I have a 79" rough opening and a stock 81.5" metal entry door to
install in it. It's a standard 30" Masonite six panel door I picked up
at HD. I can't make the RO higher because I'd be cutting into a header
supporting perpendicular floor joists above it.

I have the jambs and door all marked and ready for cutting. I figure
my 7.5" circular saw will do the job on the door bottom if I set up a
fence with some c-clamps and a straightedge, but not sure what type of
blade to use for this application. Any ideas?

Thanks

wrote:
I have a 79" rough opening and a stock 81.5" metal entry door to
install in it. It's a standard 30" Masonite six panel door I picked up
at HD. I can't make the RO higher because I'd be cutting into a header
supporting perpendicular floor joists above it.

I have the jambs and door all marked and ready for cutting. I figure
my 7.5" circular saw will do the job on the door bottom if I set up a
fence with some c-clamps and a straightedge, but not sure what type of
blade to use for this application. Any ideas?

Thanks


I used a metal-cutting (ferrous) abrasive blade.
Don't try to make a full-depth cut; a couple of light passes
will be better.

Jim

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a 79" rough opening and a stock 81.5" metal entry door to
install in it. It's a standard 30" Masonite six panel door I picked up
at HD. I can't make the RO higher because I'd be cutting into a header
supporting perpendicular floor joists above it.

I have the jambs and door all marked and ready for cutting. I figure
my 7.5" circular saw will do the job on the door bottom if I set up a
fence with some c-clamps and a straightedge, but not sure what type of
blade to use for this application. Any ideas?

Thanks


Better check to see how the door is made. Taking that much off could
considerably weaken the door. Most door manufactures only put structure
around the edges.

You might have to take 1/2 off each edge.

I believe that you can special order a door the right size or maybe one
one inch shorter from Home Depot as a standard size (not stocked).
You'll have to wait, but it's better than cutting a metal door.

Adjust the blade lower on each pass?

Thanks

It's only metal on the outside, probably filled with foam or something
on the inside. I have to take my chances. There might be an
opportunity to insert the bottom structure in the resized door
depending on what's inside, if I can hollow it out.

Since I have to also resize the jamb I'm only inclined to cut one end,
and I'd rather only compromise one end with my limited know-how.

Thanks

wrote:
I have a 79" rough opening and a stock 81.5" metal entry door to
install in it. It's a standard 30" Masonite six panel door I picked up
at HD. I can't make the RO higher because I'd be cutting into a header
supporting perpendicular floor joists above it.

I have the jambs and door all marked and ready for cutting. I figure
my 7.5" circular saw will do the job on the door bottom if I set up a
fence with some c-clamps and a straightedge, but not sure what type of
blade to use for this application. Any ideas?

Thanks


Metal doors are often just metal clad with the
interior consisting of a man made pressed fiber
material. Cutting off more than 1/8" will remove
the metal on that edge and make a mess. And you
will have only a partially clad metal door.

Think about buy a door that fits the "finished"
opening or you may end up paying for two doors.

A hacksaw would take too long.

Using oil on the hinges stops squeaks.

A wood door can't be cut with a hacksaw.

G Henslee wrote:
A wood door can't be cut with a hacksaw.

Why not? It'd take forever, but it could be done.

R

RicodJour wrote:
G Henslee wrote:

A wood door can't be cut with a hacksaw.


Why not? It'd take forever, but it could be done.

R


Friction factor Rico. It may start on fire.

In article ,
G Henslee wrote:
A wood door can't be cut with a hacksaw.

It wouldn't be the tool of choice, but why couldn't it be done?


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

"Lawrence Wasserman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
G Henslee wrote:
A wood door can't be cut with a hacksaw.

It wouldn't be the tool of choice, but why couldn't it be done?



I have never seen a hacksaw (hand) that would allow more than a 5-6 inch
long cut.

The bow will get in the way

A wood door can't be cut with a hacksaw.

It wouldn't be the tool of choice, but why couldn't it be done?



I have never seen a hacksaw (hand) that would allow more than a 5-6 inch
long cut.

The bow will get in the way


YOu turn the blade so the bow is on the side. He can't cut more than about
4 inches or so off at a time by doing it that way.
Still not something I would want to do. Time to rent or buy some power saw
to cut the door.

In article , SQLit wrote:

"Lawrence Wasserman" wrote in message
...
In article ,
G Henslee wrote:
A wood door can't be cut with a hacksaw.

It wouldn't be the tool of choice, but why couldn't it be done?



I have never seen a hacksaw (hand) that would allow more than a 5-6 inch
long cut.

The bow will get in the way



Turn the blade 90 degrees so the hacksaw must be moved "sideways"
rather than down, and a cut of any length can be made, but only as
"deep" as the frame of the saw allows.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Actually I just bought a $2 ferrous metal blade at the local big box
and cut away with no problems. I started with just a surface cut and
lowered the blade a little on each pass. Once you're through the top
you can lower the more than an inch or so to go through the foam until
you hit the bottom cladding.

The metal cladding at most is only 1/16" thick on both sides. Inside
the door is nothing more than what I guess I will call "structural"
foam.

I can hollow out some of that foam on the "new" door bottom and put the
real plastic structural piece back in with some phenoseal or somesuch
adhesive that doesn't disintegrate the contacting foam.

Then all that is left is trimming the wooden jambs, reassembly of the
threshold pieces and viola... installation.

How do you like me know... me and my bad self?