Hey guys,

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with high
torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without getting
into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using either an old
cordless drill, or corded drill.

I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch that
lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque? Corded
drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v motors can
deliver more torque?

It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill. But, a
cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the high-torque
setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM may be better for
the life of the motor.

Input?

Thanks,

Tim

DiezMon wrote:
Hey guys,

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with high
torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without getting
into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using either an old
cordless drill, or corded drill.

I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch that
lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque? Corded
drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v motors can
deliver more torque?

It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill. But, a
cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the high-torque
setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM may be better for
the life of the motor.

Not sure about the weight of the TV and stand you're lifting but how
about an electric wheelchair motor and a drive belt instead of a block
and tackle setup? Tons of torque and some real low speeds.

R

DiezMon wrote:
Hey guys,

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with
high torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without
getting into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using
either an old cordless drill, or corded drill.

I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch
that lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque?
Corded drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v
motors can deliver more torque?

It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill.
But, a cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the
high-torque setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM
may be better for the life of the motor.

Input?

Thanks,

Tim

Garage door opener? :-)

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

a garage door opener motor should lift a tv

"DiezMon" wrote in message
...
Hey guys,

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with high
torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without getting
into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using either an
old
cordless drill, or corded drill.

I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch that
lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque? Corded
drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v motors can
deliver more torque?

It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill. But, a
cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the high-torque
setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM may be better for
the life of the motor.

Input?

Thanks,

Tim

I'm sure a garage door is plenty strong, but I'm looking for something
small.

I forgot to mention that this lift will be mounted inside a cabinet.




"DiezMon" wrote in message
...
Hey guys,

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with high
torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without getting
into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using either an
old
cordless drill, or corded drill.

I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch that
lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque? Corded
drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v motors can
deliver more torque?

It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill. But, a
cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the high-torque
setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM may be better for
the life of the motor.

Input?

Thanks,

Tim

Joseph Meehan wrote:

DiezMon wrote:

Hey guys,

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with
high torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without
getting into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using
either an old cordless drill, or corded drill.

I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch
that lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque?
Corded drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v
motors can deliver more torque?

It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill.
But, a cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the
high-torque setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM
may be better for the life of the motor.

Input?

Thanks,

Tim


Garage door opener? :-)

Hi,
Generally if the motor is same size, DC motor is more powerful than AC
motor. Also it's easier to control speed. Look at Diesel loco. which is
driven by DC motor. Small high tourque motor with low RPM.... You can
find one at RV shop. They use it for moving front stabilizer jacks
up/down. They are pretty strong.
They are 12V motors.
Tony

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with
high torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without
getting into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using
either an old cordless drill, or corded drill.

I should think you'd have better luck using a threaded rod and
a big-ass nut. If you want to use cable, don't use a block
and tackle, use a windlass.

"DiezMon" wrote in
:




I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch
that lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque?
Corded drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v
motors can deliver more torque?

The GEARING multiplies torque.The motor turns the same RPMs for both
ranges,just the gearing changes,slower range multiples the torque more.

Corded motors have much more electric power available,thus they can use
more powerful motors.


It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill.
But, a cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the
high-torque setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM
may be better for the life of the motor.

Input?

Thanks,

Tim



Why don't you try a scissors type lift mechanism(like a scissors jack for a
compact car),you have less complexity,drive the screw with your motor.


--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"DiezMon" wrote in message
news
I'm sure a garage door is plenty strong, but I'm looking for something
small.

I forgot to mention that this lift will be mounted inside a cabinet.

4 threaded rods with a chain sprocket and connected by chains. It will go
up smoothly and easily by driving any one of the rods.





"DiezMon" wrote in message
...
Hey guys,

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with high
torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without getting
into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using either an
old
cordless drill, or corded drill.

I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch
that
lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque? Corded
drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v motors
can
deliver more torque?

It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill. But,
a
cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the
high-torque
setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM may be better
for
the life of the motor.

Input?

Thanks,

Tim

DiezMon wrote:
Hey guys,

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with
high torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without
getting into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using
either an old cordless drill, or corded drill.

I'm just curious.. How come most cordless drills come with a switch
that lets you choose low speed/high torque, or high speed/low torque?
Corded drills don't usually have this. Is it simply because the 110v
motors can deliver more torque?

It would be cheaper and easier for me to use and old corded drill.
But, a cordless type has a more reasonable speed when switched on the
high-torque setting. And I imagine since it's geared, the higher RPM
may be better for the life of the motor.

Think hydraulic. One teeny-weenie hydraulic motor and piston can lift TONS.

I've seen hydraulic positioning motors, taken from old mainframe disk
drives, used to manipulate an elevator in a hay barn. Motor was about 1/3 hp
and it pushed 4000+ pounds up 16 feet.

'Course a piston that long was a search...

Well, I seem to have my terminology wrong then, I essentially am using a
windlass like this:
http://www.yourdictionary.com/images...g/A4differ.jpg Bit I'll have
four pulleys, and one driving shaft, if that makes sense..

I'd thought about 4(or three) threaded rods and nuts, then a chain drive..
Would this take a while to lift though? It'll need to lift roughly 3' and
I don't want to have to wait 5 minutes for each lift Although, that's
just being anal.



