Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte.

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1   Report Post  
Bob Giel
 
Posts: n/a
Default Wood Door Skin questions

All my search efforts on door skins have come up with replacing metal panels
on car doors.
Although I have books on making new doors from scratch (ouch!) I can't seem
to find anything on major repairs for old ones.
There is almost nothing on wood door skins for doors in the home.
So, I'm hoping you folks can help me out, big time.

I have an exterior entry door with severe water-induced delamination damage
(read that as a four year legal battle with the roofers and the tile
company!)
The current external door skin is shredded at the bottom although it is
solid as a rock above the damaged area. Obviously, the external door skin
must be replaced but I plan to change the 45 year old door somewhat, which
will require replacement of both skins after filling in current holes used
for mailbox slot, peep hole, and door latch mechanisms.

The door is much too thick to allow simply placing new skins over the old,
and probably would not last if done that way.

Can the old door skins be removed? What is the best method for removing the
old door skins so that I can apply new skins?.

Remembering this is an external door, is contact cement the best choice for
application of the new skins, or is there something better or easier like
liquid nail or ??????

Are there any "secrets", tips, or warnings to applying door skins before I
get started on this overdue and dreaded project?


TIA

Bob


  #2   Report Post  
Gregory Paolini
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Bob,

I'm assuming that the door you're dealing with is a flat panel door, as
opposed to a raised panel door.. You Could cut off the upper layer of
damage, fill in the damage or rotted areas with regular auto body filler,
then using water proof glue such as west system epoxy, apply veneer over the
damaged area. It will require a fair amount of skill to repair propperly,
as well as visually pleasing. Also, use a finish such as an epoxy or a
spar-urethane to protect the door when finished.

It wont be easy, but it can be done

Hope this helps

--
Gregory Paolini - Roycroft Renaissance Artisan
Handcrafted Custom Furniture & Cabinetry

www.GregoryPaolini.com
"Bob Giel" wrote in message
ink.net...
All my search efforts on door skins have come up with replacing metal
panels
on car doors.
Although I have books on making new doors from scratch (ouch!) I can't
seem
to find anything on major repairs for old ones.
There is almost nothing on wood door skins for doors in the home.
So, I'm hoping you folks can help me out, big time.

I have an exterior entry door with severe water-induced delamination
damage
(read that as a four year legal battle with the roofers and the tile
company!)
The current external door skin is shredded at the bottom although it is
solid as a rock above the damaged area. Obviously, the external door skin
must be replaced but I plan to change the 45 year old door somewhat, which
will require replacement of both skins after filling in current holes used
for mailbox slot, peep hole, and door latch mechanisms.

The door is much too thick to allow simply placing new skins over the old,
and probably would not last if done that way.

Can the old door skins be removed? What is the best method for removing
the
old door skins so that I can apply new skins?.

Remembering this is an external door, is contact cement the best choice
for
application of the new skins, or is there something better or easier like
liquid nail or ??????

Are there any "secrets", tips, or warnings to applying door skins before I
get started on this overdue and dreaded project?


TIA

Bob




  #3   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Bob:

I am wondering if you are going in the wrong direction on this.

If you are going to fill in the mail slot, fill in the peep hole, and
even the lockset holes, only to have to cut down the door to the
correct thickness so you can skin both sides....

why don't you just buy a new door blank? The repairs to the door will
take a a few hours, then to thickness the door can be quite a chore.

When I have to skive down the door to get the desired thickness it
takes a long messy time to do it on just one side. I have never done
it to both sides just to save the core of a door.

Thinking of all the hours involved if the project went perfectly, I
know I could never sell it as a repair. I could sell it as a repair,
though.

Buy a blank, moritse, drill it and prepare for locks before you take
the old POS out. You can even finish it before final installation.
This is much easier than what you are describing, not as hard as it
sounds, and the technical degree of skills needed drops quite a bit.

You can use the old door as a template to help you locate hinge
location and to match any cuts made on the door to adjust it for
closure over the years.

Robert

  #4   Report Post  
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Robert:

Duuuuh.

Thinking of all the hours involved if the project went perfectly, I

know I could never sell it as a repair. I could sell it as a repair,
though.

Make your mind up. I meant to say I could never sell the complete
repair, filling, and skinning of both sides as a repair. I could
however, sell the door solution as a replacement.

Robert

  #5   Report Post  
HMFIC-1369
 
Posts: n/a
Default

First off, why should you be concerned. After 4 years, let your homeowners
insurance handle the damage and let them sue the roofer. You should easily
get replacement value for the door and have someone make it for you.
Secondly, for an external door why even screw with wood, for every reason
from safety to R-factor use a steel door! There is a point when repair vs.
replacement becomes a breaking point, and you said it yourself "dreadful
project". Unless this door has some historical value, to make one from
scratch is easily more secure and better engineered over trying to fudge
re-laminarting the 45 year old door.



"Bob Giel" wrote in message
ink.net...
All my search efforts on door skins have come up with replacing metal

panels
on car doors.
Although I have books on making new doors from scratch (ouch!) I can't

seem
to find anything on major repairs for old ones.
There is almost nothing on wood door skins for doors in the home.
So, I'm hoping you folks can help me out, big time.

I have an exterior entry door with severe water-induced delamination

damage
(read that as a four year legal battle with the roofers and the tile
company!)
The current external door skin is shredded at the bottom although it is
solid as a rock above the damaged area. Obviously, the external door skin
must be replaced but I plan to change the 45 year old door somewhat, which
will require replacement of both skins after filling in current holes used
for mailbox slot, peep hole, and door latch mechanisms.

The door is much too thick to allow simply placing new skins over the old,
and probably would not last if done that way.

Can the old door skins be removed? What is the best method for removing

the
old door skins so that I can apply new skins?.

Remembering this is an external door, is contact cement the best choice

for
application of the new skins, or is there something better or easier like
liquid nail or ??????

Are there any "secrets", tips, or warnings to applying door skins before I
get started on this overdue and dreaded project?


TIA

Bob






  #6   Report Post  
Bob G.
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 15:46:35 GMT, "Bob Giel"
wrote:

All my search efforts on door skins have come up with replacing metal panels
on car doors.
Although I have books on making new doors from scratch (ouch!) I can't seem
to find anything on major repairs for old ones.
There is almost nothing on wood door skins for doors in the home.
So, I'm hoping you folks can help me out, big time.

I have an exterior entry door with severe water-induced delamination damage
(read that as a four year legal battle with the roofers and the tile
company!)

================snip snip snip =========


I also think you are going in the wrong direction....mostly because of
the time involved...and the cost of repairing your exsisting entry
door...vs just buying a new door and hanging it...

I restore cars as a hobby and to be honest rather then reskin a door
(which I have done more then a few times) I find that I can buy a
good, used door at swap meets for not much more then a door skin...

I see no reason that you could not find a "used" entry door for a home
either..

Bob G..



Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
### micro-FAQ on wood # 025 P van Rijckevorsel Woodworking 2 November 27th 04 06:10 PM
### micro-FAQ on wood # 024 P van Rijckevorsel Woodworking 0 November 13th 04 08:02 PM
### Micro-FAQ on Wood # 003 P van Rijckevorsel Woodworking 4 February 24th 04 10:30 AM
### Micro-FAQ on wood # 002 P van Rijckevorsel Woodworking 1 February 1st 04 02:06 PM
### Micro-FAQ on wood # 002 P van Rijckevorsel Woodworking 9 January 19th 04 03:31 AM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:52 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"