't had this setup. For some reason, I also don't
sweat, no matter how hot it gets (mostly 25-30c days, with a few
getting to 40). I've tried a swamp cooler, but I can't feel anything
from it unless I'm an inch from it - that suggests to me that it's
either very humid or very dry in here. Having windows/external doors
aren't great options for 2 reasons - it would have to be while I'm
sleeping, so I'd be screwed when it comes to insurance, and because I'm
pulling night shifts, noise when I'm going about my business could be a
problem for the neighborhood. Anyway, my floor plan

(combined kitchen and lounge, the bedroom is about the same size as the
lounge section - in front of the sofa - the windows I'm talking about
are about 2x3m in both the lounge and kitchen, at the "top" part of the
diagram):

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/37/ceilingfan2cx8.gif

For this section, I only really need cooling where I'm working, in the
upper-right corner, but as you can see, having such a huge surrounding
space causes problems. Unfortunately, portable a/c might not be an
option, as a) I need 24/7 cooling, and b) the exhausts for those are
set up for open windows - and to make thinks worse, I have horizontal
sliding ones.

About $US300 is my budget, which could cause problems if I'd need
in-wall a/c for the lounge and bedroom. I've heard different things
from different people about ceiling fans - they work great no matter
what, and they're useless unless you have fresh air coming in. I'm not
too sure about the latter, as pederstal fans provide *some* relief
without fresh air. Ceiling fans would be great if they worked, as
they're pretty cheap (from $US30 for a 40"), and I could easily have a
few installed if needs be. However, there's one catch - if one with
longer than a 1 foot drop is mounted further ahead than the sofa, it's
going to cast a shadow with my projector. I could sure live with it
for summer, but having to deal with it for the rest of the 3 seasons
would be a pain... ideally I could mount one over my workspace, which
wouldn't intefere.

I've got some pretty high hopes, haven't I? Nevertheless, there has to
be a solution somewhere, if anyone can advise me, I'd really appreciate
it.

On 27 Sep 2006 09:02:10 -0700, wrote:


Lawrence wrote:
wrote:
First up, the facts, which will probably give you a good idea about my
cooling problem:
Unfortunately, portable a/c might not be an
option, as a) I need 24/7 cooling, and b) the exhausts for those are
set up for open windows - and to make thinks worse, I have horizontal
sliding ones.

You can find an AC which will fit in a horizonal window. they are out
there.

If I can only get 1, how will a ceiling fan work out for the other room?


I use my ceiling fans in conjunction with my AC. Keeps us comfortable
higher thermistat settings on the AC.

Another plus, ceiling fans work in the winter time too, to even out
room temps.

BTW, can you tell I like'em?

later,

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

Tom The Great wrote:
On 27 Sep 2006 09:02:10 -0700, wrote:


Lawrence wrote:
wrote:
First up, the facts, which will probably give you a good idea about my
cooling problem:
Unfortunately, portable a/c might not be an
option, as a) I need 24/7 cooling, and b) the exhausts for those are
set up for open windows - and to make thinks worse, I have horizontal
sliding ones.

You can find an AC which will fit in a horizonal window. they are out
there.

If I can only get 1, how will a ceiling fan work out for the other room?


I use my ceiling fans in conjunction with my AC. Keeps us comfortable
higher thermistat settings on the AC.

Another plus, ceiling fans work in the winter time too, to even out
room temps.

BTW, can you tell I like'em?

later,

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

Hypothesis: running a ceiling fan backwards in the winter will move
warm air from the ceiling downwards.

