I have two wall sconces in two rooms. Same sconce. Use a halogen bulb
120V 150W type T.

Room 1 I always have the sconce on. Room 2 the occupant likes to keep
it dimmed half way. That room always need replacement bulbs sooner.
In fact, I replaced them at the same time, and I have since replaced
room 2's bulb twice without having to replace room 1's. Funny thing
is, room 1 have the light turned on much longer period of time, it
should burn out much sooner and it's not. The only difference is -
room 2's light is always dimmed.

Is this possible?

MC

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have two wall sconces in two rooms. Same sconce. Use a halogen bulb
120V 150W type T.

Room 1 I always have the sconce on. Room 2 the occupant likes to keep
it dimmed half way. That room always need replacement bulbs sooner.
In fact, I replaced them at the same time, and I have since replaced
room 2's bulb twice without having to replace room 1's. Funny thing
is, room 1 have the light turned on much longer period of time, it
should burn out much sooner and it's not. The only difference is -
room 2's light is always dimmed.

Is this possible?

MC


Absolutely, the design of a halogen lamp is based on it burning hot
enough to return material to the filament.

Yet another good reason to replace with fluorescent- of appropriate
output. Halogens are so "sixties." :')

J

MiamiCuse wrote:
I have two wall sconces in two rooms. Same sconce. Use a halogen bulb
120V 150W type T.

Room 1 I always have the sconce on. Room 2 the occupant likes to keep
it dimmed half way. That room always need replacement bulbs sooner.
In fact, I replaced them at the same time, and I have since replaced
room 2's bulb twice without having to replace room 1's. Funny thing
is, room 1 have the light turned on much longer period of time, it
should burn out much sooner and it's not. The only difference is -
room 2's light is always dimmed.

Is this possible?

MC

Sure, that is the way halogens work. Buy a low wattage halogen for room
two and get rid of the dimmer. It will also cost less to run with the same
amount of light.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Likely the bulbs you were replacing on the dimmed fixture were noticably
blackened. The envelope must be kept very hot to keep tungsten vapor from
depositing on it. Which is why the bulbs are very small so they are close
to the filament and get hot. A regular glass bulb must be a minimal size
for a given wattage to keep from melting. Since a halogen bulb must stay
very hot to work properly it's small and is made of blown quartz instead of
glass, hence one of the old names was quartz-iodide.

wrote:

Yet another good reason to replace with fluorescent- of appropriate
output. Halogens are so "sixties." :')

J

I think halogens generally produce "whiter" light, though. My wife
has a brown sweater that looks green under fluorescents.

Each has its place. I use fluorescent and compact-fluorescent for
general lighting, regular incandescent most places where dimming is
important (e.g. bedrooms), and halogen (also on dimmers) for work-area
lighting. There are also some flashlights and a "Tensor" lamp in the
mix, and even a smattering of neon. :-)

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Joseph Meehan wrote:

MiamiCuse wrote:

I have two wall sconces in two rooms. Same sconce. Use a halogen bulb
120V 150W type T.

Room 1 I always have the sconce on. Room 2 the occupant likes to keep
it dimmed half way. That room always need replacement bulbs sooner.
In fact, I replaced them at the same time, and I have since replaced
room 2's bulb twice without having to replace room 1's. Funny thing
is, room 1 have the light turned on much longer period of time, it
should burn out much sooner and it's not. The only difference is -
room 2's light is always dimmed.

Is this possible?

MC


Sure, that is the way halogens work. Buy a low wattage halogen for room
two and get rid of the dimmer. It will also cost less to run with the same
amount of light.


.... or just continue to use the dimmer and get on with life. Sure,
they'll fail more quickly, but they're still a good product. And I
suspect that, as long as you use them at least _sometimes_ at full
brightness, they'll be able to work their magic.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

In article , CJT wrote:
wrote:

Yet another good reason to replace with fluorescent- of appropriate
output. Halogens are so "sixties." :')

J

I think halogens generally produce "whiter" light, though. My wife
has a brown sweater that looks green under fluorescents.

The "old tech" Cool White fluorescents caused complains with teir color
rendering index of only 62.

"Old tech" Warm White had a color that looked like it should be OK, but
its color rendering index was/is only 53. One bad color distortion that
one does is making skin tones more greenish-yellowish-pale than they
appear under incandescent, halogen or sunlight.

After that came "broad spectrum" fluorescents. They had color rendering
index as high as close to 90, but at the expense of about 30-33% less
light. Although their color distortions were much less, they were in the
same direction - making skin tones less pinkish and making most reds and
greens darker and duller, and blues violetish.

Now, we have compact fluorescents as well as triphosphor
linear fluorescents in two grades.

