Yes, i posted this before (and got no replies). I am looking for a how-to
on this.


Need advice on replacing cedar lap siding boards --

I have two lap siding boards on first level that have warped due to water --
one from water bouncing off of shrubbery, one from water bouncing off of the
trash can. The thin edges of the beveled boards have warped out form under
the next higher board. (Possibly they were not set right originally.)

The one from the shrubbery water bounce is the main problem.
I gave a hard look at that lap board yesterday and it goes behind the
structural parts of the front porch. Taking all of that down (or partially
out from the house) to replace that board appears to be the worst option
available.

One option I had considered was wetting, attempting to "unwarp" the board
by laying it flat on the driveway and leaving weight on that thin edge for a
while, and resetting it. I already know the boards that have been in the
baking sun since 1984 are brittle from trying to reset one on the house next
door and having it break on me. (I carefully tacked that one back together,
spackled the bejesus out of it and moved on and came back later and painted
it -- looks great! ;-))

Since the warping does not extend behind the porch, scabbing in a siding
board before it gets to the porch sounds like the best approach. That of
course depends on me locating matching siding (I have been unable to locally
so far but have some leads to some large lumber suppliers from who
experience shows that they will be pretty disdainful of someone who wants to
buy two boards and not several thousand linear feet.) or me faking it pretty
good since both bad boards are right on the front of the house near the
front door.

I have watched (or passed by) people scabbing boards but my own experience
in doing so is limited to about 10 inches of downboard on the chimney
chase. That one I just did with oak for durability instead of the rough
cedar and though the depth was different -- the rough construction cedar
must have been 11/2 x 4 and my oak was 1 x 4 -- it matches and looks good on
the face except for it is not rough and the back is well spackled to fill
the void. (The original was water rotted).

Any ideas or thoughts? Maybe a 1, 2, 3 recipe?


FACE

"FACE" wrote in message
...
Yes, i posted this before (and got no replies). I am looking for a how-to
on this.


Need advice on replacing cedar lap siding boards --

I have two lap siding boards on first level that have warped due to
water --
one from water bouncing off of shrubbery, one from water bouncing off of
the
trash can. The thin edges of the beveled boards have warped out form
under
the next higher board. (Possibly they were not set right originally.)

The one from the shrubbery water bounce is the main problem.
I gave a hard look at that lap board yesterday and it goes behind the
structural parts of the front porch. Taking all of that down (or
partially
out from the house) to replace that board appears to be the worst option
available.

One option I had considered was wetting, attempting to "unwarp" the board
by laying it flat on the driveway and leaving weight on that thin edge for
a
while, and resetting it. I already know the boards that have been in the
baking sun since 1984 are brittle from trying to reset one on the house
next
door and having it break on me. (I carefully tacked that one back
together,
spackled the bejesus out of it and moved on and came back later and
painted
it -- looks great! ;-))

Since the warping does not extend behind the porch, scabbing in a siding
board before it gets to the porch sounds like the best approach. That of
course depends on me locating matching siding (I have been unable to
locally
so far but have some leads to some large lumber suppliers from who
experience shows that they will be pretty disdainful of someone who wants
to
buy two boards and not several thousand linear feet.) or me faking it
pretty
good since both bad boards are right on the front of the house near the
front door.

I have watched (or passed by) people scabbing boards but my own experience
in doing so is limited to about 10 inches of downboard on the chimney
chase. That one I just did with oak for durability instead of the rough
cedar and though the depth was different -- the rough construction cedar
must have been 11/2 x 4 and my oak was 1 x 4 -- it matches and looks good
on
the face except for it is not rough and the back is well spackled to fill
the void. (The original was water rotted).

Any ideas or thoughts? Maybe a 1, 2, 3 recipe?


FACE

Sorry. I saw your post and thought you had replies so did not respond.
Maybe they weren't helpful replies.

Lap boards are best replaced for the full width but sometimes as in your
case that may not be possible. Best to replace with cedar as close a match
as possible. Doubt you will be able to straighten them Here is a step by
step. It has been a long day and I may not be clear enough. Post back with
questions.

