Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte

I have found the best way is to hoist it up by the front with a chain fall
or block and tackel. You need a heavy tree branch or a kids swing set or
something similar to attach it .
Don't tip it on it's side, as you risk draining base oil out through the
crank case vent and into the top part of the engine.
Most likely there are two blades under there. One may be not operating
correctly. Also check that the deck is hanging level.
Good luck.
"Brigitte" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte

It should be designed so that the mower deck can be removed and flipped
over. By the time you mess with jacks, stands, ropes, trees, etc, it's
just easier to remove the deck. Safer too.

-rev




Brigitte wrote:
Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte

how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

My dad always had an eye bolt on the front of the frame & used a
come-a-long to raise it. Until I got my 4 post lift I used the floor
jack & shoved 8" X 8" blocks under the front wheels. However you go
about, it safety first!! I doubt a falling lawn tractor would kill you,
but it would definitely ruin your day. As to mowing unevenly, check
tire pressure on tractors with no bogey wheels, it is critical to have
them pretty even. If you have bogey wheels, condition and adjustment
will effect cut more than the tractor tires.

The Reverend Natural Light wrote:
It should be designed so that the mower deck can be removed and flipped
over. By the time you mess with jacks, stands, ropes, trees, etc, it's
just easier to remove the deck. Safer too.

-rev

Hi rev,
If I removed the deck, would I be able to access the blades easily?
Will I be able to remove the blades if I need to? Or will I need to
raise or lift the tractor to do that?

Thanks,
Brigitte




Brigitte wrote:
Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte

If I

John Lawrence wrote:
I have found the best way is to hoist it up by the front with a chain fall
or block and tackel. You need a heavy tree branch or a kids swing set or
something similar to attach it .
Don't tip it on it's side, as you risk draining base oil out through the
crank case vent and into the top part of the engine.
Most likely there are two blades under there. One may be not operating
correctly. Also check that the deck is hanging level.
Good luck.

Hi John,
Thanks for your reply. I have inadvertantly stepped on the deck while
exiting the tractor. I realize this is a no-no, and given my size, an
even *bigger* no-no. (cringe)

If the deck is leaning to one side, does that mean that the blade is
also leaning? Since I don't know how these things are assembled, I
wasn't sure if that was necessarily the case. I've thought about
"stepping" onto the opposite side to make it level, but I didn't want
to make the situation worse.

Any advise is appreciated.
Brigitte


"Brigitte" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte


Hi

"Brigitte" wrote in
ups.com:

Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte


Buy a pair of those ramps for working under autos;you drive up onto
them,and they have stops molded into them so you don't go too far.

Then drive your tractor up on them(then turn it OFF),and slide under and
remove the blade;take it to a sharpening shop.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:
"Brigitte" wrote in
ups.com:

Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte


Buy a pair of those ramps for working under autos;you drive up onto
them,and they have stops molded into them so you don't go too far.

Then drive your tractor up on them(then turn it OFF),and slide under and
remove the blade;take it to a sharpening shop.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Hi Jim,
I have been mulling this idea over in my head, but worry that the 6
inches these ramps would give me would not be enough room to work.

One person has suggested lifting the tractor and putting it on large
blocks, although I'm not sure it would be the safest way to go. Going
to watch this thread till this weekend and see what suggestions/ideas
people come up with.

Thanks for your reply.
Brigitte

The Reverend Natural Light wrote:
It should be designed so that the mower deck can be removed and flipped
over. By the time you mess with jacks, stands, ropes, trees, etc, it's
just easier to remove the deck. Safer too.

-rev

Amen Rev.

Should just be two pins to remove the deck.

"Brigitte" wrote in message
oups.com...

Jim Yanik wrote:
"Brigitte" wrote in
ups.com:

Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine
Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte


Buy a pair of those ramps for working under autos;you drive up onto
them,and they have stops molded into them so you don't go too far.

