wrote in message
...
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 20:31:46 -0400, "J Poy" wrote:

Hi,



I am thinking of installing a water tank to recover solar heat in the attic
to heat the water.

****ING DON'T CROSS-POST YOUR **** ALL OVER THE ****ING KNOWN
UNIVERSE, ASSHOLE !!!!!

I DON'T ****ING CARE HOW EASY AND CONVENIENT IT MAY BE FOR YOU
!!!!

DON'T ****ING DO IT, MORON !!!!!!!!!!!

THE ENTIRE ****ING INTERNET IS NOT REPEAT NOT HERE TO PROVIDE
EASY ANSWERS TO YOUR DUMB**** QUESTIONS !!!!!!!!!


Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'

HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
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This is Turtle.

First Please don't try to Troll over at alt.home.repair with you trolling post
here.

Second your calling this person to stop posting to a group you don't post at
alt.home.repair and has nothing to do with the two newsgroups you stay at all
the time. so Stay at sci.engr.heat-vent-ac or alt.hvac and leave the
alt.home.repair group alone.

Third Please don't cross post yourself to express your feelings to all and this
person which is a Troll attemp of your to get a trolling flame started. Just Go
away with your trolling and flaming.

TURTLE

Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:

In the attic? Why not put a collector on the roof? This will probably be
more efficient, plus it will shade a part of the roof and reduce the
heat gain in the attic.

How about a couple of ordinary domestic heating radiators on the roof,
painted black? You should be able to get hold of a couple of old ones
very cheaply.

wrote in message

PLONK.

Another sender added to the kill file.

Well, for one they might have a problem with the pressure. Come to
think of it, a car radiator- typically kept below 15 psig by protective
cap- would too. Unless either would be used in a closed-loop with a
heat-exchanger in the path of the domestic hot water. Which should be
rated for the pressure differential- sometimes 80 psig. But then,
where to put that exchanger?

With closed-loop, any worry of leached lead from rad would be nil.

Intriguing idea.

HTH,
J

On 2005-07-18 said:
Newsgroups:
alt.energy.automobile,alt.energy.homepower,alt.en gineering.
electrical,alt.home. repair,alt.hvac,sci.energy
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 20:31:46 -0400, "J Poy"
wrote:
I am thinking of installing a water tank to recover solar heat in
the attic to heat the water.
Can anyone suggest a good (Cheap) air to water heat exchanger that
I could use in my attic to recovery the solar heat . One that
won't block up easily with tap water minerals, I was thinking of
using an auto radiator. ($89.00) Has anyone ever tried to do this?
I would be concerned about an auto radiator, because you do not know
how it has been cleaned, or with what.
Tony has a good idea, and it is often used here in Arizona to heat
swimming pools (but the pipe is placed on the roof of the house).
More recently, builders have been plumbing houses with plastic in
the attic, and it is possible be scaulded in the shower in the late
afternoon when the first burst comes out.

A standard solar panel would do well, and one with the glass broken
would be cheaper, since all you want is the heat exchanger.
Kevin

If you can score one of these, try it outside, without the glass. You
may be amazed at how effective it will be. Glass covering is
over-rated - couple years ago a physicist reexamined the math on
which glass-covered solar panel design was based, found it in error.


Tom Willmon
near Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA

Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 - Registered

wrote:

said:

A standard solar panel would do well, and one with the glass broken
would be cheaper, since all you want is the heat exchanger.
Kevin

If you can score one of these, try it outside, without the glass.

That would be very inefficient, unless it has a selective surface.

Nick

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 18 Jul 2005 17:06:57 +0300, "Dimitrios Tzortzakakis"
wrote:

This problem was long ago solved in greece, with heliotherma (=greek, sun +
heating) they are boilers you put on the roof and have glass collectors with
tubes painted black so that practically you have hot water from the sun 330
days a year.They also have a heating element for the (few) days when the
weather is cloudy.

Beware of Greeks bearing free hot water :-)

Paul

This is Turtle.

Beware of Software salesmen Geek advising on free hot water.

TURTLE

Your idea has merit. Mineral buildup can be a problem in any heat
exchanger using hard water, a car radiator would be no worse and is a
very efficient exchanger. I suggest using your system as a feed into
your regular water heater, it will keep it from having to turn on as
often and will back up any shortfall in your heating system. A
prefilter will remove silt, which helps, but not dissolved minerals. A
water softener will help and will have other benefits but is expensive.
When you build it, consider using a bypass with a Y valve, during the
winter when the attic air is cold ( I don't know your climate), and
during that time you can service it, rinse out mineral deposits with a
weak vinegar/water solution. If you are getting a salvage yard
radiator, get the biggest one you can for the money. Use a simple fan
to boost its efficientcy, wire in a thermocouple to activate it or at
least a timer for the hottest part of the day.-Jitney