Compact fluorescents (excepting mainly most dollar store models, "full
spectrum" ones from pet/aquarium shops and the rare, largely obsolete
FUL tyes) and the upper grade of linear triphosphor fluorescents have
color rendering index 82 (sometimes a bit more for larger linear ones),
and their color distortions are in a more pleasing direction - skin tones
are slightly excessively pinkish, and greens and reds are more vivid and
brighter than "proper".
These are not perfect - bright pure reds come up slightly orangish, and
some blues under the warmer color ones of these lamps still come up
slightly violetish. But an earth tone sweater will probably not be made
greenish!

The "upper" grade linear triphosphor fluorescents have color code SPXxx
if by GE, D8xx if by Sylvania, and 8xx if by anyone else. xx is the
2-digit abbreviated color temperatu

27 - incandescent-like or close (most compact fluorescents)
30 - "warm white color" - slightly whiter or pinkish-whiter than incandescent
35 - "whitish warm white" - I find that one really pleasant!
41 - "cool white"
50 - an icy cold pure white that sometimes looks slightly bluish

In most home use, 35 or less is recommended. 41 or higher can cause a
"dreary gray" effect unless lighting level is "office-bright" or
"classroom bright" (near or over 100 footandles / 1100 lux).

Keep in mind that in home centers, the T8 (1 inch diameter) triphosphors
will be the lower grade - 7 instead of 8, or SP instead of SPX if by GE.
The lower grade, although better than "old tech" (halophosphate phosphor),
has a color rendering index in the upper 70's rather than low-mid 80's,
and is not quite as good as "upper grade" in pleasantness of any color
distortions.

- Don Klipstein )

Don Klipstein wrote:

In article , CJT wrote:

wrote:


Yet another good reason to replace with fluorescent- of appropriate
output. Halogens are so "sixties." :')

J


I think halogens generally produce "whiter" light, though. My wife
has a brown sweater that looks green under fluorescents.


The "old tech" Cool White fluorescents caused complains with teir color
rendering index of only 62.

"Old tech" Warm White had a color that looked like it should be OK, but
its color rendering index was/is only 53. One bad color distortion that
one does is making skin tones more greenish-yellowish-pale than they
appear under incandescent, halogen or sunlight.

After that came "broad spectrum" fluorescents. They had color rendering
index as high as close to 90, but at the expense of about 30-33% less
light. Although their color distortions were much less, they were in the
same direction - making skin tones less pinkish and making most reds and
greens darker and duller, and blues violetish.

Now, we have compact fluorescents as well as triphosphor
linear fluorescents in two grades.

Compact fluorescents (excepting mainly most dollar store models, "full
spectrum" ones from pet/aquarium shops and the rare, largely obsolete
FUL tyes) and the upper grade of linear triphosphor fluorescents have
color rendering index 82 (sometimes a bit more for larger linear ones),
and their color distortions are in a more pleasing direction - skin tones
are slightly excessively pinkish, and greens and reds are more vivid and
brighter than "proper".
These are not perfect - bright pure reds come up slightly orangish, and
some blues under the warmer color ones of these lamps still come up
slightly violetish. But an earth tone sweater will probably not be made
greenish!

The "upper" grade linear triphosphor fluorescents have color code SPXxx
if by GE, D8xx if by Sylvania, and 8xx if by anyone else. xx is the
2-digit abbreviated color temperatu

27 - incandescent-like or close (most compact fluorescents)
30 - "warm white color" - slightly whiter or pinkish-whiter than incandescent
35 - "whitish warm white" - I find that one really pleasant!
41 - "cool white"
50 - an icy cold pure white that sometimes looks slightly bluish

In most home use, 35 or less is recommended. 41 or higher can cause a
"dreary gray" effect unless lighting level is "office-bright" or
"classroom bright" (near or over 100 footandles / 1100 lux).

Keep in mind that in home centers, the T8 (1 inch diameter) triphosphors
will be the lower grade - 7 instead of 8, or SP instead of SPX if by GE.
The lower grade, although better than "old tech" (halophosphate phosphor),
has a color rendering index in the upper 70's rather than low-mid 80's,
and is not quite as good as "upper grade" in pleasantness of any color
distortions.

- Don Klipstein )

The offending fluorescents in my case were CFs purchased only a few
months ago. In the future I'll watch for the indicators you suggest,
but I suspect these are premium bulbs you're talking about.

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"Don Klipstein" wrote in message

Now, we have compact fluorescents as well as triphosphor
linear fluorescents in two grades.
The "upper" grade linear triphosphor fluorescents have color code SPXxx
if by GE, D8xx if by Sylvania, and 8xx if by anyone else. xx is the
2-digit abbreviated color temperatu

27 - incandescent-like or close (most compact fluorescents)
30 - "warm white color" - slightly whiter or pinkish-whiter than
incandescent
35 - "whitish warm white" - I find that one really pleasant!
41 - "cool white"
50 - an icy cold pure white that sometimes looks slightly bluish

Don,
Thanks for some good information.

