I wouldn't know the NEC if I tripped over it...but I think you can do
that. The garbage disposal is sposed to be on its own circuit, not
sure hwy though. The other biggie is the sump pump, don't want you
hair dryer knocking that out.

"alan" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to determing the best setup for my electrical stuff.
I can't seem to pull the specs on my Amana 23 Cu fridge yet BUT I was
considering hooking up my range hood on the same circuit. My Range
hood blower pulls 5 Amps - it's a 1200 CFM unit.

Is this against NEC Code or should I just find an alternate like the
lighting circuit.


Fixed electrical appliances require separate circuits. Dishwasher, disposal
( that one will open the door) stove, microwave.

Will it work, yes. The refer will not pull more than 10 amps.

5 amps for a exhausts hood. Sure hope it is not to loud.

In article . com, wrote:
I wouldn't know the NEC if I tripped over it...but I think you can do
that.

You're right... but why would you be trying to answer Code questions if you
don't know the Code?

The garbage disposal is sposed to be on its own circuit, not
sure hwy though.

Not correct.

The other biggie is the sump pump, don't want you
hair dryer knocking that out.

Common sense, but not a requirement of the Code.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

In article , "SQLit" wrote:

"alan" wrote in message
.. .
I'm trying to determing the best setup for my electrical stuff.
I can't seem to pull the specs on my Amana 23 Cu fridge yet BUT I was
considering hooking up my range hood on the same circuit. My Range
hood blower pulls 5 Amps - it's a 1200 CFM unit.

Is this against NEC Code or should I just find an alternate like the
lighting circuit.


Fixed electrical appliances require separate circuits. Dishwasher, disposal
( that one will open the door) stove, microwave.

You got a Code cite for that?

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

I'm offering an opinion on a code question because nobody else had
answered. By saying I don't know the code up front, I'm warning that
the info I am conveying is based on what I've heard, not explicit
knowledge and electrician would have. There are locales where a sump
has to be on a breaker of its own. As for the garbage disposal, per
the NEC, it requires a circuit of its own if the manufacturer labeled
it as such, if we want to be overly technical about things:

http://www.iaei.org/foc/cmp2.htm#q6

If the government, which has incorporated the NEC as law, would make it
available on the web, we would all be better off. As it is, the public
cannot see the laws it must follow without buying a book. Imagine if
all laws were that way.

I'm trying to determing the best setup for my electrical stuff.
I can't seem to pull the specs on my Amana 23 Cu fridge yet BUT I was
considering hooking up my range hood on the same circuit. My Range
hood blower pulls 5 Amps - it's a 1200 CFM unit.

The last code book I ever saw was 1999 NEC, so things may
have changed, but at that time, a refridgerator was supposed
to be on a separate circut, and that circut was allowed to
have 1 other little thing on it, like a clock. (I forget
the exact wording, but the essence was, nothing else big
on the refridgerator circut). I think a 5-amp range hood
probably counts as "big".

From a practical standpoint, it's not likely to create a problem,
and if it does, it will be when you turn on the fan and blow
the breaker, so you'll likely notice.


--Goedjn

alan ) said...

I'm trying to determing the best setup for my electrical stuff.
I can't seem to pull the specs on my Amana 23 Cu fridge yet BUT I was
considering hooking up my range hood on the same circuit.

My knowledge is based on the CEC, but I suspect there is a similar
restriction in the NEC...

Prior to the 1994 revision, the CEC allowed only a range hood and/or
a clock outlet to be on the same circuit as an outlet intended for
a refrigerator.

Since the revision in 1994, ONLY a clock outlet is allowed to be on
the same circuit as a refrigerator outlet. So, the answer is, "no".


At one point going into the past, the refrigerator outlet could be
on a circuit with other stuff. I don't know just when it was reduced
to the range hood/clock before being further reduced to the clock only,
but my parents' home was built in 1963 and the refrigerator not only
shared the circuit with the range hood, but with the lighting of the
hallway. At least when we renovated the kichen in the early 90's, we
gave the fridge its own circuit.

--
Calvin Henry-Cotnam
"Never ascribe to malice what can equally be explained by incompetence."
- Napoleon
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
NOTE: if replying by email, remove "remove." and ".invalid"

Uhh...actually yes, the garbage disposal is supposed to be on it's own circuit with some exceptions that allow it to share the circuit with a dishwasher...or something. I don't remember the exact details but I know I extensively searched code for this because I was installing a Dishwasher AND garbage disposal where there had not previously been a dishwasher and garbage disposal...twice. Both the dishwasher and disposal are supposed to be on their own circuit but there are some exceptions, at least one of them allowing both to share a circuit.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...it-659431-.htm

On Sat, 2 Jan 2021 18:45:03 +0000, John
wrote:

Uhh...actually yes, the garbage disposal is supposed to be on it's own circuit with some exceptions that allow it to share the circuit with a dishwasher...or something. I don't remember the exact details but I know I extensively searched code for this because I was installing a Dishwasher AND garbage disposal where there had not previously been a dishwasher and garbage disposal...twice. Both the dishwasher and disposal are supposed to be on their own circuit but there are some exceptions, at least one of them allowing both to share a circuit.

If the fridge is on a 20a circuit it is legal to put other things on
it. A dedicated 15 is OK for the fridge or other similar equipment but
generally all kitchen receptacles have to be 20a. At that point what
you plug in will be determined by the name plate rating. It is not
uncommon to see the disposal and dish washer on the same circuit but
you should split them up. YMMV by how much the FLA of the disposal is
and the name plate rating of the dishwasher.
If I was running a new circuit I would run a multiwire and hardwire
the dish washer into a 1900 box under the sink splitting them on
separate legs.