Then drive your tractor up on them(then turn it OFF),and slide under and
remove the blade;take it to a sharpening shop.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Hi Jim,
I have been mulling this idea over in my head, but worry that the 6
inches these ramps would give me would not be enough room to work.

One person has suggested lifting the tractor and putting it on large
blocks, although I'm not sure it would be the safest way to go. Going
to watch this thread till this weekend and see what suggestions/ideas
people come up with.

Thanks for your reply.
Brigitte


Hmmmm.....ramps I have ( and which I think are pretty standard set, give 14"
or so of lift when I drive the Ford up onto the, and give me plenty of room
to slide in underneath on a mechanic's creeper.....

......are you sure our ramp's only give a 6" lift...

.....could you be mis estimating th height....it could be a gender
thing....some women mistake 14" for 6 "...... [Grins, ducks, runs like hell
for serious cover....!]


--
Jim McLaughlin

Reply address is deliberately munged.
If you really need to reply directly, try:
jimdotmclaughlinatcomcastdotcom

And you know it is a dotnet not a dotcom
address.

I suggested the lifting and blocks, & even at that I'd remove the deck,
it just is easier to work on. It really depends on the tractor, on my
John Deere with quick release, it is a 5 minute job, if that, with the
tractor flat on the floor, with my Cub Cadet and MTD it is a at least
1/2 hour with the front of the tractor raised. Once removed the deck
can be inspected for worn idlers and other wear that would go unnoticed
till the belts burned off, and something has to be done. The job of
removing the blades is much easier with the deck upside down, those
bolts can be really tight.

Eric in North TX wrote:
I suggested the lifting and blocks, & even at that I'd remove the deck,
it just is easier to work on. It really depends on the tractor, on my
John Deere with quick release, it is a 5 minute job, if that, with the
tractor flat on the floor, with my Cub Cadet and MTD it is a at least
1/2 hour with the front of the tractor raised. Once removed the deck
can be inspected for worn idlers and other wear that would go unnoticed
till the belts burned off, and something has to be done. The job of
removing the blades is much easier with the deck upside down, those
bolts can be really tight.

Hi Eric,
Thanks for the reply. The blades are attached to the deck? If so,
sounds like removing the deck and turning it over to inspect the blades
that way is my best bet.

I pulled the tractor onto the patio slab and raised the deck as far as
I could and took a peek up under there. I see what appears to be a
short blade that is definitely not horizontal. Since I can see only
about 4 inches of the end of the blade, I'd guess it's bent downward,
or the whole blade is sitting at at an angle not parallel to the
ground. I'm sure this cock-eyed blade is my problem.

I know what I'll be doing tomorrow...

Brigitte

Thank you to everyone who replied with their ideas, suggestions and
advise.

Brigitte

ps I know 14 inches when I see it

The Reverend Natural Light wrote:
It should be designed so that the mower deck can be removed and flipped
over. By the time you mess with jacks, stands, ropes, trees, etc, it's
just easier to remove the deck. Safer too.

-rev




Brigitte wrote:
Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte

Just be sure to have a clean surface and a coffee can for all the
parts.
FedWarAddict #392854
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On 16 Aug 2006 11:58:09 -0700, "Brigitte"
wrote:

Hi Group,
I hope this is the right place for this question. If it isn't, please
direct me in the right direction...

I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and it seems the blades are
either needing to be sharpened, or they are too low, or something, cuz
it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the
blade(s) is lower on one side.

I'd like to get under there and check it out, but I can't figure out
how to access the underside. Previously I've owned rear-engine Snapper
riding mower and it was easy to place it on it's "back" and access the
underside. It seems you can't do that with this tractor.

It's a "Lawn General" 17hp with 42" blade. Anyone with any hints on
how I can easily access the underside of this lawn tractor, I'd sure
appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,
Brigitte


Can not figure out why most people are telling you to get under the
tractor or raise the tractor up on jack stands..etc...

