I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.

Thanks.

JP

I second using this kind of tool.

I have used one of these saws many times cutting through poured concrete and
block. It cuts like going through butter as long as you don't force it.

Wear a dust mask, it going to make alot of dust.

With the right touch it might take 30 minutes to an hour.

Drilled holes and sledge would take all day a hammer and chisel you would
take forever.


"John McGaw" wrote in message
. ..
Jay Pique wrote:
I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.

Thanks.

JP


I have one of the Pit-Bull hammers and it is quite capable but it gets
pretty slow in the heavy going. If I were doing what you describe I'd hit
the slab first with the biggest concrete-cutting device I could find.
First choice would be something like a rental Stihl concrete saw
http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/TS400.html to at least score the slab
deeply if it didn't actually cut all the way through. After scoring,
getting a clean break is dead simple. Rental for an afternoon shouldn't be
ruinously expensive.

--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
http://johnmcgaw.com

I did something like this once using a masonary blade in a circular
saw.

way easier than any other way.

I used an angle grinder with a diamond blade in it. And it was rather
easy. I didn't have a big enough blade to saw through the whole thing,
I scored it maybe only 1/3 of the way through, but the rest (below the
cut) broke off easily and cleanly.

John McGaw wrote in
:

Jay Pique wrote:
I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.

Thanks.

JP


I have one of the Pit-Bull hammers and it is quite capable but it gets
pretty slow in the heavy going. If I were doing what you describe I'd
hit the slab first with the biggest concrete-cutting device I could
find.


First choice would be something like a rental Stihl concrete saw
http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/TS400.html to at least score the
slab deeply if it didn't actually cut all the way through.

Rebar will be a problem.

After
scoring, getting a clean break is dead simple. Rental for an afternoon
shouldn't be ruinously expensive.


Yes,do it the easiest way possible.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On Sat, 20 May 2006 23:23:06 GMT, "Cliff Hartle"
wrote:

I second using this kind of tool.

I have used one of these saws many times cutting through poured concrete and
block. It cuts like going through butter as long as you don't force it.

Wear a dust mask, it going to make alot of dust.

With the right touch it might take 30 minutes to an hour.

Drilled holes and sledge would take all day a hammer and chisel you would
take forever.

And he wouldn't get a clean cut like a saw would do.

I've seen gas powered saws, but I suppose they have electric too.


"John McGaw" wrote in message
...
Jay Pique wrote:
I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.

Thanks.

JP


I have one of the Pit-Bull hammers and it is quite capable but it gets
pretty slow in the heavy going. If I were doing what you describe I'd hit
the slab first with the biggest concrete-cutting device I could find.
First choice would be something like a rental Stihl concrete saw
http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/TS400.html to at least score the slab
deeply if it didn't actually cut all the way through. After scoring,
getting a clean break is dead simple. Rental for an afternoon shouldn't be
ruinously expensive.

--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
http://johnmcgaw.com

On 20 May 2006 16:26:25 -0700, "
wrote:

I did something like this once using a masonary blade in a circular
saw.

You might get by a few times, but this will surely kill a circular saw
after just so much.

I had a ancient B&D 7" saw and I scored a few pavers and I could
tell a difference when the dust got into the motor. I did use it a few
more times to cut through stucco, chicken wire and foam. I gave it to
a friend and it's on the last leg.


Oren
"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland
and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore
excused from saving Universes."

Oren wrote:

On 20 May 2006 16:26:25 -0700, "
wrote:

I did something like this once using a masonary blade in a circular
saw.

You might get by a few times, but this will surely kill a circular saw
after just so much.

I had a ancient B&D 7" saw and I scored a few pavers and I could
tell a difference when the dust got into the motor. I did use it a few
more times to cut through stucco, chicken wire and foam. I gave it to
a friend and it's on the last leg.

My B&D is 36 yrs old. It was semi-retired about 20 yrs ago & I put
a diamond blade in it about 6 yrs ago. I probably use it once or
twice a year to cut a block, rock, or brick, or put a groove in some
concrete. After a couple hundred feet of scoring concrete I finally
replaced the first diamond blade. It makes a horrendous noise when
it starts and stops--- but it *does* still start and run. [oh yeah--
it was also my go-to saw when I used a plywood blade to cut up a 275
gallon oil barrel, and the old water heater.]

When it does finally croak, if I don't go first, I might have it
bronzed.

Jim

Jim Yanik wrote:
Yes,do it the easiest way possible.

Yes, you're right. I'm definitely going to cut it, and I'm fairly
confused with my mind for not having thought that from the beginning.
I've been reading about using concrete anchors set in epoxy and I think
I've had hammer drills on the mind or something. Plus, I don't have a
target saw so when your only tool's a hammer everything looks like a
nail!

JP

I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.

You SHOULD use a concrete saw. If you're going to use
a hammer and or drill, take 2 feet off, and then cast
a new edge.

Jim Yanik wrote:

John McGaw wrote in
:

Jay Pique wrote:
I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.

Thanks.

JP


I have one of the Pit-Bull hammers and it is quite capable but it gets
pretty slow in the heavy going. If I were doing what you describe I'd
hit the slab first with the biggest concrete-cutting device I could
find.


First choice would be something like a rental Stihl concrete saw
http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/TS400.html to at least score the
slab deeply if it didn't actually cut all the way through.

Rebar will be a problem.

For a diamond blade?

After
scoring, getting a clean break is dead simple. Rental for an afternoon
shouldn't be ruinously expensive.


Yes,do it the easiest way possible.


--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

Jim Yanik wrote:

John McGaw wrote in
:

Jay Pique wrote:
I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.

Thanks.

JP


I have one of the Pit-Bull hammers and it is quite capable but it gets
pretty slow in the heavy going. If I were doing what you describe I'd
hit the slab first with the biggest concrete-cutting device I could
find.


First choice would be something like a rental Stihl concrete saw
http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/TS400.html to at least score the
slab deeply if it didn't actually cut all the way through.

Rebar will be a problem.

For a diamond blade?

then you -have- to cut all the way through.
You can't just score and break if there's uncut rebar.


After
scoring, getting a clean break is dead simple. Rental for an afternoon
shouldn't be ruinously expensive.


Yes,do it the easiest way possible.





--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:

"J. Clarke" wrote in
:

Jim Yanik wrote:

John McGaw wrote in
:

Jay Pique wrote:
I've got to take 12" inches off of a 10' run of concrete slab that's
about 4" thick. I was thinking about using a small rotary hammer to
either drill a bunch of holes and crack it off with a sledge, or use
the hammer only mode with a chisel. Am I going to be asking too much
of the tool? It's a Makita 1" D-Handle Rotary Hammer "Put Bull" model
HR2455 that draws 7amps.

Thanks.

JP


I have one of the Pit-Bull hammers and it is quite capable but it gets
pretty slow in the heavy going. If I were doing what you describe I'd
hit the slab first with the biggest concrete-cutting device I could
find.


First choice would be something like a rental Stihl concrete saw
http://www.stihlusa.com/construction/TS400.html to at least score the
slab deeply if it didn't actually cut all the way through.

Rebar will be a problem.

For a diamond blade?

then you -have- to cut all the way through.
You can't just score and break if there's uncut rebar.

So, which would you rather do, cut 2/3 of the way through then break up the
remainder with a sledge or hammer and chisel, or go all the way through
with hammer and chisel?

How would _you_ deal with this particular problem?


After
scoring, getting a clean break is dead simple. Rental for an afternoon
shouldn't be ruinously expensive.


Yes,do it the easiest way possible.






--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)