Looking for a more secure way to tighten the dryer hose to the dryer.

The bottom part of the dryer hose comes out from time to time. I rely on
the friction between the dryer receptor and the hose's plastic sheathing to
hold it in place. I thought of putting in a clamp, but the hose goes in too
far into the dryer. Thus, it would be too difficult or impossible for me to
tighten.

I thought of drilling a small hole in the plastic sheathing and dryer
receptor. Then putting a pointed screw in at an angle. I can't put it
straight in as the receptor is somewhat inset into the dryer.

Any ideas on how to secure this better?

Please note, this plastic sheathing is not very flexible. I even have
trouble from time to time with the other end of the hose coming out. It has
a clamp. I tightened it pretty good today. Hopefully, it will hold.

"Charlie S." wrote in message
news:v1ZQf.15209$wH5.3897@trnddc02...
Looking for a more secure way to tighten the dryer hose to the dryer.

The bottom part of the dryer hose comes out from time to time. I rely on
the friction between the dryer receptor and the hose's plastic sheathing
to hold it in place. I thought of putting in a clamp, but the hose goes
in too far into the dryer. Thus, it would be too difficult or impossible
for me to tighten.

I thought of drilling a small hole in the plastic sheathing and dryer
receptor. Then putting a pointed screw in at an angle. I can't put it
straight in as the receptor is somewhat inset into the dryer.

Any ideas on how to secure this better?

Please note, this plastic sheathing is not very flexible. I even have
trouble from time to time with the other end of the hose coming out. It
has a clamp. I tightened it pretty good today. Hopefully, it will hold.

If you come up with a product that will cure this, please let me know. I
will back you financially 100%. I have never seen anything that works worth
a darn. Big hose clamps. Pull ties. Big snap rings.

And then, you have to pull the washer out to get back there to the dryer,
climb in, get on your knees, work in a confined space, leave enough on there
so you can pull out the dryer to work but not so much so when you push the
dryer back that it crimps the hose.

SHEESH! Hasn't any of those engineers considered a top exhaust? Living
with that and the looks of it is a heck of a lot easier than putting on the
hose and keeping it on. I'd definitely buy one. TODAY!

Steve

Perhaps epoxy glue - either metal to plastic or glue a metal extension
onto the drier and then clamp the hose onto the extension.

Charlie S. wrote:
Looking for a more secure way to tighten the dryer hose to the dryer.

The bottom part of the dryer hose comes out from time to time. I rely on
the friction between the dryer receptor and the hose's plastic sheathing to
hold it in place. I thought of putting in a clamp, but the hose goes in too
far into the dryer. Thus, it would be too difficult or impossible for me to
tighten.

I thought of drilling a small hole in the plastic sheathing and dryer
receptor. Then putting a pointed screw in at an angle. I can't put it
straight in as the receptor is somewhat inset into the dryer.

Any ideas on how to secure this better?

Please note, this plastic sheathing is not very flexible. I even have
trouble from time to time with the other end of the hose coming out. It has
a clamp. I tightened it pretty good today. Hopefully, it will hold.

"Charlie S." wrote in message
news:v1ZQf.15209$wH5.3897@trnddc02...
Looking for a more secure way to tighten the dryer hose to the dryer.

The bottom part of the dryer hose comes out from time to time. I rely on
the friction between the dryer receptor and the hose's plastic sheathing
to hold it in place.

snip

Any ideas on how to secure this better?

I have a very low-tech solution that works well for me, but it's far from
elegant. I duct tape over the connection. ( The hose clamps don't work
worth a damn for me, either. )

I can't figure out what no one has come up with a better attachment, either.

Donna

The PLASTIC hose is a severe fire hazard, just take a little piece and
try sertting it on fire, you much better off with the flexible metal
type

"Charlie S." wrote in message

I thought of drilling a small hole in the plastic sheathing and dryer
receptor. Then putting a pointed screw in at an angle. I can't put it
straight in as the receptor is somewhat inset into the dryer.

Any ideas on how to secure this better?

Screws in a dryer vent can catch lint and build up a big gob over time.

Clamps and/or duct tape is your best bet. Yes, all dryer connection pretty
much are a PITA.

wrote in message
oups.com...
The PLASTIC hose is a severe fire hazard, just take a little piece and
try sertting it on fire, you much better off with the flexible metal
type
Sorry, I don't know the terminology. The hose itself is a flexible aluminum
(I think). The connecting unit is a hard plastic.

Charlie S. writes:

Any ideas on how to secure this better?

Vinyl duct hose is a fire hazard and does not meet code in many
jurisdictions. Use aluminum.

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
Charlie S. writes:

Any ideas on how to secure this better?

Vinyl duct hose is a fire hazard and does not meet code in many
jurisdictions. Use aluminum.