Park the tractor on a somewhat level surface...like the driveway...
and eyeball the lower edge of the mower deck and compare how high off
the ground this lower edge is on both sides...they shoud be equal..
wheels on the outside edge of each deck should not be touching the
ground...

To level the deck you should have adjustment points on the deck
supports..which hang from the tractors frame down to the deck...

If you have to get to the blades...MOST tractors have release pins on
the deck... pull these spring loaded pins and the deck should fall to
the ground in the back and rest on the above mentioned wheels on each
side of the dect... Pull the deck back to the rear and the complete
deck will be off the tractor and sitting on the ground... Now pull
the deck out from under the tractor from the side..Or just hop on the
tractor and drive over the deck then walk back to the deck and flip it
over...

My lawn tractor is not big...International Cub Cadet...18 hp..and I
step on the deck getting on and off the mower...Tractor is almost 20
years old..and it has not hurt a thing in all those years...

Sorry But most lawn tractors are made this way...now Riding mowers are
a horse of another color...and I do not know how they are held
together...

Bob G. .

Brigitte wrote:
The Reverend Natural Light wrote:
It should be designed so that the mower deck can be removed and
flipped over. By the time you mess with jacks, stands, ropes,
trees, etc, it's just easier to remove the deck. Safer too.

-rev

Hi rev,
If I removed the deck, would I be able to access the blades easily?
Will I be able to remove the blades if I need to? Or will I need to
raise or lift the tractor to do that?

The blades are *in* the mowing deck so yes, after removing the deck
from the tractor you can easily access the blades without messing with
the tractor. Removing the deck can be a pain though as some of the
designs put the retaining pins where they are a real pain to see.
You'll have to remove the deck drive belt too so be sure you know how
to put it back properly.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Brigitte wrote:
Eric in North TX wrote:
I suggested the lifting and blocks, & even at that I'd remove the
deck, it just is easier to work on. It really depends on the
tractor, on my John Deere with quick release, it is a 5 minute
job, if that, with the tractor flat on the floor, with my Cub
Cadet and MTD it is a at least 1/2 hour with the front of the
tractor raised. Once removed the deck can be inspected for worn
idlers and other wear that would go unnoticed till the belts
burned off, and something has to be done. The job of removing the
blades is much easier with the deck upside down, those bolts can
be really tight.

Hi Eric,
Thanks for the reply. The blades are attached to the deck? If so,
sounds like removing the deck and turning it over to inspect the
blades that way is my best bet.

I pulled the tractor onto the patio slab and raised the deck as far
as I could and took a peek up under there. I see what appears to
be a short blade that is definitely not horizontal. Since I can
see only about 4 inches of the end of the blade, I'd guess it's
bent downward, or the whole blade is sitting at at an angle not
parallel to the ground. I'm sure this cock-eyed blade is my
problem.

If you have a cockeyed blade you have a bum mandrel/bearing...



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Bob G. wrote:
On 16 Aug 2006 11:58:09 -0700, "Brigitte"
wrote:
....
I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and ...it's not cutting in a level path. It seems that one side of the blade(s) is lower ...

....

Can not figure out why most people are telling you to get under the
tractor or raise the tractor up on jack stands..etc...

Park the tractor on a somewhat level surface...like the driveway...
and eyeball the lower edge of the mower deck and compare how high off
the ground this lower edge is on both sides...they shoud be equal..
wheels on the outside edge of each deck should not be touching the
ground...

To level the deck you should have adjustment points on the deck
supports..which hang from the tractors frame down to the deck...

....

