Hi All,

I've got a 100+ year-old house which has the typical 100+ year-old
windows. They are covered in lead pain, hard to open, and drafty.
They are also big, filled with original glass (wavy and in some sashes,
leaded), and beautiul.

The lead is the real issue here, since one of our kids, who is 4 1/2,
tested high last year. Most of the rest of the lead in the house has
been covered, but the windows remain... and due to this, we mostly keep
them closed.

My wife really wants to get the windows replaced with Marvin "Ultimate
Inserts" from an installer she knows. He wants about $800 per window
for labor and materials. We can't afford to do the whole house, so
this would be a two here, two there process.

The question to you experts is this: for the value of the home, am I
better off getting the windows restored, and maybe getting some
higher-quality storms put on, than replacing them completly? The
windows themselves are in decent shape, though they stick and tiny
fragments of wood and dust come down when you open/close them, etc.
Anyone have an idea what a quality stripping and restoration should
cost?

Note the lead issue will diminish in 18 months or so, when the kid
turns 6 (when the physiological impact of the lead is reduced), after
which the wife's major motivational point will be gone.

Thanks for your time.

That might be a sticking point if it's ever necessary to put the
house on the market again.

Better get someone in to look at the situation unless you're
really sure you can do it. Houses that old are often
plank-built, not studs & coverings as most people are used to.
It could be quite a job to accomplish.

I think you're right to consider it, but also check your local
codes. Make sure there are no surprises there such as historical
requirements or worse, if you touch this, then you must also do
that kind of thing.

Luck!

Pop


wrote in message
ups.com...
: Hi All,
:
: I've got a 100+ year-old house which has the typical 100+
year-old
: windows. They are covered in lead pain, hard to open, and
drafty.
: They are also big, filled with original glass (wavy and in some
sashes,
: leaded), and beautiul.
:
: The lead is the real issue here, since one of our kids, who is
4 1/2,
: tested high last year. Most of the rest of the lead in the
house has
: been covered, but the windows remain... and due to this, we
mostly keep
: them closed.
:
: My wife really wants to get the windows replaced with Marvin
"Ultimate
: Inserts" from an installer she knows. He wants about $800 per
window
: for labor and materials. We can't afford to do the whole
house, so
: this would be a two here, two there process.
:
: The question to you experts is this: for the value of the home,
am I
: better off getting the windows restored, and maybe getting some
: higher-quality storms put on, than replacing them completly?
The
: windows themselves are in decent shape, though they stick and
tiny
: fragments of wood and dust come down when you open/close them,
etc.
: Anyone have an idea what a quality stripping and restoration
should
: cost?
:
: Note the lead issue will diminish in 18 months or so, when the
kid
: turns 6 (when the physiological impact of the lead is reduced),
after
: which the wife's major motivational point will be gone.
:
: Thanks for your time.
:

It IS possible to save your windows AND have a safe and comfortable
place to live.

Note the lead issue will diminish in 18 months or so, when the kid
turns 6 (when the physiological impact of the lead is reduced), after
which the wife's major motivational point will be gone.

It is possible to do to "Lead-Safe" housekeeping to control the
lead-health issue. See the following document at my Historic HomeWorks
website:

http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw...adsafetybk.pdf

To learn more about working on your windows go to:

http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw...ts/reports.htm

and see the publication Save Your Wood Windows, then click on "View
Sample Pages," where you will see a page that summarizes lead-safe work
on windows.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi All,

I've got a 100+ year-old house which has the typical 100+ year-old
windows. They are covered in lead pain, hard to open, and drafty.
They are also big, filled with original glass (wavy and in some sashes,
leaded), and beautiul.

The lead is the real issue here, since one of our kids, who is 4 1/2,
tested high last year. Most of the rest of the lead in the house has
been covered, but the windows remain... and due to this, we mostly keep
them closed.

Closing the windows in not helping the lead problem. It may make no
difference at all, but OTOH, opening the windows will disperse any lead in
the air making it safer. Is your kid eating the windows? Simple contact is
not a big deal.

Is there historical value to the existing windows? If so, it may well pay
you to strip them and refurbish them. There are methods of removing lead
paint safely. With windows, you can take the sashes outside. You say they
are beautiful and in that case, I'd want to restore them if at all possible.

Closing the windows in not helping the lead problem. It may make no
difference at all, but OTOH, opening the windows will disperse any lead in
the air making it safer. Is your kid eating the windows? Simple contact is
not a big deal.