wrote in message
oups.com...
Your idea has merit. Mineral buildup can be a problem in any heat
exchanger using hard water, a car radiator would be no worse and is a
very efficient exchanger. I suggest using your system as a feed into
your regular water heater, it will keep it from having to turn on as
often and will back up any shortfall in your heating system. A
prefilter will remove silt, which helps, but not dissolved minerals. A
water softener will help and will have other benefits but is expensive.
When you build it, consider using a bypass with a Y valve, during the
winter when the attic air is cold ( I don't know your climate), and
during that time you can service it, rinse out mineral deposits with a
weak vinegar/water solution. If you are getting a salvage yard
radiator, get the biggest one you can for the money. Use a simple fan
to boost its efficientcy, wire in a thermocouple to activate it or at
least a timer for the hottest part of the day.-Jitney

I doubt if auto radiators are designed using consideration of maintaining
the water to be suitable for human consumption. They may use lead solder, or
other materials may be used for corrosion resistance that could be dangerous
if consumed.

Bob

Good point. But newer and refurbushed radiators use lead-free solders.
After that, it is copper, brass, and/or aluminum.-Jitney

Actually, PJM, the Internet IS here to answer my questions. Now BITE ME!

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 20:31:46 -0400, "J Poy" wrote:

Hi,



I am thinking of installing a water tank to recover solar heat in the
attic
to heat the water.

****ING DON'T CROSS-POST YOUR **** ALL OVER THE ****ING KNOWN
UNIVERSE, ASSHOLE !!!!!

I DON'T ****ING CARE HOW EASY AND CONVENIENT IT MAY BE FOR YOU
!!!!

DON'T ****ING DO IT, MORON !!!!!!!!!!!

THE ENTIRE ****ING INTERNET IS NOT REPEAT NOT HERE TO PROVIDE
EASY ANSWERS TO YOUR DUMB**** QUESTIONS !!!!!!!!!


Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'

HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
Free Temperature / Pressure charts for 38 Ref's
http://pmilligan.net/pmtherm/

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 20:31:46 -0400, "J Poy" wrote:

Hi,



I am thinking of installing a water tank to recover solar heat in the
attic
to heat the water.

****ING DON'T CROSS-POST YOUR **** ALL OVER THE ****ING KNOWN
UNIVERSE, ASSHOLE !!!!!

I DON'T ****ING CARE HOW EASY AND CONVENIENT IT MAY BE FOR YOU
!!!!

DON'T ****ING DO IT, MORON !!!!!!!!!!!

THE ENTIRE ****ING INTERNET IS NOT REPEAT NOT HERE TO PROVIDE
EASY ANSWERS TO YOUR DUMB**** QUESTIONS !!!!!!!!!


Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!

http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'

HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
Free Temperature / Pressure charts for 38 Ref's
http://pmilligan.net/pmtherm/

Automotive radiator? Not recommended. I once tested a radiator for leaks by
connecting it to the water main, found lots of leaks, certainly more than
there were in the first place, and the heater core went as well.

MG

There a lot of refinements in these posts that will bust your budget
and give you only marginal increases in efficientcy. I suggest keeping
it simple.-Jitney

Hi,
I am thinking of installing a water tank to recover solar heat in the
attic to heat the water.

Automotive radiator? Not recommended. I once tested a radiator for leaks
by connecting it to the water main, found lots of leaks, certainly more
than there were in the first place, and the heater core went as well.

Radiator caps typically vent excess pressure between 13 to 18 psi.
Auto radiators are not designed to withstand more than 30 psi,
but some domestic water systems may reach 80 psi.

Also, auto radiators have lead solder and may have other nasty gunk.
So, don't use auto radiator for drinking water.

CM

CM wrote:

Also, auto radiators have lead solder and may have other nasty gunk.
So, don't use auto radiator for drinking water.


Have you looked at a new radiator in the last few years? They are
aluminum or molded plastic with the end caps crimped on, not soldered.

--
Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted
after threats were telephoned to my church.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

If some-one in rec.aviation.homebuilt is thinking outside the box,
then he'd better have a good parachute.

As to catholic interests - all religion is a sign of a lunatic mind.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Crossposting to irrelevant groups is another matter.

I cross-post to groups whose readership I think knows how to think
about any given question. For example, my question may be about house
repair, but I might also post to rec.aviation.homebuilt and
rec.crafts.metalworking. why? because those are guys who build
things, who know materials well, who think outside of boxes. And they
usually have catholic interests... love to tackle interesting
questions.

cross-posting is cross-fertilization. we don't need inbreeding.

wkearney99 wrote:
wrote in message

PLONK.

Another sender added to the kill file.

Hopefully you've add mine too, you gutless pussy.

Polymath wrote:
If some-one in rec.aviation.homebuilt is thinking outside the box,
then he'd better have a good parachute.


Only if he's also cross-posting to rec.skydiving