Up to this point Bob's got the best so far, by far...if it is cutting
an unlevel path, the deck isn't level. Someone else mentioned the air
pressure in the tires--if one is way low, that can be a part of it, so
fix any of those problems first. Then do the level slab and measure
the lower lip of the deck off the slab on both sides at the cutting
height. It should be within an eighth-inch or so on both sides.
Again, as Bob notes, make sure one or the other float wheel isn't
holding the deck up on one side--they should be just a tad above the
ground on level ground at cutting height. If the deck hangs level but
the cut isn't, _then_ you have something more problematical to take
care of, but if it runs well and isn't making much noise or vibration
on the deck, the likelihood of a bad bearing or other problem like a
bent shaft is pretty minimal. But, of course, once you're gotten the
deck level, the acid test is to measure the tip of each blade above
that same surface. It is possible a blade itself could be bent--this
check will find that, too. At 42", it must be at least two blades--if
it's three, getting to the center one takes getting down there and
reaching under. That's the way mine is but it's not a real hard thing,
just a little awkward.

As for how to adjust it to correct the problem, the general description
is right, but the details vary all over the map--you'll have to look at
the mounting linkage and see where there are some adjustable links. I
don't recognize the name, perhaps someone else will or DAGS and maybe
you can find an online source for a manual if one didn't come with it.
Of course, if the previous owner bought it new, you could try to
contact them and see if they still have it...

As for taking the deck off, I agree it should almost never be required
and is often a pita (to use the technical term), particularly on some
of the "no-name" tractors. An under-the-deck inspection should be
simply a verification that there isn't a whole lot of debris and the
blades are tight in virtually all cases.

To remove the blades, the easiest way imo, is to simply get a small
piece of 1x and place it alongside the blade and between the blade and
deck so that it wedges in place. Then a long-handled socket will make
short work of the blade bolt(s). Clean all mating surfaces before
re-installing. To tighten, you don't even need the block--the sharp
side of the blade is facing away from the direction in which you need
to tighten the bolt, so you can simply hold the back of the blade w/
the other hand while tightening the bolt. They don't need to be
knuckle-whitening tight, just tight.

If you do have need to pull the deck, I definitely recommend against
the idea of trying to drive the tractor over it--most any deck I have
seen is far too high for the wheels to get over the lip anyway, and
it's a good way to break something, one possibility being you.

HTH...

All good advice.
"dpb" wrote in message
ps.com...

Bob G. wrote:
On 16 Aug 2006 11:58:09 -0700, "Brigitte"
wrote:
...
I recently purchased a used lawn tractor and ...it's not cutting in a
level path. It seems that one side of the blade(s) is lower ...

...

Can not figure out why most people are telling you to get under the
tractor or raise the tractor up on jack stands..etc...

Park the tractor on a somewhat level surface...like the driveway...
and eyeball the lower edge of the mower deck and compare how high off
the ground this lower edge is on both sides...they shoud be equal..
wheels on the outside edge of each deck should not be touching the
ground...

To level the deck you should have adjustment points on the deck
supports..which hang from the tractors frame down to the deck...

...

Up to this point Bob's got the best so far, by far...if it is cutting
an unlevel path, the deck isn't level. Someone else mentioned the air
pressure in the tires--if one is way low, that can be a part of it, so
fix any of those problems first. Then do the level slab and measure
the lower lip of the deck off the slab on both sides at the cutting
height. It should be within an eighth-inch or so on both sides.
Again, as Bob notes, make sure one or the other float wheel isn't
holding the deck up on one side--they should be just a tad above the
ground on level ground at cutting height. If the deck hangs level but
the cut isn't, _then_ you have something more problematical to take
care of, but if it runs well and isn't making much noise or vibration
on the deck, the likelihood of a bad bearing or other problem like a
bent shaft is pretty minimal. But, of course, once you're gotten the
deck level, the acid test is to measure the tip of each blade above
that same surface. It is possible a blade itself could be bent--this
check will find that, too. At 42", it must be at least two blades--if
it's three, getting to the center one takes getting down there and
reaching under. That's the way mine is but it's not a real hard thing,
just a little awkward.

As for how to adjust it to correct the problem, the general description
is right, but the details vary all over the map--you'll have to look at
the mounting linkage and see where there are some adjustable links. I
don't recognize the name, perhaps someone else will or DAGS and maybe
you can find an online source for a manual if one didn't come with it.
Of course, if the previous owner bought it new, you could try to
contact them and see if they still have it...