Actually, the primary danger from lead paint in windows (assuming the
paint isn't flaking/peeling, which ours aren't) is in opening/closing
them. Each cycle produces lead dust (due to surface rubbing) which
then gets distributed inside the house. Keeping the windows closed
eliminates the biggest threat from them.

If a kid is actually chewing on them, that is another story....

Add energy savings into the equation when you consider whether $800 is
too much; also get some other quotes from other installers for other
brands.

wrote:
Hi All,

I've got a 100+ year-old house which has the typical 100+ year-old
windows. They are covered in lead pain, hard to open, and drafty.
They are also big, filled with original glass (wavy and in some sashes,
leaded), and beautiul.

The lead is the real issue here, since one of our kids, who is 4 1/2,
tested high last year. Most of the rest of the lead in the house has
been covered, but the windows remain... and due to this, we mostly keep
them closed.

My wife really wants to get the windows replaced with Marvin "Ultimate
Inserts" from an installer she knows. He wants about $800 per window
for labor and materials. We can't afford to do the whole house, so
this would be a two here, two there process.

The question to you experts is this: for the value of the home, am I
better off getting the windows restored, and maybe getting some
higher-quality storms put on, than replacing them completly? The
windows themselves are in decent shape, though they stick and tiny
fragments of wood and dust come down when you open/close them, etc.
Anyone have an idea what a quality stripping and restoration should
cost?

Note the lead issue will diminish in 18 months or so, when the kid
turns 6 (when the physiological impact of the lead is reduced), after
which the wife's major motivational point will be gone.

Thanks for your time.

New Low E argon glass and sashes are much more efficient winter and
summer than storm windows, Tri pane is best. The Low E and Argon
definaly work, a dual pane is apx R3.3 tri pane apx R5. You may only
have R 1-2 now and thats about it for storms added as they dont truely
air seal, You will save alot in utilities with Low E Argon. Tri pane if
you can afford it may offer 20% savings if you are near R 1 and save in
summer as well with AC mode. I put in dual and Tri pane they are worth
the upgrade.

20% savings seems a bit hopeful. At $800/window it's gonna take a long
time to realize those energy savings. I don't know how many windows the
OP has but I'm sure to do them all would cost $10k atleast, even if you
save $2-300 per year, that's 30-50 years to just recover your initial
outlay.

I'm in a similar situation and I am not replacing the windows. I do
have storm windows and they do help.

I'm going through, window by window taking the sashes out, removing all
the old paint from the window frame inside and out and the sashes.
Removing the old glazing and the glass (very carefully), priming
everything (with oil based primer), re glazing and painting (with
Latex) and adding weatherstipping. Replacing ropes with chains,
cleaning the pulleys etc etc. It's not quick and it's not easy, but
it's not rocket science either. To see the bare wood of the sashes and
the wooden pins in the joints and realize how long they've been around
is just amazing. The windows fit the house and if that is important
keep them. The windows I've done don't rattle, glide nicely and look
great.

The savings are provided by independant and Gov sites, it is all year
around, research it. I cut my utilities by apx 60-70% overall by redoing
everything, 20% is possible with a leaking single pane glass, air
infiltration and summer cooling is an often overlooked issue that must
be figured in.

Took you up on your challenge and I did research it further, here's
what I came up with

http://www.nfrc.org/press/morewindowfacts.aspx
"Household energy costs in most U.S. homes could be reduced by up to 15
percent by installing more energy-efficient windows."
that's UP TO
Here's something specific:
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?...pr_savemoney#1
"Estimated savings for a typical home from replacing single pane with
ENERGY STAR qualified windows are significant in all regions of the
country, ranging from $125 to $340 a year."

So I'm paying about $2500/year for gas heat in the winter and Electric
A/C in the summer. So if I replace 27 windows in my house at an
approximate cost of $800 each or total of about $20, 000 it'll take 66
years before I break even, if I save $300/year. OK so there are many
other factors that come into play here, but the gist of it is that from
a financial perspective you'll realize a small drop in utilities but it
will take a long time to actually see a Return on Investment from
replacing all your window.
I'd still advocate stripping each window and renovating them, you'll
remove the lead, add weatherstipping and improving their quality so
they last another 100+ years.

"Ian" wrote in message
"Estimated savings for a typical home from replacing single pane with
ENERGY STAR qualified windows are significant in all regions of the
country, ranging from $125 to $340 a year."

So I'm paying about $2500/year for gas heat in the winter and Electric
A/C in the summer. So if I replace 27 windows in my house at an
approximate cost of $800 each or total of about $20, 000 it'll take 66
years before I break even,

They are using averages. I'd say the average house has much less than 27
windows. You may, in reality, get payback in only 45 years.