1. Loosen or remove the nails in the board above the one you need to
replace.
2. remove the nails from the board(s) you need to replace.
3. Locate the center of the stud closest to the porch.
4. Use a tri square to mark a vertical line on the siding along the center
of the stud.
5. Set the depth gauge on a circular saw to about .562" (the thickness of
the siding + 1/8")
6. cut a straight line from the bottom of the board and about 1" above the
upper overlap.
7 remove the damaged board
8 cut and fit a new board
9 Use flashing behind the seam and at least 1"above the vertical cut. The
flashing goes behind the siding. You can use tin or rubber
10 Nail new board into place sand the seam to level the two edges, fill with
bondo and sand smooth, then finish as you please.

You should be able to find cedar lap siding at any real lumber yard. Not
likely you will find it at Slows or Home Cheapo.


--
Colbyt
One picture can be worth a 1000 words.
Post yours at www.alt-home-repair.com for FREE.
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On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 21:37:34 GMT, in alt.home.repair "Colbyt"
wrote:


"FACE" wrote in message
.. .
Yes, i posted this before (and got no replies). I am looking for a how-to
on this.


Need advice on replacing cedar lap siding boards --

I have two lap siding boards on first level that have warped due to
water --
one from water bouncing off of shrubbery, one from water bouncing off of
the
trash can. The thin edges of the beveled boards have warped out form
under
the next higher board. (Possibly they were not set right originally.)

The one from the shrubbery water bounce is the main problem.
I gave a hard look at that lap board yesterday and it goes behind the
structural parts of the front porch. Taking all of that down (or
partially
out from the house) to replace that board appears to be the worst option
available.

One option I had considered was wetting, attempting to "unwarp" the board
by laying it flat on the driveway and leaving weight on that thin edge for
a
while, and resetting it. I already know the boards that have been in the
baking sun since 1984 are brittle from trying to reset one on the house
next
door and having it break on me. (I carefully tacked that one back
together,
spackled the bejesus out of it and moved on and came back later and
painted
it -- looks great! ;-))

Since the warping does not extend behind the porch, scabbing in a siding
board before it gets to the porch sounds like the best approach. That of
course depends on me locating matching siding (I have been unable to
locally
so far but have some leads to some large lumber suppliers from who
experience shows that they will be pretty disdainful of someone who wants
to
buy two boards and not several thousand linear feet.) or me faking it
pretty
good since both bad boards are right on the front of the house near the
front door.

I have watched (or passed by) people scabbing boards but my own experience
in doing so is limited to about 10 inches of downboard on the chimney
chase. That one I just did with oak for durability instead of the rough
cedar and though the depth was different -- the rough construction cedar
must have been 11/2 x 4 and my oak was 1 x 4 -- it matches and looks good
on
the face except for it is not rough and the back is well spackled to fill
the void. (The original was water rotted).

Any ideas or thoughts? Maybe a 1, 2, 3 recipe?


FACE

Sorry. I saw your post and thought you had replies so did not respond.
Maybe they weren't helpful replies.

Lap boards are best replaced for the full width but sometimes as in your
case that may not be possible. Best to replace with cedar as close a match
as possible. Doubt you will be able to straighten them Here is a step by
step. It has been a long day and I may not be clear enough. Post back with
questions.

1. Loosen or remove the nails in the board above the one you need to
replace.
2. remove the nails from the board(s) you need to replace.
3. Locate the center of the stud closest to the porch.
4. Use a tri square to mark a vertical line on the siding along the center
of the stud.
5. Set the depth gauge on a circular saw to about .562" (the thickness of
the siding + 1/8")
6. cut a straight line from the bottom of the board and about 1" above the
upper overlap.
7 remove the damaged board
8 cut and fit a new board
9 Use flashing behind the seam and at least 1"above the vertical cut. The
flashing goes behind the siding. You can use tin or rubber
10 Nail new board into place sand the seam to level the two edges, fill with
bondo and sand smooth, then finish as you please.

You should be able to find cedar lap siding at any real lumber yard. Not
likely you will find it at Slows or Home Cheapo.\


Thanks for the instructions. You are right about Home Cheapo and Slows. At
least the close-to-town stores do not have what I am looking for. I have
found a Home depot some 20 miles out that claims to carry cedar lap siding.
Otherwise it will be lumber yards twice that far out. Since I have a short
piece left over from termite repair some years ago i will carry that with me
to get an exact or close as possible match.

If i missed other replies it is my fault -- or my servers -- I will go back
and pull all messages and check.

Thanks,

FACE