Room: 18 foot by 13 foot, slanted ceiling 12 foot high at one end of
the long side, 9 foot high at the other. Two normal size doors, both
open. Hunter fan on 3 foot (i think) rod with 100 watt light (on)
operating in reverse (upwards) at low speed.

temp: (3 digital thermometers, all gave same reading when side by side)
outside temp at start: 39 degrees. inside temp at center of wall at
tall end of room (inside wall) 4 foot up, 60 degrees. inside temp at
center of long wall (inside wall) 2 foot up, 58 degrees. 51% humidity
in room.

results: when fan was turned on, 2 foot up thermometer gradually rose
from 58 degrees to 62 degrees over an hour and more or less stabilized.
4 foot up thermometer didn't change. Outside temp dropped to 32
degrees. when fan was turned off, 2 foot up thermometer dropped to 57
degrees over an hour. 4 foot up thermometer dropped to 59 degrees.
outside thermometer died, maybe it got too cold for the halfdead
batteries.

subjective results: observer sitting next to 2 foot high thermometer
(me) noted that despite rising temp, it felt chilly with the fan on,
even though no obvious draft was evident. similarly it felt warmer when
the fan was turned off, even though it was cooling down.

conclusion: leave the fan off, I guess.

On 2006-10-28, RLM wrote:

I wonder if anyone knows why they came with five blades in the first
place when they seem more efficient with four.

5 blades are much easier to balance than four blades.

Wayne

Tom The Great wrote:
On 27 Sep 2006 09:02:10 -0700, wrote:


Lawrence wrote:
wrote:
First up, the facts, which will probably give you a good idea about my
cooling problem:
Unfortunately, portable a/c might not be an
option, as a) I need 24/7 cooling, and b) the exhausts for those are
set up for open windows - and to make thinks worse, I have horizontal
sliding ones.

You can find an AC which will fit in a horizonal window. they are out
there.

If I can only get 1, how will a ceiling fan work out for the other room?


I use my ceiling fans in conjunction with my AC. Keeps us comfortable
higher thermistat settings on the AC.

Another plus, ceiling fans work in the winter time too, to even out
room temps.

BTW, can you tell I like'em?

later,

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

Hypothesis: running a ceiling fan backwards in the winter will move
warm air from the ceiling downwards.

Room: 18 foot by 13 foot, slanted ceiling 12 foot high at one end of
the long side, 9 foot high at the other. Two normal size doors, both
open. Hunter fan on 3 foot (i think) rod with 100 watt light (on)
operating in reverse (upwards) at low speed.

temp: (3 digital thermometers, all gave same reading when side by side)
outside temp at start: 39 degrees. inside temp at center of wall at
tall end of room (inside wall) 4 foot up, 60 degrees. inside temp at
center of long wall (inside wall) 2 foot up, 58 degrees. 51% humidity
in room.

results: when fan was turned on, 2 foot up thermometer gradually rose
from 58 degrees to 62 degrees over an hour and more or less stabilized.
4 foot up thermometer didn't change. Outside temp dropped to 32
degrees. when fan was turned off, 2 foot up thermometer dropped to 57
degrees over an hour. 4 foot up thermometer dropped to 59 degrees.
outside thermometer died, maybe it got too cold for the halfdead
batteries.

subjective results: observer sitting next to 2 foot high thermometer
(me) noted that despite rising temp, it felt chilly with the fan on,
even though no obvious draft was evident. similarly it felt warmer when
the fan was turned off, even though it was cooling down.

conclusion: leave the fan off, I guess.

Hypothesis: running a ceiling fan backwards in the winter will move
warm air from the ceiling downwards.

Room: 18 foot by 13 foot, slanted ceiling 12 foot high at one end of
the long side, 9 foot high at the other. Two normal size doors, both
open. Hunter fan on 3 foot (i think) rod with 100 watt light (on)
operating in reverse (upwards) at low speed.

temp: (3 digital thermometers, all gave same reading when side by side)
outside temp at start: 39 degrees. inside temp at center of wall at
tall end of room (inside wall) 4 foot up, 60 degrees. inside temp at
center of long wall (inside wall) 2 foot up, 58 degrees. 51% humidity
in room.

results: when fan was turned on, 2 foot up thermometer gradually rose
from 58 degrees to 62 degrees over an hour and more or less stabilized.
4 foot up thermometer didn't change. Outside temp dropped to 32
degrees. when fan was turned off, 2 foot up thermometer dropped to 57
degrees over an hour. 4 foot up thermometer dropped to 59 degrees.
outside thermometer died, maybe it got too cold for the halfdead
batteries.

subjective results: observer sitting next to 2 foot high thermometer
(me) noted that despite rising temp, it felt chilly with the fan on,
even though no obvious draft was evident. similarly it felt warmer when
the fan was turned off, even though it was cooling down.

conclusion: leave the fan off, I guess.