Put the light characteristics aside for a moment. I'd buy what I want for
living areas regardless of cost as comfort is what I'm after.

OTOH, there are some areas that just need some light (stairwell, shed, etc.)
and color temperature is not important. What is the difference between two
lights on the shelf at the hardware store, one is 99¢, the other is $8.99?
Both have the same information as to lumens and life span.

Thanks,
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

In article , CJT wrote:

Don Klipstein wrote:

The offending fluorescents in my case were CFs purchased only a few
months ago. In the future I'll watch for the indicators you suggest,
but I suspect these are premium bulbs you're talking about.

CFs now and for the past at least couple years usually are "The Good
Stuff" if they were not dollar store items. They have some tendency to
make greenish things more so, although my experience is that most brownish
things are rendered a bit more orangish by these lamps as opposed to
greenish.

Then again, I like to buy my sweaters in places where they look good
under warm/warmish color triphosphor fluorescent light.
Then-then-again, such a sweater and my face could look a bit greenish
at the office party if the lighting there is old-tech "halophosphor"
fluorescent. If you need to wear clothes that have just the right color
in specific lighting situations, then try the clothes out under such
lights, and buy such clothes from places where the return policy is good
enough to allow refund if the clothes looked ugly under your workplace
lighting.

- Don Klipstein )

Don Klipstein wrote:

In article , CJT wrote:


Don Klipstein wrote:

The offending fluorescents in my case were CFs purchased only a few
months ago. In the future I'll watch for the indicators you suggest,
but I suspect these are premium bulbs you're talking about.


CFs now and for the past at least couple years usually are "The Good
Stuff" if they were not dollar store items. They have some tendency to
make greenish things more so, although my experience is that most brownish
things are rendered a bit more orangish by these lamps as opposed to
greenish.

Then again, I like to buy my sweaters in places where they look good
under warm/warmish color triphosphor fluorescent light.
Then-then-again, such a sweater and my face could look a bit greenish
at the office party if the lighting there is old-tech "halophosphor"
fluorescent. If you need to wear clothes that have just the right color
in specific lighting situations, then try the clothes out under such
lights, and buy such clothes from places where the return policy is good
enough to allow refund if the clothes looked ugly under your workplace
lighting.

- Don Klipstein )

Given that my wife hand-knitted the sweater in question, returning it
was not an option. :-)

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The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
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In , Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"Don Klipstein" wrote

SNIP

Put the light characteristics aside for a moment. I'd buy what I want for
living areas regardless of cost as comfort is what I'm after.

OTOH, there are some areas that just need some light (stairwell, shed, etc.)
and color temperature is not important. What is the difference between two
lights on the shelf at the hardware store, one is 99¢, the other is $8.99?
Both have the same information as to lumens and life span.

Could you tell me what brands/models in the same store have same life
and lumens when one costs 99 cents and the other costs $8.99?
Also, any additional specifications supplied by either - such as watts
consumed, life expectancy, color temperature, color code on the bulb, and
(less likely) a specification of color rendering index?

(I find CRI in the 82-86 range usually better than even 88-91, since
most fluorescent lamps with CRI 82-86 have full light output and most with
higher CRI have 30-33% less light output. Also, the color distortions of
triphosphor fluorescent lamps with CRI 82-86, including most compacts, are
mostly in a favorable way while the color distortions of most other
fluorescent lamps are in an unfavorable direction - even if the CRI is
above 86, as well as if in the low 70's or less.)

- Don Klipstein )

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
ups.com...
I have two wall sconces in two rooms. Same
sconce. Use a halogen bulb
120V 150W type T.

Room 1 I always have the sconce on. Room 2 the
occupant likes to keep
it dimmed half way. That room always need
replacement bulbs sooner.
In fact, I replaced them at the same time, and I
have since replaced
room 2's bulb twice without having to replace
room 1's. Funny thing
is, room 1 have the light turned on much longer
period of time, it
should burn out much sooner and it's not. The
only difference is -
room 2's light is always dimmed.

Is this possible?

MC


It's possible that you touched the bulb when you
replaced it, causing it to burn out prematurely so
you had to replace it again. Did you touch it this
time?

It's possible that you touched the bulb when you
replaced it, causing it to burn out prematurely so
you had to replace it again. Did you touch it this
time?

Wouldn't a fingerprint-induced failure take the form of the quartz envelope
breaking or shattering as opposed to the bulb simply burning out?