Yes, i posted this before (and got no replies). I am looking for a how-to
on this.


Need advice on replacing cedar lap siding boards --

I have two lap siding boards on first level that have warped due to water --
one from water bouncing off of shrubbery, one from water bouncing off of the
trash can. The thin edges of the beveled boards have warped out form under
the next higher board. (Possibly they were not set right originally.)

The one from the shrubbery water bounce is the main problem.
I gave a hard look at that lap board yesterday and it goes behind the
structural parts of the front porch. Taking all of that down (or partially
out from the house) to replace that board appears to be the worst option
available.

One option I had considered was wetting, attempting to "unwarp" the board
by laying it flat on the driveway and leaving weight on that thin edge for a
while, and resetting it. I already know the boards that have been in the
baking sun since 1984 are brittle from trying to reset one on the house next
door and having it break on me. (I carefully tacked that one back together,
spackled the bejesus out of it and moved on and came back later and painted
it -- looks great! ;-))

Since the warping does not extend behind the porch, scabbing in a siding
board before it gets to the porch sounds like the best approach. That of
course depends on me locating matching siding (I have been unable to locally
so far but have some leads to some large lumber suppliers from who
experience shows that they will be pretty disdainful of someone who wants to
buy two boards and not several thousand linear feet.) or me faking it pretty
good since both bad boards are right on the front of the house near the
front door.

I have watched (or passed by) people scabbing boards but my own experience
in doing so is limited to about 10 inches of downboard on the chimney
chase. That one I just did with oak for durability instead of the rough
cedar and though the depth was different -- the rough construction cedar
must have been 11/2 x 4 and my oak was 1 x 4 -- it matches and looks good on
the face except for it is not rough and the back is well spackled to fill
the void. (The original was water rotted).

Any ideas or thoughts? Maybe a 1, 2, 3 recipe?


FACE