Figure out how much power the fan draws, and get
a heat-lamp of roughly the same wattage.

Inneresting speriment.
Unfortunate "result", as the temp differential, esp. w/ 12 ft ceilings, can
be substantial.

I think I saw something like the following, or dreamed it.
Take a large tube, 4,6,8" diam, , 12 ft long, w/ a muffin (computer) fan on
one end, sucking in at the top, and another one blowing out at the
bottom--paper mills have these type tubes, or you can make one from
cardboard, 1/4 ply (sq cross section), PVC, whatever.
This should distribute the collected warm air up top, w/ the mass-flow of a
ceiling fan that appears to give a cooling effect.
You could also put an elbow at the bottom, and run a long horizontal piece
as well, drilled/vented periodically, for more even distribution of the warm
air, less overall air disturbance.
Put in fans as needed.
Get a cheap bell transformer to run salvaged pyooter fans--or use the
pyooter power supply itself.!
120 V muffin fans are a little hard to find, pricey from Grainger--$20 +,
iirc.

You might try also removing two blades on the ceiling fan, or raising it
closer to the ceiling.
Ceiling fans can be really great $$-savers, in summer and winter, and yeah,
reversing it in winter is exactly right.
Post back! These diy solutions are always interesting.
--
Mr. P.V.'d (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY
Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, for *Anyone BUT* a Democrat or a Republican
Ending Corruption in Congress is the Single Best Way
to Materially Improve Your Life
entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply--ie,
all d'numbuhs
"z" wrote in message
oups.com...
Tom The Great wrote:
On 27 Sep 2006 09:02:10 -0700, wrote:


Lawrence wrote:
wrote:
First up, the facts, which will probably give you a good idea about
my
cooling problem:
Unfortunately, portable a/c might not be an
option, as a) I need 24/7 cooling, and b) the exhausts for those are
set up for open windows - and to make thinks worse, I have
horizontal
sliding ones.

You can find an AC which will fit in a horizonal window. they are out
there.

If I can only get 1, how will a ceiling fan work out for the other room?


I use my ceiling fans in conjunction with my AC. Keeps us comfortable
higher thermistat settings on the AC.

Another plus, ceiling fans work in the winter time too, to even out
room temps.

BTW, can you tell I like'em?

later,

tom @ www.Consolidated-Loans.info

Hypothesis: running a ceiling fan backwards in the winter will move
warm air from the ceiling downwards.

Room: 18 foot by 13 foot, slanted ceiling 12 foot high at one end of
the long side, 9 foot high at the other. Two normal size doors, both
open. Hunter fan on 3 foot (i think) rod with 100 watt light (on)
operating in reverse (upwards) at low speed.

temp: (3 digital thermometers, all gave same reading when side by side)
outside temp at start: 39 degrees. inside temp at center of wall at
tall end of room (inside wall) 4 foot up, 60 degrees. inside temp at
center of long wall (inside wall) 2 foot up, 58 degrees. 51% humidity
in room.

results: when fan was turned on, 2 foot up thermometer gradually rose
from 58 degrees to 62 degrees over an hour and more or less stabilized.
4 foot up thermometer didn't change. Outside temp dropped to 32
degrees. when fan was turned off, 2 foot up thermometer dropped to 57
degrees over an hour. 4 foot up thermometer dropped to 59 degrees.
outside thermometer died, maybe it got too cold for the halfdead
batteries.

subjective results: observer sitting next to 2 foot high thermometer
(me) noted that despite rising temp, it felt chilly with the fan on,
even though no obvious draft was evident. similarly it felt warmer when
the fan was turned off, even though it was cooling down.

conclusion: leave the fan off, I guess.