The hose is aluminum.

glad to hear its not plastic hose. I have a friend with that and her
hubby is a volunteer fireman, thought he would know better.....

that whte plastic duct hose with metal ring in it was awesome, except
it burns so easy. not a good combo around a dryer

Clamps and/or duct tape is your best bet. Yes, all dryer connection
pretty
much are a PITA.

But you (he) should not use the cheap fabric duct tape but the stuff made
from Al foil. It doesn't "dry out." It's so thin that if you make a
mistake you just cut the joint and put another layer on.

The fabric "Duct Tape" is worse than useless. It sticks well enough to
leave a mess but not well enough to do the job.

In our place, I replaced the flexible Al duct with sections of standard
metal duct made from plated steel (which I held together at most connections
with the Al duct tape.) I kept one (and only one) connection "loose" so
that I could move the dryer if I had to get behind it or the washing
machine. The only problem with the metal stuff is cutting it to length: you
need some good quality "tin snips" but MAYBE a fine tooth blade in a "jig
saw" might work.

John Lawrence wrote:
I have put an aluminum 90 degree elbow on the end of the vent hose where it
goes into the dryer. Just push the other end of the elbow into the dryer. No
need to use a clamp. When you push the dryer back in place, the elbow stays
there. They only way it can come out is to move the dryer out again. The
elbow is from any hardware store and is made for a solid pipe system.
"Charlie S." wrote in message
news:v1ZQf.15209$wH5.3897@trnddc02...
Looking for a more secure way to tighten the dryer hose to the dryer.

The bottom part of the dryer hose comes out from time to time. I rely on
the friction between the dryer receptor and the hose's plastic sheathing
to hold it in place. I thought of putting in a clamp, but the hose goes
in too far into the dryer. Thus, it would be too difficult or impossible
for me to tighten.

I thought of drilling a small hole in the plastic sheathing and dryer
receptor. Then putting a pointed screw in at an angle. I can't put it
straight in as the receptor is somewhat inset into the dryer.

Any ideas on how to secure this better?

Please note, this plastic sheathing is not very flexible. I even have
trouble from time to time with the other end of the hose coming out. It
has a clamp. I tightened it pretty good today. Hopefully, it will hold.





A variation on this method........I use aluminum duct tape to tape a 90
onto the dryer outlet. There is "supposed" to be enough clearance
between te dryer & the wall to make room for the vent hose.

I hose clamp the alluminum flex hose to the 90 on the dryer and the
vent in the wall or floor.

To get over the "how do I have room to work & how keep the hose out of
the way".


I crreate "sevice loop" with the aluminum hose that goes straight up
off the dryer 90 & then a gentle 180 back onto the wall or floor
outlet.

This arrangement adds about 4 or 5 feet of hose & the joints (not
great) but it sure beats the "crushed hose" & allows the dryer to be
moved easily for cleaning the vent & laundry room.

cheers
Bob

"John Gilmer" wrote in message
...



Clamps and/or duct tape is your best bet. Yes, all dryer connection
pretty
much are a PITA.

But you (he) should not use the cheap fabric duct tape but the stuff made
from Al foil. It doesn't "dry out." It's so thin that if you make a
mistake you just cut the joint and put another layer on.

The fabric "Duct Tape" is worse than useless. It sticks well enough to
leave a mess but not well enough to do the job.

In our place, I replaced the flexible Al duct with sections of standard
metal duct made from plated steel (which I held together at most
connections
with the Al duct tape.) I kept one (and only one) connection "loose" so
that I could move the dryer if I had to get behind it or the washing
machine. The only problem with the metal stuff is cutting it to length:
you
need some good quality "tin snips" but MAYBE a fine tooth blade in a "jig
saw" might work.

Never knew about this type of tape. Thanks.

I may have inadvertantly solved the problem tonight. I am not sure. I took
the hose off and pushed it in again. Seems this time the unit went in a bit
further asI felt it click into place. Don't know if that happened before or
not. Have the feeling it's in there pretty securely. Time will tell.

Thanks everyone for your help. Hopefully the other end won't come out
either.

Never knew about this type of tape. Thanks.

The "standard" size (2"?) is stocked by HD. It's always found in the
insulation section where it is used to cover joints in that fancy aluminized
mylar bubble insulation. Sometimes it finds itself among the duct
sections.

The "pros" use wider versions of the same stuff and I have seen it used is
new(er) HVAC installations. It's definitely "gud enuf" for dryers and HVAC
stuff. For stove/water heater flue I suspect it would fail but that's
where your are SUPPOSED to use the sheet metal screws.

Once you have a roll of the stuff you quickly find other uses for it.
After all, it is DUCT TAPE!