"Goedjn" wrote in message
...

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with
high torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without
getting into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using
either an old cordless drill, or corded drill.

I should think you'd have better luck using a threaded rod and
a big-ass nut. If you want to use cable, don't use a block
and tackle, use a windlass.

SINGER (sewing machine people) have an electric sewing machine
lift that sounds like it's right up your alley. I make cabinets
and use them often - haven't had one fail yet, abut five years.
Well, one failed, but they "adjusted" "stuff" and the motor never
reached the limit switches and burned out.

DiezMon wrote:

Well, I seem to have my terminology wrong then, I essentially am using a
windlass like this:
http://www.yourdictionary.com/images...g/A4differ.jpg Bit I'll have
four pulleys, and one driving shaft, if that makes sense..

I'd thought about 4(or three) threaded rods and nuts, then a chain drive..
Would this take a while to lift though? It'll need to lift roughly 3' and
I don't want to have to wait 5 minutes for each lift Although, that's
just being anal.



"Goedjn" wrote in message
...

I'm building a custom TV Lift. I'm thinking of using a motor with
high torque that drives a basic block-tackle pulley system. Without
getting into electical engineering and power: I was thinking of using
either an old cordless drill, or corded drill.

I should think you'd have better luck using a threaded rod and
a big-ass nut. If you want to use cable, don't use a block
and tackle, use a windlass.

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 17:36:07 GMT, "DiezMon"
wrote:

Well, I seem to have my terminology wrong then, I essentially am using a
windlass like this:
http://www.yourdictionary.com/images...g/A4differ.jpg Bit I'll have
four pulleys, and one driving shaft, if that makes sense..

I'd thought about 4(or three) threaded rods and nuts, then a chain drive..
Would this take a while to lift though? It'll need to lift roughly 3' and
I don't want to have to wait 5 minutes for each lift Although, that's
just being anal.


The time it takes to lift the set is going to be directly related
to your mechanical advantage, it doesn't matter how you derive that
mechanical advantage.

The drawing shown with the windlass is a bit odd, since it looks like
both ends of the rope are winding around the axle, which makes the
pulley useless. What I was evisioning was skipping the pulley,
and replacing the hand-crank with an edge-driven wheel, of whatever
size it takes to get you the mechanical advantage you want.

Sort of like this: www.goedjn.com/sketch/windlass.gif

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 14:22:57 -0400, Pop
wrote:

SINGER (sewing machine people) have an electric sewing machine
lift that sounds like it's right up your alley. I make cabinets
and use them often - haven't had one fail yet, abut five years.
Well, one failed, but they "adjusted" "stuff" and the motor never
reached the limit switches and burned out.

DiezMon wrote:

Might you have the part number or a source for the Singer electric
lift?

"Bob_M" wrote in
message
...
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 14:22:57 -0400, Pop

wrote:

SINGER (sewing machine people) have an electric
sewing machine
lift that sounds like it's right up your alley. I
make cabinets
and use them often - haven't had one fail yet, abut
five years.
Well, one failed, but they "adjusted" "stuff" and the
motor never
reached the limit switches and burned out.

DiezMon wrote:

Might you have the part number or a source for the
Singer electric
lift?


I can't find it right now, but ...
1. Try here; I couldn't be sure it's there because I
wouldn't accept the Flash download and the parts charts
wouldn't load.
2. Try calling a local Singer Service Center and ask
them about sourcing it for you.
3. Here are a couple links, mechanical and electric,
from google
"sewing machine lift"
http://parts.singerco.com/html/library_page.html

Sorry, have to run - more later; try google * see if ht
helpsas

Seems like www.wwhardware.com has something also.

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 17:37:31 -0400, Bob_M
wrote:

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 14:22:57 -0400, Pop
wrote:

SINGER (sewing machine people) have an electric sewing machine
lift that sounds like it's right up your alley. I make cabinets
and use them often - haven't had one fail yet, abut five years.
Well, one failed, but they "adjusted" "stuff" and the motor never
reached the limit switches and burned out.

DiezMon wrote:

Might you have the part number or a source for the Singer electric
lift?

Go with a DC motor.

Not sure if a windshield wiper motor could deliver the torque to move
a TV. If so, they're cheap...$15 or so.

Yikes, where to begin??

"nospambob" wrote in message
...

Seems like www.wwhardware.com has something also.

The drawing shown with the windlass is a bit odd, since it looks like
both ends of the rope are winding around the axle, which makes the
pulley useless. What I was evisioning was skipping the pulley,
and replacing the hand-crank with an edge-driven wheel, of whatever
size it takes to get you the mechanical advantage you want.

Sort of like this: www.goedjn.com/sketch/windlass.gif

Yep, that's basically what I had in mind, but I'll probably build it to use
direct drive. Since I won't be using a gear ratio, like in this drawing, I
figured the block-tackle would help with less load on the motor..

Tim

Goedjn wrote:
The drawing shown with the windlass is a bit odd, since it looks like
both ends of the rope are winding around the axle, which makes the
pulley useless.

It's not useless. It's needed because rope is being transferred from
one part of the axle to the other (note that the ends don't go to the
same side of the axle). And since the two parts have different diameters,
the pulley will be moved up or down (as well as laterally).