As for taking the deck off, I agree it should almost never be required
and is often a pita (to use the technical term), particularly on some
of the "no-name" tractors. An under-the-deck inspection should be
simply a verification that there isn't a whole lot of debris and the
blades are tight in virtually all cases.

To remove the blades, the easiest way imo, is to simply get a small
piece of 1x and place it alongside the blade and between the blade and
deck so that it wedges in place. Then a long-handled socket will make
short work of the blade bolt(s). Clean all mating surfaces before
re-installing. To tighten, you don't even need the block--the sharp
side of the blade is facing away from the direction in which you need
to tighten the bolt, so you can simply hold the back of the blade w/
the other hand while tightening the bolt. They don't need to be
knuckle-whitening tight, just tight.

If you do have need to pull the deck, I definitely recommend against
the idea of trying to drive the tractor over it--most any deck I have
seen is far too high for the wheels to get over the lip anyway, and
it's a good way to break something, one possibility being you.

HTH...

If you do have need to pull the deck, I definitely recommend against
the idea of trying to drive the tractor over it--most any deck I have
seen is far too high for the wheels to get over the lip anyway, and
it's a good way to break something, one possibility being you.

HTH...

I honestly do not disagree with you on my prefered method of removing
the deck (driving over the darn thing).. Its always worked for me...at
least on my Cub Cadets... (thats the only brand I have personally
owned for the last 40 or so years)... But If I remember correctly my
1at Tractor was a glorified lawn mower and even calling it a Riding
Mower would be pushing it... So your warnings are valid...

Bob G.

Bob G. wrote:

If you do have need to pull the deck, I definitely recommend against
the idea of trying to drive the tractor over it--most any deck I have
seen is far too high for the wheels to get over the lip anyway, and
it's a good way to break something, one possibility being you.

HTH...

I honestly do not disagree with you on my prefered method of removing
the deck (driving over the darn thing).. Its always worked for me...at
least on my Cub Cadets... (thats the only brand I have personally
owned for the last 40 or so years)... But If I remember correctly my
1at Tractor was a glorified lawn mower and even calling it a Riding
Mower would be pushing it... So your warnings are valid...
....

Thanks... One has to be somewhat careful what one recommends in a
usenet group...

I started to make additional comment but decided against it--I'm not
sure of which vintage Cub Cadet you're speaking of--the 40-yr old ones
were still, iirc, basically the Cub shrunk down some before turning
them into the styled lawn tractor although that may go farther back the
40 years, now (geesh, one gets _old_ in a hurry! ). In that case, I
can see it working, but still have trouble with the thought of
subjecting both the tractor and (primarily) the deck to such abuse. My
frame of refereence is owning rider lawn mowers to utility tractors
from the rear engine 9 hp JD SX thru an old (60's vintage) JD 112 to
the roughly 30 hp JD 955 w/ the 6' belly finish mower deck and can't
think any of them it would even be possible with w/o catching on either
the linkage or spindle guard or the undercarriage of the steering or
something similar even w/o considering the weight and the difficulty in
getting the front end to "ride up" over the near vertical edge of the
deck. I suppose one could rig up ramps or somesuch, but it just sounds
like a bad idea in general to me.

I suppose for a particular geometry of tractor and deck it might
work--I'll admit that we never had a Cadet even though I remember
ogling them sitting on the showroom floor when there was still a
Farmall/IH dealership here (and lawn mowing was either the pusher or
the walk-behind Gravely sickle-bar so they were an object of envy, for
sure! ). Although we had Farmalls from the days of the M, the last
IH we had was the 560 LPG; then JD came out w/ the 40 series and we
switched over almost exclusively to Green although we did by a new AC
D17 to continue to use the full line of "snap coupler" implements
Grandad had bought for the WD45 he got when he was getting older and
wanted something smaller to continue to work with. I put a lot of
hours on that combination w/ a 4-row lister and knife sled/cultivator
doing milo!