On 1/2/2021 3:54 PM, wrote:


If the fridge is on a 20a circuit it is legal to put other things on
it. A dedicated 15 is OK for the fridge or other similar equipment but
generally all kitchen receptacles have to be 20a. At that point what
you plug in will be determined by the name plate rating.

In addition, use some common sense. If the range hood goes off you know
while cooking you have a problem and will reset the breaker. Don't plug
in something that can trip the breaker and not be noticed right away,
especially critical for a freezer in the basement.

On Sat, 2 Jan 2021 16:04:11 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/2/2021 3:54 PM, wrote:


If the fridge is on a 20a circuit it is legal to put other things on
it. A dedicated 15 is OK for the fridge or other similar equipment but
generally all kitchen receptacles have to be 20a. At that point what
you plug in will be determined by the name plate rating.

In addition, use some common sense. If the range hood goes off you know
while cooking you have a problem and will reset the breaker. Don't plug
in something that can trip the breaker and not be noticed right away,
especially critical for a freezer in the basement.

I really think 210.52 is a little off the hook when it comes to the
refrigerator. These things use less power than most things in the
kitchen these days. There used to be an exception to the dedicated 15a
circuit rule. You could plug in a clock. That is gone now. Mine has my
battery operated emergency lights plugged into that circuit. If it
trips, the lights will come on.

On 1/2/2021 6:08 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2021 16:04:11 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/2/2021 3:54 PM, wrote:


If the fridge is on a 20a circuit it is legal to put other things on
it. A dedicated 15 is OK for the fridge or other similar equipment but
generally all kitchen receptacles have to be 20a. At that point what
you plug in will be determined by the name plate rating.

In addition, use some common sense. If the range hood goes off you know
while cooking you have a problem and will reset the breaker. Don't plug
in something that can trip the breaker and not be noticed right away,
especially critical for a freezer in the basement.

I really think 210.52 is a little off the hook when it comes to the
refrigerator. These things use less power than most things in the
kitchen these days. There used to be an exception to the dedicated 15a
circuit rule. You could plug in a clock. That is gone now. Mine has my
battery operated emergency lights plugged into that circuit. If it
trips, the lights will come on.

Good point, power use on the fridge has dropped much over the years.

Good to know how things are broke down too. In my last house, I had a
14000 BTU AC in the dining room window. In the summer, if the AC was on
I could only make two slices of toast in the kitchen as four slices took
too much power.

Not on the fridge circuit, but I do have one of those night
light/emergency lights in one of the counter outlets. For anyone that
does not know what we are talking about, this is one of many versions
available for 20 bucks or so
https://tinyurl.com/y9hqqzy3

In article , says...

I really think 210.52 is a little off the hook when it comes to the
refrigerator. These things use less power than most things in the
kitchen these days. There used to be an exception to the dedicated 15a
circuit rule. You could plug in a clock. That is gone now. Mine has my
battery operated emergency lights plugged into that circuit. If it
trips, the lights will come on.

Good point, power use on the fridge has dropped much over the years.

Good to know how things are broke down too. In my last house, I had a
14000 BTU AC in the dining room window. In the summer, if the AC was on
I could only make two slices of toast in the kitchen as four slices took
too much power.




Lots of things use less power now. I remember growing up and when the
refrigerator would cycle on the TV picture would go bonkers for a few
seconds.

Now most homes have more eiectrical capacity in the main feed, devices
draw less current and TV sets use a total different system.

About all that has not reduced the electrical usage is the devices that
are made to generate heat like the toster, stove and electric dryer.
Not much way to generate heat directly from electricity with anything
known now. Not counting things like heat pumps that do not actually
generate the heat,just move it from outside to inside so to speak.

On Sat, 2 Jan 2021 19:14:44 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/2/2021 6:08 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 2 Jan 2021 16:04:11 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 1/2/2021 3:54 PM, wrote:


If the fridge is on a 20a circuit it is legal to put other things on
it. A dedicated 15 is OK for the fridge or other similar equipment but
generally all kitchen receptacles have to be 20a. At that point what
you plug in will be determined by the name plate rating.

In addition, use some common sense. If the range hood goes off you know
while cooking you have a problem and will reset the breaker. Don't plug
in something that can trip the breaker and not be noticed right away,
especially critical for a freezer in the basement.

I really think 210.52 is a little off the hook when it comes to the
refrigerator. These things use less power than most things in the
kitchen these days. There used to be an exception to the dedicated 15a
circuit rule. You could plug in a clock. That is gone now. Mine has my
battery operated emergency lights plugged into that circuit. If it
trips, the lights will come on.

Good point, power use on the fridge has dropped much over the years.

Good to know how things are broke down too. In my last house, I had a
14000 BTU AC in the dining room window. In the summer, if the AC was on
I could only make two slices of toast in the kitchen as four slices took
too much power.

Not on the fridge circuit, but I do have one of those night
light/emergency lights in one of the counter outlets. For anyone that
does not know what we are talking about, this is one of many versions
available for 20 bucks or so
https://tinyurl.com/y9hqqzy3

Mine is a regular commercial battery light like you see in office
buildings ... exactly like the ones in the IBM building before we
pulled out ;-)